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Old 01-23-2012, 10:05 AM   #171
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Nathan (and 572HP), I want to "clean up" some of my wiring harnesses like you guys did. However, I am not relocating anything, or repositioning anything, I just want to take off the crappy factory electrical tape and wrap it up in the braided sheathing (I'm assuming it is the "painless wiring" braided wire wrap on Summit). I like how you guys used the shrink wrap to secure the ends of the sheathing. My question is, is there any way to do that (use the heat shrink) without cutting the wires. I'm pretty sure that heat shrink tubing is not going fit over some of those big connectors to slide it in position before heating it up. Or is there a way to "de-pin" the connectors? I really just don't want to cut any wires. I suppose if the heat shrink won't work, I could just use zip-ties, but it wouldn't look as nice. Can you give me any tips???

Oh, and that MTI cross-over vapor tube looks killer, I think I might go that route too!!!
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:43 PM   #172
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...anyone aware if the rotofab radiator cover will fit the CAI intake?
Here is a pic of the Roto-fab radiator cover used with a CAI Inductions intake. Like our intake, they use a 6" radius elbow so the contour of the cover matches up nicely.



For those interested, our radiator cover fits with the Hennessey intake...

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Old 01-23-2012, 05:00 PM   #173
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Originally Posted by 572HP View Post
Definitely a big thanks for doing this thread!

Here is what I did yesterday and finished this morning. The driver's side is still left to do. I have cut and spliced/soldered every wire, used shrink tubing and braided sheathing.

Still need to relocate evac solenoid, paint coil packs, and get new coil pack bolts.
Any tips on how to do that? I really would love to do that with those lines since I just got the Holley LS valve covers like that..
PM so we don't clutter!
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:42 PM   #174
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Originally Posted by blazzin1 View Post
I'm pretty sure that heat shrink tubing is not going fit over some of those big connectors to slide it in position before heating it up. Or is there a way to "de-pin" the connectors? I really just don't want to cut any wires. I suppose if the heat shrink won't work, I could just use zip-ties, but it wouldn't look as nice. Can you give me any tips???
Yes you can de-pin the connectors and run the heat shrink over the wire bundles. When doing this I highly recommend taking photos of each connector AND making a diagram on paper. In order to get the wrap or shrink tubing over the larger bundles/splices and spots where multiple connector bundles come together you will have to de-pin multiple connectors at one time. Just take your time and don't remove any wires or pins without being darn sure of where they will go back. Don't rely on a service manual, all-data, mitchell on-demand etc. I have run into multiple instances where they contradict each other or do not match how things were wired from factory. Good luck!

And Nathan, man you got guts cutting that hose in the kitchen, razor blading that granite countertop and putting a vise in there!!!! Things are lookin good though!
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:53 PM   #175
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Yeah, I took the long route. I did cut/splice all of the wires, and I used shrink tubing and solid braided sleeves. I haven't tackled the driver side yet...still recovering from the long weekend. The big reason that I did it this way was because I wanted to get rid of the huge coil-pack connector. The only way to do that is to splice. I can definitely understand not wanting to do that. I took my time and wrote everything down first, and took some pics. Then I got out the cutters and soldering iron. It took me probably 8 or 9 hours to do the passenger side. It isn't difficult, but it does take a lot of leaning over and reaching to the back of the engine.

Maybe it would be possible to use the split-sided braided sleeving and wrap good electrical tape very straight on the ends. I haven't tried it, but it might be a quick way to get that look.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:11 PM   #176
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For people not interested in cutting lines and completely relocating them you might want to check this out. It's a lot nicer, longer lasting, and protective than wire loom and you don't need to cut the harness up. It's the way I'll go when I finish up the upper part of the intake. A bit more money up front but no cutting of wires which is one of my personal goals.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russel...48918/10002/-1


I've also got a couple lines next to the rather large 2" primaries that I plan on wrapping with this but I need to finish all my other projects first before I start buying more stuff.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Thermo-Tec/The...74088/10002/-1

Last edited by Synner; 01-23-2012 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:32 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 572HP View Post
Yeah, I took the long route. I did cut/splice all of the wires, and I used shrink tubing and solid braided sleeves. I haven't tackled the driver side yet...still recovering from the long weekend. The big reason that I did it this way was because I wanted to get rid of the huge coil-pack connector. The only way to do that is to splice. I can definitely understand not wanting to do that. I took my time and wrote everything down first, and took some pics. Then I got out the cutters and soldering iron. It took me probably 8 or 9 hours to do the passenger side. It isn't difficult, but it does take a lot of leaning over and reaching to the back of the engine.

