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Cosmetic Maintenance: Washing, Waxing, Detailing, Bodywork, Protection Anything related to keeping your Camaro clean and in good cosmetic condition.

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Old 04-15-2009, 06:17 PM   #1
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Preventing Swirls!

We have a new Camaro on the way with the Cyber Metallic finish. I'll be the one keeping it nice and clean. I've been washing and waxing my cars for a while now, but I want to know how do you prevent swirling?

I dread the first wash and wax I do to the new Camaro, for the fear of swirling.
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Old 04-19-2009, 06:38 AM   #2
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There is a product made by 3M the number is 5990. I had a new 1990 Mustang. Sold it when it was ten years old. It had never been waxed and still looked new. It had 125,000 miles on it and the only thing ever used on it was 5990. It's cheap and does the job. Regardless of what you use do not rub to hard
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Old 04-19-2009, 06:43 AM   #3
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There is a product made by 3M the number is 5990. I had a new 1990 Mustang. Sold it when it was ten years old. It had never been waxed and still looked new. It had 125,000 miles on it and the only thing ever used on it was 5990. It's cheap and does the job. Regardless of what you use do not rub to hard
How do you use this product? Are there any video's or online tutorials?
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Old 04-19-2009, 06:53 AM   #4
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No. 1, in my opinion, Never let the dealer people wash or wax your car. Or at least go lurking around in the new car detail area and watch what they do.

Use a 2 bucket method to wash it. One with soap and another with clear water. Always rinse the wash mitt in the clear water before dousing into the soap. Buy a good wash mitt not the el cheap's found at many discount stores.

I prefer Mother's Products as I find them of consistent quality. My CTS has a $995 optional paint (Blue Diamond) and when I used Mothers I swear the finish improved 100%.
Btw-I insisted my salesman make sure my car was not touched, he said he complied with my wishes and ran it thru a touch-less car wash instead of having his goons wash it.



Mothers Detail Guide
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Old 04-19-2009, 09:00 AM   #5
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How do you use this product? Are there any video's or online tutorials?

3M 5990 is just a glaze. It doesn't really remove swirls, it just hides them.

1) Swirl marks will happen. They can be reduced by methods described above. Always wash your car by hand and try to keep the washing materials as clean as possible. Use only quality real cotton cloths or tested microfiber cloths.

2) You will eventually get swirl marks. If you want to remove them, use the following 3M products that actually remove them and not just hide them:


Apply it with a setup like this for optimal results:


3) Protect your finish with a high quality protectant and polish, such as the Zaino system.

.
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Old 05-04-2009, 02:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTS View Post
No. 1, in my opinion, Never let the dealer people wash or wax your car. Or at least go lurking around in the new car detail area and watch what they do.

Use a 2 bucket method to wash it. One with soap and another with clear water. Always rinse the wash mitt in the clear water before dousing into the soap. Buy a good wash mitt not the el cheap's found at many discount stores.

I prefer Mother's Products as I find them of consistent quality. My CTS has a $995 optional paint (Blue Diamond) and when I used Mothers I swear the finish improved 100%.
Btw-I insisted my salesman make sure my car was not touched, he said he complied with my wishes and ran it thru a touch-less car wash instead of having his goons wash it.



Mothers Detail Guide

I totally agree.

I use an ultra soft wool mit, and a very soapy solution. I make sure the mit is washed after every use. I use clear water to rinse the mit in between.

I use Meguiar's NXT 2.0. It's around $14 per bottle, and it makes the car look wet after you're done! The results are awesome on dark cars. I use cloth diapers to remove the wax. I also use a 3M finishing spray to wipe the car down in between waxes. To knock the dust off, I use a California Duster.

I use a Mother's Powerball and polish on the wheels and it works really well for me.

Most scratches in the clear are caused by dirty mits, or dirty chamois used to dry the car. Of course make sure to keep people away from your car if it's dusty. Running a finger across a dusty car is just as bad.

~Brian
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Old 05-04-2009, 03:21 PM   #7
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Your Camaro's paint should be in pretty good shape to begin with.

In order to prevent swirls, it's very important to use only a high quality wash mitt, high quality towels, both for polishing and drying.

I'd recommend a separate wash mitt for the lower sections of the car, and maybe even the wheels...never use the wash mitt that you wash the lower sections of the car with to touch the hood, roof, trunk, doors, etc...

Invest in a good quality wax/polish.

Never use an automated car wash.

And a good rule of thumb; the more you wash, wax/polish, re; "touch" the surface of the paint, the more chance of creating blemishes. So, wash when necessary as well as polish when necessay, but don't overdo it.

Just take your time when washing, waxing/polishing, use good quality products, and take the extra steps necessary, and you'll be just fine.
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Old 05-04-2009, 03:32 PM   #8
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Don't swirl during washing and waxing (wax on wax off method like from the Karate Kid movie). Instead, use front to back motions for horizontal body sections and use top to bottom strokes for vertical sections. Don't rub back and forth either, instead when you finish the stroke/wipe, lift up the cloth, check for debris, and move it back to the front or top and repeat.

