How to change your oil in V6

[trooper182]

Ok so I just got back from our Christmas trip to AZ and it is time to change the oil. At this point I am showing 13% oil life and this is after going 7796 miles since my last change. I decided since I have seen people asking how to change the oil I would do a write up. So if the Mods want to make this a sticky cool. So here we go

Things needed:

-6 quarts of 5w30 dexos approved oil (I personally use Mobil 1 full synthetic)
-Extra low price oil to help flush the old oil (optional)
-New oil filter (I used Fram Extra Guard CH8765)
-Socket wrench and a 5/8 socket or 15mm
-Adjustable wrench
-jack and jack stands
-cleaning rags
-container to catch used oil

Cost of all minus tools $59.75

One thing that I bought at Walmart was a little kit that came with a oil catch pad, oil rags and some gloves. All came in useful as you will see in the pics.

First start with a warm engine. I went to Walmart and bought all the supplies then let the car sit in the garage to cool for about an hour. Once ready Set the parking brake. Next jack up the front of the car so you can reach the oil drain plug. Take your 5/8 socket and brake the bolt loose (pull wrench toward the front of the car to loosen). Once it is loose move your oil catch container into place. This is where having the oil catch pad comes in useful to help catch any oil that would otherwise spill on your floor. Once everything is in place and if you want you can put on some protective gloves, unscrew the bolt. Once the bolt is out the oil will free flow. At this point go ahead and lower your car so that it is level.

Step A: This next part is optional so if you do not want to use go ahead a skip to step B Open your hood and remove the oil fill cap and the engine cover. Using the cheap oil you bought pour it into the oil fill port. Make sure you HAVE NOT put the oil drain plug back in yet. What you are doing is using the fresh oil to help push old oil out. Some say to do this others say you dont have to so this part is up to you.

Step B: Since you are waiting for the oil to drain go ahead and open your hood and remove the old oil filter. See pics below. After you have removed the old one go ahead and put the new one in and tighten the cap back on. Once the filter is in place go ahead and jack the car back up. At this point the oil should be done draining. Move the oil catch container out of the way and go ahead and put the drain plug back on. Make sure its tight. Once it is back on lower the car.

Now it is time to add your fresh oil. Pour the oil into the fill hole. Once you have put in 5 1/2 quarts stop here. Now the manual says to add 6 Quarts of oil back as you can see in my pics after adding 5 1/2 quarts I was showing full on the stick.
Note: At this point what I do is stop adding oil and go for a short drive and after I get home I let the car sit for about 20 min then check the oil level again and add oil as needed. Puerly up to you on how you want to do it.

Ok so now that you have added your oil you are almost done. Go ahead and put your engine cover back on and put the oil fill cap on. Once this is all done get inside your car. Now you need to reset your oil life monitor. To do this turn the car key to the accessory, dont start it. Press the menu button on you left stick. On your DIC you will see it change to "Vehicle Information Menu". Once here scroll over to the oil life monitor. Press the reset button. Once you do it will ask if you are sure. Scroll up to yes and then press the reset button again. Your OLM is now reset.

Now go ahead and start your Camaro. Once you do check the seal on the oil filter cap and make sure it is not leaking. Check the oil drain bolt and make sure it is not leaking. If all is well then you are all set to go for a drive. After you do make sure you check everything again. Now that you are done go ahead and take the waist oil to a recycling center. Almost all auto parts stores will accept used oil.

I hope this has been informative and will help you all out. Yes changing your oil is a little more expensive then say going to Walmart but then again you get the gratification of knowing you did it yourself. And you get the reassurance it was done write. Dad had a tire fall off his truck while he was on I-40 because guy at Walmart forgot to tighten down the lug nuts on one of the tires. Make sure you keep your receipts for your records as proof of your oil change.

Another thing you may all want to think about investing in is a oil catch can. In a nut shell, it keeps oil from accumulating in your intake manifold. I built my own and yes I know it is not as good or pretty as the ones that are sold by the vendors on this site like the RX can but it works. Had my DIY can on the car for 2000 miles and as you can see in the pic with the red solo cup, it works. If you want more in depth info on what a catch can does just search the site and you will find plenty of info. Hope this has help.

[phantomblackgto]

My suggestions:

1. DON'T put 30W HD oil in your engine!
2. Buy Mobil 1 in the 5-quart jugs at Wal-Mart for $24.50 rather than spending $6.47 per quart for the individual bottles.
3. I'd buy something other than a Fram filter (particularly if you plan on going that far between oil changes).
4. Put all 6 quarts in (the other half quart is for the filter).
5. Invest in a funnel.
6. You shouldn't need to lower your car to get a good complete drain.

