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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 12-29-2011, 02:50 PM   #1
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Thoughts about my L99

My father and I both have 2010 Camaros. Mine is a manual and his is an auto. Well my older brother just bought a 2011 6.4 hemi challenger which brings me to problem. I know the L99 is lacking some hp because its an auto. My goal is to catch it up to the 6.4 challenger without going crazy. I bought my dad a cold air intake along with the scoop and we plan a complete exhaust (tuning in spring). What else could I do to gain some hp. Replacing the pulley on the crank worth doing? I look forward to hearing some of your guys thoughts.
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:53 PM   #2
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Get a friggin' cam!
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:55 PM   #3
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long tubes and a tune 50hp at least
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:57 PM   #4
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Get a friggin' cam!


Full bolt ons, tune, ls3 conversion, cam and ud pulley. Cost me about $6k~ and the car is another beast.
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Old 12-29-2011, 03:30 PM   #5
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You can get a tune, cai, and headers for around $1500 and it should get you want to be. (K&N CAI = < $300. OBX Headers = $700. Custom tune = < $400)

I have to assume you don't want to spend $6k just to be faster than a stock Challenger, which would be nothing short of ridiculous.

Also, I don't recommend a small pulley to anyone. The potential for charging and or cooling system issues isn't worth HP bumps that could simply be chalked up to variances.
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Old 12-29-2011, 04:01 PM   #6
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Just take him to the dragstrip and outdrive him. I ran a 2011 SRT8 with the 470hp 392 hemi and won by 1.2 seconds and about 3 car lenghts. Power doesn't mean anything if you can't plant it and drive, I was spinning off the line and still won. Good luck, enjoy the ride!!!
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Old 12-29-2011, 04:07 PM   #7
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Just take him to the dragstrip and outdrive him. I ran a 2011 SRT8 with the 470hp 392 hemi and won by 1.2 seconds and about 3 car lenghts. Power doesn't mean anything if you can't plant it and drive, I was spinning off the line and still won. Good luck, enjoy the ride!!!
He must've missed like 2 shifts.
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Old 12-29-2011, 05:06 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Cyber2SS View Post
My father and I both have 2010 Camaros. Mine is a manual and his is an auto. Well my older brother just bought a 2011 6.4 hemi challenger which brings me to problem. I know the L99 is lacking some hp because its an auto. My goal is to catch it up to the 6.4 challenger without going crazy. I bought my dad a cold air intake along with the scoop and we plan a complete exhaust (tuning in spring). What else could I do to gain some hp. Replacing the pulley on the crank worth doing? I look forward to hearing some of your guys thoughts.
Maybe I'm slow but if you have a M6 how do you have a L99? I thought all M6's were LS3
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Old 12-29-2011, 05:10 PM   #9
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Maybe I'm slow but if you have a M6 how do you have a L99? I thought all M6's were LS3
It appears the Op is talking about his fathers A6 L99!
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Old 12-29-2011, 05:11 PM   #10
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Throw one of these in there FTW!

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Old 12-29-2011, 05:14 PM   #11
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It appears the Op is talking about his fathers A6 L99!
ok makes sense the thread title of my L99 threw me off. Also what he said ^
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Old 12-30-2011, 01:21 AM   #12
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Throw one of these in there FTW!

Attachment 319784
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Old 12-30-2011, 02:34 AM   #13
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Just take him to the dragstrip and outdrive him. I ran a 2011 SRT8 with the 470hp 392 hemi and won by 1.2 seconds and about 3 car lenghts. Power doesn't mean anything if you can't plant it and drive, I was spinning off the line and still won. Good luck, enjoy the ride!!!
you should never ever just bank on that idea.
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Old 12-30-2011, 03:49 AM   #14
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The best things you can do and keep it reasonably priced. And I recommend all them together if you can afford it. CAI, LT headers with high flow cats, ADM race scoop, and a dyne tune with transmission tuning. The dyne tuning will include torque management removed from the engine side and partially or completely removed from the transmission side. I went from 333 HP with these bolt on but untuned to 367 HP and 373 TQ after an EFI live tune. It's a completely different car now and like everyone says: "How it should of been from GM in the first place".

I bought used Dynatech LT's and high flow cats for $700. A used CAI and ADM scoop with Rotofab washer bottle relocation for $325. The dyno tune cost me $450. For $1475, this car is now a serious runner and probably a mid 12's car with good racing conditions. I left the cutback completely stock as it has a very nice tone at idle and normal driving and it growls nice and deep at WOT. Cat back exhaust doesn't add anything over 5 HP and it costs you big bucks.

