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Old 03-28-2013, 09:58 PM   #1
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RWHP Question/ Gauge-Boost Question. Is my tune right?

So I just came back from tuning my Camaro SS L99 at Lethal Performance San Antonio. I installed the TVS 2300. I also have LG 1 7/8 headers, ported throttle body and no cats, factory air box with 22'' rims. My numbers came out to be 449 rwhp.475 torque. From what I have been reading I see people with the same setup has I got with 490-505 range with an automatic and 550 with the manuals. I don't think my dyno numbers should have been that low. I do feel the difference of power of course but could I be missing out on more power. They also installed my gauges as well and didn't really explain them to me but when was on cruise control the gauges would go up and down, especially the boost. I was also checking my gas mpg and it was 16mpg, I know some people are getting 23 mpg. I would really like yalls guys input to see if Im messing something.
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:12 PM   #2
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Your top gauge is you Air fuel ratio AFR. Gauge that's probly. the one you see fluctuating and is normal.Just watch it while under boost to make sure u arent going lean The lower gauge is boost it reads vacuum and boost the -4 In the pic is vaccum. Anything over 0 is boost
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:15 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Adadda View Post
Your top gauge is you Air fuel ratio AFR. Gauge that's probly. the one you see fluctuating and is normal.Just watch it while under boost to make sure u arent going lean The lower gauge is boost it reads vacuum and boost the -4 In the pic is vaccum. Anything over 0 is boost
What about all the mods I got. Is the rwhp accurate?
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:21 PM   #4
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Looks pretty good did they tell u how much boost. Or give u a copy of the dyno. Remember
People get hung up on numbers on a dyno but at the end of the day its just a tool and you are L99. So the With the A6 thise numbers look ok
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:26 PM   #5
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My guess is the factory air box and 22s are killing it. Look into a cai. As for the rims I can't say my I love my 22s and just cranked the boost till I hit my goal of 600.
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:43 PM   #6
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He said I was around 5lbs boost. I didn't pulley down. I didn't know my boost would go down with headers. But I know I need to get a Cai, put my factory wheels on, and pulley down. Maybe that would get me around 500rwhp
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:52 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Adadda View Post
Your top gauge is you Air fuel ratio AFR. Gauge that's probly. the one you see fluctuating and is normal.Just watch it while under boost to make sure u arent going lean The lower gauge is boost it reads vacuum and boost the -4 In the pic is vaccum. Anything over 0 is boost
How would I know if I am going lean? Thanks in advance
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:06 PM   #8
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You should be around 11.5 AFR at WOT. If you see AFR of 12.5 and higher, you should have them look at the tune again.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:09 PM   #9
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Ok, I will have to give it a shot and see what it shows lol ha ha. Thanks for the info. I appreciate it
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:26 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by lincoln361 View Post
He said I was around 5lbs boost. I didn't pulley down. I didn't know my boost would go down with headers. But I know I need to get a Cai, put my factory wheels on, and pulley down. Maybe that would get me around 500rwhp
I made 498 rwh with just stock ls3 with maggie. 608 with lt headers and OD cog drive and rotofab intake.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:28 PM   #11
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I made 498 rwh with just stock ls3 with maggie. 608 with lt headers and OD cog drive and rotofab intake.
Did you have the mess with the fuel injectors or anything. If you have the od cog drive, did you change out any other pulleys?
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:18 AM   #12
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TTT
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:42 AM   #13
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Those numbers look fine for what you have done. As another member said, a dyno number is just a tool. There are so many variables from ambient temp, humidity, baro pressure. So don't worry about a dyno sheet.

The things to keep an eye on are Air Fuel Ratios. And by seeing how low your gas Milage is I would say you are running rich, not lean. They probably did a conservative tune for you.

What injectors do you have? If you are still on stock injectors, you will way yo upgrade them to at least 52lbs if you want to go over 500whp. Also look into a ZL1 fuel pump and ADM FPCM. When it comes to boost the last thing you want to lack on is your fuel system.

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:43 AM   #14
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sorry my phone freaked out and posted twice lol
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:00 AM   #15
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Those numbers look fine for what you have done. As another member said, a dyno number is just a tool. There are so many variables from ambient temp, humidity, baro pressure. So don't worry about a dyno sheet.

The things to keep an eye on are Air Fuel Ratios. And by seeing how low your gas Milage is I would say you are running rich, not lean. They probably did a conservative tune for you.

What injectors do you have? If you are still on stock injectors, you will way yo upgrade them to at least 52lbs if you want to go over 500whp. Also look into a ZL1 fuel pump and ADM FPCM. When it comes to boost the last thing you want to lack on is your fuel system.

