02-06-2012, 09:27 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: WVA
Posts: 198
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how hard is it to change out rear diff?
i have a L99 with those 3:27 gears, and am wanting to change out to a M6 Rear diff with the 3:45 gears, like many have done on here
how hard is it? is there a DIY post? i looked and couldnt find any been wanting to do this for awhile to give the car more "oomph" you dont have to do a re tune to change this out do you?
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2010 2SS Flowmaster catback, K&N CAI, hurst shifter, 5k miles!
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02-06-2012, 11:26 PM | #2 |
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Drives: 2010 SS, 06 SRT10 Ram Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: C. America
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When I broke my stock differential I put in a upgraded jre one with 3.45 gears.
I'm guessing you mean the whole case. It's not very hard. Lift the car, take wheels and all off, take off pipes, unscrew bolts lower it, replace with new case. It's extremely simple. Yes you need a re tune because you will be changing gears. Your shift points, speedometer, everything will need to be re-tuned. |
02-07-2012, 06:03 AM | #3 | |
Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: WVA
Posts: 198
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Quote:
i was hoping thats all there was too it....was just worried that maybe some sensor might be different and not re-plug in, or something technical like that thanks for the response
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2010 2SS Flowmaster catback, K&N CAI, hurst shifter, 5k miles!
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02-07-2012, 09:10 AM | #4 |
Drives: CGM,twin turbo, cam 2010 SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: ROCKMART, GA
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rather simple really.
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02-07-2012, 10:03 AM | #5 |
Just a car guy
Drives: 2016 Durango R/T AWD Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Wheeling, IL
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Just to clarify, are you referring to the Diff Cover/Girdle, or the Entire Differential?
As I recall, there is not a lot of room to change anything, so you will have to drop your rear-end. That means pulling the exhaust off, etc.
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02-07-2012, 10:10 AM | #6 |
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Drives: 2011 2SS/RS/A6 cammed-n-whippled Join Date: Oct 2008
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with a buddy to help, it shouldn't be too hard....remove exhaust, axles, driveshaft and diff.
You'll need the right (big) socket for the axle nut (I think it's 32mm, but I'd confirm that first) and a torque wrench (and proper specs) to put it all back together correctly (unless you're just a "tighten the heck out of everything and go" type of guy). Use lock-tite on the driveshaft bolts...shouldn't really be any other surprises. And yes, tweak your tune to calibrate your speedometer.
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02-08-2012, 10:53 AM | #7 | |
Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: WVA
Posts: 198
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Quote:
just wanted to make sure it was a direct swap over....nothing like sensors that dont swap over, etc... thanks guys
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