Maybe it would be possible to use the split-sided braided sleeving and wrap good electrical tape very straight on the ends. I haven't tried it, but it might be a quick way to get that look.
Thanks for sharing your experience and advice, I'll definitely take it into consideration when I start my clean-up project.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
For people not interested in cutting lines and completely relocating them you might want to check this out. It's a lot nicer, longer lasting, and protective than wire loom and you don't need to cut the harness up. It's the way I'll go when I finish up the upper part of the intake. A bit more money up front but no cutting of wires which is one of my personal goals.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russel...48918/10002/-1


I've also got a couple lines next to the rather large 2" primaries that I plan on wrapping with this but I need to finish all my other projects first before I start buying more stuff.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Thermo-Tec/The...74088/10002/-1
Thanks for showing this stuff Synner, the Russell Wrap stuff looks very similar to the Painless Wiring Wrap on the Summit Racing website. Looks like really nice stuff. Definitely in my future plans. But I'd still like to secure the ends with some shrink tube if possible.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:33 PM   #178
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Originally Posted by NC-V View Post
Yes you can de-pin the connectors and run the heat shrink over the wire bundles. When doing this I highly recommend taking photos of each connector AND making a diagram on paper. In order to get the wrap or shrink tubing over the larger bundles/splices and spots where multiple connector bundles come together you will have to de-pin multiple connectors at one time. Just take your time and don't remove any wires or pins without being darn sure of where they will go back. Don't rely on a service manual, all-data, mitchell on-demand etc. I have run into multiple instances where they contradict each other or do not match how things were wired from factory. Good luck!

And Nathan, man you got guts cutting that hose in the kitchen, razor blading that granite countertop and putting a vise in there!!!! Things are lookin good though!
Very good advice....thank you!
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:39 PM   #179
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The 3/16" stuff would be good for the small sections with only 2 wires like the coils as an alternative to heat shrink. Like I said my personal preference is to only cut a wire only when absolutely necessary. If there's one thing I hate trouble shooting later its electrical gremlins from a bad splice.

I'd definitely knock the pins out whenever possible. One of these tools and a micro screwdriver set will be your best friends.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/381-...1&zmap=381-087
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:43 PM   #180
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And a weather pack removal tool if you do a lot of car stuff.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PCO-0660PT

Last edited by Synner; 01-23-2012 at 10:26 PM.
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:02 PM   #181
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Man! a lot of good info on this tread. It's basically becoming what I envision it when I started it. Everybody sharing ideas were we can all learn from each other.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blazzin1 View Post
Nathan (and 572HP), I want to "clean up" some of my wiring harnesses like you guys did. However, I am not relocating anything, or repositioning anything, I just want to take off the crappy factory electrical tape and wrap it up in the braided sheathing (I'm assuming it is the "painless wiring" braided wire wrap on Summit). I like how you guys used the shrink wrap to secure the ends of the sheathing. My question is, is there any way to do that (use the heat shrink) without cutting the wires. I'm pretty sure that heat shrink tubing is not going fit over some of those big connectors to slide it in position before heating it up. Or is there a way to "de-pin" the connectors? I really just don't want to cut any wires. I suppose if the heat shrink won't work, I could just use zip-ties, but it wouldn't look as nice. Can you give me any tips???

Oh, and that MTI cross-over vapor tube looks killer, I think I might go that route too!!!
Blazzin, if you don't want to cut the wires, to heat shrink the ends, one option is using this tape. It's specific for harness. It also has less abrasive so it the glue wont ooze out when it gets hot. I put a roll of regular electrical tape so that you can see the difference. It feels and looks more like a cloth braided pattern.I will be using on everything I do.

Also, I think the Russell sheathing might look better with this tape since it has more a fabric look which would match the tape. I actually think I like it more than the Painless stuff I bought. The Painless is more of a nylon braiding. The only reason I didn't go with Russell's is because the largest they had is 3/4" and I wanted 1" for my main harness on the passenger side. Which I finished on Saturday and it looks SWEET! (Pictures to come) I 'm going to order the Russell stuff because I might be able to get away with the 3/4' now that I see how nicely and tight I have it. I'll give you a product review on both when I get it.

Hope that helps.





Quote:
Originally Posted by gl2filmerguy View Post
Any tips on how to do that? I really would love to do that with those lines since I just got the Holley LS valve covers like that..
PM so we don't clutter!
Don't worry about "cluttering" this thread, the only clutter we're worried about is in the compartment

Quote:
Originally Posted by NC-V View Post
Yes you can de-pin the connectors and run the heat shrink over the wire bundles. When doing this I highly recommend taking photos of each connector AND making a diagram on paper. In order to get the wrap or shrink tubing over the larger bundles/splices and spots where multiple connector bundles come together you will have to de-pin multiple connectors at one time. Just take your time and don't remove any wires or pins without being darn sure of where they will go back. Don't rely on a service manual, all-data, mitchell on-demand etc. I have run into multiple instances where they contradict each other or do not match how things were wired from factory. Good luck!

