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Old 09-21-2011, 04:13 PM   #1
94ChevyCamaroV6
 
Drives: 1994 Chevy Camaro V6 3.4L Car.
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Camaro transmission mount question.

I have a 1994 Chevy Camaro V6 3.4L Car. It has vibration a little bit when In drive and I hear a thump sound when I give the car a good amount of gas. I am guessing this Is the transmission mount. I have found one online for around thirty bucks shipped and I am looking for any websites that show how this Is Installed on the car. I am thinking about getting a haynes manual. But I heard that the manuals are limited on Information. Can people here find a site where shows step by step Instructions maybe with pictures for my car In specific. I am fifteen years old and I want to work on my car myself because I cant learn without trying so I dont wanna keep bringing the car In to get repair I want to try fixing things myself and the transmission mount Is only a few bolts anyway. I also have to buy Jack stands In order to get the car In the air to work on It so If you know of any cheap Jack stands at stores that would be cool because shipping would be alot of money If I bought them online. Any Information about Installing this transmission mount would be nice but I want the Information for my car then.
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:24 AM   #2
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Have you been able to get under there to see if it's loose yet? Could be a couple of different things.

I would HIGHLY recommend picking up the haynes (Chilton makes good ones too) manual. I try to buy one for every vehicle I own, and it will surely have instructions in there for removing the trans mount. Likely in a section describing how to remove the whole trans. It'll come in handy for so much more you'll thank yourself for getting it later. Especially wiring diagrams etc. For a car that age, you WILL be looking up wiring schematics haha.

Jack stands can pretty much be found at just about any auto parts store pretty cheap. I'm not sure what you're local stores are out there though because I"m in Canada. A set of ramps would be good too, depending on the type of maintenance you're willing to tackle. I'd recommend 1 set of ramps and 1 set of jack stands if you can afford it, then you can pretty much take care of everything. I'd be suprised if you had to spend more than $80-$100 for all of it.

If I were in your shoes, and have been many many times haha, trying to fix something on a budget. I'd go pick up some ramps, slide under the car and inspect the mount. You're looking for loose bolts and checking out the rubber isolator. If it's missing pieces of rubber or cracked and broken definitely need replacing. This is the kind of part you can get at Autozone or the like very cheap. If you have any wrecking yards nearby you can probably get one for 10 bucks. There's gotta be thousands of those cars out there. If it's loose or the rubber is in bad shape this is how you should replace it:

- safely lift the car (ramps or stands should be just fine)
- support the bottom of the trans with a jack, snugly fit under it.
- undo the bolts holding the tailshaft of the transmission and the rubber isolator/mount.
-Jack up the trans an inch or 2, just high enough to lift if off the mount.
- Undo the trans crossmember and pull it off

then just reverse that for re-install.

good luck! ask questions, we're here to help!
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Old 09-22-2011, 04:04 PM   #3
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Thats nice Information thanks and no I havent had a chance to get any manuals or parts yet but I can find a haynes one for fifteen bucks on rockauto then a chilton one for like 26 but Im not sure If the chilton one Is better and Is worth the extra fifteen bucks almost. I will be making a trip to auto store today If I can get there from my mom and I will check them out. As the Information that you said about using ramps to change the mount I dont thing that would work because I would be Jacking the transmission up sideways I think It would be easier to have the car on Jack stands and then work on level ground. I can get the transmission mount on rock auto for like twenty seven dollars shipped so thats a deal. I will see what I can find as far as Jack stands. I am Just a little scared to crawl under a car thats on Jack stands because my dad knows a girl from back In school where her father died of a car falling him then. But I will try It out then.
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:25 PM   #4
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I don't think the Chilton would be worth the extra. They're essentially the same thing, but you can check them out.