Use 100% cotton (Made in USA) towels or something equally soft and apply only light pressure. Keeping a good coat of polish on the paint helps too. Even following all this advice though, you're still going to get some fine scratches and swirls, but the goal is minimize it and help keep them hidden.

The darker the paint the more visible these fine swirls and scratches become and the more care you will have to take. Black shows them the worst, but damn it looks sexy when clean and shiny =)
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Old 05-19-2009, 10:22 PM   #9
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Not sure if anyone is looking for a source for detailing products. These folks are friendly and always ready to help.
http://www.topoftheline.com/index.html
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Old 05-20-2009, 07:13 AM   #10
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http://www.dftowel.com/video.html

how to for car washing
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:10 AM   #11
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I would listen to moose, All i would add to be more specific is that when waxing use only microfiber cloth to remove the wax. When drying get a smart brite shamois, they seem to be the best at drying and softness (Detailking.com). and avoid avoid avoid automatic car washes. You should not have to polish/buff this car to remove any serious swirl marks for at least 5 yrs.
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:15 AM   #12
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Oh and that 5990 or 90 as we used to call it in the body shop is just a glaze, it works similar to wax but has no silicone this is why body shops use it, to prevent fish eyes in the paint. this glaze will discipate after one wash or even a hard rain. This glaze is used as a wax over brand new paint.
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:43 AM   #13
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When your cars rolls off the line or unloaded from the truck take it to Ziebart for the Diamond Gloss Coating, that helps alot when it comes to swirls. That 3M stuff listed above is the real deal
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Old 05-27-2009, 12:19 PM   #14
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Why do people insist that microfiber is good for paint ?
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Old 05-30-2009, 08:43 AM   #15
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Why do people insist that microfiber is good for paint ?
From personal experience with my black 68 that never gets washed, only quick detailed, they are the best option for lifting dust and dirt off the paint so the pores of the microfiber can grab it and hold it without dropping in on another part of the car. I can typically wipe down the whole car with 2 11x17s in 10-15 minutes.

I would also add that to help in the swirl mark question, whatever product you apply, especially on a dark car, use a back and forth application and reverse it 90 degrees for removal. This will help to also fill in those fine swirls and reduce their noticeability. I like to apply a coat of Zymol, not Zaino, to my 68 in one direction and then add a layer of Meguiars in the opposite direction. I get asked all the time how I don't have scratches and swirls. It takes a little more effort, but with the investment we have in these cars, it's well worth the time and pride you feel when people compliment it.
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:47 PM   #16
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I just watched a guy the other day use his wash mop for his floors on his 40k acadia. I was asking him how he thought about his car and it was killing me watching him do this to his vehicle. He used no soap at all just spraying it down with water and this nasty dirty old mop. I felt like being being a smart azz and telling him just use some sandpaper for crying out loud. Unbelievable....
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:52 PM   #17
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Old 05-30-2009, 08:12 PM   #18
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always go one way when you wash and dry, use clean applicators. Microfibers are great these days.
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Old 05-30-2009, 08:28 PM   #19
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The key to a paint job lasting is simple. LESS INTERACTION ..............>LESS SCRATCHES. If you cannot garage the car this gets harder, but the less you wash the car the better. After 2 and 1/2 years with my SKY I still have not a single swirl mark! The car has been in the rain 3 times and washed about 10 in over 2 years.....that is it!!

Here are the KEY Rules I follow:

1 - Wash as little as possible
2 - Every time I pull the car in the garage, I wipe down the car with a Clean Microfibre and Detail spray and throw a super soft car cover over it.
3 - NEVER wipe the car down once it rains, you must wash off the minerals with fresh water
4 - If you have hard water (lots of mineral) use a water softener in line on your hose (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...rrivals&page=1 sells them)
5 - Don't be cheap, once your Microfibre even starts to show a spec of dirt TOSS THEM IN THE CAN (Washing them only removes the surface dirt)
6 - Never use a dry chamois, Wet the chamois and give it a minute to absorb then ring it out and use it
7 - NEVER DRY WIPE THE CAR!!
8 - NEVER USE A CALIFORNIA DUSTER!!!
9 - NEVER OVER USE POLISHES or WAXES WITH POLISHES, it removes too much clear coat for a regular use. Should only polish once a year!
10 - Should only use a BUFFER or WHEEL once every few years for the same reason as above
11 - Do not store the car out in the elements if possible
12 - Do not store the car in direct Sunlight if possible

I love when people say to wheel or use a buffer on paint, this takes a thin layer of clear off, and should not be done more than once every 3-5 years MAX!! Ask any body guy. Unless you plan on re-clearing the car every ten years.

