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Old 03-12-2012, 10:31 AM   #26
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WOW!! Have been at the Gator Nationals and just got back....have to say frst I'm sorry, but I can find anywhere in the instructions where it states to install the lines backwards, and I am always available via PM, email, or phone to help any that need....with over 10,000 of these sold and installed over the past9-10 years some do have difficulty and thats why were here to help and this community has tons that always jump on to help.

We continue to update instructions when we get feedback from customers on how they think we can improve them, but the principal of installing a can is pretty straight forward.

I have to ask, why would anyone not contact us for help if they have any doubt?

I have at times even been up at midnight or later helpping customers on the west coast when they need. Again, our appologies for any confusion and please let us know which instructions (different for different makes/models/motors/mods) and what page so we can edit in any way to help.
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:50 AM   #27
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I just read through each instruction and can't find where it states to hook the can up backwards:


2010 Camaro installation

First thing is to understand the concept. The RX oil separating catchcan plumbs simply inline between the intake manifold vacuum nipple (passenger side of the intake manifold snout) and the valley cover fitting on the LS3, or the line running to the rear of the drivers side valve cover:


Note: The center fitting of the can is the inlet, and this will run to either the valley cover fitting (just below the intake manifold vac nipple on the LS3) or the rear of the drivers side valve cover.
(on the LS3 this tube is removed) The outlet is the outer fitting and connects to the intake

Thats the V8 version,

And the V6:

Note: The mount can attach to either the radiator shroud bolt or the bolt shown here that the engine cover stud. With the can mounted, run the hoses as shown. The fittings both turn to orient as needed. The center fitting of the can is the inlet, and runs to the end terminating at the rear of the passenger valve cover. The outlet connects to the intake manifold vacuum source.

These are the instructions supplied with the catchcan kits.....so I'm confused.

I ask if anyone wants to contribute suggestions to improving the instructions please do, but dont attack with such insults. Most here know I go ot of my way to always help any with questions or issues on any subject, all one needs to do is ask.

We may look at something so simple as installing one of these as so simple instructions should not even ne needed, but were looking at it from a tech standpoint and realize even the most simple things can be complicated for those that have no knowledge of motors and cars, but please ask....dont just jump and attack.



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Old 03-12-2012, 11:14 AM   #28
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i concur.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:25 AM   #29
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The installation of the Elite Catch Can were very simple and straight forward. I believe what helps with the Elite is that one valve is on the side of the can. Less likely to screw up this way. As long as you can get the correct hose connected at the engine you got it made!!
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:20 PM   #30
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The RX can is the only one on the market with the flow controlling check valve.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:54 PM   #31
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Hope it all goes good when I install mine.
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:58 PM   #32
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Lets see......over 10,000 in use, have been making and shipping these for over 9 years, and probably only a dozen or so have not been able to install them following the instructions so you should be fine. If not, you all know I am easy to reach to help.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:17 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Virus View Post
Hope it all goes good when I install mine.

In the most basic terms I can think of (I used this method myself) when installing this catch can without the instructions.

The "flow" of "oil" goes from POINT A (Drivers side rear of motor) to POINT B (the black nipple behind the throttle body) and all you are doing is "Interrupting" that flow by placing a "filter" in between those two points hence an "INLET" and an "OUTLET" on the can itself.

Hope that makes sense.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:18 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
Lets see......over 10,000 in use, have been making and shipping these for over 9 years, and probably only a dozen or so have not been able to install them following the instructions so you should be fine. If not, you all know I am easy to reach to help.
Will these cans work on an '08 Silverado 1500 with the 5.3L?
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:22 PM   #35
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Excellent way to simplify it nutro. Just think of the flow. The intake manifold provides the suction to draw the vapors from the crankcase.

Yes, we have truck instructions also.

We sell a ton of these to fleet owners of light trucks and vans and they see on average 1-3 mpg improvment (thats all they buy them for).

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Old 03-12-2012, 08:33 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutro View Post
In the most basic terms I can think of (I used this method myself) when installing this catch can without the instructions.

The "flow" of "oil" goes from POINT A (Drivers side rear of motor) to POINT B (the black nipple behind the throttle body) and all you are doing is "Interrupting" that flow by placing a "filter" in between those two points hence an "INLET" and an "OUTLET" on the can itself.

Hope that makes sense.
Does the check-valve positioning come into play here? Or is it built-in to the actual can so it can't be put in backwards?

