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Camaro V6 LLT Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 11-12-2012, 11:34 PM   #76
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Could you tell me more detail about the x-pipe welding? The x-pipe is 2.5" and the stock V6 exhuast pipes are 2.25", did you use any adaptor? Thanks!
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:22 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chang View Post
Could you tell me more detail about the x-pipe welding? The x-pipe is 2.5" and the stock V6 exhuast pipes are 2.25", did you use any adaptor? Thanks!
One way around this is you could get a SS midpipe from a manual. It is 2.5.
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:22 AM   #78
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Nice write up. You should get the non resonated X, you're missing out!

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Originally Posted by rtcat600man View Post
AIR TOOLS…..AIR TOOLS…..AIR TOOLS……Never again would I do this project without AIR TOOLS.

Also, If you plan to install OBX headers with MRT's I HIGHLY recommend getting the Mangaflow Resonated X Pipe (part no. 11386). This will help tone down the bad sounds you will experience at the 2500 to 3500 rpm range.

Ok that said. Let’s get into what it will take to install the OBX Headers. Here are some of my tips and experiences. I bought new bolts and new stock gaskets from the dealer. Is it required? NO. But I was not taking on any chances on any leaks because I re-used the old bolts or used stock gaskets. From what everything I read, you cannot beat the GM stock gaskets so I was not going to use the ones supplied with the headers.

First, find a friend who is a master mechanic and is willing to give up his day to help you out. THANK - YOU JOE for all your help. Without you I would still be out there busting a few more knuckles.

Second for those who wondered about the weight, the OBX headers will save you 8 lbs per side, or 16 lbs off the front end. The Stock set-up weighed in at 20 lbs, the OBX’s weigh only 12 lbs. per side.

Ok on to the exchange.

I put my Camaro in the air on 4 jack stands. (The tires are off because I am rotating the tires at this time too).

Disconnect the battery wire at its post in the engine bay.

Remove the engine cover and remove the oil dipstick and tube.

Loosen the exhaust clamps holding the cats to the exhaust system.

Remove the cross member, this will allow the exhaust to drop and slide the manifolds and cats from each other.

Disconnect the alternator to create the much needed room for your arms to work the manifold bolts loose.

Unplug the O2 sensors, all four of them. If you haven’t bought the front extenders you should do so. You will need the trapezoid style 12” extensions is plenty? Will it work without them? Probably, maybe, but it is a stretch and I thought why make it that tight when I can just purchase the 12” extenders.

Start removing the 7 bolts per side that hold the manifolds in place. By the way these bolts are ½” not the 13mm I keep reading about from other installs. This is where air tools sure would be handy. There just is not much room for you to reach in there and get the bolts out. Many are more reachable from below than above. Again thank – you JOE for taking the time to help get all those bolts out.

Once you have the manifolds down and out along with the cats, you can now take and remove the O2 sensors from the cats and pipes.

We then reinstalled the O2 sensors into the new set-up and tighten these down.

Install the new gaskets and manifolds. New 14 bolts, tightening all of these to 18ft. lbs. We did not install the starter shield on the driver’s side. There was not enough room to allow this shield to fit. The shield was more there for protection from the heat that the catalytic convertor generated than what the long tubes will create.

When installing the OBX system to the stock pipe you will be using the stock clamp at that section. The stock clamps have a clip that locks in on a small protruding piece. On the passenger side this piece is on the old cats and of no issue. However, on the driver’s side this little piece is still there and creates and issue for the clamp, to slide back far enough to allow the set-up to be slipped together. I recommend grinding this little piece off.

Connect the (4) O2 sensors. There is enough wiring for the rears if you clip the zip tie and release the wiring harness to allow the last inch of wire that you need to complete this section.

Go ahead and install the alternator, the dip stick tube and battery cable.

Total time around 9 hours. We were in no hurry, took time out for a lunch break. Is it worth it, most defiantly. When I know I can do the install and save the labor charge, I would tackle this job for sure.

Was it easy, I cannot tell a lie, it truly was a PITA. Only because those bolts are not that easy to get to during removal or install.

Hope this helps out a little more.

Thank – you for taking time to read this and if you should have any questions feel free to contact me.







Sorry it took a couple days, but here are the videos.


