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Old 03-04-2012, 07:46 PM   #15
Elykson
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Are these made in China?
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010_camaro View Post
I had one issue with my OBX's The resinators (cant spell) came lose inside and it made a sound like that. I took them off and rewelded them.
You mean the cores(on the pic) came off the weld inside the resonator?

I know I have a leak right on that same resonator connection that will not go away no matter what I do, but I'm not sure if the noise I am describing could be associated with that leak. I know I heard plenty of exhaust leaks before and it doesn't sound nothing like what I am experiencing.
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:15 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Elykson View Post
Are these made in China?
I believe so, hence the complaints about the "rusting" stainless. Chinese Stainless...

Quote:
Originally Posted by OBX.com
COMMITTED TO INVESTMENT WORLDWIDE OBX is committed to be on the cutting edge of technology by investing in research and development; new mould development and innovative designs with CAD/CAM centers worldwide.

STATE OF THE ART DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY OBX Organization, along with global partners and affiliates are capable of manufacturing products such as: Stainless steel rolling, stamping; aluminum die casting, extrusion, CNC, center machining, mould cutting forging; fiberglass moulds, plastic injections, JIG designs, 3D mandrel bending, and CAD/CAM designing.
http://www.obxracingsports.com/about_us.php

If made in the USA, most mfg's know that it is a selling point and advertise as Made in the USA.
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:22 AM   #18
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yes the weld breaks. and yes they are made in China lol but im fine with china when it saved me 500 bucks lol
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:37 AM   #19
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Bmore and Hope - Both are you are MDers. How do you get around emissions? I ask because I'm on edge on buying some longtubes and the ones with hiflow are loads more than OBX.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:32 AM   #20
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yes the weld breaks. and yes they are made in China lol but im fine with china when it saved me 500 bucks lol
You are fine with a cheap product that breaks? I personally would spend a little more on a American made product with a good warranty. For example Doug Thorley has lifetime warranty on all their headers and ceramic coatings.

As for the OBX steel I have been trying to find out about SUS 304, seems that SUS is an Asian grading, anything with SUS that I found comes from China. 304 can also be called 18/8 stainless. The Gateway Arch is made of 304 stainless steel. So proper SS should not rust such as the OBX headers. 300 series steel is also non magnetic. 400 series is magnetic.

Just found this:

Why 409 type Stainless Steel pipes and shells?
-409 type Stainless Steel is specially designed for automotive exhaust systems.
-409 type Stainless Steel resists atmospheric and automotive exhaust gas corrosion.
-409 type Stainless Steel developes a light surface discoloring which will retard progressive corrosion.
-409 type Stainless Steel contains 10.5%...11.75% Chromium

Why 304(14G) type Stainless Steel tips, flanges, internals and brackets?
-304 type Stainless Steel contains 18%...20% Chromium and 8%...10.5% Nickel.
-304 type Stainless Steel has excellent heat, oxidation and corrosion resistance.
-304 type Stainless Steel Looks great and will shine for ever!

How to clean Stainless Steel .
-409 type Stainless Steel can be cleaned with non metallic pot scrub pads and soap, ammonia, liquid or powder detergent.
-304 type Stainless Steel can be cleaned with non metallic non abrasive cleaning pads or brushes with soap or liquid detergent, use "Chrome polish" if necessary.
-Do not clean with Steel Wool or a Steel Brush ---> surface rust will result.
*************
The most common stainless steel used by muffler shop is the T-409.
Borla uses T-304 stainless steel grade. It's why the price is so different. A Borla looks great and will shine for ever!
T-409 is good for peoples who live where there are no calcium or where the corrosion is not a problem.
T-304 is for north american and canadian peoples who want to keep their cars for more than 3 years in a corrosive environment"

Last edited by Synergy1911; 03-05-2012 at 01:44 AM.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:40 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grimlock View Post
Bmore and Hope - Both are you are MDers. How do you get around emissions? I ask because I'm on edge on buying some longtubes and the ones with hiflow are loads more than OBX.
To be honest I was going to chance it. There's no more tailpipe inspection in md. Just obd and visual. I know plenty of peoples who pass every year with no problems as long as your emission readiness is good which you can check with a obd scanner before you go. if all fail I guess I will have to put the factory header back on within 3 months. I was going to only use the obx until end of this year and replace with another long tube with high flow cats but it look like I will be doing that sooner than I thought.
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:24 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Synergy1911 View Post
I believe so, hence the complaints about the "rusting" stainless. Chinese Stainless.
I don't know about rusting. Here is a pic of my OBX headers. I need to get out some polish & see what cleans off. These have been on my car for a year, so they've seen snow & salt for 2 seasons. My car is a daily driver. I don't really see any rust here, just a little bit of surface corrosion & you're going to have that with any grade stainless

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Old 03-05-2012, 01:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synergy1911 View Post
You are fine with a cheap product that breaks? I personally would spend a little more on a American made product with a good warranty. For example Doug Thorley has lifetime warranty on all their headers and ceramic coatings.