And Nathan, man you got guts cutting that hose in the kitchen, razor blading that granite countertop and putting a vise in there!!!! Things are lookin good though!
LOL, that granite stuff is pretty tough.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 572HP View Post
Yeah, I took the long route. I did cut/splice all of the wires, and I used shrink tubing and solid braided sleeves. I haven't tackled the driver side yet...still recovering from the long weekend. The big reason that I did it this way was because I wanted to get rid of the huge coil-pack connector. The only way to do that is to splice. I can definitely understand not wanting to do that. I took my time and wrote everything down first, and took some pics. Then I got out the cutters and soldering iron. It took me probably 8 or 9 hours to do the passenger side. It isn't difficult, but it does take a lot of leaning over and reaching to the back of the engine.

Maybe it would be possible to use the split-sided braided sleeving and wrap good electrical tape very straight on the ends. I haven't tried it, but it might be a quick way to get that look.
RESPECT 572, it is a lot of work, part of it is figuring it all out as you go. I agree, take your time, lots of pictures and notes, diagrams, etc...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
For people not interested in cutting lines and completely relocating them you might want to check this out. It's a lot nicer, longer lasting, and protective than wire loom and you don't need to cut the harness up. It's the way I'll go when I finish up the upper part of the intake. A bit more money up front but no cutting of wires which is one of my personal goals.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russel...48918/10002/-1


I've also got a couple lines next to the rather large 2" primaries that I plan on wrapping with this but I need to finish all my other projects first before I start buying more stuff.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Thermo-Tec/The...74088/10002/-1
That is some nice stuff, I will be ordering some tomorrow.
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:12 PM   #182
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Nathan, great advice!!! Thanks. Where did you get that fabric harness tape? Who makes it? What's it called?
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:20 PM   #183
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Here are some pictures of the Katech Tensioner before I install it along with the factory unit for comparrison. I didn't weight them but it's at-least half.


I replaced all four bolt with ARP's. The two large one are the factory bolts that mount the unit to the water pump. The other two brass looking ones come with the Katech unit. One goes in goes in the middle of the pulley and the other goes in the rear which is used to lock the pulley in place. I'm Thinking of sending the round center cap on the pulley to get powder coated texture black when I send the intake.







I got these in the mail today along with the tape. In the picture, I removed one of the pieces that comes with it. I also removed the blue piece but I didn't take a picture without it. I can also see were I can take my Dremel and trim them a bit. This will be my injector harness 2.0. I'm planning on running heat shrink boots over them and cover the wires with braiding. I plan on putting a plug at the end of the harness to make it easier to install. I contacted a NASCAR supplier for the shrink boots.

Oh, in case your wondering if they would come off without the other pieces, I did test fit them and on the injectors without the other pieces and they still lock in. The locking megchanism is on the main black pieces.






By the way, I did get a lot of work done on Saturday. (Pics to come) but I took a break on Sunday after church and went hiking with my two brothers and friends, oh and my Dog "Eli". My brothers are the guy kneeling "Justin" and the cool guy standing next to me with the sun glasses "Seth", AKA camera man.

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Old 01-23-2012, 11:38 PM   #184
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Nathan, great advice!!! Thanks. Where did you get that fabric harness tape? Who makes it? What's it called?
Oh, sorry.... http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...tape_51026.jpg

They specialize in harnesses. I spoke with Mike the owner.

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Old 01-24-2012, 08:32 AM   #185
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Or stretch and seal tape. Its silicone and not adhesive based so it only sticks to itself unlike electrical tape.
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:12 AM   #186
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Here are some pictures of the Katech Tensioner before I install it along with the factory unit for comparrison. I didn't weight them but it's at-least half.
That is a very nice tensioner! I hadn't seen it before. Too bad it won't work with a supercharger, or I'd have me one.

I was wondering what the connectors would look like if they were lightly sprayed with black high-temp paint.

I'm trying to find a solution for the whipple intercooler reservoir. It looks terrible, and the placement of it (mounted to the top of the radiator bracket) is horrible. I thought of going with the magnuson reservoir, or some of the moroso or other aluminum tanks. I also want to install my roto-fab radiator cover back! It won't work with the whipple reservoir.

Nathan, can you give us some help of parts needed to do the evac solenoid relocation?
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:45 AM   #187
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That is a very nice tensioner! I hadn't seen it before. Too bad it won't work with a supercharger, or I'd have me one.

I was wondering what the connectors would look like if they were lightly sprayed with black high-temp paint.

I'm trying to find a solution for the whipple intercooler reservoir. It looks terrible, and the placement of it (mounted to the top of the radiator bracket) is horrible. I thought of going with the magnuson reservoir, or some of the moroso or other aluminum tanks. I also want to install my roto-fab radiator cover back! It won't work with the whipple reservoir.

Nathan, can you give us some help of parts needed to do the evac solenoid relocation?
572, moving the EVAC is pretty easy, you can do it for $5.00. The question is how to run the lines with your blower. Please post some pictures of how your hose runs from the EVAC solenoid to the intake. This way I get a better ideas on how to do yours.

Also, post some pictures of the inter-cooler reservoir, that way we can all bounce ideas on possible solutions.
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