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Old 09-12-2011, 08:16 PM   #1
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trying to fix the wheel hop! any suggestions?

Any suggestions on rear suspension parts to stop the wheel hop and achieve a better launch? I started to look into the lower control arms but not too sure what brands have performed better. Plus they offer both adjustable and fixed so I donít want to invest in the wrong ones.
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:27 PM   #2
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Trailing arms seem to be the biggest hit/lowest cost towards getting rid of wheel hop. Many brands out there that all improve on the stock part.
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:29 PM   #3
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Sticky tires. If you never lose traction, you cant hop.
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:30 PM   #4
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rear cradle bushings, rear suspension bushings, trailing arms, drag radial tires or slicks, lower control arms, *that's all I can think of now*

There really is no "wrong" answer as to whether adjustable/non-adjustable. Depending on what your needs are, that's the one you get. I would talk to some of the guys from Pfadt, Pedders, BMR, etc about what you are trying to do with the car and then they can help you get the right set up.
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:42 PM   #5
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The "wheel hop trifecta" for these cars is rear trailing arms, toe rods, and bushings (rear cradle and differential). Those three things will generally take care of wheel hop for most 5th gen Camaros.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:10 AM   #6
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The "wheel hop trifecta" for these cars is rear trailing arms, toe rods, and bushings (rear cradle and differential). Those three things will generally take care of wheel hop for most 5th gen Camaros.

What he said

Chase is right, minimizing suspension deflection will minimize wheel hop. The three biggest contributors to this are the Trailing Arms, Toe Rods and Cradle Bushings. Trailing Arms control wheel movement forward and rearward while Toe Rods control toe variation, insuring that the tires are always pointed in the right direction. The Cradle Bushings locate all of the rear suspension and driveline making them a very important factor for handling, acceleration, braking, and traction.

Trailing Arms will usually reduce the majority of your wheel hop and are the easiest (and most economical) to install. If you want to save some money, start there and see how the car responds. If they don't control your wheelhop, then do the other two. The Toe Rods and Cradle bushings should be done at the same time since you must lower the cradle to do both.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:17 AM   #7
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I did the whole BMR rear suspension upgrade and it cut 7/10ths off my 1/4 mile time
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:28 AM   #8
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I did the whole BMR rear suspension upgrade and it cut 7/10ths off my 1/4 mile time
Great feedback, thanks!!
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:52 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stieger View Post
rear cradle bushings, rear suspension bushings, trailing arms, drag radial tires or slicks, lower control arms, *that's all I can think of now*

There really is no "wrong" answer as to whether adjustable/non-adjustable. Depending on what your needs are, that's the one you get. I would talk to some of the guys from Pfadt, Pedders, BMR, etc about what you are trying to do with the car and then they can help you get the right set up.
i have most of these things i can say u need them all...i still need stickys and i need a couple of others mods, the subframe bushings and trailing arms alone helped out a lot however
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:17 PM   #10
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I did the whole BMR rear suspension upgrade and it cut 7/10ths off my 1/4 mile time
Very nice! Most people modifying their cars get too focused on adding horsepower and forget about supporting mods. You can make all the power in the world but if you can't put it to the pavement it doesn't matter.
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:54 PM   #11
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You can make all the power in the world but if you can't put it to the pavement it doesn't matter.
well said.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex Chase View Post
The "wheel hop trifecta" for these cars is rear trailing arms, toe rods, and bushings (rear cradle and differential). Those three things will generally take care of wheel hop for most 5th gen Camaros.
+1 and a big +1 to BMR for some great parts.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR guy View Post
What he said

Chase is right, minimizing suspension deflection will minimize wheel hop. The three biggest contributors to this are the Trailing Arms, Toe Rods and Cradle Bushings. Trailing Arms control wheel movement forward and rearward while Toe Rods control toe variation, insuring that the tires are always pointed in the right direction. The Cradle Bushings locate all of the rear suspension and driveline making them a very important factor for handling, acceleration, braking, and traction.

Trailing Arms will usually reduce the majority of your wheel hop and are the easiest (and most economical) to install. If you want to save some money, start there and see how the car responds. If they don't control your wheelhop, then do the other two. The Toe Rods and Cradle bushings should be done at the same time since you must lower the cradle to do both.
Brett,

What rear toe settings do yall use on the red car at the drag strip? How will different toe settings effect straight line traction?


Thanks!
Brad
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:05 PM   #14
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Thanks for the info. I talked to a couple manufactures today and felt most comfortable with the knowledge of the BMR guys. I ordered rear trailing arms, toe rods, and a bushing kit. Guess I’ll see what happens!
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:20 AM   #15
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Brett,

What rear toe settings do yall use on the red car at the drag strip? How will different toe settings effect straight line traction?


Thanks!
Brad
I will get with Brett and see exactly where he has the toe set. Toe mainly affects the tracking of the car, as long as the toe is set up properly the car will track straight down the drag strip.

