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Old 10-31-2011, 09:03 AM   #26
JusticePete
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freeman View Post
Pete

Are you saying that replacing this upper insulator could actually get rid of my annoying thumping noise.
Will GM replace this in a TSB issue, if I requested it or will they again say there is nothing wrong with it.The strut assembly would have to be removed to replace this insulator.is this correct?

Thanks for all the support
I have not been able to locate a TSB on the black flat rubber ring replacement with the new steel and urethane insulator. That said, I have personally worked with three different Chevrolet New Car Dealers to resolve front end noise by doing exactly that. It worked.
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Old 11-01-2011, 01:39 AM   #27
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Thanks Pete

I am in the process of storing my car for the winter,I defiantly will try and have those replaced, in the spring.You did not say whether the strut assembly had to be removed or not in order to replace them.Also would you please post the part number for those upgraded upper insulators.

Cheers
Again thanks for all the advise and help in trying to solve this problem.
The strut does have to be removed to install the new insulator. The way I found out about the upgrade is we ordered a couple of mounts from GM to have on hand for R & D. When they arrived they had the steel and urethane insulator. We double and triple checked with GM and found the new style had superseded the old style. You can't buy the old style rubber insulator from GM. I am at SEMA and have asked the guys at the office to dig up the part number.
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:36 AM   #28
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The pop/thump sounds may have something to do with the gap between the top strut retainer and the strut tower. My experience was, when I jacked the front up I would sometimes hear a mysterious thump or two. Couldn't find anything loose but I noticed that the gap between the strut tower and retainer was not there with the front jacked up. Trying to find out if this gap was normal, I ran into this thread...
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ght=toilet+mod
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:41 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Cam 427 View Post
The pop/thump sounds may have something to do with the gap between the top strut retainer and the strut tower. My experience was, when I jacked the front up I would sometimes hear a mysterious thump or two. Couldn't find anything loose but I noticed that the gap between the strut tower and retainer was not there with the front jacked up. Trying to find out if this gap was normal, I ran into this thread...
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ght=toilet+mod
The strut retaining plate functioned as designed when you lifted your Camaro. It retained the strut. The 10, 11 & 12 all use the same mount with the same 'gap'.
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Old 11-01-2011, 04:33 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by rolnslo View Post
I fixed this problem by trading in my 2010 Camaro for a 2011 SS with the revised strut towers. Been over every road surface that used to make my 2010 sound like it was falling apart and not a single issue with the 2011. GM wouldn't have redesigned the strut towers if there wasn't a problem with the initial design used in the 2010.
I have the same issue on my 2012. Fixed only on SS's perhaps?
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:01 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
The strut retaining plate functioned as designed when you lifted your Camaro. It retained the strut. The 10, 11 & 12 all use the same mount with the same 'gap'.
I realise that the gap was designed to allow the top of the strut to move around as the suspension works, but this "gap" may be the cause of some the noise complaints. See post 12 by BMRguy.
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:22 PM   #32
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I get a very slight pop sound when at low speeds making a wide turn... but it is once in a blue moon.
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Old 11-01-2011, 09:08 PM   #33
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Like many other people I have a popping sound that comes from my suspension when going up a steep incline (like a drive way) or going slow over speed bumpers and other rough areas. However I have aftermarket sways, end links and springs and have had them for over a year, and I cannot remember if I had this problem before I changed my suspension or not. Either way, it's good to hear other people have a similar issue and not just me.
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:11 AM   #34
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I have the same issue on my 2012. Fixed only on SS's perhaps?
No sir. There is no difference in the front suspension between the 6 and 8. The spring and damping rates are different, but they were in the 10 & 11. It is not a design or parts issue. It is a series of small things that can be addressed following the previously posted process.
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:19 AM   #35
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Like many other people I have a popping sound that comes from my suspension when going up a steep incline (like a drive way) or going slow over speed bumpers and other rough areas. However I have aftermarket sways, end links and springs and have had them for over a year, and I cannot remember if I had this problem before I changed my suspension or not. Either way, it's good to hear other people have a similar issue and not just me.
The only issue you would have with your aftermarket parts that is different from OE is found in the spherical endlinks. Sphericals can make noise even when properly installed. You can trouble shoot that by disconnecting one endlink bolt. This disables the sway bar. CAREFULLY secure the disconnected endlink. Wrap all the sphericals in electrical or duct tape to prevent them from 'rattling' while unloaded. Take a CAUTIOUS test drive to check for noise. Why cautious? Your front sway bar is disconnected creating a drastic change in handling. If this does not alter the noise it is not an endlink. We go back and follow the trouble shooting process.

There is also a possibility the lowering coils could be making a noise. We have seen some points of contact between the lower front coil winds and the OE spring perch in some aftermarket coils. By removing the front tires and inspecting the coils for points of contact or unusual wear in the powder coating you should be able to confirm or eliminate the coils as a source of your noise.
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Old 11-02-2011, 10:54 AM   #36
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Then take it off for a test drive and confirm the plate to be guilty as charged or let him walk free.
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:48 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
I do know that the Camaro strut mount is designed with a bias toward performance and durability at the expense, to a degree, in Noise, Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Given the performance numbers we achieve in our Pedderised Camaros and the Ring time of the ZL1 they gave done very good job. None of that addresses the pain in the but noise some experience. My frustration is I really believe our process works from replacing the upper insulator to making sure everything is tight.

