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Old 10-12-2011, 10:08 PM   #26
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I have those same pads on now for a week with DBA 5000 rotors. Not as much dust as stock and stops similar. I heard a few squeals but not much. Honestly i had same pads on my BMW years ago and these pads don't stop as great as people say. Should have gotten the Carbotechs.
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Old 10-13-2011, 12:45 AM   #27
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Well its official. These brake pads are garbage.

I bedded the brakes as specified on the box and they still squeek.
The squeek is so loud and annoying that I've had to ALTER how I drive to avoid hearing it.
I took my car yesterday to the shop I always go to, that also installed the pads and said they were FINE. They took off the pads and even showed them to me and said they don't know why they squeek. They were a little dirty but nothing out of the ordinary. When they were installed they turned my rotors too.

I can make about 3-4 normal stops in traffic and then the squeek starts and its loud. People look at me like "S*** go get your brakes done!" The only way I don't hear it is if I stop harder than normal. And significantly harder. I mean stopping like I wasn't paying attention and had to stop suddenly. Thats not normal driving.

These damn pads squeek louder than the stock pads did when they were worn down. I guess I'm saving up now to buy new pads because I cannot stand this. I'm going to call the actual manufacturer later and see what they say, but you know what? These pads have been on my car since August so I'm probably S O L. wASTE OF $220.
The Hawk HPS compound is not garbage by any means. It is not a highly aggressive pad, to be sure. But certainly not junk. It's been around for over a decade with pretty predictable results.

Did you install these on brand new rotors, or at least rotors that had been professionally cleaned up? If not, I'm 99% confident the squeak issue is not with the pads. Fresh pads have a hell of a time seating properly on even slightly grooved rotors. The temptation is always there just to swap out pads and leave the rotors, which sometimes works. But more often than not, you end up pulling the rotors off later anyway (after cussing out the new set of pads). It's like putting old, worn solid lifters on a new camshaft -- not a good idea!

If they were installed on fresh or freshened up rotors, then they were probably glazed between the time they were new (and not bedded properly) until they were later. They will need to be removed, scuffed face down on 150 or so grit sandpaper on a very flat surface until the pad face is completely dull. Also, scuff the rotors friction faces with either a Flex-Hone or Scotch-Brite using a ton of elbow grease. Reinstall, re-bed. Done. You might add some Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant to give some resistance to the occasional, harmless low pedal effort, low speed squeal many semi-metallic pads will give off.

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Old 10-13-2011, 02:00 AM   #28
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Thanks that was helpful. I'll ask the shop to try this when I get time.
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Old 10-13-2011, 02:11 AM   #29
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I have the Hawk HPS brake pads and they only squeek occasionally. When they start doing it, I just get the car going about 40 MPH and then hammer the brakes, repeat, repeat again and it stops squeeking. I know the guys with slotted rotors have less issue with this because they are constantly scuffing/cleaning the pads on the slots. Sorry you're having issues with, they work fine for me.
Had the noise issue briefly at first, pulled and sanded the pad edges, grease piston contacts, and braked more aggressively - no more problems. Kinda like the crazy fast stopping .....complements the fast starts LOL

Slotted/drilled rotors though... 200+ degrees cooler on road courses!
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Old 10-13-2011, 12:29 PM   #30
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I think I may have found the problem.
1) When I had the brakes come in, the guy at the shop used this protocol to bed the brakes which he took from the vendor's website I purchashed them from:
Quote:
1.After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 8 brakings* from approximately 30-35 mph, applying moderate pressure. Do not go below 25 mph.

2.Make an additional 2 to 3 hard brakings* from approximately 50 to 55 mph. Do not go below 40 mph.

3.Allow 15 minutes for the brake system to cool down. Do not apply the parking brake# during this cooldown period.
I looked yesterday at the actual Hawk website last night before I left work and found a different protocol. It only differed by having you come to a near stop keeping the car above 5mph. The above protocol wants you to stay above 25 and 40 mph for steps 1 and 2, respectively.

Quote:
1. Make 8-10 stops from 30-35 mph with moderate pressure. Keep the car above 5 mph.

2. Make 2-3 hard stops from 45-50 mph with aggresive pressure (no ABS), keep the car above 5mph. You may smell the brakes, that's normal (I did).

