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Old 10-11-2014, 11:13 PM   #1
hammdo
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DIY: B & M Transmission Pan

Well, after doing the B & M dipstick (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379851), I hoped for an easier install here.

This one did NOT disappoint! This is an outstanding product and the install went flawless!.

First, I really liked the workmanship on this pan. I wanted to install this one so I could change the fluid more often AND have the added capacity for cooling in the Texas summers.

So, below are the steps I did to do a 'pan, filter, and fluid change'. This ALSO includes the 'upgraded' filter.

So, the parts are the B&M Transmission pan for the 6L80 (http://www.bmracing.com/products/703...d=492&eng=2541)

Link to instructions:

http://www.bmracing.com/bmnew/pdf/9500871.pdf

The 'Dex VI' fluid (8.5 quarts as the default is 6.7 quarts + 1.8 for the increased capacity of the pan. GM gave me a great deal on the 9 quarts):



Upgraded filter ( the one for the Camaro is 24236931 -- the upgrade is 24236933):



Pan Gasket (GM) 24224781):




Now, for my special funnel, I'll show what I did in order to work with the B&M dipstick -- this save my bacon (pun intended as I am, after all 'Hamm') and made it EASY to fill.

But first, I jacked up the car as high as I could on my 45* driveway (this way, I could open the 'level check' and let it drain out as much as I could before 'dropping' the pan in the back until it stopped flowing:



Once this area starts draining slowly, I remove the back bolts and then went to the sides and front and worked them until the back of the pan dropped enough to let as much of the fluid drain (do this slowly and make sure your drip pan/etc is in position):



Once it slows, you can remove the rest of the bolts and remove the pan. Here is why you should remove the pan:



Quite a bit left! So, once the pan is removed, you need to get the magnet, clean it and get it prepped for the new pan:



Now, its time to remove the old filter. Take your time, follow the B&M instructions (pull gently, it will come out).



Here is the old filter and the new filter (the old one is @ an angle).



Notice how much 'wider' the opening is -- this is what the difference is -- everything else is the same (size etc).

Before you put the filter in, you need to remove the seal. I had to use a screwdriver and 'gently' pull it out (the instruction say it may come out -- but it wont -- you will need to use the screw driver. I used it as a 'fulcrum' and placed it like this:

/

against the inside on the metal part of the seal and just 'pull the handle' up a little @ a time until the seal popped out):



Once you get it out, you'll need to 'tap in' the new one. I used a 24MM socket, extension, and brass hammer to 'gently' tap it in. Start it as straight as you can, and just 'ease' it in. This is what it looks like:

Seal:



Tools:



Went in just perfect -- take your time and check often:



Now, put in the new filter. I found if I put a little trans fluid around the 'neck' of the filter tube, it slides in nice:



Perfect fit!

Now, its time to prep the new pan. First, we need to put on the magnet. I cleaned it real well, and, following the instructions, place it in the location specified:



The kit comes with a washer and a bolt. They do NOT tell you to use Blue Locktite on the bolt, but I WOULD so it does not come loose. Here is what it looks like installed:



Now, its time to plug the 'rear openings' of the pan There is a hole for a temp prob (not needed for our models) and the drain. Here are the locations:



Brass is the prob location:



Now installed per instructions (Teflon tape):



Now the 'is the pan full' bolt. Notice the recess in the pan and how you have to install it. Follow the instructions for torque specs:







Now its time for the gasket. It ONLY GOES ON one way -- whew. You don't need any sealer, just set it on, using the locating nubs, and bolt it in place:






Not torqued yet:







SLOWLY snug the bolts following the sequence and torque spec (I just did them VERY slowly). I put in 2 in the front, 2 in the back just to hold it in place (not tight) and then install the rest. Slowly snug them up and then following the sequence in the instructions. DO THIS twice as I found after I tighten them the first time, some required to be re tightened. Just follow the sequence a second time and don't over tighten them! You will need metric allens to install these (I did it by hand so I would not over-tighten them). BTW, don't worry about a small 'drip' while you tighten the gasket -- once it torqued, it will stop and YOU SHOULD NOT use the stock bolts:



Cleaned and verified (clean the area and the 'support brace BEFORE you fill it so you can be sure there are no leaks):



So, now that I had everything buttoned up, it was time for filling. A trip to Lowes got the Teflon tape and this:



This fitting fits perfect in the B&M trans dipstick (with Teflon tape):



Now, some 1/2 OD 3/8 ID clear tubing that I attached to my 'AutoZone' funnel ( I cut a 'small' slit on both ends of the 1/2 tube to make it easier to 'slide on' to the fitting and funnel):



Funnel:





I actually used a zip tie in order to keep it from 'dropping'

Attached to fitting:



This worked GREAT. I was able to put in the 8 1/2 quarts of fluid (remember 6.7 is stock, 1.8 is needed extra for the new pan so 8.5 quarts total). I then used the 'Method A' to test the fill and it was spot on. I did let all the fluid drain (with the pan off) for about an hour to make sure all the fluid was out -- there was fluid in the old filter also so all in all, it was a good idea to wait). What I REALLY like about the funnel is the 'blue' section is an 'on/off' -- you turn it one way its 'on', opposite its off -- very nice!

So, once filled, checked with the dip stick per instructions (I did check the 'original' fluid level with the dip stick method first) -- everything went flawless. Transmission had zero leaks, shifted smoothly and looks awesome. THIS was well worth the mod.

