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Old 03-19-2017, 09:26 AM   #1
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New lifters and Pushrod?

I was planning on installing assembly lube on the lifters, pushrods and valve tips. I have read that some say to clean the lifters with mineral spirts and then soak lifters in oil overnight.Is this necessary ?Also if the lifter has no oil in it will it affect my measuring for pushrod lenght as the plunger could bottom out easily?

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Old 03-19-2017, 10:44 AM   #2
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You want the lifter to be pumped up in effect measuring for height of pushrod so yes soaking it in oil as with the pushrods getting oil on them is all I ever did on a good old Chevy BBC/SBC , your going from zero lash /preload to the desired range of preload via the calculation that one turn = .047 via the movement of the nut ;and then those that are smart KNOW; via rocker arm ratio its actual movement is to the .070 area so one turn in a way equals the lash a LS7 takes with the same rocker but for most that's a little tight and noisy...
I know mines tight and noisy then goes quieter when loosened up HOT that for me in case I go all high rev crazy some day...LOL And the best norm I could find for the same lifter on a LS3 is the .045 range with .030 being low and .060 high but many do end up with thinking they are setting it to higher when they are not using the formula for the rockers ratio and then....YES they over tighten and set it way too much as trying to get to .075 lash for a ls7 head with 1.8 rockers is set with its own ratio on the ls7 head....

ON a ls3 consider this one turn equals .047 in movement of the nut so the fulcrum that rocker is makes that translate into around .070 that means many think I am at the mid range for a ls3 with one turn when actually they tighten and set to .070 area and if they go for more than a turn well they are risking bottoming out the spring in the cup that is the hydraulic lifter hurting the lifter, the cam, and the rocker and pushrod.

Over the years I have seen cam failures on here, and the chicken or the egg coming first is almost always the question, I just thought I would share this big time fail that has happened over and over...Not using the correct math to translate the rockers movement on the stud into vertical movement on the actual rocker tip via its ratio.
I AM SURE HAS BEEN BLAMED FOR FAILURES OF THE CAM repeatedly but then again I am the guy who breaks in his cam with BR30 from driven racing oil.

SO...if for example a guy who thought he was turning a nut and getting to .070 range for tighter preload for higher revs and less valve float install his own cam then tightens the about the 1 1/2 ish turn area he has set his preload more in the .100 range and sure the engine will turn still with more resistance the plunger travels so much farther and there is plunger travel distance info out there and this is too far for a stock ls3/7 lifter and they are doomed to trash the lifter stress the pushrod, rocker and shock the cam eventually when the plunger fails....

And then which came first the roller falling off, the rocker breaking, the cam surface getting roller tracks and loosing material from being hammered and never even a good break in oil...what came first was reading Robert Ways install and not being here to know he had trouble calculating out his preload and the info on the desired preload was vague out there......let alone understanding the formula and the actual movement of a rocker and the effect of the ratio that should have been included in the self install to actually tell people one great big fat important fact that can ruin a engine.

Smear the goop on the cam lobes and oil the other....old school way as clogging things with goop is not good, then you break it in and dump the oil then you break it in some more...It always worked for me engine after engine that and ZDDP etc....

And different lifters use different preload say if your going Johnson or Morrels or etc...

And step number one.......PRE OIL!!!!! If your not turning for a while oil pressure on a already lubed up cam its a big difference in wear compared too; on every surface as in the stock crank bearings the connecting rods the pistons rings etc

I always prelubed every stock engine after rebuild using a tool to make the oil pump turn on old SBC/BBC its was easy you just got a old distributor and made your own and its stuck down in the distributors hole in the intake and you ran a drill to turn the oil pump until you saw oil coming out the push rods. How they turn the crank on pre-oiling some one here should be able to tell you.....

Not into cleaning with mineral spirits more of a oil bath cleaning.. LOL some may get scummy lifters of some type from the factory though some where...... for this recommended step most say as in there are 10 butt zillion made for everything everywhere doubtless some are coming from Shanghai or who knows or people using scummy used lifters also. Just thought I would share some of the stuff I know being a old motor head on here for years.... And yes I use a pro to do my engine...LOL I don't have a garage anymore just a dang car port.. And this may be the most important post I have had to repeatedly do on here to warn the sky is falling when it actually is and its ignored more than say our National debt... Good Luck to you!!!! And maybe you can not be one of those posts....... engine destroyed, Kooter cant figure out what happened....
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Last edited by christianchevell; 03-19-2017 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 03-19-2017, 12:57 PM   #3
Russell James

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With a new valve train, use a good break in oil. Soak the lifters and rockers in the same oil. Assembly lube on PR ends, rocker/stem tips. I don't put assembly grease on a roller cam.

Buy a PR length checker tool, such as the Comp Cams one. Follow the directions it comes with. First call the lifter company and find out the perfect preload. The directions it comes with are perfect, all else opinions.

Buy an engine preluber. Jegs has a nice one. Get the adapters so there will be options where to plug it into. The LS block has a galley plug up front that can be used. Prelubing is the way to go. Leave the spark plugs out, valve covers off. Turn the engine over by hand by the crank bolt and watch oil flowing up top out of the PRs.

Buy a service manual so you know all the right torques and procedures. Rocker bolts have a specific sequence, you need the manual.
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