3. Let the brakes cool for 15 min. and they are ready to go.
I mention this to the guys at the shop and they said It could have made a significant difference since the more gentle braking I quoted may not heat up the pads enough to cause transfer. He told me to try it the way its posted in the youtube vid where I nearly come to a stop, and then drive above 60 for 15 to cool the brakes. If that doesn't work they will reface them for free as suggested by Chris B.

So last night after work I went out to a lonely road that leave the county (state altogther) and bedded them as explained in the video and then took a nice 15 min into Southern New Mexico. Came home and parked my car all night. NOW. Today coming into work, I heard no squeeking. I drove 15min to work in light traffic making maybe 5-6 complete stops and then I'm about to pull into my parking space - the moment of truth. Nothing. No noise. I'll see how long this lasts and report back. I hope this took care of the issue but if not, I'll take it to the shop and see what they can do. I've never had high performance ceramic brakes before so I had no idea this was even needed. My 1st car was a Z24 and my second car was a G6 GT. Thanks for all the input guys.
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Old 10-13-2011, 04:37 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by scythezo6 View Post
So last night after work I went out to a lonely road that leave the county (state altogther) and bedded them as explained in the video and then took a nice 15 min into Southern New Mexico. Came home and parked my car all night. NOW. Today coming into work, I heard no squeeking. I drove 15min to work in light traffic making maybe 5-6 complete stops and then I'm about to pull into my parking space - the moment of truth. Nothing. No noise. I'll see how long this lasts and report back. I hope this took care of the issue but if not, I'll take it to the shop and see what they can do. I've never had high performance ceramic brakes before so I had no idea this was even needed. My 1st car was a Z24 and my second car was a G6 GT. Thanks for all the input guys.
Sounds like you are on the right path. No worries, all brake jobs should be done the correct way -- all the way, but many are not. The pads don't know which car they are on, but they need to run true against the rotor and need a good transfer layer put down on the rotor faces.
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Old 10-14-2011, 12:38 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scythezo6 View Post
I think I may have found the problem.
1) When I had the brakes come in, the guy at the shop used this protocol to bed the brakes which he took from the vendor's website I purchashed them from:


I looked yesterday at the actual Hawk website last night before I left work and found a different protocol. It only differed by having you come to a near stop keeping the car above 5mph. The above protocol wants you to stay above 25 and 40 mph for steps 1 and 2, respectively.



I mention this to the guys at the shop and they said It could have made a significant difference since the more gentle braking I quoted may not heat up the pads enough to cause transfer. He told me to try it the way its posted in the youtube vid where I nearly come to a stop, and then drive above 60 for 15 to cool the brakes. If that doesn't work they will reface them for free as suggested by Chris B.

So last night after work I went out to a lonely road that leave the county (state altogther) and bedded them as explained in the video and then took a nice 15 min into Southern New Mexico. Came home and parked my car all night. NOW. Today coming into work, I heard no squeeking. I drove 15min to work in light traffic making maybe 5-6 complete stops and then I'm about to pull into my parking space - the moment of truth. Nothing. No noise. I'll see how long this lasts and report back. I hope this took care of the issue but if not, I'll take it to the shop and see what they can do. I've never had high performance ceramic brakes before so I had no idea this was even needed. My 1st car was a Z24 and my second car was a G6 GT. Thanks for all the input guys.
That was pretty much the advice I gave you, if they start making noise again, you just repeat the process, and trust me they will make some noise again. Those hard stops, heating the pads up does the trick everytime. Good luck with them.
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Old 11-04-2011, 08:05 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by scythezo6 View Post
Well its official. These brake pads are garbage.

I bedded the brakes as specified on the box and they still squeek.
The squeek is so loud and annoying that I've had to ALTER how I drive to avoid hearing it.
I took my car yesterday to the shop I always go to, that also installed the pads and said they were FINE. They took off the pads and even showed them to me and said they don't know why they squeek. They were a little dirty but nothing out of the ordinary. When they were installed they turned my rotors too.

I can make about 3-4 normal stops in traffic and then the squeek starts and its loud. People look at me like "S*** go get your brakes done!" The only way I don't hear it is if I stop harder than normal. And significantly harder. I mean stopping like I wasn't paying attention and had to stop suddenly. Thats not normal driving.

These damn pads squeek louder than the stock pads did when they were worn down. I guess I'm saving up now to buy new pads because I cannot stand this. I'm going to call the actual manufacturer later and see what they say, but you know what? These pads have been on my car since August so I'm probably S O L. wASTE OF $220.

