Project Cleaning the Clutter in Our Engine Bay

[Kilo-9]

Originally Posted by 572HP

Man, this is some really great stuff! Great work!

Noob question: I have a strut-tower brace (convertible) that I want to replace the bolts with nice looking bolts like ARP. What is the process to determine which ones to buy?

I would take one out and figure out the thread size, pitch, and length...then order appropriately. You could also PM member MS3DALE and ask him what size they are...I believe he ordered polished titanium bolts for his.

[Nathan Moreno]

Originally Posted by 572HP

Man, this is some really great stuff! Great work!

Noob question: I have a strut-tower brace (convertible) that I want to replace the bolts with nice looking bolts like ARP. What is the process to determine which ones to buy?

Originally Posted by Kilo-9

I would take one out and figure out the thread size, pitch, and length...then order appropriately. You could also PM member MS3DALE and ask him what size they are...I believe he ordered polished titanium bolts for his.

What Kilo-9 said. Just in case this is all new to you, it was to me when I first started this project. I didn't know much about "thread, pitch and how to measure.... so just in case..... Bolts have three measurements. "Diameter", either standard or metric. All the bolts I've replace are metric. "Pitch", thats the number of threads per millimeter and "Length".

You can go to Home D, Ace, etc. By the way, I love Ace! They'll have a board with sockets (see pic below), all you do is screw your bolt to the appropriate socket, this will tell you the diameter and pitch. Example: 6MM X 1.5. ( 6MM is the diameter and the 1.5 is the pitch. On the board, it also has were you can measure for length. To determine the length, you want to measure from the bottom of the head to the tip. So you might have a bolt thats 6MM X 1.5 by 30 MM. Next you can call ARP and have them give you a parts number for that size bolt. With the parts number, I call Summit and get a price. They sell individual and packs of five. If you need three of the same, it might be cheaper to buy the five pack. One thing I like about Summit is that if you have to return something, they include a postage paid return label with each of their orders.

Also, you have the two types of heads, Hex and 12 points, every bolt I've gotten have been 12 points. I think they look nicer.

Hope that helps

Oh, thanks for the compliment. It makes taking the time to post on here gratifying. I appreciate that.

[Nathan Moreno]

Originally Posted by blazzin1

Thanks Nathan, but you don't have to do that. I'm good, I just want to make sure I give Stieger a hard time about it though!!!! I thought about doing the same thing to "cdn2usa" when he guessed 1-21-1991, but I thought no, I'll be a good sportsman about it and pick a few months later, just so he still has a good chance too. But I guess our buddy Stieger isn't quite as sporting!!! J/K Stieger! But you should feel guilty!!! Hahahaha!!!

BTW, I have a buffing wheel in my garage, so I can definitely polish my own vapor tube, so it's not a big deal. But thanks for posting up all the pics of what you're doing, I've never even thought about doing half this stuff until your thread came along. Thanks for all the great ideas....keep it up. Whoever convinced you to keep the vacuum hose going to your intake tube must have had a very good reason. You're through a lot just to keep that hose!!! Myself, I got one of SC2150's check valve breathers, and got rid of the hose completely. Works great for me!!!

You ain't kidding, it has been a lot of work.... I did partially explained the reason on post #113.

"I know some folks will put a breather on the valve cover and just do away with the line. But I spoke with Patrick at Vararam, he gave me a thirty minute explanation on how the car loses power when you do that. Also the Katech valve covers don't come with a oil deflectors/baffels, so you'd have oil spilling all over the place. The name of this thread "Project Cleaning the Clutter in Our Engine Bay" would take a whole new meaning, LOL. Even if I could use a breather, once see what I'm doing with the covers, you'll see why I wouldn't want to. Stay tune for that."

Here's what I meant by the last statement on my previous post. Because both valve cover are interchangeable, I'm running what would be the passenger side cover on the driver side. This moves the oil fill cap to the drivers rear side. Giving a cleaner look to the front of the engine. So even if I could run a breather, I wouldn't want to stick it back there. Since part of what influencing my decisions is keeping the compartment as clean and simple as possible. Unfortunately, sometimes what seems simple is LOL. Also, By inverting the cover, I can now run the hose from the valve to the intake out the rear. instead up front.

[Nathan Moreno]

The factory finish on the cylinder head has a bunch of swirls and scratches. Unfortunately,



So, I took 2000 grit paper and ......



I taped up the area



And after some effort.... the heads is still moist from the wet sending inn this picture but it looks really nice now.



Here's a quick preview of what I'll be posting more details on tomorrow. Just to tired to spend an hour uploaded and elaborate now.

[IOM Black Diamond]

[572HP]

Originally Posted by Nathan Moreno

What Kilo-9 said. Just in case this is all new to you, it was to me when I first started this project. I didn't know much about "thread, pitch and how to measure.... so just in case..... Bolts have three measurements. "Diameter", either standard or metric. All the bolts I've replace are metric. "Pitch", thats the number of threads per millimeter and "Length".

