Boston Subs that will DESTROY

[1_2Many]

I'm going with 2 of these in the trunk of my Camaro

http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/ca...product_id=374

They are 12" subs with tuned passive radiators...each one puts out the power and db of a 15" sub. Two of these babies is going to be just ridiculous. I'll have 400 watts RMS per sub going to them for now and if that's not enough I'll upgrade.

I figure these are perfect for the Camaro considering the small trunk opening. I'll put one in at a time and position them in the best sounding spot.

[Embalmer]

400 watts? Which amplifier?

You going to hook it up straight to the battery in the trunk or get a 2nd battery?

[trudawg660]

I bought this one already i think i need only one though its the most powerful sub Boston acoustics are selling. 1000 watt rms at 2ohms

http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/ca...product_id=373

[1_2Many]

Yeah I looked at the SPG, but honestly in my experience those monster type subs require too much power to sound good. The D5 is much more efficient and besides I'll be sticking with the stock sound system inside the car so I don't want to overpower it too much anyhow.

And the amp I'm going to use is an Akai ACA-2104 http://www.akai.com/product_detail.a...id2=24&id3=161 This is a low price amp that puts out a good 800 watts RMS at 4 ohms in bridged 2 channel mode. I've seen reviews that put it on par with 1200 watt RMS Audiobahn amps. But still I'm not positive it will be enough for the D5's so if it doesn't hit hard or clean I'm going to man up and get a proper Earthquake amp.

I haven't decided if I'm going to go with a 2 fared capacitor or run a 2nd battery. I really hate adding a ton of weight so I'm leaning towards the cap....either that or get a lightweight battery for my primary and use the stock battery as the amp power. In fact I'm so concerned about adding weight I'm considering making my own custom enclosures from fiberglass instead of the mdf Boston boxes.

[trudawg660]

i have already matched it with an amp, its a little on the pricy side am not buying it from here though i know their items are way over priced

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PDX1...owAll=Y&tp=115

And i know its alot of extra weight but i doubt i will be racing too much......unless i see a mustang

[1_2Many]

Nice amp...that'll do the trick. I used to rock this Earthquake D2 http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Earthquake_PH-D2/ until I had a flat tire and let the speaker wires touch the trunk lid of my Lexus. POOF it went.

[trudawg660]

you have to be careful when buying a amp because they will advertise that you are getting 1000 watts and you are really getting 400 rms at 2 ohm and 150 rms at 4 ohm and you drive up to someone thinking you have the best shit in the world, and come to find out my tweeters are louder than your subwoofers.

[WildBeast15]

look at ohm ratings when buying a amp if its 1000 at 1 ohm what is it at 2 or 4... it will decrease but will sound better in the long run...

[CamaroSkooter]

Originally Posted by trudawg660

i have already matched it with an amp, its a little on the pricy side am not buying it from here though i know their items are way over priced

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PDX1...owAll=Y&tp=115

And i know its alot of extra weight but i doubt i will be racing too much......unless i see a mustang

That's a really good amp. The nice thing about these, is if you plan on having two or three amps, you can stack these units on top of each other and save a LOT of space.

Originally Posted by 1_2Many

Nice amp...that'll do the trick. I used to rock this Earthquake D2 http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Earthquake_PH-D2/ until I had a flat tire and let the speaker wires touch the trunk lid of my Lexus. POOF it went.

That will definately do the trick. You sure you didn't just pop the fuse on the amp?

Originally Posted by trudawg660

you have to be careful when buying a amp because they will advertise that you are getting 1000 watts and you are really getting 400 rms at 2 ohm and 150 rms at 4 ohm and you drive up to someone thinking you have the best shit in the world, and come to find out my tweeters are louder than your subwoofers.

These days, when purchasing an amplifier just look for the tag that says "CEA-2006 Compliant." This tag indicates that the company adheres to this "voluntary" standard that advocates a uniform method for determining an amplifier's RMS power and signal-to-noise ratio.

Originally Posted by WildBeast15

look at ohm ratings when buying a amp if its 1000 at 1 ohm what is it at 2 or 4... it will decrease but will sound better in the long run...