[rtcat600man]

Good info. Here is another thread too.

Post # 60 for the V6 info.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ght=oil+change

[nyrfan]

Originally Posted by phantomblackgto

My suggestions:

1. DON'T put 30W HD oil in your engine!
2. Buy Mobil 1 in the 5-quart jugs at Wal-Mart for $24.50 rather than spending $6.47 per quart for the individual bottles.
3. I'd buy something other than a Fram filter (particularly if you plan on going that far between oil changes).
4. Put all 6 quarts in (the other half quart is for the filter).
5. Invest in a funnel.
6. You shouldn't need to lower your car to get a good complete drain.

1- No comment as I don't know if this is good or bad
2- Agreed
3- Agreed - Note: The newer 2011’s and ones that have had the ECM flashed are mush less aggressive when it come to the OLM, mine will just about be 0% out a 5K. I too use Mobil 1 and change every 4K miles, I IGNORE the OLM. My advice to you would be to ignore the OLM and change at no more then 5K miles, especially with the potential timing chain and oil loss issues.
4- Agreed
5- Agreed
6- I am guilty of this, but will probably change my habit

Addition (and somewhat important): Buy a torque wrench and needed extension and sockets (lose the adjustable wrench). Both the oil filter housing and oil drain plug should be torqued to spec. The oil filter house even says it on it.
18.5 lb-ft for the housing
18 lb-ft for the plug

Also invest in a magnitic drain plug for added cleaning

[NavyDood]

The ONLY fram I would run if I absolutely had no choice would ONLY be the XtendedGuard and Fram doesn't make XtendedGuard for the V6.

[trooper182]

Originally Posted by phantomblackgto

My suggestions:

1. DON'T put 30W HD oil in your engine!
2. Buy Mobil 1 in the 5-quart jugs at Wal-Mart for $24.50 rather than spending $6.47 per quart for the individual bottles.
3. I'd buy something other than a Fram filter (particularly if you plan on going that far between oil changes).
4. Put all 6 quarts in (the other half quart is for the filter).
5. Invest in a funnel.
6. You shouldn't need to lower your car to get a good complete drain.

Thanks for the input. I used the cheap oil because I had a little on hand (normally I would just buy a cheap 5w30). Would much rather of had bought the 5 quart jug but Walmart was out of them in 5w30 so that's why I just got the 6 individuals. After I do my short drive and recheck the oil that's when I add more oil as needed. As for funnel goes, yes can be handy but I never have issues poring it in without one. Reason I lower the car back down is because I found that after lowering it I was able to get more oil out. Also I'm sure most people don't have perfectly level locations when doing there changes so in my opinion it is all personal preference. Again thanks for your input

[smokingcamaro]

Cool nice write up!!! I change my engine with mobil one as well and after 5,500 miles on the oil change my oil life meter goes down to zero. I wonder if there is something wrong with mine or what!

[NavyDood]

Originally Posted by smokingcamaro

Cool nice write up!!! I change my engine with mobil one as well and after 5,500 miles on the oil change my oil life meter goes down to zero. I wonder if there is something wrong with mine or what!

The OLM doesn't know that you put the Mobil 1 in it and has no way of changing its parameters because you are now running a synthetic.

[TastyBake]

Should we have this as a FAQ? Not sure if we want a ton of stickies but these are great pics that shouldn't be lost.

[zkdreads]

How much did all this run u when a dealership can do an oil change for 34.95(in Florida that is)

[67 Convertible]

Originally Posted by zkdreads

How much did all this run u when a dealership can do an oil change for 34.95(in Florida that is)

Doubt you're getting synthetic with a $34.95 oil change with 6 qts.

[zkdreads]

Originally Posted by 67 Convertible

Doubt you're getting synthetic with a $34.95 oil change with 6 qts.

i have a v6. dont need synthetic. and a synthetic oil change at my dealer is 89.99

[trooper182]

Originally Posted by zkdreads

How much did all this run u when a dealership can do an oil change for 34.95(in Florida that is)

each quart is 6.47 = 38.82
filter 10.24
drain pan 6.26
oil change kit 3.47
Total: 58.79 (before tax)
58.79

Cost of getting the pleasure of doing it yourself and peace of mind knowing the job was done correct instead of some guy who could care less about your car doing it...PRICELESS

[trooper182]

Still cheaper to do it yourself and the plus of not having to drop your car off or sit at the dealership and wait for them to do it.

[JAustin]

Some late thoughts from another V6 DIY owner who just changed his oil for the second time (1st at 3K, 2nd at 7.5K):

1) You don't need to remove the engine cover to change the oil filter. I use a jointed socket extension to remove / reinstall the filter housing cap, and have no clearance issues at all.