You can go to Home D, Ace, etc. By the way, I love Ace! They'll have a board with sockets (see pic below), all you do is screw your bolt to the appropriate socket, this will tell you the diameter and pitch. Example: 6MM X 1.5. ( 6MM is the diameter and the 1.5 is the pitch. On the board, it also has were you can measure for length. To determine the length, you want to measure from the bottom of the head to the tip. So you might have a bolt thats 6MM X 1.5 by 30 MM. Next you can call ARP and have them give you a parts number for that size bolt. With the parts number, I call Summit and get a price. They sell individual and packs of five. If you need three of the same, it might be cheaper to buy the five pack. One thing I like about Summit is that if you have to return something, they include a postage paid return label with each of their orders.

Also, you have the two types of heads, Hex and 12 points, every bolt I've gotten have been 12 points. I think they look nicer.

Hope that helps

Oh, thanks for the compliment. It makes taking the time to post on here gratifying. I appreciate that.

Thanks for taking the time to get me started! Hmm...one of those boards would be awesome hanging in my garage! JK. I do see that you can buy bolt sizing gauges. Might invest in that.

You have inspired me to get started on mine. KILO-9 ... would love to see detailed pics of your work. Do you have these anywhere? I searched.

I spent all day yesterday on the passenger side engine wire harness. I'm close to finishing it and then I'll start on the driver's side. I'll post pics when I am done with the first side. Just sayin...lots of cutting, soldering, and heat-shrinking. I bought the new holley LS valve covers over a month ago that angle the coils. I'll paint up the coil packs later (don't want to scratch them while I'm still doing everything else.) I wish I would have seen the relocation first. Oh well, maybe later.

Also KILO-9...about your LSR strut tower caps...Is there something special required to get them to work with the pedders? I thought that I read somewhere that they had to fabricate a tool or something, but I can't find it again.

[572HP]

So I'm looking at relocating the evac solenoid. I'll need a new line from the evac line coming from the tank, and I'll need a new line going to the throttle body, or in my case the supercharger. What did you guys use as far as tubing and fittings? I'm going with the braided covering and want to use black anodized clamps/fittings where possible. Any help would be appreciated.

[Black1SS]

Thanks for all the detailed pics and explanations. It is taking you more time to do this project because of you stopping to ttake pics and writing down your steps here.
Just so you know, we really appreciate the time you have spent to try and help us out. Thank you for everything.

[The Stig]

Originally Posted by Black1SS

Thanks for all the detailed pics and explanations. It is taking you more time to do this project because of you stopping to ttake pics and writing down your steps here.
Just so you know, we really appreciate the time you have spent to try and help us out. Thank you for everything.

[572HP]

Definitely a big thanks for doing this thread!

Here is what I did yesterday and finished this morning. The driver's side is still left to do. I have cut and spliced/soldered every wire, used shrink tubing and braided sheathing.

Still need to relocate evac solenoid, paint coil packs, and get new coil pack bolts.

[The Stig]

looks really good

[bmbbl be]

looks great....

any chance you have a list of what it would take to reproduce the water line set-up you have in this pics

[austinjames]

wow

[Black1SS]

Looks great

[The Stig]

Looking awesome Nathan, question. Whose valve covers are those? I feel like you've already posted this but not sure.

[RocTrux]

MTI makes one to..heres a link.

http://www.phastekperformance.com/20...olant-line.htm

[2010abmss]

Originally Posted by BLACK10

$300 is absurd

I also perfected powder coating plastic intakes I was in the coating business for 13 years I only charged $175 they are extremely easy to coat but my company grew too big so I really don't do too many car parts anymore

[Kilo-9]

572HP, nothing special is required to install the LSR strut tower caps with the Pedders. Just swap the rubber ring over from the stock plates and install them as normal. You just can't use the little center caps because of the adjustment knobs.

[Nathan Moreno]

Originally Posted by DirtNMyTeeth

Originally Posted by austinjames

wow

Originally Posted by Black1SS

Looks great

Thanks again guys

Originally Posted by 572HP

Thanks for taking the time to get me started! Hmm...one of those boards would be awesome hanging in my garage! JK. I do see that you can buy bolt sizing gauges. Might invest in that.

You have inspired me to get started on mine. KILO-9 ... would love to see detailed pics of your work. Do you have these anywhere? I searched.

I spent all day yesterday on the passenger side engine wire harness. I'm close to finishing it and then I'll start on the driver's side. I'll post pics when I am done with the first side. Just sayin...lots of cutting, soldering, and heat-shrinking. I bought the new holley LS valve covers over a month ago that angle the coils. I'll paint up the coil packs later (don't want to scratch them while I'm still doing everything else.) I wish I would have seen the relocation first. Oh well, maybe later.

Also KILO-9...about your LSR strut tower caps...Is there something special required to get them to work with the pedders? I thought that I read somewhere that they had to fabricate a tool or something, but I can't find it again.

Shes going to look awesome when your done.