A lot of amps are that way. Most will be rated for 1000 watts x 1 at 2-ohms but go down to 500 watts x1 at 4-ohms. That Alpine somehow is rated for 1000 watts x1 at both 2 and 4 ohms, which is handy.

[josh1147]

You're on the right track here!!

I'm running 2 of the SPG-555 in my 07 Avalanche. Each one has a dedicated PDX-1000 and the rest of the components(BA Pros) running on a PDX-4.150. The subs hit hard and everything is sonically correct. The amps get very hot, which is a concern, and they suck a LOT of power. I'm running 2 yellow tops with an isolator and I still have problems with lights dimming.

[CamaroSkooter]

Originally Posted by josh1147

You're on the right track here!!

I'm running 2 of the SPG-555 in my 07 Avalanche. Each one has a dedicated PDX-1000 and the rest of the components(BA Pros) running on a PDX-4.150. The subs hit hard and everything is sonically correct. The amps get very hot, which is a concern, and they suck a LOT of power. I'm running 2 yellow tops with an isolator and I still have problems with lights dimming.

Have you tried a capacitor? And where do you have the amps located?

[trudawg660]

Originally Posted by josh1147

You're on the right track here!!

I'm running 2 of the SPG-555 in my 07 Avalanche. Each one has a dedicated PDX-1000 and the rest of the components(BA Pros) running on a PDX-4.150. The subs hit hard and everything is sonically correct. The amps get very hot, which is a concern, and they suck a LOT of power. I'm running 2 yellow tops with an isolator and I still have problems with lights dimming.

sounds like you need a capacitor

a .5 Farad capacitor for systems up to 500 watts
a 1 Farad capacitor for systems up to 1,000 watts
a 2 Farad capacitor for systems up to 2,000 watts

[1_2Many]

Yeah the yellow tops will only provide reserve power and rundown protection...they probably can't discharge as fast as a capacitor to prevent dimming.


I was thinking of maybe building a custom enclosure in the spare tire well. I saw some photos of that opening today and it's very large and deep and since I'm getting an SS it won't have a spare anyways....also the battery is right there so talk about easy hook up.

Would there be a downside to connecting the amp ground directly to the negative post of the battery?

[trudawg660]

how do you plan on connecting the amp ground to the battery post, seem like the mat wouldn't sit flush might be wrong though.

[WildBeast15]

Originally Posted by CamaroSkooter

Have you tried a capacitor? And where do you have the amps located?

A cap is completely garbage and a waste of time... better off buying a second battery and doing the big3.


AND NEVER EVER EVER connect the amps neg to the batt's neg all the way upfront.. thats asking for a fire... run a 150amp fuse from the power wire off the batt to the amp about 18 inchs from the batt. then ground off the amp as soon as possible to the body of the car.. sand down to bare metal..
http://www.kinetikaudio.com/default.asp
batts they will save you in the long run... caps are just a bandaid to the rest of your system..

[My new Camaro]

best way to hook up a big system is to take it to pro

[WildBeast15]

Or just really do your research as some shops do not do great work...
this is from a shop in IL


Big Steve strippn shit





Amps are held on the headliner by zip ties......lol

speakers punched thru


This pic really is not funny.... but what you don't realize is that the door has been made out of construction styrofoam and was even carved to make the speakers look like they are fiberglassed in. wow

[Z/28orSs]

nice subs how much

[WildBeast15]

those subs arnt that great lol.. walmart subs. probably 100 bucks a pop..
if you want some really good and cheap subs go with dc sound lab..
http://dcsoundlab.com/specs.html
contact them for some really good subs and the dustcaps can be special ordered any color..

[josh1147]

I've never been a fan of caps...like another post said, just masks the problem. I drive my system hard too so not too surprised this is happening.

My A/V guy wants to redo the system but of course that takes money which is all going towards my new SS/RS. Besides, anytime he touchs my vehicles the bill has never been less than a $1K.

I'm using the BA Pro components in my Avy now...tweets are just a bit "bright" but sounds good. If you want a system that will just blow your mind, sonically correct, and just sounds incredible you should listen to the DynAudio component setup....it is by far the best I've ever heard....but a bit pricy for most folks.

[CamaroSkooter]

Originally Posted by WildBeast15

A cap is completely garbage and a waste of time... better off buying a second battery and doing the big3.


