6L80E modified tuning here!

[tsears]

The purpose of this thread is to discuss tunes regarding the 6L80E in higher (non stock) cars.

Since we are on the high end of the scale when it comes down to weight, it's best we discuss applications that are relatively similar in weight. (Sorry 'vette guys)


Here is my current specs for the 6L:

• 3-5-R & 4-5-6 Alto Red Eagle Clutch packs
• TCS Billet 300m Intermediate shaft
• FTI SRL Stall (2800)
• Welding around the clutch hubs for strength

I've got a modified Century tune from Century Transmissions. Currently 428RWHP on a load bearing dyno.


Lets keep this a working thread, on the topic at hand.


If you want to upload a HPT or log you must zip the file first!

Here is mine that everyone can view. Feel free to make recommendations.
I'm having mixed feelings about the TM. Threads on HPTuners say to turn it completely off for built 6L's, some on G8 threads say to leave it on. Any experience with this?

[SC2150]

We
ll get Phil from Tampa Tuning in here....he has worked his way around the tables pretty well as far as HPT goes...

[tsears]

Originally Posted by SC2150

We
ll get Phil from Tampa Tuning in here....he has worked his way around the tables pretty well as far as HPT goes...

[Slowhawk]

The tuning available still sucks but is getting better.Would be nice to have a nice plug/play swap to 4L60's or 80's that still usses the factory computer to control it.

[tsears]

Originally Posted by Slowhawk

The tuning available still sucks but is getting better.Would be nice to have a nice plug/play swap to 4L60's or 80's that still usses the factory computer to control it.

That's the point of this thread. To work TOGETHER to get a better tune. I'm a fan of early adoption not legacy.

[Tampa Tuning]

Originally Posted by SC2150

We
ll get Phil from Tampa Tuning in here....he has worked his way around the tables pretty well as far as HPT goes...

No pressure right lol

The 6L50/80/90 transmissions are complicated, but really nice when you dial them in. At your power level, it shouldn’t be an issue. Supercharged vehicles burn them up, but with that kind of power level it should be expected. Listen to your builder when he tells you to built it to handle the power. If you keep the tranny stock, and start pushing 600+ RWHP through them, start saving because they are not going to last. Stock to bolt-ons no issues, Cam only with bolt ons, I haven’t notice any issues either but the more power you have, just like the LS3 clutch, it's going to start slipping.

Im interested on how the ZL1 A6 is set up, and when I tune one, Ill inform you.

When I tune a transmission I sit with the owner and ask a ton of question on how they want the transmission set up. I set up the transmission first, so while street tuning, they get a couple hours of feeling how the shifts are set up before they leave.

Below is what I enhance and or reduce.

Stall torque management

Torque management

Part throttle shifts upward. Just depends what the owner likes.

The 2010 1/2s and prior have desired shift times. Builds after that do not. There are a couple dozen up shift and down shifts tables to change. Again, it what the owner likes. the idea is to make the shifts feel consistent.

The inertia factor profile along with the shift time inertia adder tables

The shift time input torque adders

Desired output torque

Something a see a lot of guys forget is the discrete shift torque neutralization

Line pressure for your max pressure, max pressure B, max clutch pressure, and default pressure. The amount of pressure also depends on the type of car and if the car has a aftermarket converter. You just don’t just add 50 pounds blindly across the board. Start small with 5 pounds and increase it. Remember these are temperature sensitive and torque related settings.

The torque converter tables if there is a aftermarket stall, and the stall pressure ramp up.

For the L99 Camaros because the AFM, you have to disable the Displacement On Demand in the transmission and engine.

The desired slip if you have a stall.

The lighter the car, the fewer enhancements for the same affect. With the Corvettes, you still make most of the above changes, just not as much because they are lighter.
I hope that helps. Kid’s don’t try this at home lol

www.TampaTuning.com
Phil

[tsears]

I'm using the shift strategies out of the 2011 CTS-V, work pretty good for street driving.

Originally Posted by Tampa Tuning

No pressure right lol

The 6L50/80/90 transmissions are complicated, but really nice when you dial them in. At your power level, it shouldn’t be an issue. Supercharged vehicles burn them up, but with that kind of power level it should be expected. Listen to your builder when he tells you to built it to handle the power. If you keep the tranny stock, and start pushing 600+ RWHP through them, start saving because they are not going to last. Stock to bolt-ons no issues, Cam only with bolt ons, I haven’t notice any issues either but the more power you have, just like the LS3 clutch, it's going to start slipping.

Im interested on how the ZL1 A6 is set up, and when I tune one, Ill inform you.

When I tune a transmission I sit with the owner and ask a ton of question on how they want the transmission set up. I set up the transmission first, so while street tuning, they get a couple hours of feeling how the shifts are set up before they leave.

Below is what I enhance and or reduce.

Stall torque management

Torque management

Part throttle shifts upward. Just depends what the owner likes.

The 2010 1/2s and prior have desired shift times. Builds after that do not. There are a couple dozen up shift and down shifts tables to change. Again, it what the owner likes. the idea is to make the shifts feel consistent.