If built into the can, should it be on the centre nipple or the side nipple?
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:53 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by LBV View Post
Does the check-valve positioning come into play here? Or is it built-in to the actual can so it can't be put in backwards?

If built into the can, should it be on the centre nipple or the side nipple?
Just curious, if put in "backwards" or incorrectly somehow, would this necessarily blow out the "rear main or seal" or whatever...?
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:50 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
WOW!! Have been at the Gator Nationals and just got back....have to say frst I'm sorry, but I can find anywhere in the instructions where it states to install the lines backwards, and I am always available via PM, email, or phone to help any that need....with over 10,000 of these sold and installed over the past9-10 years some do have difficulty and thats why were here to help and this community has tons that always jump on to help.

We continue to update instructions when we get feedback from customers on how they think we can improve them, but the principal of installing a can is pretty straight forward.

I have to ask, why would anyone not contact us for help if they have any doubt?

I have at times even been up at midnight or later helpping customers on the west coast when they need. Again, our appologies for any confusion and please let us know which instructions (different for different makes/models/motors/mods) and what page so we can edit in any way to help.

First off, I quoted the directions exactly as they were typed or printed on the instructions I received. Secondly, you guys built a great product from what I can see - but whoever wrote the instructions, I will maintain, is an idiot. They didn't identify everything clearly enough. "This fitting HERE is the intake manifold...this fitting HERE is the lifter valley, etc" and no connect to "this OR that" - your instructions clearly say that. Thirdly, I'm not the only one that feels the instructions were horrible. When a large number of people have to discard the provided instructions and search all over the forum and on YouTube to find more concise installation instructions - the problem isn't me. Fourth, I didn't know that calling you on a Saturday for help was even an option. Fifth, I'm not an idiot (other than for not heeding my own good sense) as I installed a camshaft, LS2-style timing chain conversion, rocker arm trunions conversion, hardened pushrods, full-length headers, and full exhaust all in one weekend, in 12 hours on my car without an ounce of valvetrain noise or issues, and got 450 rwhp after a custom tune on a chassis dyno.

I appreciate the words of sympathy from some of you that have endured these instructions as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LSX-80MM View Post
Hey Ace I got sum good news for ya..I would very seriously doubt that you've gotta replace the rearmain seal,just clean up the mess,may have to do it acouple of times to get it all,but you should be fine.....really...
I will try that - I have been hoping that oil just blew past it, and it didn't necessarily push out the seal. Thanks for the advice. I'll keep you guys posted.

Sam
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:26 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by 90503 View Post
Just curious, if put in "backwards" or incorrectly somehow, would this necessarily blow out the "rear main or seal" or whatever...?
To answer both questions. The check valve is in the fiiting near the edge of the can.

If you connect the line backwards the valve would create an unwanted blockage. Excess pressure has to be released somehow. That said it's most curious that it wouldn't wind up going back through the fresh air side or do like on engines with check valve PCV valves and run rough.

OP can we see the set of instructions you received so other can be given a heads up?
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:11 PM   #40
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A monkey with a screwdriver could install that can...it's pretty simple.
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:34 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace1USMC View Post
I hope people will read this BEFORE attempting to install their RX Catch Can...

The instructions that are provided are THE WORST INSTRUCTIONS EVER SEEN BY HUMANS. THE ABSOLUTE WORST, and in fact, FLAT-OUT WRONG.

They tell you that this...and I QUOTE:

"The center fitting on the can goes to the nipple on the intake manifold snout on the pass side, and then the outer valve fitting to the rear of the drivers side valve cover"

THIS IS WRONG! Don't do this under any circumstances, or you'll wind up doing what happened to my car - BLOWN OUT REAR MAIN OIL SEAL!!!!!!

I am more than a little upset that I didn't use my own judgement and experience, and instead, followed the directions from idiots. Modern cars NEED the vacuum pulling the pressure from the crankcase, and there is no vacuum created at the valve cover to pull the pressure from the fitting going down into the lifter valley/crankcase. The whole time I was following these instructions, little alarms and bells were going off in my head, and I kept thinking "How can this possibly work right???" Well, I fired up the engine, went for a test drive, got on it going from 1st to 2nd gear, and came back into my driveway. Got out to look for leaks, and a POOL of oil was pouring out from between the transmission and engine.