AND NEVER EVER EVER connect the amps neg to the batt's neg all the way upfront.. thats asking for a fire... run a 150amp fuse from the power wire off the batt to the amp about 18 inchs from the batt. then ground off the amp as soon as possible to the body of the car.. sand down to bare metal..
http://www.kinetikaudio.com/default.asp
batts they will save you in the long run... caps are just a bandaid to the rest of your system..

You're serious? A capacitor is exactly the solution this guy needs to solve the problem of dimming lights. Battery's are not designed to be quickly discharged over and over. This kind of use quickly diminishes the battery's life, even if it is a deep cycle battery.

And since the battery for the Camaro is in the trunk right next to where his amps are going to be, he's not really risking a fire by connecting the ground to the battery's negative terminal because the ground wire won't be that long. I don't know if that'll harm the battery at all, though, because I'm not familiar with that kind of situation. I've never had a battery that close to my amps before to even try attaching the ground wire directly to the battery.

[shevyman]

Well if you want to start talking sounds i have alot to say. yes alot of people are right that amps will say 2000watts but really only 500 watts on a good day. now it all depends on what you want do you want clarity or ghetto base. now clarity i am talking rooling down the street with your windows up system cranked to 25 and you hear the lyrics and the base clearly. or you can go with just windows up and car rattiling and muffled sound. go check out www.hertzaudiovideo.com now these two brands are insane. pricey but worth it. i only have one 12" hertz es 300 running off a 6.900 arc audio amp and at 4 ohms i am only putting out 155 watts rms and people can't belive how loud it is. i hit 127dbs and you can also hear the lyrics clearly. like a home theater with out a sub clear and i am running avi components for that. check it out. also check out sightwaves.com for ordering any of the stuff

[WildBeast15]

Originally Posted by CamaroSkooter

You're serious? A capacitor is exactly the solution this guy needs to solve the problem of dimming lights. Battery's are not designed to be quickly discharged over and over. This kind of use quickly diminishes the battery's life, even if it is a deep cycle battery.

And since the battery for the Camaro is in the trunk right next to where his amps are going to be, he's not really risking a fire by connecting the ground to the battery's negative terminal because the ground wire won't be that long. I don't know if that'll harm the battery at all, though, because I'm not familiar with that kind of situation. I've never had a battery that close to my amps before to even try attaching the ground wire directly to the battery.

a cap does not send a clean power to the amp and if that cap gets below 11 voltWHICH IT WILL.. that amp will go up in smoke.. caps are just a bandaid..that link i posted are bats MADE for sound systems... right now i just ordered 4 batts from them for my new system... i had a 40 farad cap in my truck and the lights still dimmed with 2400 watts rms...
batt is the only safe way to go.. and it doesnt matter if the batt is 10 inchs away from the amp you always want the best possible ground you can get... and where do you get that... The body itself...
and read the little note on the site i posted... it will take 100 farads to equal ONE 600cell batt.. so you will spend 100 dollars on a 1 farad cap or 200 on a batt??? that is 100 times as powerfull i just bought 4 of the hc16s and there great... and lots of power..

[1_2Many]

A battery cannot discharge as fast as a capacitor.

But isn't it true that you can remove a car battery after the car has been starting? So headlight dimming wouldn't be a battery issue it would be an alternator issue.

[WildBeast15]

Originally Posted by 1_2Many

A battery cannot discharge as fast as a capacitor.

But isn't it true that you can remove a car battery after the car has been starting? So headlight dimming wouldn't be a battery issue it would be an alternator issue.

a batt can discharge faster if you buy a 16v batt but the speed that is required to discharge is not needed for sound systems..
and yes you can unhook them but you will most likely FRY the electric system.. the first tip is to run a bigger batt up front(or in back for this case) and a bigger one in the back.. then upgrade the alt to something like a 250amp (300 or above is way to hard to spin and keep cool)... or if you get h.i.ds you wont get that much of a dim because the hids require almost half the power (35 volts compared to 55)

This is a team mates hhr and its load thats a hifonics TEN THOUSAND WATT RMS AMP..
look at how many batterys he needs.. NOT ONE SINGLE CAP.
and he hits 149.9 db daily.. he is pushing 155db...