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Old 10-22-2011, 10:31 AM   #1
ssmike
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Trailing arm outer bushing removal question?

I'm attempting to remove the outer trailing arm bushings but I can't figure out how to get the 2 prong puller on the bushing because the lower control arm is in the way. I removed the bolt and can raise the hub assembly but then I noticed that the rotor/shield will prevent the bushing from coming out in that direction. Do I need to remove the rotor/shield also? How is this done properly? Thanks!
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:49 AM   #2
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Disregard, I got it! No need to remove anything! It was a tight fit but they came out like butta!
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Old 10-22-2011, 12:50 PM   #3
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+1 great! Another great way to do this and show everyone that is thinking of doing this!!
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Old 10-22-2011, 02:59 PM   #4
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Nice. I hadn't even thought about doing it like that. I may do it tomorrow.
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Old 10-22-2011, 03:22 PM   #5
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Nice. I hadn't even thought about doing it like that. I may do it tomorrow.
Go for it! The hardest part was trimming the rubber with a utility knife! Once I figured out how to postion the puller the bushing came out very easy!
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Old 10-22-2011, 04:26 PM   #6
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Yup, that's exactly how I did mine! It sounds harder than it actually is!
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:21 PM   #7
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Great pics, thanks for sharing. It shows just how simple this mod really is!
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:34 PM   #8
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Go for it! The hardest part was trimming the rubber with a utility knife! Once I figured out how to postion the puller the bushing came out very easy!
Bottom line is to buy new utility blades then it's much easier, I actually enjoyed doing mine.
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Old 10-26-2011, 03:32 PM   #9
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There is an easier way. Take a tire bar and a 1/4 drive socket. Pry against the control arm bolt in the hub against the socket / trailing arm bush. It is out in seconds. That technique may be best left to the Pedders professionals Your method is creative and worked well!
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:56 PM   #10
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Bottom line is to buy new utility blades then it's much easier, I actually enjoyed doing mine.
Yea, I went through 2 or 3 blades! That rubber is tough stuff!
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:59 PM   #11
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There is an easier way. Take a tire bar and a 1/4 drive socket. Pry against the control arm bolt in the hub against the socket / trailing arm bush. It is out in seconds. That technique may be best left to the Pedders professionals Your method is creative and worked well!
Thanks Pete! A little late now though, lol! I thought it would be a lot tougher than it was and yea I coulda just pry'd it out like you say! Now we know!
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:18 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
There is an easier way. Take a tire bar and a 1/4 drive socket. Pry against the control arm bolt in the hub against the socket / trailing arm bush. It is out in seconds. That technique may be best left to the Pedders professionals Your method is creative and worked well!
Got any pics of this method for mechanically/visually challenged people like me? Me like pictures....
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:49 PM   #13
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Got any pics of this method for mechanically/visually challenged people like me? Me like pictures....
we take this stuff as common knowledge. The next time I am at an install we'll take some pics or vids.
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Old 12-09-2011, 01:34 PM   #14
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we take this stuff as common knowledge. The next time I am at an install we'll take some pics or vids.
Have you done one yet? Sure like to see a video?
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Old 12-09-2011, 02:18 PM   #15
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what did you replace it with??
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Old 12-09-2011, 02:31 PM   #16
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what did you replace it with??
This: http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=460
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Old 12-09-2011, 02:34 PM   #17
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Have you done one yet? Sure like to see a video?
I'll be at ARD in Houston tomorrow and we'll shoot a video
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:59 AM   #18
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we take this stuff as common knowledge. The next time I am at an install we'll take some pics or vids.
Coming from a suspension specialist, I can imagine.

Video would be even better. I like to do things myself, but I just like knowing what I'm up against so I don't get past the point of no return and end up messing something up costing me more.
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:13 PM   #19
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Instead of starting a new thread and since a search turned up fruitless....

Did you replace your diff bushings and would a two prong puller work on them?
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:00 PM   #20
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Instead of starting a new thread and since a search turned up fruitless....

Did you replace your diff bushings and would a two prong puller work on them?
No I didn't change the did bushings. Maybe Pete can answer your question!
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:14 PM   #21
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I'm hoping he might pop in here. I was also wondering if I could get the cradle bushings out with a hydraulic puller like this...? Any thoughts?
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:33 PM   #22
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You might be able to get the Subframe Bushings out with that tool. In our experience since the subframe bushings are much larger than the diff bushings they're easier to get out with a sawzall.

Cut pie shaped wedges into the bushing material, then collapse the bushing onto it's self and pull it out!
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:06 PM   #23
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You might be able to get the Subframe Bushings out with that tool. In our experience since the subframe bushings are much larger than the diff bushings they're easier to get out with a sawzall.

Cut pie shaped wedges into the bushing material, then collapse the bushing onto it's self and pull it out!
Thanks for the response. How hard is it to do full bushing replacements with only lowering the cradle and not fully removing it? I can't seem to get a clear answer on this, most people who keep the cradle in are only doing the inserts.
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:43 PM   #24
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Thanks for the response. How hard is it to do full bushing replacements with only lowering the cradle and not fully removing it? I can't seem to get a clear answer on this, most people who keep the cradle in are only doing the inserts.
People do it but it's kind of a 50/50 mix as to which way is easier. While there is much more labor involved in removing the entire cradle, laying on your back under the cradle sawing through 4 bushings isn't really much fun either. A 3-jaw puller just won't work for this application unfortunately. The outer sleeve of the OE bushings is plastic so trying to push or pull the bushing just distorts it, making it even more difficult to remove.

There is really only one option for the home installer that works all of the time. Force the sawzall blade through the voids in the rubber then saw outward until you cut through the outer sleeve. If this is done twice per bushing you can then knock the bushing out with a hammer.

If the cradle is removed I have also been able to cut off the exposed part of the bushing on top flush with the cradle then drive the bushing out of the cradle. This requires more hammer effort and larger swings which wouldn't be possible with the cradle still in the car. Please take note that you have to cut off the exposed section on top first. Attempting to drive it out without removing the exposed section will mushroom that part of the bushing, making it impossible to knock it through the cradle.

Neither is a fun process unfortunately but is definitely worth it in the end.
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:53 PM   #25
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Thanks for the response. How hard is it to do full bushing replacements with only lowering the cradle and not fully removing it? I can't seem to get a clear answer on this, most people who keep the cradle in are only doing the inserts.
We would definitely recommend fully removing the subframe, the whole process is a whole lot easier with a lift and proper tools... but we've talked to quite a few home installers that have done it on their own with jackstands and hand tools.

As far as removal goes, it's pretty much exactly what BMR said. Cut out some inner material and bang them out.

Considering that it's a good amount of work to get the old bushings out we strongly suggest you make it worth your while and do it right the first time with a proper Solid Subframe Mount.
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