If you follow all of the above, you will not get swirl marks, especially changing MicroFibre cloths often. I Cycle Mine to many steps. Here is what one of my MicroFibre cloths goes through:

1 - Paint Use (wether wash, wax, polish, detail spray)
2 - Chrome Rims Use
3 - In door jams and under hood and trunk
4 - Plastic wiping
5 - Engine compartment wipe
6 - Wheel Wheels and tires
7 - Inside of Exhaust Tips
8 - Garbage

Every Micro Fibre cycles through these uses. I use top of the line products from ADAMS.. The best cloths on the market.....BAR NONE!!!

http://www.adamspolishes.com/c-5-mic...-products.aspx
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Old 05-31-2009, 01:06 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Xmicro_SS View Post
The key to a paint job lasting is simple. LESS INTERACTION ..............>LESS SCRATCHES. If you cannot garage the car this gets harder, but the less you wash the car the better. After 2 and 1/2 years with my SKY I still have not a single swirl mark! The car has been in the rain 3 times and washed about 10 in over 2 years.....that is it!!

Here are the KEY Rules I follow:

1 - Wash as little as possible
2 - Every time I pull the car in the garage, I wipe down the car with a Clean Microfibre and Detail spray and throw a super soft car cover over it.
3 - NEVER wipe the car down once it rains, you must wash off the minerals with fresh water
4 - If you have hard water (lots of mineral) use a water softener in line on your hose (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...rrivals&page=1 sells them)
5 - Don't be cheap, once your Microfibre even starts to show a spec of dirt TOSS THEM IN THE CAN (Washing them only removes the surface dirt)
6 - Never use a dry chamois, Wet the chamois and give it a minute to absorb then ring it out and use it
7 - NEVER DRY WIPE THE CAR!!
8 - NEVER USE A CALIFORNIA DUSTER!!!
9 - NEVER OVER USE POLISHES or WAXES WITH POLISHES, it removes too much clear coat for a regular use. Should only polish once a year!
10 - Should only use a BUFFER or WHEEL once every few years for the same reason as above
11 - Do not store the car out in the elements if possible
12 - Do not store the car in direct Sunlight if possible

I love when people say to wheel or use a buffer on paint, this takes a thin layer of clear off, and should not be done more than once every 3-5 years MAX!! Ask any body guy. Unless you plan on re-clearing the car every ten years.

If you follow all of the above, you will not get swirl marks, especially changing MicroFibre cloths often. I Cycle Mine to many steps. Here is what one of my MicroFibre cloths goes through:

1 - Paint Use (wether wash, wax, polish, detail spray)
2 - Chrome Rims Use
3 - In door jams and under hood and trunk
4 - Plastic wiping
5 - Engine compartment wipe
6 - Wheel Wheels and tires
7 - Inside of Exhaust Tips
8 - Garbage

Every Micro Fibre cycles through these uses. I use top of the line products from ADAMS.. The best cloths on the market.....BAR NONE!!!

http://www.adamspolishes.com/c-5-mic...-products.aspx

I have to respectfully disagree with how often you can safely buff a car. Depending on how agressive you get with the clear, you can polish many many times safely. Buffing takes off a lot less than you think it does.
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Old 05-31-2009, 03:06 AM   #21
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I have to respectfully disagree with how often you can safely buff a car. Depending on how agressive you get with the clear, you can polish many many times safely. Buffing takes off a lot less than you think it does.
Depending on the polish you use, there are many grades of polish if you are using professional grade product. Most people are not knowledgeable enough or experienced enough to do it right or pick the right material to use. If left to a pro, maybe a bit more often, but not every couple of months like some do. And if you do the rest of the stuff I suggested, you would not need to. People do not realize that a lot of times their local water will cause many problems.......Hard water is brutal on a paint job, especially if it left to dry on its own or done in the sun!
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:34 AM   #22
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yeah i wouldnt be wiping anything down either everytime i take in the garage especially after not washing it. You got some other good ideas though
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Old 05-31-2009, 11:37 AM   #23
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Depending on the polish you use, there are many grades of polish if you are using professional grade product. Most people are not knowledgeable enough or experienced enough to do it right or pick the right material to use. If left to a pro, maybe a bit more often, but not every couple of months like some do. And if you do the rest of the stuff I suggested, you would not need to. People do not realize that a lot of times their local water will cause many problems.......Hard water is brutal on a paint job, especially if it left to dry on its own or done in the sun!
True enough. However, you may want to pick up a paint depth gauge and see just how much you remove even with heavy compounds, the results may suprise you. A rotary and wool pad have a lot of cut and I wouldn't recommend frequently. However, a light pad on the pc is safe to do somewhat frequently (ie with a light polish like Menzerna 106FA or PO85RD)
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:43 PM   #24
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What would be recommended to use on the polished aluminum wheels?
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Old 06-01-2009, 03:02 AM   #25
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What would be recommended to use on the polished aluminum wheels?
that depends.... Are they bare aluminum? Or are they clearcoated (most these days are)?
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