So, every oil change (should I choose), I can now 'drain the trans' and add the new fluid. This will make it MUCH easier to keep the transmission clean (and it was VERY clean to start thank goodness). This is an AWESOME upgrade! Now, when the 'heat' kicks up here in Texas, I'll feel much better knowing the pan will help cool it and the 'upgraded' filter will speed the fluid on its way.

BTW, B&M does give Camaro5 discounts so if you do the dipstick and pan, you'll like it (the stick is growing on me -- still think it can be improved -- we'll see!).


Hope this helps!

-Don

Last edited by hammdo; 10-12-2014 at 02:10 AM.
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Old 10-12-2014, 01:20 AM   #2
hammdo
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As a follow-up:

I took it for a drive and notice a small leak from the 'is the pan full' bolt location:



Re-torqued the bolt and that took care of it. I think I'd add some hi-heat red silicone around the 'base' of the bolt just as a precaution.

So what about the 'other' fluid in the transmission? Well, I'll try this for about 100 miles and then 'drain and fill' one more time -- I know, it is $60 but, this way, I'll be able to 'cycle' the old oil out more often.

-Don
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Old 10-12-2014, 06:05 PM   #3
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Nice write up

Ahmad
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Old 10-13-2014, 05:28 PM   #4
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Ahmad, Thanks again!


Today, I drove it around 100 miles and then drained the pan (using the new drain plug!). Cleaned and sealed the 'alternate' full plug (used hi-temp silicone), cleaned and Teflon taped the drain plug, and filled it with 8.5 quarts. Re-torqued all the pan bolts, and then checked fluid level using the B&M dip stick (did I mentioned its growing on me?). Then, a test drive.

Just the way it should be!

Now I can do the transmission change as needed! I do wish the Converter had a drain but I'll take this for sure! So far, I moved 17 quarts of new fluid into the transmission so most of the 'old' fluid should be gone within 2 or 3 changes. Huffines Chevrolet (Lewisville TX) sold me the Dexron VI for $6.96 a quart so that is HARD to beat!

She drives and shifts NICE (Vitesse @ SP5 is AWESOME) -- So, its great knowing I can change the fluid more often. Next, will be the Heater Hose Relo, then 'Street Cradle' bushings and toe rods!

-Don
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Old 11-24-2014, 08:25 PM   #5
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don,great write up

i am going to do this shortly along with the hurst shifter and dipstick.did you notice cooler temps afterwards ?
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:25 PM   #6
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Yes. About 15 to 20 degrees. Right now the temps are all under 180.
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Old 03-12-2016, 12:37 AM   #7
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B&M Dipstick 2011 Camaro ss

Wow, took a long time to install the dipstick as I could not get the last 6 inches of the dipstick to feed thru the braided tube. Had to take it out of the transmission case 4 times and the last time I just took a dow rod and shoved the braided tube as high as it would go up in the transmission tunnel and finally the dipstick would seat fully into the transmission case. Wish B&M would make the stainless steel braided dipstick a heavier gauge wire as it might not bind in the tube. Anyway finally got it to work and I am glad I did not give up. Just be sure to push the braided tube as far up as you can into the transmission tunnel which will decrease the bend rate and allow the dipstick to push through properly.
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:25 PM   #8
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How much lower is the deeper pan if the car is lowered and sometimes drag the exhaust, would the pan drag?
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:13 PM   #9
hammdo
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3/4 inch lower. I'm lowered an Inch and have had no problems... Mine is just above the exhaust. Really depends on how lowered you are...

I can take a pic of mine if you need one...

-Don
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:57 PM   #10
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B&M Transmission Pan Install 2011 Camaro SS L99

Hardest part of the installation was prying out the filter seal from the transmission case. Used a pretty good size screw driver and it finally came out for me but took awhile. A good tip is to seal the transmission fluid check bolt as mine started to drip a little after installation. I removed the bolt and let the fluid drain completely and then sealed it with Teflon tape which stopped the leak. This pan is a great product and very well made and I am glad I did the install plus it looks great.
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Old 06-23-2016, 02:41 PM   #11
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Hammdo, excellent right up... really is.

I got lost in your links though, I started with the original L99 DIY but I can't seem to figure the rest out.

Can you post a link to everything pretty much needed for the transmission fluid change?

Edit: I spoke to a local service tech and he said they don't drop the pan... what they do is pump all the fluid out and through the ac hoses?

Isn't dropping the pan necessary to clean the magnet ?

Last edited by Dmpsix; 06-23-2016 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 06-23-2016, 07:43 PM   #12
hammdo
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The dealer uses a pump machine that has a few gallons in it; One side measure the amount taken, the other is new fluid. It simple runs the old fluid out while drawing the new fluid in.

They don't change the filter or clean the magnet. It's a way for them to do it fast. The machine ranges from $700 to $1500, or more. These are for the big shops not the DIY guy.

Ask B&M for the Camaro5 discount, just send them a PM or, see if any vendors (RDP, JDP,etc) for a quote. The factory gasket is the way to go.

Don't forget the Teflon tape for the drain bolts. The funnel is from autozone, the barb is from Home Depot or Lowe's...

-Don
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Old 11-03-2016, 02:56 PM   #13
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Very nice write up on the trans pan. Definitely going to upgrade mine.
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