As for the OBX steel I have been trying to find out about SUS 304, seems that SUS is an Asian grading, anything with SUS that I found comes from China. 304 can also be called 18/8 stainless. The Gateway Arch is made of 304 stainless steel. So proper SS should not rust such as the OBX headers. 300 series steel is also non magnetic. 400 series is magnetic.

Just found this:

Why 409 type Stainless Steel pipes and shells?
-409 type Stainless Steel is specially designed for automotive exhaust systems.
-409 type Stainless Steel resists atmospheric and automotive exhaust gas corrosion.
-409 type Stainless Steel developes a light surface discoloring which will retard progressive corrosion.
-409 type Stainless Steel contains 10.5%...11.75% Chromium

Why 304(14G) type Stainless Steel tips, flanges, internals and brackets?
-304 type Stainless Steel contains 18%...20% Chromium and 8%...10.5% Nickel.
-304 type Stainless Steel has excellent heat, oxidation and corrosion resistance.
-304 type Stainless Steel Looks great and will shine for ever!

How to clean Stainless Steel .
-409 type Stainless Steel can be cleaned with non metallic pot scrub pads and soap, ammonia, liquid or powder detergent.
-304 type Stainless Steel can be cleaned with non metallic non abrasive cleaning pads or brushes with soap or liquid detergent, use "Chrome polish" if necessary.
-Do not clean with Steel Wool or a Steel Brush ---> surface rust will result.
*************
The most common stainless steel used by muffler shop is the T-409.
Borla uses T-304 stainless steel grade. It's why the price is so different. A Borla looks great and will shine for ever!
T-409 is good for peoples who live where there are no calcium or where the corrosion is not a problem.
T-304 is for north american and canadian peoples who want to keep their cars for more than 3 years in a corrosive environment"

Even our American made cars have isolated issues, there are quite a few that have had 0 problems with their OBX headers. Also it sounds like OBX is using the same stainless you mention others are too, not sure about the grading system you mention. I have had mine going on a year in a couple of months with zero problems.

I put the rest in pm Bmore, good luck hopefully you track it down soon. Sounds like the resonator might be good info since you already noticed a issue in that area.
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:09 PM   #24
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Thanks oolie, got your pm

Been chasing this noise for almost a year. This same exact noise just got magnified about 2x ever since the new cam phase adjustment we are doing right now.

This is what I'm thinking. There's no doubt that my header is noisy. Now I don't know if I just happen to get a bad one or there's a possibility that I could be dealing with a leak that is almost impossible to find, maybe the cores got unloose as 2010_camaro said had happened to him before. Whatever the case might be, I been dealing with this hissing of air flowing through the header accompanied with what sound like a rattle snake tail rattling. I swear sometimes it sound like there's a rattle snake in my engine LOL. It hiss and rattle just like a rattle snake when I accelerate only on part throttle. Maybe it also does it on wot but I can't hear it, because on wot my engine and exhaust noise overtake everything.

Now the new cam phase adjustment increase VE by filling in the cylinders with extra air, so it compress much more increasing dynamic compression and gives a bigger power stroke which mean the hot gas should also exit with that much more force and volume. So if this is the case, then this might be the reason why my noisy header sound that much more noisier now. I'm waiting for vince to get back to me on this so I guess I will find out if my theory is correct.

I can't believe I been dealing with this for almost a year LOL.
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:29 PM   #25
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Sounds like you may be closing in on it possibly. I will say I have always heard the air rushing through especially when it shifts, but always just contributed it to the additional flow. If the flow is dramatically changed as you stated with the tune, then I would think every little sound would maybe blown up too. T

he rattle sound has me baffled though.
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:00 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmorecam View Post
To be honest I was going to chance it. There's no more tailpipe inspection in md. Just obd and visual. I know plenty of peoples who pass every year with no problems as long as your emission readiness is good which you can check with a obd scanner before you go. if all fail I guess I will have to put the factory header back on within 3 months. I was going to only use the obx until end of this year and replace with another long tube with high flow cats but it look like I will be doing that sooner than I thought.
Even with any longtube it will be the same fight cats or not but we will just have to give it a shot with the tune.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:38 PM   #27
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Yeah I wouldn't want to dance the emissions with this set up. I am glad where I live. Hopefully you don't have to change out to totally. I guess it just depends on how specific the tests are
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:05 PM   #28
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all they do it plug in to the obd so we will see. the only problem is im afraid of is the smell of catless lol
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