The first one is shortly after completing the install, taken inside my garage while still on the jack stands. The smoke is because it was maybe 25 degrees now in my garage after opening the door.





This second one is the next day, cold start up from inside the Camaro with the windows up




This third one is while out testing the pipes and sound.




This last one was made at the same location I did one last year when creating the sound clip for my MRT's.







Attachment 325114
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Final wrap up for now. I love the headers. I do not like the rasp and sound at 2500 - 3500 rpm's. There was to much noise and unwanted sound. However, talking with some of our resident experts, (you guys know who you are too, because I send you at least one PM and THANK - YOU for all your help), I have just completed my order for the Magnaflow Resonated X pipe. I have a friend of a friend who will weld this in place. I will know in a couple weeks if this helps me out to the point I think it will.

The X pipe is installed and it sure does make a HUGE difference. Toned down the annoying portion and deepened the overall sound to make my system sound GREAT.



Attachment 325115
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:47 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chang View Post
Could you tell me more detail about the x-pipe welding? The x-pipe is 2.5" and the stock V6 exhuast pipes are 2.25", did you use any adaptor? Thanks!
Lots of weld. No adapter. The shop shortened the flanges to get the X pipe to fit and welded everything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjkjr27 View Post
One way around this is you could get a SS midpipe from a manual. It is 2.5.
Good option if you can find one. But then the MRT's won't fit and you have to deal with that issue. But this is an option many have gone with to have a larger mid pipe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NOVAK View Post
Nice write up. You should get the non resonated X, you're missing out!

Missing out on what.....

What is the part number of this non resonated X pipe.......
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:03 AM   #80
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Wow a regular, non-resonated X would have been worse then the stock H.
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:17 PM   #81
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I have a MBRP catback exhaust for my 2012 V6 RS, what would be a good choice in headers cause i honestly have no idea. And would I need anything else to reduce the complaints on noise or anything like that?
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Old 03-29-2013, 04:42 PM   #82
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Thanks for the write up! It was definitely useful in my header install this week, especially moving the alternator out of the way!!!
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:19 PM   #83
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Thanks for the write up! It was definitely useful in my header install this week, especially moving the alternator out of the way!!!
You're welcome, glad to hear it helped you out.
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:40 PM   #84
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so o2 extenders are required for front and back?
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:27 PM   #85
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so o2 extenders are required for front and back?
I didnt have to use them, but you have to unclip them so they can reach. That being said I will probably buy some just to clean things up a bit.

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Old 02-14-2014, 04:53 AM   #86
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Quote:
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so o2 extenders are required for front and back?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Superfly1 View Post
I didnt have to use them, but you have to unclip them so they can reach. That being said I will probably buy some just to clean things up a bit.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

From my opening post.

"Connect the (4) O2 sensors. There is enough wiring for the rears if you clip the zip tie and release the wiring harness to allow the last inch of wire that you need to complete this section. "

I bought the front extensions.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:27 PM   #87
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Nice.. I'm surprised you guys was able to torque every one of those bolts down. I couldn't get to some of them with my big arse tq wrench and had to go by feel. I don't have any leaks after 10k miles still, but would like to check some of those bolts one day just to be sure. Just don't know what I have to use to torque some of those bolts down. Got any pic of the tools used?
I've put head gaskets on Harley Shovelheads and Panheads where my torque wrench would never reach. I never had a problem - using good gaskets.
After building many a Chevy motor, I always brought the head bolt torque to specs in increments. I developed a "feel" what different torques are like on the wrench.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:53 AM   #88
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UPDATE on my OBX headers.

Yesterday I finally had enough of the resonators that came with the OBX headers, and removed them and fit a straight pipe in its place. The reason was the resonated piece inside of the two was loose and making a horrible metal ping sound when accelerating and even at idle. Drove me nuts knowing it sounded so bad.

Bought 2 pieces of pipe from local auto store and went about replacing them yesterday. Would have been easy if I had a lift, but since I used a jack and some stands, crawled around on the ground, it took a while, especially to get the system apart as thee old resonators were stuck on their pretty good.

So much better now that it is done. I hear nothing from that annoying rattle any more.

Putting this out there in case it happens to anyone else who owns this set-up.
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