The inertia factor profile along with the shift time inertia adder tables

The shift time input torque adders

Desired output torque

Something a see a lot of guys forget is the discrete shift torque neutralization

Line pressure for your max pressure, max pressure B, max clutch pressure, and default pressure. The amount of pressure also depends on the type of car and if the car has a aftermarket converter. You just don’t just add 50 pounds blindly across the board. Start small with 5 pounds and increase it. Remember these are temperature sensitive and torque related settings.

The torque converter tables if there is a aftermarket stall, and the stall pressure ramp up.

For the L99 Camaros because the AFM, you have to disable the Displacement On Demand in the transmission and engine.

The desired slip if you have a stall.

The lighter the car, the fewer enhancements for the same affect. With the Corvettes, you still make most of the above changes, just not as much because they are lighter.
I hope that helps. Kid’s don’t try this at home lol

www.TampaTuning.com
Phil

[Tampa Tuning]

Originally Posted by tsears

I'm using the shift strategies out of the 2011 CTS-V, work pretty good for street driving.

[tsears]

Originally Posted by Tampa Tuning

LOL. You're explanation of this emoticon absolutely amazes me.

[Rhino79]

I have ran reduced tq mgt and no tq mgt. To me, it feels 100 times better with no tq mgt. I didn't get crazy with shift times or pressures. I use efilive and they haven't unlocked a lot of the tq mgt tables to do it properly like hpt or the converter pwm tables, BUT part throttle and wot feel better in my car with no tq management at all.

What I have found is that on this 6l80's a decrease in shift timing will need an increase of line pressure to make it feel right. Even after a few hundred miles of learning. I have pmed slowhawk a few times picking his brain and he has helped me some on the 6l learning curve.

I have EFILive but will post my file up when I get to the other laptop. You can download efilives demo if you don't have it and view it.

[Warhorse]

Originally Posted by tsears

The purpose of this thread is to discuss tunes regarding the 6L80E in higher (non stock) cars.

Since we are on the high end of the scale when it comes down to weight, it's best we discuss applications that are relatively similar in weight. (Sorry 'vette guys)


Here is my current specs for the 6L:

• 3-5-R & 4-5-6 Alto Red Eagle Clutch packs
• TCS Billet 300m Intermediate shaft
• FTI SRL Stall (2800)
• Welding around the clutch hubs for strength

I've got a modified Century tune from Century Transmissions. Currently 428RWHP on a load bearing dyno.


Lets keep this a working thread, on the topic at hand.


If you want to upload a HPT or log you must zip the file first!

Here is mine that everyone can view. Feel free to make recommendations.
I'm having mixed feelings about the TM. Threads on HPTuners say to turn it completely off for built 6L's, some on G8 threads say to leave it on. Any experience with this?

Would like to compare your tune but unable to open .zip file. What do we need to open file in HP Tuner? Is it not possible to post .hpt file here?

I am also desperately trying to better my tune with my setup but as you are aware, the few that are knowlegable are not easily persuaded to share info. Specific info on what parameters and why would help many of us. Further, with positive recommendations, we may even be more interested in experimenting and obtaining results (good or bad) that can be shared by all.

I don't know of anyone that would be happy trashing there trans while learning but I do feel that many have done just that. There are probably a substantial number of self taught members here as myself that own EFI or HP Tuners and tune there own vehichles for a hobby. Afterall, this could lead to many realizing the 6l80 is more capable than as portrayed and possibly place even more money in the professional tuners pockets. For the members here that are old enough and can reflect on the past 50 years of hot rodding, History has proven this to be true.

[Rockit_z28]

Please see below for some new updates from HP Tuners:

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37056

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by tsears

The purpose of this thread is to discuss tunes regarding the 6L80E in higher (non stock) cars.

Since we are on the high end of the scale when it comes down to weight, it's best we discuss applications that are relatively similar in weight. (Sorry 'vette guys)


Here is my current specs for the 6L:

• 3-5-R & 4-5-6 Alto Red Eagle Clutch packs
• TCS Billet 300m Intermediate shaft
• FTI SRL Stall (2800)
• Welding around the clutch hubs for strength

I've got a modified Century tune from Century Transmissions. Currently 428RWHP on a load bearing dyno.


Lets keep this a working thread, on the topic at hand.


If you want to upload a HPT or log you must zip the file first!

Here is mine that everyone can view. Feel free to make recommendations.
I'm having mixed feelings about the TM. Threads on HPTuners say to turn it completely off for built 6L's, some on G8 threads say to leave it on. Any experience with this?

If there is anything I can say that will be helpful to newb tuners, Less is More.

Too many tuners new and professional blindly modify as many table as they can get access to without a full understanding of the strategy, cause and effect.

Starts with 1 Change and TEST TEST TEST then 2 and so on.

Ted.

[EZ SPEED]

Ted, (anyone else that can help)
I have your rough idle cam and your ProTorque converter, is there anyway to make the car not push so much when sitting at a red light?
What i mean is ....when my car is in drive and I am sitting at a red light for example...the car is pushing against the brakes like it doesnt even have a stall and you cant hear the cam lope at all. I find myselfputting the car in neutral at red light a lot due to this. BTW I tune with HP Tuners.