I have been saying this for months now!!! These brakes are HORRIBLE!! I bedded them EXACTLY how it says to, and they don't just squeak, they scream!!! I didn't have the extra $$$ to buy new stock brakes and return these to hawk, and couldn't afford to have my car down because this is my daily driver.. They literally scream like a trash truck or school bus NO EXCUSE for a sound such as this... And everyone that says that high performance brakes make noise obviously hasn't heard the scream these HPS pads make.I will never buy Hawk pads again.
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Old 11-04-2011, 08:19 AM   #34
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Also for anyone that wants to hear this scream, go to youtube, and type in Hawk hps brake pad squeal squeak 1. (i don't know how to imbed videos, sorry) After you guys watch this video, feel free to post whether or not this is the "NORMAL" sound that high performance brake pads make. This is EXACTLY the sound that my brakes give off, ESPECIALLY at lower speeds.
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:07 PM   #35
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i have the same pads. and when i make my way to work in the morning (only a couple of stops and they are usually pretty hard) they are quiet. but on the way home 1:30 in stop and go traffic they scream. I have had to do the same as you and start breaking harder.
When I installed the brakes i also installed new dimpled and slotted rotors. They did not squeek in the beginning, it started probably 5K miles on the pads
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Old 11-04-2011, 04:22 PM   #36
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I had a similar issue with rear sets on my C5. Hawk actually has pretty go customer service and sema second set out. The problem seems to be when you use them with old rotors. Honestly at 35k I dump the factory rotors if I were installing new pads. New take off rotors can be had for under $60 from SLP's eBay store. You must bed these properly or they will scream. The noise is caused by the friction/harmonics.
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Old 11-05-2011, 12:04 PM   #37
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Yea i probably have to swap my rotors out at this point... I have 30k miles just about, and already had my rotors resurfaced once.
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:38 AM   #38
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How far can I drive before I bed the pads? I have to drive about 10 minutes before I get to a safe spot, will this affect teh bedding process.

I tried to replace my rotors today, sand the pads, and add more grease but I couldn't break free any of the 4 caliper bolts so I just added more grease and called it a day. I'll have to take the car in for a rotor swap.

I have very bad squealing I think from two things. When I run my finger across the rotor surface I can feel uneven ruts or channels and the grease was pretty well worn away. Hopefully the new grease I added today will quiet things down until I get the rotors swapped and pads re-bedded.

FYI - I have Hawk HP+ pads on and waiting to add RB 2-piece rotors.
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:18 PM   #39
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How far can I drive before I bed the pads? I have to drive about 10 minutes before I get to a safe spot, will this affect teh bedding process.

I tried to replace my rotors today, sand the pads, and add more grease but I couldn't break free any of the 4 caliper bolts so I just added more grease and called it a day. I'll have to take the car in for a rotor swap.

I have very bad squealing I think from two things. When I run my finger across the rotor surface I can feel uneven ruts or channels and the grease was pretty well worn away. Hopefully the new grease I added today will quiet things down until I get the rotors swapped and pads re-bedded.

FYI - I have Hawk HP+ pads on and waiting to add RB 2-piece rotors.
10 minutes of driving will not hurt a thing. Just don't jam on the brakes until they are bedded, if you can help it at all.

When the new rotors are installed, you will need to resurface the pads again. I recommend 120 grit sandpaper laying face up on a flat surface. Cycle the pads face down on the sandpaper and oscillate in a circular motion until the pad friction surface is dull and even.

