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Old 04-02-2009, 02:15 PM   #1
Looking Good in Red
 
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Tranny problems

Ever since I bought my car, it has had a tranny problem. The tranny is fine, until the car has been driving for a long time with no stops. It seems that if it is shifting alot, this doesn't happen as quickly, but on the interstate, it does. What happens is that after getting off the interstate after about 20-30 mins of driving, the tranny makes a whining noise, and the car shifts hard into 2nd gear and kind of hard into the other gears, but not so bad. It sometimes pulls a code, but it is a manufacturers code, and I haven't taken it to a dealer yet, because by the time I get there, the code is gone. Also, sometimes on the interstate, at anywhere from 65-80 mph, it can't decide to stay in 3rd or OD. It normally shifts to 3rd downhill, but up to 4th uphill. I'm about ready to pull the tranny and get it rebuilt (I have a guy that can do it for $650 if I pull it), but I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something simpler that I can replace before I do that.
BTW, it has been doing this without getting worse for about 15-20k miles. I have put a tranny cooler and the lucas tranny fix in it, and they both seem to help working together, however it just prolongs the hard-shifting.
Also, if I it starts acting up and I shut the car off for about 3-5 mins, it goes away, and all is happy, so I don't believe it is overheating.
Thanks for any help
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Old 04-02-2009, 04:10 PM   #2
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when was your last fluid change?
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Old 04-02-2009, 07:55 PM   #3
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I changed the tranny fluid and filter about 20,000 miles ago.
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Old 04-02-2009, 09:37 PM   #4
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Do you recall the code you pulled?
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Old 04-02-2009, 10:10 PM   #5
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I had a simular situation with my old 4th gen...ended up being clogged/bad cats?
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Old 04-04-2009, 08:12 PM   #6
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I don't have the code on me right now, but I can tell you tomorrow night. Thanks for any help. Btw, does $650 sound like a good price, or a rip off?
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Old 04-04-2009, 08:40 PM   #7
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I don't have the code on me right now, but I can tell you tomorrow night. Thanks for any help. Btw, does $650 sound like a good price, or a rip off?
depends on how much they are doing. more than likely you'll be right back there in less than a year. my trans builder here in town runs a price of $950.00 for stock 4l60e rebuilds with full new internals and machining down faces to run a roller bearing instead of a thrust washer, plus a few other things that he throws in.

we have a guy on our local forum who has spent $1500.00 getting his trans rebuilt 3 times ($500 each time) and it just crapped out on him again. had he followed the advice we gave him he coulda spent $1000 and had a "new" trans and $500.00 in his pocket.

but I dont know where you are getting it fixed. they might just pull it and replace whats busted and leave the rest, they might just swap it with another trans from a junked car and call it a day. who knows.
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Old 04-13-2009, 06:07 PM   #8
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sorry it took so long...
couldnt find the code, but it came up again today.
P1870
and for some reason, and i might just be completely imagining this but the number P1826 sticks out in my head.
please enlighten me on these hidden messages
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Old 04-24-2009, 08:10 PM   #9
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sorry it took so long...
couldnt find the code, but it came up again today.
P1870
and for some reason, and i might just be completely imagining this but the number P1826 sticks out in my head.
please enlighten me on these hidden messages
P1870 - Transmission Component Slipping
the computer is comparing input speed from the motor to the output speed of the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) when they arent matching properly it flags that code. basically the lockup clutch is not engaging properly. some people have been able to change the fluid and filter, clear the code and not have any further problem. others require the valve body to be swapped out.


P1826 - Internal Mode Switch Circuit C - High dunno off the top of my head, ill do some looking tho


www.shbox.com check out the reference section for the DTC codes for future reference.
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Old 04-25-2009, 12:41 AM   #10
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...

Nah, don't worry about that second one, I think I just imagined it.
I have been researching the 1870 and found out that there is a shift kit by Trans-go that fixes it. http://www.transgo.com/sk_generalmtrs.php

Thing is I don't know if it might do more damage putting it on a 140k tranny.
Looked on e-bay and it is priced about $80.
I would much rather spend the $80 rather than probably about a grand, but I don't know much about trannys and wouldn't know if putting it in would actually hurt it more.
Now, I like the excuse for getting a shift kit, its kinda good timing, but I don't want to be wasting money.
The Trans-go website also says that it improves tranny life, which might be another reason to put it in.
Also, one more thing. I just wanted to be sure it is the 4l60e.
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Old 04-25-2009, 02:54 AM   #11
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When I had an 1870, I had the valve body rebuilt (cost about $600) and it was fine from there.

The 4L60E is plagued by the 1870. Anyone who has one long enough will throw that code. If I remember correctly (it has been a couple years), it has something to do with a valve sticking and causing it to overheat. I'm also drunk, so take it for what you will.
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Old 04-25-2009, 09:56 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Looking Good in Red View Post
Nah, don't worry about that second one, I think I just imagined it.
I have been researching the 1870 and found out that there is a shift kit by Trans-go that fixes it. http://www.transgo.com/sk_generalmtrs.php

Thing is I don't know if it might do more damage putting it on a 140k tranny.
Looked on e-bay and it is priced about $80.
I would much rather spend the $80 rather than probably about a grand, but I don't know much about trannys and wouldn't know if putting it in would actually hurt it more.
Now, I like the excuse for getting a shift kit, its kinda good timing, but I don't want to be wasting money.
The Trans-go website also says that it improves tranny life, which might be another reason to put it in.
Also, one more thing. I just wanted to be sure it is the 4l60e.
im on the phone with my local trans guy. ill be back in here later to add some more


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When I had an 1870, I had the valve body rebuilt (cost about $600) and it was fine from there.

The 4L60E is plagued by the 1870. Anyone who has one long enough will throw that code. If I remember correctly (it has been a couple years), it has something to do with a valve sticking and causing it to overheat. I'm also drunk, so take it for what you will.
thats pretty close (for a drunk post...lol), but it causes the torque converter clutch to not lock up which causes slipping then overheating.

ive had heard of this code numerous times, but with 185k on my trans, I've never had that code. tho I did snap the 2/4 band
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Read that link that Spike posted, it'll tell you everything you need to know.
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Quote:
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Nobody makes CamaroSpike happy. You just disgust him a little less than other people.
"You can think I'm wrong, but that's no reason to quit thinking.”
Quote:
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But not all people were born awesome like you, Spike.
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Old 04-26-2009, 10:28 AM   #13
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Looking Good,
Sorry I missed your response.
As others stated, the 1870 slip code is not uncommon.
It is usually caused when internal leakage occurs within the valve body at the TCC module(solenoid).
Worse hot, like highway driving, the slight pressure loss allows the torque converter clutch to slip, ever so slightly.
The ECM sees the input/output difference and throws the 1870.
The reman valve bodies (at least the g.m. s) have a sleeve installed were the TC solenoid pin seats into the valve body when ECM commands lockup.
Originally, the pin seated directly into the aluminum valve body.
This steel pin eroded the port over time, allowing slight pressure loss as the fluid got hot and thinner, and of course, the fluid got even hotter and thinner as the torque converter slippage continued.
Long way of saying, you likely need only to replace the valve body to resolve the concern.
Last time I replaced one, I think retail/exchange was around 300.00
Good luck,
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