These guys are complete, utter idiots for providing such HORRIBLE instructions, but I'm the bigger fool for listening to idiots that clearly don't understand a thing about engines.

I'll be posting in the main section all of this to make sure people know to NOT follow these instructions, and instead, follow these...

1. Remove the plastic engine cover.
2. Slowly and carefully, unbolt the single lower tensioner pulley bracket bolt (15mm). Do this slowly so that the bracket stays in place - otherwise, you'll be dealing with putting the belt back on. If there's any tension on the bolt as it's ready to slide out - DON'T REMOVE IT! It will mean the bracket is gonna turn if you pull the bolt outta the threads. If this is the case, then first remove the belt, then proceed.
3. Install the bracket.
4. Install the catch can on the bracket.
5. Remove the plastic line that runs from the line going down into the front pass side of the lifter valley running to the intake manifold directly behind the throttle body. It's easy - just push in at the fittings, and turn the little tab and then pull out.
6. Run a piece of hose from the now-exposed steel nipple (the one running down into the lifter valley) to the center of the catch can.
7. Run another piece of hose from the black plastic nipple just behind the throttle body to the outer valve on the catch can.

That's it. These retards at RX made such an easy install so difficult with insane, obscure pictures, and wrong instructions.

Now, I gotta park my car for a few weeks until I can pull the transmission and flywheel to replace the blown-out rear main seal.

Sam
Hi Sam,

We've sold and installed a lot of RX catch-cans and haven't had any issues. The instructions for the catch-cans are pretty straight forward. Do you have an LS3 or L99? I'm assuming you have an L99 since you were coming off of the DS valve cover on the dirty side. The Center fitting (Clean Side) does connect to the Manifold on the passenger side behind the TB; that is where the vacuum is created.

The rear mains do go in these cars naturally and it may be a warranty issue of it is an issue at all. Please feel free to call, email or PM me anytime with questions. Good luck getting it fixed.

Kind regards,

Jordan Priestley
888.308.6007
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:02 AM   #42
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**RX Catchcan Install-DIY**

I am close to a monkey and did it... No error codes either. I have noticed something interesting though... people are running these without hose clamps and I think that is a recipe for an air leak. Correct me if I am wrong. See the link and trash me if you like.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=522

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Old 03-21-2012, 01:49 AM   #43
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I am close to a monkey and did it... No error codes either. I have noticed something interesting though... people are running these without hose clamps and I think that is a recipe for an air leak. Correct me if I am wrong. See the link and trash me if you like.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=522
I have questioned it myself, but have been told that hose clamps are not needed. I am going to add them anyway for good measure.
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:11 PM   #44
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I just revieved my RX catch can, no instructions or hose clamps, took almost 3 weeks to arrive. Please help me out, no one answers the phone!
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:29 PM   #45
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Hose clamps are not needed. Been running mine for over 50k miles with no clamps. Can works great.
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:45 PM   #46
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dude ..... that sucks...

I'm sorry to hear that....

I installed mine without issues .... easy day.
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Old 04-19-2013, 04:02 PM   #47
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Hi Joep,

Clamps are not needed on the RX or the other good cans out there, so we dont include them. We have over 11,000 of these in use and the few times there has been a leak it is a broken fitting or drain left open.

Should be a note in each box explaining the instructions are on our website (if not, our fault and we appologize):

www.RevXtreme.com

look in the lower left corner, under information...click on instructions:

http://www.revxtreme.com/index.php?r...ormation_id=10

Should be all you need. If in a jam, we can walk you through it.

We have been trying to not raise the pricing on these so we have post instructions online to save on print cost. 2-3 week lead time is about right.....we are swamped with overwhelimng demand for these and the other products we manufacture, but are tooling up again to increase to meet demand so it's getting much better.

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Old 04-26-2013, 11:24 AM   #48
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Vacuum lines never need clamps. They are not holding pressure. The vacuum actually pulls the seal tighter.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:08 AM   #49
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I am a female, and I installed mine over a year ago with no problems. If I had any questions, I emailed Tracy and he was more than obliging to help me.
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:00 PM   #50
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just my 2 cents bought an RX catchcan from a forum member, broke one of the fittings installing it. Called RX to buy a replacement fitting Tracey didnt sent me one for free didnt even charge postage didnt ask any questions to me thats superservice RX rocks they will have my business for sure
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