Originally Posted by Black1SS

Thanks for all the detailed pics and explanations. It is taking you more time to do this project because of you stopping to take pics and writing down your steps here.
Just so you know, we really appreciate the time you have spent to try and help us out. Thank you for everything.

Originally Posted by stieger

My way of paying it forward for all the help I've recieved here.

Originally Posted by stieger

Looking awesome Nathan, question. Whose valve covers are those? I feel like you've already posted this but not sure.

Steiger, they are Katech, design mainly for racing.

Originally Posted by 2010abmss

I also perfected powder coating plastic intakes I was in the coating business for 13 years I only charged $175 they are extremely easy to coat but my company grew too big so I really don't do too many car parts anymore

Mike only charges $200, not $300.

[Nathan Moreno]

Originally Posted by 572HP

So I'm looking at relocating the evac solenoid. I'll need a new line from the evac line coming from the tank, and I'll need a new line going to the throttle body, or in my case the supercharger. What did you guys use as far as tubing and fittings? I'm going with the braided covering and want to use black anodized clamps/fittings where possible. Any help would be appreciated.

You can use your exiting EVAC line that goes from your factory hard line to the solenoid. When you relocate it, just redirect the line to the new location. If you need to cut it, take the end the fitting off the end and reinstall it on the shorten line.

For the black braided line and fittings, I used XRP http://www.xrp.com/ You can call them and get a local distributor in your area to supply with with what you need.

Originally Posted by bmbbl be

looks great....

any chance you have a list of what it would take to reproduce the water line set-up you have in this pics

As I said, I used XRP, The black blocks on the second picture should be in today.... but before I give you what parts I used, let me come up with a final setup. I was measuring yesterday and this configuration might not work due to some other stuff that interferes. I'm might have to rethink the whole deal.

Originally Posted by RocTrux

MTI makes one to..heres a link.

http://www.phastekperformance.com/20...olant-line.htm

RocTrux, thanks for posting, I might just go with that piece and scratch my idea, LOL.

[Nathan Moreno]

Originally Posted by 572HP

Definitely a big thanks for doing this thread!

Here is what I did yesterday and finished this morning. The driver's side is still left to do. I have cut and spliced/soldered every wire, used shrink tubing and braided sheathing.

Still need to relocate evac solenoid, paint coil packs, and get new coil pack bolts.

That looks killer....... we need more pictures!

[blazzin1]

Nathan (and 572HP), I want to "clean up" some of my wiring harnesses like you guys did. However, I am not relocating anything, or repositioning anything, I just want to take off the crappy factory electrical tape and wrap it up in the braided sheathing (I'm assuming it is the "painless wiring" braided wire wrap on Summit). I like how you guys used the shrink wrap to secure the ends of the sheathing. My question is, is there any way to do that (use the heat shrink) without cutting the wires. I'm pretty sure that heat shrink tubing is not going fit over some of those big connectors to slide it in position before heating it up. Or is there a way to "de-pin" the connectors? I really just don't want to cut any wires. I suppose if the heat shrink won't work, I could just use zip-ties, but it wouldn't look as nice. Can you give me any tips???

Oh, and that MTI cross-over vapor tube looks killer, I think I might go that route too!!!

[Roto-fab 1]

Originally Posted by brantley847

...anyone aware if the rotofab radiator cover will fit the CAI intake?

Here is a pic of the Roto-fab radiator cover used with a CAI Inductions intake. Like our intake, they use a 6" radius elbow so the contour of the cover matches up nicely.



For those interested, our radiator cover fits with the Hennessey intake...

[gl2filmerguy]

Originally Posted by 572HP

Definitely a big thanks for doing this thread!

Here is what I did yesterday and finished this morning. The driver's side is still left to do. I have cut and spliced/soldered every wire, used shrink tubing and braided sheathing.

Still need to relocate evac solenoid, paint coil packs, and get new coil pack bolts.

Any tips on how to do that? I really would love to do that with those lines since I just got the Holley LS valve covers like that..
PM so we don't clutter!

[NC-V]

Originally Posted by blazzin1

I'm pretty sure that heat shrink tubing is not going fit over some of those big connectors to slide it in position before heating it up. Or is there a way to "de-pin" the connectors? I really just don't want to cut any wires. I suppose if the heat shrink won't work, I could just use zip-ties, but it wouldn't look as nice. Can you give me any tips???

Yes you can de-pin the connectors and run the heat shrink over the wire bundles. When doing this I highly recommend taking photos of each connector AND making a diagram on paper. In order to get the wrap or shrink tubing over the larger bundles/splices and spots where multiple connector bundles come together you will have to de-pin multiple connectors at one time. Just take your time and don't remove any wires or pins without being darn sure of where they will go back. Don't rely on a service manual, all-data, mitchell on-demand etc. I have run into multiple instances where they contradict each other or do not match how things were wired from factory. Good luck!

And Nathan, man you got guts cutting that hose in the kitchen, razor blading that granite countertop and putting a vise in there!!!! Things are lookin good though!