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Old 10-28-2012, 10:21 PM   #1
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Thumbs up Not bad for rattle cans ey?

I wanted my original front fascia not to have front license plate holder holes so bad that I did the unthinkable using rattle cans and low and behold...

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I had my local auto paint shop put IBM enamel into 2 rattle cans for a basecoat. 20 minutes later I sprayed 3 cans of urethane clear coat with a hardener activator.

The next morning I did a little wet sanding with some 1500 grt sandpaper. I machine buffed the flat areas and hand buffed the cranies. What a big pain that was. I installed the fascia this morning and whalah!

Not bad for $150.00 worth of materials, of which I already had most of in my basement.
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:12 PM   #2
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It can be done with rattle can, absolutely. Only issue you may run into is it may rock chip easier. I've seen people rattle can entire cars and you'd never be able to tell it wasn't professional, after sanding and buffing of course. Nice work!
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:16 PM   #3
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absolutely awesome job, looks like new again
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:37 PM   #4
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Thank you guys. It was also a good pastime doing it and taking pride in the results.

I picked up my SLP rear spoiler yesterday from the bodyshop too since the shop still hadn't got to it. I will be painting it myself tomorrow or the next day. Here it is so far...

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This is one of the ends I cut off.
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:24 PM   #5
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How much dry time did you give between coats of clear?
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:15 PM   #6
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Looks good.
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremywes View Post
How much dry time did you give between coats of clear?
10 minutes w/ heat lamp near by and inside a 75 degrees warm room.

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Looks good.
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:53 PM   #8
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Would you mind explaining the process a bit more? What did you use to fill the holes? How did you smooth that out? What primer was used? What kind of paint is it and what paint ships will mix auto paint into a rattle can? What is urethane clear and hardener?

Finally, did you just use OTC polishes like a swirl and haze remover and work down? Or did you have to use a different polish?

Sorry for all the questions. I would just love to do my own work. With some practice of course.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:12 PM   #9
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Would you mind explaining the process a bit more? What did you use to fill the holes? How did you smooth that out? What primer was used? What kind of paint is it and what paint ships will mix auto paint into a rattle can? What is urethane clear and hardener?

Finally, did you just use OTC polishes like a swirl and haze remover and work down? Or did you have to use a different polish?

Sorry for all the questions. I would just love to do my own work. With some practice of course.

I used regular ol' JB Weld to plug the holes. (DO NOT USE IT ON FLEXIBLE PARTS AS I HAVE DISCOVERED) I had to heat the bumper cover with a hair dryer and press the warped areas with my thumbs for a bit to remove the minor warps in the fascia in order to achieve a smooth surface.


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This is the only kind of filler that should be used for flexible bumper repair:

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This is the key:

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This clear is $20.00 per can and is good for 48hrs after you punch this activator pin under the can. This is autobody shop grade clear coat, not the cheap dull stuff. The basecoat, the auto paint and supplies store mixes me a pint of my car's color. Then they put it in special rattle cans (4 cans per pint). I use high build primer and wet sand it smooth for the best results:

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They can't put all colors in a basecoat rattle can but I got lucky.

Here is my latest project that I just finished painting (ZL585 rear spoiler):
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Last edited by midnighter; 11-18-2012 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:19 PM   #10
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Was there flex agent in the paints you used?
I'm not sure if regular JB weld will work on flexible plastics..
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:23 PM   #11
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Was there flex agent in the paints you used?
Nope. They normally won't even use flex agents in bodyshops. It's like anything, if you over flex the bumper the paint will crack. I have not had any problems with any of my work that I wouldn't have had when the bodyshop did the painting.

I spend more time letting my paint let off all the trapped gasses between coats for better results(several thin coats). The shops want to rush through and get your stuff in and out quick.

JB weld sticks to anything. I've used it for years with no problems.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:31 PM   #12
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Nope. They normally won't even use flex agents in bodyshops. It's like anything, if you over flex the bumper the paint will crack. I have not had any problems with any of my work that I wouldn't have had when the bodyshop did the painting.

I spend more time letting my paint let off all the trapped gasses between coats for better results(several thin coats). The shops want to rush through and get your stuff in and out quick.

