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Old 02-20-2012, 04:57 PM   #1
EATIT
 
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rear speakers

I know this sounds lazy or something but........ Has anybody thought or has anyone actually tried to remove the rear speakers without taking it all apart? my thought looking at it is this, It might be possible to simply cut the rear speakers into pieces from the trunk side, once out, what would stop us from taking a 6x9 speaker and just hang it from underneath with some self tapping screws into the rear deck? I think with some dynamat or some gasket material between the speaker and the deck would also help with any vibration, sure they would hang a bit lower, but i really think this would work, its a thought, anyone want to comment? anybody see something i am missing that would shoot doing this down? I am just leary about taking so much aprt to change 2 speakers, not afraid of the work , afraid of damage!!!!
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:28 PM   #2
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You would create more damage doing it the way you want to than doing it the right way. There is a DIY write up on how to do it. Really easier than you think. Remove seat, remove back of seat, remove side panels, remove the rear pillars, the hardest part is the screw in the pillar, and then remove the back deck. I did mine in about 2 hours, start to finish. If you don't want to do it, take it to a car audio install shop and pay them to do it for you.
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:49 PM   #3
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ok, just seems like it could work, I will most likely do it the right way, just seeing if a short cut would work
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:18 AM   #4
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Or you could take out the rear window, cut holes in the deck, replace speakers, duct tape mesh over the holes and replace window. Done!

OK, j/k. Removing the trim really isn't hard at all. I did it without removing the side window trim because I didn't want to stop when I found I did not have the right torx to remove the seatbelt. Get the torx. It was a pain putting the deck back in.
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:56 AM   #5
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yeah, was just trying to come up with a short cut, will do it the right way, i was afraid of the airbag part, is there anything to know about working around that airbag. I would hate to have it deploy!!!!!!
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:06 AM   #6
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I removed all the trim and panel pieces last night. Just use steady gentle pressure when popping out the panels. A plastic trim tool is your friend. Make sure to have a 45 torx bit for the seatbelts. Be careful when removing the pieces as to not scratch the others. Lastly just be gentle around the airbag. Nothing to be afraid of, just remember at the back window end of that piece is a 7mm screw that needs removed.
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:47 AM   #7
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ok, it was mostly the airbag thing that scared me! sounds like i wont be shortcutting this operation!!!
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:24 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EATIT View Post
ok, it was mostly the airbag thing that scared me! sounds like i wont be shortcutting this operation!!!
This procedure doesn't interfere with the air bag at all. The black clip refered to in the DIY thread has nothing to do with the airbag other than that it is a tether for when the airbags were to be deployed, the trim piece won't become a projectile. Push the little tab down while pulling the tab towards the rear of the car.
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:41 PM   #9
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i thought it said something about a screw under the airbag or someting, oh well, you guys convinced me and will do it when ready to replace speakers
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
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i thought it said something about a screw under the airbag or someting, oh well, you guys convinced me and will do it when ready to replace speakers

That sthe 7mm screw I'm talking about. Its not beside the airbag , it's at the end of the interior piece that covers the airbag.
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:44 PM   #11
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No worries I did a DIY write up for the head liner but it details on how to remove all the back sections of the car. it will not deploy the air bag.
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:10 PM   #12
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ok, thanks!!!!!!!!!! if it does deploy I am coming back here and saying I told you so!!!!
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:43 PM   #13
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so those of you that did do this, why did you do it? to replace 6x9s as your only midbass/bass driver (i.e. subs), or to replace them as drivers dedicated to mids only? i'd be curious if the former, how the sound compares to stock. basically a "should i just replace the 6x9s in my car or should i add a subwoofer instead" discussion. subwoofer makes the most sense, but then you may easily lose the audible recognition of your rear parking sensors if they can't play through the 6x9s.
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:21 AM   #14
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I don't think you lose any stock audio features if you use the FARK. Not sure, I don't have the backup sensors.
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:34 AM   #15
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Im replacing them with 6.5" JL VR's. I had my whole system laying around from my titan and just figured I'd put in my car. Wasn't gonna replace them all and add a sub etc. without doing the rear speakers. Kinda be dumb. I have the backup sensors on my 2010 but cant tell ya whether I lost them or not yet cause I'm not finished with the Install. I would imagine with the FARK kit using the factory wiring that I wouldn't, but I've been wrong before.
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CWIweldace View Post
I don't think you lose any stock audio features if you use the FARK. Not sure, I don't have the backup sensors.
that's not what i said...the FARK harness has nothing at all whatsoever to do with my question. backup sensors go through the rear speakers. if you disable them and run a subwoofer instead, you probably won't hear the backup sensors since the sub will be in your trunk AND you will have a LPF on the sub.