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Thanks for the info. I talked to a couple manufactures today and felt most comfortable with the knowledge of the BMR guys. I ordered rear trailing arms, toe rods, and a bushing kit. Guess Iíll see what happens!
Thanks for your order, once you receive the BMR parts and get them installed let us know what you think about them.
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex Chase View Post
Very nice! Most people modifying their cars get too focused on adding horsepower and forget about supporting mods. You can make all the power in the world but if you can't put it to the pavement it doesn't matter.
Amen brother
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:30 AM   #17
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i ordered the fixed toe rods. should i have ordered the adjustable ones? the care has not been lowered.
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:56 AM   #18
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Question

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i ordered the fixed toe rods. should i have ordered the adjustable ones? the care has not been lowered.
Wait!! If you lower ur car that does not mean u have to go adjustable right???
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:05 PM   #19
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i ordered the fixed toe rods. should i have ordered the adjustable ones? the care has not been lowered.
No you will be perfectly fine with the non-adjustable toe rods, the main reason to run the adjustable toe rods is if you are unable to get the adjustment you need out of the factory alignment bolts then the adjustable toe rods will give you additional movement and allow you to get the toe specs you are after.

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Wait!! If you lower ur car that does not mean u have to go adjustable right???
A lower car can run either a non-adjustable or adjustable toe rod it just depends on the situation and whether you are able to get the alignment specs you are looking for. Now if you run our BMR non-adjustable lower control arms (TCA028) then you will need adjustable toe rods to be able to get the alignment within the specs.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:35 AM   #20
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Kyle already said it above, non-adjustable toe rods will be fine, there is plenty of toe adjustment in the factory eccentric bolts. If, however you plan to run our shortened TCA028 Lower Control Arms, you will need adjustable toe rods to compensate.

Quote:
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Brett,

What rear toe settings do yall use on the red car at the drag strip? How will different toe settings effect straight line traction?
Thanks!
Brad
We run 1/16"-1/8" toe-in on the rear. Too much toe, in either direction is not good as it will just create unnecesarry rolling resistance (scrub). Toe-in on the rear tends to cancel out any potential for rear wheel steer while toe-out can make the car want to follow imperfections in the pavement.
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:40 PM   #21
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Thanks Brett!
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:26 PM   #22
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Update. As our test car receives more power and gets faster in the quarter mile we noticed that it has required more steering effort to keep it pointed straight. Generally we run about 1/8" toe-in on the front and rear but just recently dialed in another 1/16" in the rear and the car responded really well to it. Just wanted to let everyone know that in a drag application with power levels 2-3 times stock you can run more
negative toe in the rear to help stabilize the car down the track. We ran 3/16" of toe-in on the rear for a while and it really helped. Now we actually have 1/4" of toe-in and the car tracks so much better.

This really can only be attributed to the amount of links in the rear suspension. There are 4 links per side (upper a-arm, lower control arm, trailing arm, and toe rod) which means lots of potential for deflection.
Even though we have all of our race suspension pieces on the rear, there is still enough flex in the combined components to permit a little alignment drift under excessive loads. 1/32" here and 1/32" there and the rear starts to steer for you. Dialing in a little extra toe-in counteracts this and makes the car more "pucker-proof".
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:32 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex Chase View Post
The "wheel hop trifecta" for these cars is rear trailing arms, toe rods, and bushings (rear cradle and differential). Those three things will generally take care of wheel hop for most 5th gen Camaros.
I really hope so. I already replaced the trailing arms and toe rods yesterday and I have exactly as much wheel hop, but it's just a little harder to break loose. If I replace the subframe bushings and I still have wheel hop I'm going to be one unhappy camper.

EDIT: I got BMR parts. They are extremely well-made/engineered. Nice pieces. Just didn't cure wheel hop by themselves.
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:35 PM   #24
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Update. As our test car receives more power and gets faster in the quarter mile we noticed that it has required more steering effort to keep it pointed straight. Generally we run about 1/8" toe-in on the front and rear but just recently dialed in another 1/16" in the rear and the car responded really well to it. Just wanted to let everyone know that in a drag application with power levels 2-3 times stock you can run more
negative toe in the rear to help stabilize the car down the track. We ran 3/16" of toe-in on the rear for a while and it really helped. Now we actually have 1/4" of toe-in and the car tracks so much better.

This really can only be attributed to the amount of links in the rear suspension. There are 4 links per side (upper a-arm, lower control arm, trailing arm, and toe rod) which means lots of potential for deflection.
Even though we have all of our race suspension pieces on the rear, there is still enough flex in the combined components to permit a little alignment drift under excessive loads. 1/32" here and 1/32" there and the rear starts to steer for you. Dialing in a little extra toe-in counteracts this and makes the car more "pucker-proof".
I have an appointment to get an alignment on Thursday. My car is stock except for your toe rods/trailing arms. I was thinking of going 1/16" to-in on the rear. Does that sound right for stock power + possibly VHT at the track? I was also toying with the idea of putting toe-OUT on the rear because it seems like under load, they would try to move forward, and would rotate on the axle-axis and possibly put them to actually 0-toe. But that was just something I was playing with in my head.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:43 AM   #25
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What about Sub-frame connectors, Drag Race Rear Sway Bar and Drag Shocks & Rear springs...Would any of this help???

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