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.
I used the injectors that came with the supercharger and I believe those are the 52lb injectors. The tuner said I still had room to play with those as well. So do I still got to upgrade them since I got the 52lb injectors like you said. Also, what is a good CAI when using a supercharger. I see a lot of people using the Rotofab with the adm scoop. Would I still need the zl1 fuel pump and what is the ADM FPCM? is that the boost a pump? Thanks for replying
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Old 03-29-2013, 05:31 PM   #16
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You should be good with the 52lb injectors for now. I have a Turbo setup so I never used an intake, but I hear good things about the rotofab/air scoop combo.

As far as the fuel pump. Its not needed. But I feel if you are going to spend $250-300 on a BAP.. why not upgrade to the fuel pump as well.

I am running 10psi of boost with a stock fuel pump as of now with a BAP. And its fine. But I have a ZL1 fuel pump sitting on my table ready to go on. Wish it was out when I first did my Turbo kit.

The ADM FPCM( Fuel Pressure Control Module) is a replacemt computer to control the fuel pump that ADM designed. Because just dropping the fuel pump in without this piece wasn't working at its best. So on a sense its a properly tuned BAP that replaces your stock FPCM.

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:18 PM   #17
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dont watch the guages too much they will drive you nuts or make you crash lol
the air fuel should stand straight on WOT somewhere between 11.5 and 12.5 but steady ... thats the only time "glance" at it. 14 to 15 while cruising but no need to watch it then. low numbers are rich high numbers are lean.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:58 PM   #18
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Did you have the mess with the fuel injectors or anything. If you have the od cog drive, did you change out any other pulleys?
stock 3.8 pulley, injectors that came with the maggie and a zl1 fuel pump, no module. Duty cycle was @ 95% so in putting in 850's before i put on ported throttle body and 3.6 pulley. Should be 650 ish. Best bang for the bck is the OD cog and zl1 pump-whole nother animal!
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:05 PM   #19
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What brand and type of dyno? 450 on a mustang dyno is probably ~500rwhp on a dynojet. Don't get caught up on numbers.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:06 PM   #20
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stock 3.8 pulley, injectors that came with the maggie and a zl1 fuel pump, no module. Duty cycle was @ 95% so in putting in 850's before i put on ported throttle body and 3.6 pulley. Should be 650 ish. Best bang for the bck is the OD cog and zl1 pump-whole nother animal!
The ZL1 pump isn't worth anything without the FPCM to make it work to its full capacity. It's less than $500 to get both.

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Old 04-11-2013, 12:59 AM   #21
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He said I was around 5lbs boost. I didn't pulley down. I didn't know my boost would go down with headers. But I know I need to get a Cai, put my factory wheels on, and pulley down. Maybe that would get me around 500rwhp

Thats pretty low boost. Certainly a very safe level of boost for the L99. Most of the L99s I know of running the 2300 are running 8-9 lbs and getting into that 500-550 rwhp range.

I would get a better breathing intake for sure. That right three may add 20 hp. You may also want to repulley just to get boost up a bit more. 5 lbs sounds low for even the stock pulley.
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:33 AM   #22
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Yeah i am thinking a Rotofab Cai with the adm scoop. Im not sure wether to get a smaller size pulley maybe a 3.6 or get the OD Cog drive. I just put on the 1:1 cog drive so i can here the whine, i dont think i want to take that out. But changing out the pulley would be just as good right? Plus i had 22s while i was on the dyno so i know that hurt my numbers as well. Thanks for your response

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Thats pretty low boost. Certainly a very safe level of boost for the L99. Most of the L99s I know of running the 2300 are running 8-9 lbs and getting into that 500-550 rwhp range.

I would get a better breathing intake for sure. That right three may add 20 hp. You may also want to repulley just to get boost up a bit more. 5 lbs sounds low for even the stock pulley.
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:35 AM   #23
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What brand and type of dyno? 450 on a mustang dyno is probably ~500rwhp on a dynojet. Don't get caught up on numbers.

I believe it was a dynojet. Im not to caught up on the numbers, just want to know that i am getting the same hp with everything i got. Everything with the next modifications i get, it will help out. Thanks
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:45 PM   #24
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Just realize if you change CAI, pulley, OD cog...you gotta tune again
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:25 PM   #25
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Just realize if you change CAI, pulley, OD cog...you gotta tune again
If I change out the CAI intake, I don't think that I need to get a retune right? I know if I change out the pulley or the OD cog than I would have to get a retune.
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