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Old 09-10-2011, 04:01 PM   #1
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New cradle bushings in 3.5 hours at home

I just finished installing my new energy cradle bushings. I removed the j pipes on my cat back and then removed the whole cradle. I did this in the garage with one floor jack by my self. Using an impact on the exhaust and cradle bolts. All other bolts done by hand. Start to finish was 3.5 hours. Not near as bad as every one made it seem.
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Old 09-10-2011, 08:17 PM   #2
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Good stuff, after reading some horror stories, I'm a bit nervous about the BMR cradle inserts I'm gonna attempt soon. I only have a 3/8" torque wrench that goes up to 75 ft lbs. I read the cradle bolts should be torqued to 130 lbs tho. I'm thinking of torqueing them to 75lbs then tightening them on a bit more. Did you use blue thread lock on anything? Or is that only for sway bar/ endlinks nuts?
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:23 PM   #3
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Honestly....130 is a bit. I did mine to 120 and think it's possibly to much still. Put a little blue locktight and got with the 75 lbs and I'll bet you'll be fine.
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:28 PM   #4
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I did not use any thread lock. I was in no hurry when doing this either. I took my time and did not rush any thing. I figured if I was going to do the work might as well do the full bushings and not just the inserts.
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:00 AM   #5
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I don't believe you HAVE to remove the whole cradle for just inserts, ducq

With full bushings, as OP is referencing, may be a different story. I went with inserts for rear cradle, full bush for the remaining...
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brantley847 View Post
I don't believe you HAVE to remove the whole cradle for just inserts, ducq

With full bushings, as OP is referencing, may be a different story. I went with inserts for rear cradle, full bush for the remaining...

You are correct. Inserts would have been less then half the time for me.
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:45 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by brantley847 View Post
I don't believe you HAVE to remove the whole cradle for just inserts, ducq

With full bushings, as OP is referencing, may be a different story. I went with inserts for rear cradle, full bush for the remaining...
I did full bushings without taking it down. It was definitely tougher to cut out the stock bushings but wasn't terrible; just took a while. If the place had a proper tranny jack lowering it would have been easier for the cutting but would have required removing the exhaust too. The equipment a person has available will determine the "best" method for them.
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:02 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White_2_SS View Post
I just finished installing my new energy cradle bushings. I removed the j pipes on my cat back and then removed the whole cradle. I did this in the garage with one floor jack by my self. Using an impact on the exhaust and cradle bolts. All other bolts done by hand. Start to finish was 3.5 hours. Not near as bad as every one made it seem.
Nice, I'll be doing mine in the garage at home. I have a motorcycle jack which I will probably utilize to support/lower the cradle.

How high did you have the car on Jack stands?

Thanks!
Brad
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:09 AM   #9
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Mine was done with all basic tools that most car people have. That was why I posted this. I have seen where several people said this was a hard task. That is not so. I was going to cut them out at first. I decided I could remove it and get them out quicker. I did not cut them to remove them as most people have done. A floor jack worked perfect with no problems at all. I think it's more about machanical know how.
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:13 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Squintz Palladoris View Post
Nice, I'll be doing mine in the garage at home. I have a motorcycle jack which I will probably utilize to support/lower the cradle.

How high did you have the car on Jack stands?

Thanks!
Brad
My jack stands are 15" all the way down. I left them down and placed them in front of the rear wheels on the frame rails if you want to call them that. I have some cell phone pics I will post later and explain some of what I did.
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:25 AM   #11
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That is plenty of explanation for me I have a set of 15" stands. Was just asking cause I wasnt sure if I would need to pick it up higher.