Using the ramps will definitely work, and they're much safter than jack stands. I've done it many times. I've changed entire transmissions only raising the front of the car. Even did one in a parking lot where the two of us bench pressed the trans back into place haha. I wouldnt recommend that though.

you won't be moving the trans much, just pushing it up an inch or so to take the weight off the mount. When you drop it back down it will drop right into the same spot. As long as you keep it bolted to the engine that is haha. The engine mounts will hold it in place. Something I may have forgot to mention though, is it an auto? if it is don't jack up in the middle of the pan, you can really hurt the valvebody and filter that way. try and jack it up just behind the pan on the tailshaft, or if you don't have any room to do that you can jack up under the pan BUT put a piece of plywood or 2x6 between the jack pad and pan to distribute the force and not dent the pan. Again you don't have to move it much, just enough to take the weight off the crossmember and be able to move it out of the way.
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:37 PM   #5
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This might help you visualize it a bit more.

1 - place jack under tailshaft of transmission if you have room. Don't jack up on the driveshaft U-joint

2 - remove nut holding rubber trans mount to crossmember

3 - jack up transmission slightly to take weight off crossmember, and remove the crossmember.

4 - Hidden from view here so I didn't put it on the picture. With the crossmember out of the way you can remove the rubber mount from the trans. Should just be 2 bolts. Replace it with the new mount, re-install crossmember, lower trans back down onto crossmember and put the nut you removed in step 2 back on.

Bingo, trans mount changed.
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:50 PM   #6
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That picture doesnt make any sense to me and I thought I was supposed to be lifting a oil pan or something that small number one thing. It Is a auto transmission yes. I will be serious to say that the directons and pictures meant zero sense to me but maybe a manual will explain better. I still cant see how lifting up the transmission when the car Is at a angle would lift It straight up that would lift the transmission at a angle because I cant see how a car on ramps would thats at a angle let the transmission be lift up straight then.
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:26 PM   #7
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Well..... I'm not gonna lie to you. If that picture doesnt make sense to you, maybe you should have someone either do the job for you or you need to do a lot more research before you start turning any bolts. That is a picture of the underside of a 94 Camaro with an automatic trans. Its a V8 but other than that it'll be pretty much the same as your car.

The trans doesn't have to be lifted straight up. It doesn't matter you're just propping the end up a bit so it's 1) easier to undo the crossmember and 2) so the trans doesn't drop and ruin the motor mounts.
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:39 PM   #8
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I should also mention that there's a chance it's not your trans mounts at all. There are good odds its a driveshaft U-joint wearing out. So you might want to pick up the haynes and give that a look as well.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:03 PM   #9
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I will pick up a haynes but I dont understand the logic for lifting up a transmission on car ramps would not make It lift up at a angle. Will the haynes manual tell me how to check for a u Joint. I know that If I can raise the transmission a little and the mount seperates then Its crap. But I think It would be alot more safer and I would be more confident working under car ramps because all I would have to do Is put blocks under the rear tires put the car In park and use the e brake then It would be sturdy I think then.
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Old 09-26-2011, 03:21 PM   #10
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yes when you use ramps, ALWAYS block the rear tires and put on the E-Brake.

You will be lifting the trans up on a bit of an angle, but that just doesn't matter. It will drop down into the same place when you lower it beacuse it's attached to the engine, and that's not going anywhere.

The haynes will tell you how to change the U-Joint, maybe a little bit of how to diagnose it as well. You'll probably find more info if you google "diagnosing bad u-joint" though. But classic U-joint symptoms are vibration and driveline slack (the thumping you're feeling)

I would recommend getting under the car and familiarizing yourself with what's under there. Try just tightening the bolts on the transmission mount first and driving around to see if that made any difference. Check out the rubber part of the mount and if there isn't any visible chunks of stuff missing and all the bolts are tight, the trans mount is probably ok. If you look at your U-joints and they look original, they could probably use replacing anyway as a general maintenance item. The good news is they're very cheap. You can probably get both for about $30 or less, and good rebuildable/greasable ones at that. They're not difficult to replace if you have a few of the right tools, and there's many good youtube videos to show you how to do it. U-joints are just about the same on every vehicle.