2) I also lower the vehicle after removing the plug, in order to drain out as much oil as possible.

3) Invest a few bucks in a righteous oil drain pan, and you won't have all that mess to clean up. Mine has a diameter of about 15" and catches all the drained oil from the first full burst to the last final dribbles. (I still put a plastic-backed pad underneath it, but use leftover puppy training pads, about 24" square.) My (plastic) oil drain pan has a spout with a threaded cap on one side, a handle molded into the opposite side, and the top edge is curved inward all around, to prevent spills from sloshing oil when scooting it out from under the car.

4) Ditto on pouring in the full 6 quarts, and the recommendations for using sockets and torque wrenches. Also, maybe it changed from 2010 to 2011, but my oil draini plug is 15mm, not 5/8". A 5/8" socket will work on a 15mm plug, of course, but I wouldn't want to strip the head when loosening it.

P.S. I love the under-the-hood filter location; so much better than under the car. (Removing the oil filter on my 4WD Jeep Wrangler is a bear!)

[Jalberdi99]

Quick question, why do you pour the shell brand oil first? What is the purpose of that? Not judging , just asking. I'm doing my first oil change soon.

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

Originally Posted by Jalberdi99

Quick question, why do you pour the shell brand oil first? What is the purpose of that? Not judging , just asking. I'm doing my first oil change soon.

I have NEVER heard of using a P.O.S. quart of oil to "force out" any remaining old oil. Just let the old oil drain for as long as you can stand to have it drain. Find something else to do while it drips. Have the oil filter canister open, but protected from dust/dirt/debris intrusion. Open the fill cap but leave the cap atop the fitting. Both of the open fittings allow the oil to drain more fully and keeps the drain from trying to gulp air back into itself while the first few quarts pour out.

Oil change pads? Puppy pads? Try newspaper.

Fram filters do not have a great reputation, but at least the V-6 filters don't have an anti-drain back valve, which has been my main beef with them. Another decent alternative is a NAPA Gold.

Quit using English measurement tools on a metric car. Get the tools that fit, and like mentioned above, ditch the adjustable wrench. You'll end up busting a knuckle, rounding off flats on fittings or damaging something else "when" the wrench comes off the fastener.

Why go to extra trouble with universal joints and extensions to get the oil filter canister lid off when all you have to do is remove the engine cover? Once the fill cap is off, all you have to do is pull up on the front of the cover and it comes right off.

I don't use any fancy ramps, either. a few pieces of short-sectioned lumber will work just fine. I have some unused 2"x8" that I use. Drive up on the first section, then add another set and drive up on those. Voila, 3" extra clearance (a 2"x4" is only 1 1/2" thick, BTW). Bonus points if you have pieces for the rear tire you drive up on at the same time as the front to keep the car level. And never use concrete blocks to support the weight of a car. You know who you are. They break.

Recycle your used motor oil. All the big parts houses accept it for recycling and so does Wal Mart. Use a Home Depot Homer 5 gallon bucket so you don't have to take it in after every change. They refine the stuff and sell it to your dealer so he can put it back into unsuspecting customer's cars brought in with the 'oil change special coupon.'

I made the last sentence up, but it wouldn't surprise me.

John B.

[United_727]

Please invest in the proper tools,too. You're going to strip the pan plug and oil filter nut with that crescent wrench. That and dont use Fram.

[trooper182]

Originally Posted by United_727

Please invest in the proper tools,too. You're going to strip the pan plug and oil filter nut with that crescent wrench. That and dont use Fram.

Thanks for your reply. As you can see in the photos when I removed the pan bolt I did not use the crescent. Also for the filter I would have preferred using a socket but due to someone breaking into my tool shed at the time of this post I had to make due with what I had as I was waiting for my insurance payout. Normally I use Mobil M1C-254 or K&N PS-7003 filters but the local auto store was out and all they had left was fram. Trust me I don't use fram unless I have to. Had to order a new filter and replace it once it came in. But thanks for all advice.

[ryan's camaro]

Are all Mobil 1 Full Synthetic motor oils, dexos 1 approved? Even though it doesnt state it on the label? I was thinking of putting Pennzoil Platinum Full Syn in my 2012 2LT. The 1 qt bottles say that it is dexos approved, but the 5 qt bottle of the same Pennzoil Platinum Full Syn doesnt say anything about dexos..... Can anyone clarify this for me?

[rickyrocket]

The first time I changed the oil on my Camaro I couldnt figure where the oil filter was !!! Nice & easy tho !!!