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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

View Poll Results: Drive shaft to lower drag times or not?
carbon drive shaft 6 54.55%
aluminum drive shaft 1 9.09%
none, it wont lower the times at all 4 36.36%
Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 09-15-2011, 10:39 PM   #1
SilverSS3108

 
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Gears & ...???

Just got my 3.73 gears in today!!! Debating on doing a single piece aluminum or carbon driveshaft. Does the drive shaft make any gains in the 1/4 times? What are yalls opinions on them?
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:43 PM   #2
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No the driveshaft will not have any noticable power increase, on the dyno you will get a couple hp but varibles usually obscure it out. People get them more cause they are cool to have
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:50 PM   #3
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I don't care if my car dynos high or not... I'm after lower 1/4 mile times. Dyno #s are just for talkin shit. 1/4 times are where the action is at.
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:07 PM   #4
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Well technically the carbon fiber will lower your times, and Aluminum would be slightly better than stock too, just be aware that i dont have these parts on my car, just what people have told me. But to me they are so miniscule the money would better spent else where unless you are running so much power you will break stock
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:50 PM   #5
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My goal is 10.XX NA on stock bottom end with no bottle. With that being said every .1 is going to count.
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSS3108 View Post
I don't care if my car dynos high or not... I'm after lower 1/4 mile times. Dyno #s are just for talkin shit. 1/4 times are where the action is at.
That could not be more true my man Personally I dont know for sure, but a lighter drive shaft and getting rid of the 2 sections should help. Its less rotating mass and less parts to break, I would do it! You will have a lighter and stronger setup so it only makes sence it would be faster, depending on how much lighter will depend on how much faster. Good luck with your goal, its going to take some thought.. my new goal is trying for 11s bolt-ons only now, then low 11s cammed.
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:40 AM   #7
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Check out TSP on the fast list... I'm gonna base my motor off what they did and take it 2 steps further. 11.174 with
* 2010 Camaro SS L99 A6 (raceweight prob about 3850 to 3900+)
* 6.2L 100% stock shortblock
* TSP/PRC LS7 6-bolt small-bore heads (final prototypes for future release)
* LS7 Rocker arms (for the LS7-derived heads)
* TSP VVT Camshaft 23x/24x
* TSP 1 7/8" Longtubes / Induction
* Yank 4000 Stall Converter
* Stock A6 Transmission
* Stock Gearing
* 100% Stock Suspension, nothing at all aftermarket
* Weld 17" Drag Wheels
* Hoosier Slicks
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:48 AM   #8
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I figure for my build, which I am in progress of getting it ready for the track. My car is a M6, and has 504rwhp 445rwtq on the 22's. The next round of stuff will be clutch, axels or 9" which will include the driveshaft. I figure, if I really want to launch this car on dr/slicks I had better replace the driveshaft, clutch, and axels. Why take the chance of breaking something like the driveshaft and have it screw up the bottom of the car ???
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:21 AM   #9
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mines an Automatic though. Breaking isnt a concern as Ive yet to hear of an auto tearing one up. Ive read on DSS's website that it drops 60ft times but Id rather get it from some real life, non biased users. Depending on feedback I should end up with a driveline consisting of a 3600 stall converter, 3.73 gears, JRE posi mod, and maybe the d-shaft. Im kinda squirly about the carbon one though because it seems like I read somewhere that it weakins after prolonged use and due mainly to stress and heat from the exhaust?
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:40 AM   #10
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That is a killer setup they have, I would stick with the 4000 stall though. I personally dont think a 3600 is going to be enough if you want 10s! The biggest concern with these cars is getting all the weight out of the hole, There setup would most likely go 10s with some suspension work seeing that they are stock! I would look to drop a little wieght and mabey even go with MORE convertor like a 4200, add some suspension parts and I think 10s are there.
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Old 09-16-2011, 11:44 AM   #11
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Ya... I'm thinking if they can run 11.1x on that... If I add BMR springs, trailing arms and sways, 3.73 gears, driveshaft, fast intake and 102mm TB, and little weight reduction I should hit 10s just fine. My deal is I don't want to wate money on a shaft if it's not going to help my goal.
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:46 PM   #12
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Well I dont see the shaft being cheap, so I would wait on it if your going to do this in stages! I personally think it would help some, but there allot of work you need to do. I dont know jack about the auto trans, can you use a brake in that thing?
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:57 PM   #13
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I am doing it in stages but not for the typical reasons... I did full bolt-ons... Now I'm doing drive line (converter, gears maybe shaft), then suspension, then maybe I'll have finally made up my mind on my exact eng build Lol
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:47 PM   #14
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BUMP..... results from someone with a single piece aluminum or carbon drive shaft...
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Old 09-18-2011, 01:19 PM   #15
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No results to post, but anytime to can reduce rotating mass, its a winning combo.
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Old 09-18-2011, 03:23 PM   #16
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I think the 3.90's are the best but they also cost the most!!
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Old 09-18-2011, 04:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSS3108 View Post
BUMP..... results from someone with a single piece aluminum or carbon drive shaft...
I think you'll see better times with a suspension upgrade or a gear swap over the driveshaft. Reducing rotating mass helps not to mention they are stronger then stock but I'd look into gears and suspension first. We carry BMR suspension at some pretty good prices if you're interested. We also carry GForce drivesharts.
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Old 09-18-2011, 06:40 PM   #18
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I will def be doing BMR suspension upgrades but not till I'm done with the drive line. I'm not worried about getting big drops in times right off the bat... More worried about the end result after all the puzzle pieces are put together. What kind of gains do you normally see with the G-Force shafts? Or is it just for strength?
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Old 09-19-2011, 12:03 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by SilverSS3108 View Post
I will def be doing BMR suspension upgrades but not till I'm done with the drive line. I'm not worried about getting big drops in times right off the bat... More worried about the end result after all the puzzle pieces are put together. What kind of gains do you normally see with the G-Force shafts? Or is it just for strength?

It's more of a strength thing but being lighter they will help you get through the gears a bit quicker. I can't say I've seen anyone do any before and after testing on that item alone.
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