Hey Pete, how do you know the strut mount is designed with a bias toward performance?

I'm not calling you out on this, I just need real facts.
My last sport car purchase was a 2007 G35 6mt, 2 door coupe.
After purchasing the G35 I found it to have a terrible clutch and transmission and was on it's way to being one of the oil burners.
The G35 was a huge dissapointment.

This strut mount on the Camaro is keeping me on the fence with a 2012 purchase.

Would like to be driving a 2SS/RS soon.
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Old 11-03-2011, 02:13 AM   #38
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You are correct to say that the top of the strut plate moves when turning right or left.
I have put a thick washer under the plate and all it did was twist it up and went under the plate.It did not help in anyway.
I looked at trying the toilet gasket mentioned in another thread but I was a little concerned that it would chew it up knowing the top of the strut moves clockwise/counterclockwise when turning.
like Pete says there could be problems elsewhere but I am convinced that my problem is in the top of the strut, the gap area that BMRguy is talking about.He described my problem to a 'T'
I've been running the toilet gaskets for a few hundred miles now and they're in great condition. They're cheap if you had to replace them.
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Old 11-13-2011, 02:22 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
The strut does have to be removed to install the new insulator. The way I found out about the upgrade is we ordered a couple of mounts from GM to have on hand for R & D. When they arrived they had the steel and urethane insulator. We double and triple checked with GM and found the new style had superseded the old style. You can't buy the old style rubber insulator from GM. I am at SEMA and have asked the guys at the office to dig up the part number.
Can I get the info on this please?
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:30 AM   #40
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Can I get the info on this please?
Part number for the new insulator is 20859337.
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Old 11-18-2011, 05:06 PM   #41
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Old 11-18-2011, 05:26 PM   #42
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Part number for the new insulator is 20859337.
Thank you for posting the PN!

FYI, the same part number will also fit the ultra quiet BUICK
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Old 11-18-2011, 07:03 PM   #43
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Part number for the new insulator is 20859337.
Thank you! I called my Dealer and they did not have a new number for it,which meant they would be installing the original again. He asked me if I could get the new number for him,lol.
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:41 PM   #44
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Thank you! I called my Dealer and they did not have a new number for it,which meant they would be installing the original again. He asked me if I could get the new number for him,lol.
The part number did NOT change, the part changed.
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Old 11-19-2011, 10:42 PM   #45
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The part number did NOT change, the part changed.
Oh, good to know. Thank you!
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Old 11-20-2011, 01:13 AM   #46
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For those still having the popping nose from the front, look at the spring and see if you can see where the powder coating is sraped off. On mine, it showed signs of hitting on the first big coil from the bottom, facing out. With the tire off, it should be staring right at you. The spring itself looked like it moved just a tad clockwise and was just barely hitting on the lower perch. We took the spring off, inspected, and reassembled, making sure everything was lined up. This was on the drivers side. On the passenger side, we looked at it with the wheel off and noticed that it looked like it hadn't moved but the first big coil from the bottom also has signs of scraping on the lower perch. After thinking about it we came to the conclusion that the powerdercoating made the diameter just big enough to hit the perch and make the nose when compressed over bumps. We took a pair of channel locks and slightly bent out the lower perch on both sides, just where it showed signs of hitting. Took it out for a drive and no more popping when going over bumps. That was last week and went over the speed bumps down the road and no sound at all, other than the shock compression swoosh sound. I can't say this is the answer for everyone, but it's what apparently fixed mine.

For the record, mine is a Nov/Dec 09 build with the black upper isolator.
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Old 11-20-2011, 06:36 PM   #47
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My car for over 23000 miles has never made a noise. Got to be the way some are fitted. Maybe try reinstalling them and grease them with bushing lube perhaps.
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:39 AM   #48
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For those still having the popping nose from the front, look at the spring and see if you can see where the powder coating is sraped off. On mine, it showed signs of hitting on the first big coil from the bottom, facing out. With the tire off, it should be staring right at you. The spring itself looked like it moved just a tad clockwise and was just barely hitting on the lower perch. We took the spring off, inspected, and reassembled, making sure everything was lined up. This was on the drivers side. On the passenger side, we looked at it with the wheel off and noticed that it looked like it hadn't moved but the first big coil from the bottom also has signs of scraping on the lower perch. After thinking about it we came to the conclusion that the powerdercoating made the diameter just big enough to hit the perch and make the nose when compressed over bumps. We took a pair of channel locks and slightly bent out the lower perch on both sides, just where it showed signs of hitting. Took it out for a drive and no more popping when going over bumps. That was last week and went over the speed bumps down the road and no sound at all, other than the shock compression swoosh sound. I can't say this is the answer for everyone, but it's what apparently fixed mine.

For the record, mine is a Nov/Dec 09 build with the black upper isolator.
Any chance you took some pics?
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:53 AM   #49
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My car for over 23000 miles has never made a noise. Got to be the way some are fitted. Maybe try reinstalling them and grease them with bushing lube perhaps.
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:59 AM   #50
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This is interesting. Nobody has been able to tell me why my car makes these popping/clunking noises since I installed the lowering springs.

Maybe I'll order the new isolators if their fairly cheap and see if it helps.
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