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Old 10-22-2011, 01:05 PM   #1
ssmike
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DIY, trailing arms outer bushing removal

I just did the outer trailing arm bushing removals on my '10 SS! Here we go:

1) Jack up rear end and remove wheels. I used 2 jack stands, 1 on each side ahead of the wheel well.
2) Using an 18mm socket and open end wrench remove the outer trailing arm bolt form the lower control arm.
3) Using a fresh blade in a utility knife remove the outer portion of rubber on both sides so the bushing will slide though and there's room for the puller to secure itself on the metal. This IMO is the hardest part of the whole proccess! It's a real PITA!
4) Obtain a 2 arm 3 1/2" reach puller. Either rent from Autozone (or your favorite auto parts store) or buy one. Autozone has fee rental so that's what I did!
5) Use a 3/8" washer and nut on the end of the puller to push on the bushing during removal
6) Install the puller onto the bushing so it pushes the bushing out toward the front of the car. It's a tight fit but it will work if you're carefull!
7) Start tightening the puller and watch the bushing come out like butta!
8) DONE!

Here's some pics!
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:23 PM   #2
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Nice work looks like fun, what did you replace it with? Did it help the handling?
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Old 10-22-2011, 02:29 PM   #3
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I'll be installing BMR bushings on Monday when they arrive! I already have BMR trailing arms but I didn't know about having to replace the bushings too! I'll let you know how they work after a couple burn outs! Hopefully no more wheel hop!
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:23 PM   #4
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hey I will be doing this as well after income tax... post some pix up of the install please
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:01 PM   #5
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Thanks for your post. I took your puller idea and used it to install my Granatelli trailing arms and BMR outer bushings and it worked like a champ. I honestly expected the puller to pop off of the mounting bracket since I had to crank so hard on the puller bolt to move the bushing, but it didn't. Like you said: comes out like butta!
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:11 PM   #6
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Thanks for the pics!
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:49 AM   #7
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nice write up, this is my next mod as well!
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:50 AM   #8
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Nice
And Tuffy's Auto in Fort Myers charges $450.00 to remove that bushing.
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:16 PM   #9
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lifesaver

Thank you very much ssmike, your tip to use the two-claw puller saved me a lot of frustration! I ordered the tool sold by PHADT that was just for pulling that bushing and it didn't work at all! It would have required removal of the entire control arm to allow enough room. Your way cost less than a dollar at Lowe's for the washer and nut!

As for the benefit of the trailing arm upgrade, I highly recommend it! I did this along with a chassis brace from Hotchkis and wheel hop during hard launching has completely been eliminated! I hope to try out both on a autocross or road course soon!
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:27 PM   #10
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I did mine the hard way. With some thread stock, a hole cutter and some washers and nuts.

Got it on video with no blood.

I like your way MUCH better.
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:21 AM   #11
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I used a propane torch and burned those two out. Great idea.

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Old 03-10-2013, 12:23 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc View Post
I used a propane torch and burned those two out. Great idea.

I remember that.
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:37 PM   #13
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Hmmm I've got a set of BMR bushings sitting on my desk that I never installed with the trailing arms because it looked like it would be more of a PITA than it would be worth vs the benefit of installing them. Perhaps I will consider this...
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:16 PM   #14
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I definitely want to try this; do you need a press or any specialty tool to get the new bushing in?
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