still might be worth giving up the audible sensors if the sub option sounds that much better than just replacing 6x9s, which was my original question.
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:14 PM   #17
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As I am in the process of installing a complete after market set up and am using the FARK. I will give you my 2 cents

First the why.
I will be adding a sub for the low freq's and limiting the freq's of the 6x9's to mid bass. this is to be able to better control the levels and to give me a much deeper harder hitting bass curve.
now the what.
I will be installing a new amp and new 6x9's the new 6x9's I will be using are the SoundStream SST6.9 these come with crossovers and separate wiring for the tweeters. if I am not mistaken the fark has the ability to add a secondary amp (VIA the RCA's) and still use the factory BA amp. Thus giving me the ability to still retain my back up sensors by keeping the BA amp. AND get the benefit of driving a stronger cleaner signal to my 6x9's larger cone

AND in closing.. due to the inherent properties of a true subwoofer vs. a 6x9.. your subwoofer will always deliver the lower freq's way better then a 6x9.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:55 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soundplus View Post
As I am in the process of installing a complete after market set up and am using the FARK. I will give you my 2 cents

First the why.
I will be adding a sub for the low freq's and limiting the freq's of the 6x9's to mid bass. this is to be able to better control the levels and to give me a much deeper harder hitting bass curve.
now the what.
I will be installing a new amp and new 6x9's the new 6x9's I will be using are the SoundStream SST6.9 these come with crossovers and separate wiring for the tweeters. if I am not mistaken the fark has the ability to add a secondary amp (VIA the RCA's) and still use the factory BA amp. Thus giving me the ability to still retain my back up sensors by keeping the BA amp. AND get the benefit of driving a stronger cleaner signal to my 6x9's larger cone

AND in closing.. due to the inherent properties of a true subwoofer vs. a 6x9.. your subwoofer will always deliver the lower freq's way better then a 6x9.
it's just a lot of unnecessary money if you ask me. any true audiophile will tell you that all you need in a car is a front stage (2 components) in the front doors, and a subwoofer (or 2 or 3, etc.). if your components are good, they will play all the midbass and highs that you need, and the subwoofer will provide you with all the bass you need. you can do all of this with a proper 4/3/2 channel amp.

the real question is whether or not 2 quality 6x9s are easier/more convenient/comparable to 1 subwoofer in our cars.
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Old 05-30-2013, 08:16 PM   #19
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i am in the process of improving my sound system. really kind of sad that GM pontificates about how great its Boston sound system is when it is only a crappy chinese made system.
well to the short version.
found a nice adapter from subthump.. looks like it will much easier to do this in the future..
you stll have to destroy the speakers to get them out but sure beats the heck out of removing the entire rear of the car..
you can run the wires very easily by just removing the rear seat...

i prefer easy instead of hard..lol
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:06 PM   #20
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did the work and made the speaker adapter that fits up through the bottom of the deck from the trunk..
No need to do all the crap removal to install nice speakers..
It is simple and very easy..
Yes you do have to destroy the cheezy rear boston junk speaker but you dont
have to disassemble the entire rear of the car..
I have currently replaced the 6x9 speakers with 6.5 inch Focal speakers with a place for the tweeters on the same board and it sounds fantastic..

you do make a mess when removing the old POS boston speaker but a little clean up and it is good..

I have already done this and it works..

the adapter panels are 1/4 inch ABS and can be made in either 6x9 or for 6.5 or even 5.5 speakers with or without holes for tweeters.. (the tweeters either require an accurate measurement or you using a hole saw..
these are done on a precision waterjet and look very good..
easy is better....
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:26 PM   #21
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The rear panel is a pain to get back on but just do it the right way!
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:34 PM   #22
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just unplug the rears, you'll be surprised how good a front stage is by just upgrading/amping just your fronts. And add a sub later on.
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