I bought everything used in the swap and sell classified here on this forum. Be patient and check often and you'll find great deals.
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Old 12-30-2011, 04:24 AM   #15
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333 hp stock? For a 2 ss?? Even if your a l99 that's a weak starting hp!! Never seen one that low to start. Mine is a Ls3 and I started at 366 rwhp. Now I'm in the 480 range. Love the cam install. So I suggest cam and headers for biggest hp upgrade. And dyno tune with it. Have to tune it with new cam and headers. The car is a completly different car now.
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Old 12-30-2011, 06:20 AM   #16
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No 333 is about right for a L99. You have to remember 26 less HP that an LS3 and 20% loss thru automatic compared to about 12-15 on stick.
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:11 AM   #17
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333 hp stock? For a 2 ss?? Even if your a l99 that's a weak starting hp!! Never seen one that low to start. Mine is a Ls3 and I started at 366 rwhp. Now I'm in the 480 range. Love the cam install. So I suggest cam and headers for biggest hp upgrade. And dyno tune with it. Have to tune it with new cam and headers. The car is a completly different car now.
That's about where mine started... it's climbing tho...
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:15 AM   #18
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:42 AM   #19
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333 hp stock? For a 2 ss?? Even if your a l99 that's a weak starting hp!! Never seen one that low to start. Mine is a Ls3 and I started at 366 rwhp. Now I'm in the 480 range. Love the cam install. So I suggest cam and headers for biggest hp upgrade. And dyno tune with it. Have to tune it with new cam and headers. The car is a completly different car now.

Actually 333rwhp is pretty good for an L99.

Most I see are >320rwhp.
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:21 AM   #20
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Auto 392s are faster than sticks based on the tune. What does he have?
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Old 12-30-2011, 12:05 PM   #21
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If you really want an auto to run better just get a high stall torque converter.
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Old 12-31-2011, 02:15 PM   #22
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333 hp stock? For a 2 ss?? Even if your a l99 that's a weak starting hp!! Never seen one that low to start. Mine is a Ls3 and I started at 366 rwhp.
Do the math 366-333=33 rwhp difference betweet your LS3 and his L99. The L99 is rated at 26hp less than LS3 at the crank so another 7hp lost through the tranny is about dead on.

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If you really want an auto to run better just get a high stall torque converter.
^^^^Best bank for your $$$ right there....
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Old 12-31-2011, 05:22 PM   #23
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You can get a tune, cai, and headers for around $1500 and it should get you want to be. (K&N CAI = < $300. OBX Headers = $700. Custom tune = < $400)

I have to assume you don't want to spend $6k just to be faster than a stock Challenger, which would be nothing short of ridiculous.

Also, I don't recommend a small pulley to anyone. The potential for charging and or cooling system issues isn't worth HP bumps that could simply be chalked up to variances.
Had a 25% underdrive pulley and noticed 11 volts while driving my car, side mirrors moved way slower , headlamps dimmed during warm up and horn sounded muffled first 3 times after start up and worst of all steering felt like the pump was dead and car understeered like crap even with suspension mods. 25% underdrive pulley gone and replaced by ATI 2% pulley and all is back to normal and oh get this feels the same with power except more torque feeling up top than the 25% underdrive.
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Old 12-31-2011, 06:18 PM   #24
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330-340 baseline on a L99 on one guys dyno...I have seen 370... Who's is right? Doesn't matter....can't really compare one dyno to another. You need before and after on the same dyno. Apples to apples. So many forum jockeys swear by Internet numbers and then tell someone their dyno is wrong. Lol
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Old 12-31-2011, 06:24 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L99CAMA2011 View Post
Had a 25% underdrive pulley and noticed 11 volts while driving my car, side mirrors moved way slower , headlamps dimmed during warm up and horn sounded muffled first 3 times after start up and worst of all steering felt like the pump was dead and car understeered like crap even with suspension mods. 25% underdrive pulley gone and replaced by ATI 2% pulley and all is back to normal and oh get this feels the same with power except more torque feeling up top than the 25% underdrive.
People try to treat the new cars as if they're the old TPI sleds.

The EFI is so refined these days, the small gains you get aren't really worth the trade-offs.

On my own car, the stock harmonic damper is fine. If/when the car gets some soft of forced induction installed, I'll step up to an ATI piece, like yours.

Those heavy dampers do a great job of helping you keep everything together.

Another thing to consider is the fact that a dyno isn't a device with laser-like precision. With so many things that can affect a HP/to result (like how the car is strapped down, parameters entered when you set it up, heat, elevation, humidity, time of day, etc...), 5 HP could very well be an anomalous variance between runs.

I don't gamble on a part that'd cost us thousands to replace on a $300 part that *MIGHT* get me 3-5 RWHP.
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