I'm just waiting on some more parts to show up so I can do it all at once.
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:44 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by White_2_SS View Post
Mine was done with all basic tools that most car people have. That was why I posted this. I have seen where several people said this was a hard task. That is not so. I was going to cut them out at first. I decided I could remove it and get them out quicker. I did not cut them to remove them as most people have done. A floor jack worked perfect with no problems at all. I think it's more about machanical know how.
How did you get them out without cutting?
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Old 09-11-2011, 01:18 PM   #13
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In the videos, the metal washers they pop out with an air gun, are these metal washers reused and placed back on? Or do the inserts take their place
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Old 09-11-2011, 01:54 PM   #14
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How did you get them out without cutting?

when the carage is out. You will see the bushing is put in from the bottom and sticks out above the carage on the top side. You trim the top side of the bushing flush with the carage half way around. Then you will take a chizel and drive it between the bushing and carage. this will break the plastic housing. The chizel I used was about 1/2 diameter. Then take a hammer and 6-7 good hits to the top of the bushing and it will come out.

Yes you will reuse the washers
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Old 09-11-2011, 02:15 PM   #15
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here are the pics







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Old 09-12-2011, 05:27 PM   #16
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I got my cradle inserts and sway bars + endlinks from ups. is it okay to do sways and end links one day then inserts another? Or is it like a, while you have the sways and endlinks off, might as well do inserts kinda thing. I mean, do the sways or end links interfere with the cradle bushing inserts install at all?
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducq View Post
I got my cradle inserts and sway bars + endlinks from ups. is it okay to do sways and end links one day then inserts another? Or is it like a, while you have the sways and endlinks off, might as well do inserts kinda thing. I mean, do the sways or end links interfere with the cradle bushing inserts install at all?
You can do them separately. You do not have to touch one when working on the other.

The only advantage to doing them together is the setup/cleanup times are reduced (jacking, removing wheels, getting tools out, cleanup, etc.)
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:43 PM   #18
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I agree, not a hard job at all. I've done 3-4 cars and no problems
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:40 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducq View Post
I got my cradle inserts and sway bars + endlinks from ups. is it okay to do sways and end links one day then inserts another? Or is it like a, while you have the sways and endlinks off, might as well do inserts kinda thing. I mean, do the sways or end links interfere with the cradle bushing inserts install at all?
I would still do them at the same time if it were me. In my case I didn't remove my exhaust so when I lowered my cradle the big sway bars hit the exhaust. I ended up having to take the sways loose, but not out, so I could move them up out of the way and lower the cradle more.

If you remove your exhaust thats not an issue. If you don't plan to remove your exhaust then I would remove the OEM sway bar, then do the inserts, then put the aftermarket sway bar on last.
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Old 10-01-2011, 06:32 PM   #20
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Doing mine this week: bmr inserts and toe rods since you have to drop subframe to get ot upper toe bolt. Already have sways and trailing arms. I am taking my exhaust off as well just less to work around!
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Old 10-01-2011, 07:22 PM   #21
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The exhaust was never close to being in my way and I did full replacements which required it to go even lower than inserts do. I think you're just making extra work for yourself.
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Old 10-01-2011, 07:59 PM   #22
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You did the full bushings without taking exhaust off? I am thinking of doing diffbushings at same time to. U think that can be done without removing even though instructions say so.
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Old 10-01-2011, 08:46 PM   #23
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Yes full bushings; exhaust never got touched. If you do the diff the exhaust will need to come down.

Last edited by Synner; 08-10-2014 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:53 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White_2_SS View Post
Mine was done with all basic tools that most car people have. That was why I posted this. I have seen where several people said this was a hard task. That is not so. I was going to cut them out at first. I decided I could remove it and get them out quicker. I did not cut them to remove them as most people have done. A floor jack worked perfect with no problems at all. I think it's more about machanical know how.
I've built 2 cars starting with welding up my own frames using only standard tools (no air tools) along with a mig welder and chop saw. I built on them about 4-5 hours per night after work and 6 to 10 hours/day on the weekends. I started only with straight, (mostly) rust-free bodies...I abhor body work. he body work was traded for engine builds. I don't work on (automatic) trannies or differentials. Those procedures are left to folks that know what they are doing. The cost is reasonable when you drop off a transmission or rearend and tell the builder you'll pick it up the next week. Paying upfront and in cash also helps keep charges to a minimum.

HALF of all mechanical knowhow is logic and patience. Don't ask about the dents/holes in my garage - it's my episodes of losing patience and throwing the nearest tool.
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