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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 09-15-2011, 11:21 AM   #1
Rage
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Race Ready Cutouts

Hey guys, quick question.... After a lot of research I am deciding to go with Race ready cutouts.... mainly because of the lifetime warranty and block off plates should they fail. I am going in for LT's, cat delete, cam, and a tune in 2 weeks . I plan on running them where the cats were.... Their low profile kits come in 2 1/2 or 3 inch. What size do you recommend? Thanks
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:30 AM   #2
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I've been running the 2 1/2-inch Race Ready's for two years, and I highly recommend them. I don't think you can go wrong either way.
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:43 AM   #3
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Did you do the down turns also? Or swivel tips? Just curious if they are necessary.
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:52 AM   #4
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i like the remote instead of a switch....post some pics when your finished
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:54 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rage View Post
Did you do the down turns also? Or swivel tips? Just curious if they are necessary.
I used the turndowns. It's good to get the exhaust down into the slip stream beneath the car.
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:59 AM   #6
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I mounted the switch on the console. It works well, and it looks like an OEM switch.

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Old 09-15-2011, 02:26 PM   #7
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Hey guys, they will give me a 7% discount on my purchase, but if someone else gets in on it we both get 15%! Anyone interested?
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:18 PM   #8
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Hey guys, they will give me a 7% discount on my purchase, but if someone else gets in on it we both get 15%! Anyone interested?
Is this direct from race ready? How much are we talking? I might go in.
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:37 PM   #9
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If you guys end up doing this, I have an installation tip:

I ran the wires for the switch up through the drain plug in the floor pan, then under the carpet to the trim on the side of the console. If I had it to do over again, I would route them up through the tunnel, underneath the console. That way the wires are not exposed under the subframe. Use a utility knife to cut a hole for the switch cradle in the trim. Don't worry about how the cut looks. As long as it is smaller than the molding around the cradle, it will look factory after you slide the cradle into place. You can tap into the charging receptacle behind the rear trim on the console for your 12 volts. It makes for a very clean installation.
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Old 09-15-2011, 07:39 PM   #10
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What yourself with race ready. The warranty is a scam. they charge you a processing fee to repairs and shipping both ways. They also do not make a low profile one like QTP which is meant for 5th gens. Go with QTP low profile cutouts you will thankful in the long run.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
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What yourself with race ready. The warranty is a scam. they charge you a processing fee to repairs and shipping both ways. They also do not make a low profile one like QTP which is meant for 5th gens. Go with QTP low profile cutouts you will thankful in the long run.
They sent me a new switch when mine went bad a year and a half later, no questions asked, and it didn't cost me a dime.

Not sure what your beef is?

QTP makes a good product as well. I just didn't want to fumble around for a remote every time I opened or closed the valves. In addition, I wanted the turndowns so I could vent the exhaust away from the underside of the car.

I can't remember if QTP offers a lifetime warranty, but I do know that no matter who makes them, the valves will eventually need to be replaced. With the Race Ready cutouts, you have the option to run them open or closed (with the blankoff plate) while you wait for the replacements.

By the way, what's the weather like there in the "Depths of Hell"? It can't be much hotter than it's been here in Texas.
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Last edited by kmcd; 09-15-2011 at 09:29 PM.
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