JB weld sticks to anything. I've used it for years with no problems.
It's not only from the flexing of the bumper but from the expansion and contraction of the plastic due to temperature changes. If the paint or JB weld do not expand or contract at the same rate it can cause problems. I have seen it many times.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:37 PM   #13
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It's not only from the flexing of the bumper but from the expansion and contraction of the plastic due to temperature changes. If the paint or JB weld do not expand or contract at the same rate it can cause problems. I have seen it many times.
That can be, I have not seen it so far. I wouldn't go as far as doing any major repairs on a urethane bumper with JB weld but all I did was plug six 1/4" holes and stuck some plastic backing on the inside of the bumper cover to help the JB weld stay intact. I waswaiting on a new bumper from Gary's but it arrived cracked so back to them it went. (careless but expensive shipping)

This was just a supposed to be a temperary solution until I got my new painted bumper. Well have to see what happens now.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:38 PM   #14
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That can be, I have not seen it so far. I wouldn't go as far as doing any major repairs on a urethane bumper with JB weld but all I did was plug 6 1/4 holes and stuck some plastic backing on the inside of the bumper cover to help the JB weld stay intact. I was waiting on a new bumper from Gary's but it arrived cracker so back to them it went.

This was just a supposed to be a temperary solution until I got my new painted bumper.
Oh ok, it may be good in the short term, but for long term I would probably go with the repair fillers made for flexible bumpers.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:10 PM   #15
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I forgot to tell you it really looks good, you got some great rattle can painting skills.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:25 PM   #16
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I forgot to tell you it really looks good, you got some great rattle can painting skills.
Thanks. I just checked my fascia and where I used the JB weld the paint has wrinkled a little bit since the weather has gotten very cold. Good thing this was just an experiment and a temperary bumper (it's cracked at the bottom driver's side corner). I should have bought the flexible filler to begin with . Oh well, I had fun anyway.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:54 PM   #17
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Looks great! Nice results.


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Old 11-26-2012, 03:53 PM   #18
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Off topic but do you really have over 500,000 miles? LOL!
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:55 PM   #19
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Off topic but do you really have over 500,000 miles? LOL!
No.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:20 AM   #20
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No.
Well played sir, well played, lol!

Paint job looks great. I also cant stand front license plate holes, I went to great lengths to find a car that wasn't already drilled. And they ARE required in my state...

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Old 11-27-2012, 09:41 AM   #21
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Great job! LOVE the color!
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:08 AM   #22
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I am thinking about painting my body kit, would you recommend doing it with this method? Mine is IBM as well!
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:14 AM   #23
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I am thinking about painting my body kit, would you recommend doing it with this method? Mine is IBM as well!
I wouldn't recommend this method at all for anything other than parts like license plate frames, a rear spoiler, taillight bezels, and stuff like that.

My front bumper is being replaced and I just painted it to delete the front license plate holder holes until I get my new bumper cover (this one is cracked in the underside)

A nice thick paintjob by a shop using better quality paint is the only way to go for body parts that will be exposed to rock chips and bugs.

I would not do your side skirts with rattle cans.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:33 AM   #24
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I wouldn't recommend this method at all for anything other than parts like license plate frames, a rear spoiler, taillight bezels, and stuff like that.

My front bumper is being replaced and I just painted it to delete the front license plate holder holes until I get my new bumper cover (this one is cracked in the underside)

A nice thick paintjob by a shop using better quality paint is the only way to go for body parts that will be exposed to rock chips and bugs.

I would not do your side skirts with rattle cans.
I did it on my El Camino and never had a problem. If you prep and paint correctly it will look as good as a factory job and last almost as long. Plus it's 10 times cheaper to do.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:47 AM   #25
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I did it on my El Camino and never had a problem. If you prep and paint correctly it will look as good as a factory job and last almost as long. Plus it's 10 times cheaper to do.
It would be best if he can find a place that will put top grade basecoat in a rattle can. For me, IBM was only available to put in a rattle can in Dupont's lowest grade single stage machinery and equipment grade paint.

The clear is high quality though so maybe that will make all the difference. My rear spoiler will be the test for me. Looks to be fine so far.

Sometimes when you clear over single stage paints as I used that contain no hardener it will have a wrinkling reaction. None of what I painted did, so it's possible to do it. My paint match is real close too. And yes it's cheaper than labor costs at a shop.
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