Fair warning, Hawk HP+ pads, while pretty damn effective for stopping, are not going to be quiet all the time. In fact, they are usually lightly to moderately noisy, and even louder at times. This is due to various ingredients that were added by Hawk to create that autocross and light track day pad. Hawk HPS and Performance Ceramic pads are usually quiet (depending on several factors, such as rotor surface condition, proper installation, proper bedding procedure, etc.), but the HP+ was never designed with reduced noise in mind.
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Old 12-04-2011, 02:32 PM   #40
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Thanks Chris B, I expected them to be noisy but they screach so bad I may go deaf. The first two weeks the squealing was normal, not too loud. Then they got really really bad to the point that my ears would ring from pain. Yesterday I added more grease, the orginal grease was almost all gone. Hopefully this helps until I get the new rotors and I can resurface the pads as you explain.
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:57 PM   #41
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Thanks Chris B, I expected them to be noisy but they screach so bad I may go deaf. The first two weeks the squealing was normal, not too loud. Then they got really really bad to the point that my ears would ring from pain. Yesterday I added more grease, the orginal grease was almost all gone. Hopefully this helps until I get the new rotors and I can resurface the pads as you explain.
Also, try using the Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant (the purple stuff). It says on longer than anything else and is not effected by heat, even from typical track days (up to 1600°F!). Most anti-squeal compounds are toast the first time the temperature exceed their maximum.
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Old 12-04-2011, 05:25 PM   #42
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Also for anyone that wants to hear this scream, go to youtube, and type in Hawk hps brake pad squeal squeak 1. (i don't know how to imbed videos, sorry) After you guys watch this video, feel free to post whether or not this is the "NORMAL" sound that high performance brake pads make. This is EXACTLY the sound that my brakes give off, ESPECIALLY at lower speeds.
I'd be LIVID if a $300 worth of pads (front and back) sounded like that, especially when they advertise no noise (assuming they've been bedded properly).
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:38 AM   #43
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I'd be LIVID if a $300 worth of pads (front and back) sounded like that, especially when they advertise no noise (assuming they've been bedded properly).
Is that noise normal for HP+ pads? Because my problem is 100% as it sounds and as described the BMW owner in the video. I found that the rotos have grooves and I'm still waiting to swap them, my fingers are crossed that will solve my problem.
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:20 PM   #44
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Is that noise normal for HP+ pads? Because my problem is 100% as it sounds and as described the BMW owner in the video. I found that the rotos have grooves and I'm still waiting to swap them, my fingers are crossed that will solve my problem.
HP Plus pads are not advertised to be quiet. They are auto-cross / light track day pads that are streetable, but they do dust like hell and make some noise. Add to that the fact that grooved rotors themselves cause a significant increase in brake squeal, and you will have all the neighbors knowing exactly when you get home.
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Old 12-24-2011, 12:52 AM   #45
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My HPS pads do the same thing and I will not be buying them again
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Old 01-04-2012, 01:13 PM   #46
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Update - I've been waiting before I post and since its been almost 2 weeks with virtually no break squeal I thinks its time to post an update. As I mentioned the noise was insanely loud. I took the car in to swap in Racing Brake rotors, I sanded the pad surface, and then went through the bed-in procedures. WOW, what a difference. The breaks barely make any noise now, just a ever so slight squeal which is hardly noticable. I'm very happy now, thanks for your help.
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:02 PM   #47
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Brake bedding procedures.

I used this procedure on the Hawk Performance HP Plus pads (not the HPS) and it did the trick. They were squealing like crazy and had new rotors put on at the same times as the pads. I have dimpled/slotted rotors. I tried to use the Hawk bed in procedures three times with no avail. Use this one and you will be happy. Do it just like it says with no deviations!! No squeaks or any noises for that matter anymore!!

Bedding The Pads - (NEVER DRAG the brakes)
Note: Never “Bed” pads on rotors, which have not first been “Seasoned.” Always allow a substantial coast down zone when bedding pads that will allow you to safely drive the car to a stop in the event of fade.

Perform four-repeated light to medium stops, from 65 to 10 mph, to bring the rotors to temperature.
Perform three light stops in succession. Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.
Perform three light stops in succession. Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph
to about 5 mph.
Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.

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Old 01-10-2012, 11:30 AM   #48
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Just had the hawk HPS pads installed yesterday. Did not do it as much for performance, but to reduce brake dust. Very rainy day in Houston yesterday so bedding the pads was not possible. This morning, I went out and performed some hard stops.... 3 from 35mph to 5mph, then 3 from about 60mph to 5mph. Brakes did not squeal....until about 5 minutes later.

WOW! Where are the earplugs!

Looks like I need to go back out and try the method mentioned above. I'll report back tomorrow or so.
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Old 01-15-2012, 09:25 AM   #49
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The Hawk pads are so unpredicatable. I put the Peformance Ceramic on my 2010 Camaro SS. I did the proper bed in procedure with brand new rotors and they squeal so loud it sounds like a bus stopping. It is extremely embarrasing. I put them on my 2011 Corvette Grand Sport Convertible. They squealed as soon as I put them on but after the bed in procedure they haven't made a noise since. And seriously on the Camaro, the brake dust from the ceramics is worse than stock. I'm going back to GM pads. I won't have to live with as much dust and I won't have to do multiple bed in procedures to get them to stop sounding like a bus stopping.
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:29 PM   #50
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Good info on the bedding process.

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