Good luck!
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:42 PM   #11
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Is It hard to replace a u Joint because I dont have much knowledge with cars and I will be buying a basic socket wrench set to get my knowledge started but how hard would ya say It would be for a person without any knowledge of fixing cars but If I watched a youtube video etc then.
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:57 AM   #12
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It's not difficult and only requires basic tools. It's easiest with a bench vise, hammer, and a couple sockets. If you have the originals with vinyl locks you might need a little propane torch to melt the vinyl off (sometimes heating up the joint makes it easier to remove anyway), but that's about the only specialty tool. You can get by without a bench vise as well, but it makes it 10x easier. Places like AutoZone and Napa often rent tools for cheap or free (just leave a deposit and you get it back when you return the tool). There is a C-clamp type tool you can get that helps press out the bearing cups if you don't have a bench vise, but in my experience the vise is still much easier.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=mGKX6kwKvSE

Check out this video. I watched it without sound because I'm at work, so I don't know what kind of information he's giving you verbally, but it's the exact method I've used to replace dozens of U-joints. a bit of a disclaimer though: He re-installs used joints. Don't do that, they're so cheap it's not worth not installing brand new ones. And after he puts the new joint on, he doesn't wrap it with tape. Pause the video at 1:00 and he's showing you 2 driveshafts. One has the end wrapped in electrical tape so the bearing cups don't fall off. ALWAYS do that, otherwise the cup will fall off, all the little needle bearings will fall out and you'll be very upset because you'll be buying a new one. Or picking up all the little bearings, cleaning them and carefully placing them back in.

Option 2 is to remove the driveshaft, and take it in to a driveline shop and they'll swap out your U-joints in minutes for probably under $50 including the U-Joints.
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Old 09-27-2011, 06:21 PM   #13
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I thought a car only had one drive shaft what are ya saying about tape Im confused.
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:52 PM   #14
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Did you watch the video? If you're still confused after that, I'm afraid I really just don't know how to help you any more. Aside from saying get under the car and start familiarizing yourself with what is under there. Get a haynes and read it cover to cover.

Yes your car has 1 driveshaft, with 2 U-joints on it, one on each end. The tape is to hold the end caps on before you put it back on the car. The end caps are held in the yoke with clips, but the caps just slip on the cross piece and fall off easily.
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:08 PM   #15
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I get what ya saying ya saying that I put tape on the U Joints so that the cap doesnt fall off and the bearings wont come out and do I replace both ends of the driveshaft or Just one. Im not sure If this Is even the problem. But I wanna educate my brain a little more about cars. Then.
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:17 PM   #16
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Its actually much more likely to be U-joints than the trans mount. U-joints are a highly stressed high speed moving part. Trans mount is just a solid rubber block. I would almost put money on the fact its u-joints. Vibration and driveline clunking are classic symptoms.
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:25 PM   #17
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My dad thought they would be u Joints but I kept telling him that Its a transmission mount and I showed him the sound he said It was probably the transmission mount but I havent looked under the car yet because I dont have car ramps. Then.
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Old 09-28-2011, 01:24 PM   #18
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Yes... because you've diagnosed the trans mount problem using your sound automotive expertise haha. Sorry man, you never know until you get under there. I'd give it 10:1 odds though it's a U-Joint issue.

also... why do you keep saying Then at the end of a post? Do you mean Thanks?
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Old 09-28-2011, 03:30 PM   #19
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Its a habbit to say then at the end of my post but when I remove the drive shaft can I Just take the drive shaft out or are there other parts that will fall without the driveshaft on like will anything fall If not supported or do I simply take the shaft out then fix the u Joints. Then.
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Old 09-29-2011, 02:33 PM   #20
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you can remove just the driveshaft without any other parts. Trans fluid will run out of the tail though once you pull the driveshaft out of the back of the trans. So have a catch tray ready, or you can get a plastic plug/cap from a parts store to put in its place to plug the end.

if you're just pulling the driveshaft and using ramps to get the car up, back the car up on the ramps so the back wheels are up and the front wheels are on the ground. That way the trans is tipped forward and you shouldn't lose much if any fluid.
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:09 PM   #21
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I saw something on a video about marking a spot with a sharpie before taking off the drive shaft but Im not sure what Im supposed to mark or what they are talking about. Then.
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