I have owned other cammed stalled vehicles that didnt do this.

[Steck]

If you have a built trans, you need to be dealing with a very informed tuner. It gets a lot more complicated than just pushing around shift time tables and upping pressure. You can burn up the new clutches if it isn't set up right.

If the car is pushing, idle it down. You can run a lower idle in gear since the stall will load up the engine.

[tsears]

Originally Posted by Steck@Craven

If you have a built trans, you need to be dealing with a very informed tuner. It gets a lot more complicated than just pushing around shift time tables and upping pressure. You can burn up the new clutches if it isn't set up right.

If the car is pushing, idle it down. You can run a lower idle in gear since the stall will load up the engine.

Happened already. Warped the 3-5-R clutch packs. Yes, you and Ted are 100% correct. That's why I made this thread to help people out. People can post up their tunes, and have other people look at them. Make recommendations, etc.

The idea stemmed from HP Tuners threads where people were posting up their tunes and configs. I'm surprised no on has said anything here.

[EZ SPEED]

here is my tune if anyone would like to take a look. I appreciate any help

[Rhino79]

When do you need to start modifying the oncoming and offgoing settings and presets? I am still basically stock so shift timing and pressures have worked great for me.

[Steck]

Originally Posted by Rhino79

When do you need to start modifying the oncoming and offgoing settings and presets? I am still basically stock so shift timing and pressures have worked great for me.

Typically, you only adjust the volume when you have a built transmission that uses thicker clutches or has different clearances. If you have a lot of power, you may need to increase the presets for oncoming and offgoing pressure to ensure that the gears engagea and disengage at the right time.

Oncoming pressure is the pressure applied to the gear you're shifting into. Offgoing pressure is the pressure used to hold the current gear you're in. When a shift occurs, the offgoing pressure is used to keep the transmission in the current gear while the clutch pack fills with fluid (this is where the volume comes into play, as the volume presets are used to calculate fill time). Once the TCM thinks the clutch pack is filled, it will release the offgoing clutch and begin to engage the oncoming clutch. Different symptoms will drive different changes to the values. For example, an early flare in the shift versus a late flare in the shift indicate two different things that need to be adjusted.

For the most part, leaving the pressure presets alone is the best bet. Volume definitely has to be adjusted with the upgraded clutch packs though. If you're getting a specific issue that volume isn't correcting, then it'd be wise to start looking into oncoming and offgoing presets. Those pressures are likely close enough to what they need to be that the TCM will eventually learn what it needs.



A big thanks goes out to Chris at HP Tuners for the above information, which I basically reworded.

[Rhino79]

Thanks Steve. I have efilive and am VERY limited on T43 tables. It has been so hard finding good support on theses things.

Mods can we get file extensions added to upload files where they are actually readable? I have tried 3rd party fileshare url's etc and they won't upload.

[Steck]

My name is Dave. Lol.

I don't do EFI Live. HP Tuners blows everyone away on 6L80/90 support. The moral of the story is don't touch 90% of the trans tables though. Haha.

[Rhino79]

I keep thinking I see Steve instead of Steck....lol

[tsears]

Originally Posted by Steck@Craven

My name is Dave. Lol.

I don't do EFI Live. HP Tuners blows everyone away on 6L80/90 support. The moral of the story is don't touch 90% of the trans tables though. Haha.

Thanks Dave. I've seen a couple of your posts in HP Tuners forums. Appreciate the info.

[thesubfloor]

but still a built transmission nonetheless - 2007 LS7 Corvette with a 6L80E from Century.

For those of you that aren't familiar with my car from the CorvetteForum, I became Century's "test mule" back in 2009. The first one Mike built lasted only 83 passes but it's failure was from a part unrelated to the clutch pack upgrade.

I installed the second one in September 2010 and after 399 low 10 second passes (as of 2 weeks ago) as well as just under 20K street miles it's still in the car as we speak and performing fantastically. Originally we thought it'd be fun to leave it in there just to see how long it'd last but later decided that it'd be better to open it up while it's still holding together just to see how everything is holding up to the abuse.

I also have a tune I did for a friend's Corvette with 70K miles on a stock transmission and at least a few hundred passes if anybody's interested in seeing that.

[tsears]

Originally Posted by thesubfloor

but still a built transmission nonetheless - 2007 LS7 Corvette with a 6L80E from Century.

For those of you that aren't familiar with my car from the CorvetteForum, I became Century's "test mule" back in 2009. The first one Mike built lasted only 83 passes but it's failure was from a part unrelated to the clutch pack upgrade.

I installed the second one in September 2010 and after 399 low 10 second passes (as of 2 weeks ago) as well as just under 20K street miles it's still in the car as we speak and performing fantastically. Originally we thought it'd be fun to leave it in there just to see how long it'd last but later decided that it'd be better to open it up while it's still holding together just to see how everything is holding up to the abuse.

I also have a tune I did for a friend's Corvette with 70K miles on a stock transmission and at least a few hundred passes if anybody's interested in seeing that.

Thanks sub! In regards to the vette trans tunes, I hear they are quite a bit different because of the added weight in the Camaro. Have you tuned your Camaro to overcome the additional weight?