Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
HeadlightArmor
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Engine | Drivetrain | Powertrain Technical Discussions > Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons

Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-20-2012, 10:34 AM   #1
newagemuscle
Philippians 4:13
 
newagemuscle's Avatar
 
Drives: SLP Supercharged LS3
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The Motor City - Michigan
Posts: 2,524
Doing my Kooks LT install... any words of advice before I get started?

I doing my Kooks LT's and high flow cat install this weekend. For those of you that have been through this... anyone have some words of advice? I will be doing this in my garage with the help of my bro.

Thanks
__________________
newagemuscle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 10:37 AM   #2
The Stig
knows 2 facts about ducks
 
The Stig's Avatar
 
Drives: ...and they're both wrong
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 26,690
Whenever you think you have the car jacked up high enough - raise it another click on the jackstands. The rear header bolt on the driver's side is a PIA. If you have a swivel socket or like a 1/4" drive it makes it a lot easier.
__________________
Click to view my build thread
The Stig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 11:06 AM   #3
Cpanthers85
 
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS RS
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 439
if your headers have the dual bungs for the O2 sensor and the wide band, make sure if you are not running the wide band, that the O2 sensor goes in the front one, not the rear one. You will know it fit because the O2 sensor will have more than a fingers width clearance. My headers came backwards and it was a PITA to fix it once I had the headers all bolted up.
__________________
2011 2SS/RS L99
2009 Cobalt SS
1979 Z28

Mods: Kooks Long Tube Headers, RotoFaB EForce CAI, American Thunder Catback Exhaust, PFADT Stage 1 Drag Kit + Front Sway Bar, GM Strut Tower Bar. ZL1 Fuel Pump. Nitto NT05R. RX Catch Can.LS9 Cam and Springs.LS3 Conversion.JRE Fuel Rail Upgrade.Edelbrock Eforce.60# Eforce Injectors.Extreme Racing Tune. 523/495

MY BUILD THREAD
Cpanthers85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 11:19 AM   #4
kaler
 
kaler's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 Dodge 3500 dually Mega Cab
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: discovery bay,ca
Posts: 668
Make sure your local dealer has at least one 02 sensor in stock,there is a good chance one will get fubar when removing them. Put a small amount of anti seize on the 02 threads when re installing.
__________________
2010 SS a6 with TSP VVT-3 cam,PRC ported heads,Yank 3200,Kooks and CAI inc. = +121 RWHP 1/4 mile 12.1 E.T. On P-Zero Tires.
kaler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 11:33 AM   #5
caverman


 
caverman's Avatar
 
Drives: '69 SS Convertible
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,066
I took a sharpie and put a little arrow next to where the dip stick went in. When I intially looked at it I said..."easy, right in front of the starter"....but because everyone mentioned what a PITA it was to find after it was out I decided to put a mark anyway. That saved my butt! Even with the mark you'll still have a little issue with getting back in properly but at least you'll know where it goes. This is a must IMO. Put a mark next to where it goes!

I know this sounds stupid but no one ever mentioned that the dip stick is bolted to the block right around the spark plugs. I assumed it was underneath and took me a little to figure out it was unbolted from up top...not underneath.

Other than the dip stick, the only other real issue I had was getting the steering knuckle back on to the gear box. Trick is to make sure to spread apart the clamp that connects it to the gearbox. I had to hold the steering knuckle up against the side of the car while someone else used a screwdriver and hammer to try to bend the clamp out a little. Goes back on pretty easy once you do that. That was on a set of ARH headers though. You may not have to take the knuckle off for KOOKS. That cost me a good 30-45 min to deal with. If you can get the driver's side in with the steering in tack you'll save some time but don't beat up your headers trying to force it up there. That ceramic coating is beatuy and you don't want to scratch it up. Take off the knuckle if needed.

If you can warm the car up, then get it up on stands or a lift, immedially break loose the O2 sensors. The extra heat in the exhaust should help get them loose.

When you put the rear O2 sensors back in, go a head and un-plug them. Otherwise the wires get all twisted up. The plugs have a safety latch type thing. Slight pain to get off. I think I just cut them and didn't put the safety thing back on. It's a little piece of plastic so easy enough to cut.

Make sure to use Anti-seeze on your bolts and O2 sensor threads when putting them back in. Also, I took the header bolts and touched them up on the the wire wheel of my bench grinder. Just takes the top layer of junk off so they'll go in easier.

Edit: post up if you have to take the steering knuckle off or not. I didn't put my KOOKS on because I got a package deal to install with purchase. If you don't have to take the knuckle off that would definatley give KOOKS a slight advantage over ARH for those trying to decide on which one to buy.
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal
caverman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 12:31 PM   #6
wbdinger

 
wbdinger's Avatar
 
Drives: NSMNJW=2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Exshaw Alberta Canada
Posts: 1,163
#1 disconnect the negative battery cable on the battery as to not short out the exhaust on the starter post !
__________________
DYI Oil Catch Can,DYI dash ABL,DyI fender "V"emblems,ACC Plasma DRL,
DYI Painted red SS on steering wheel,
DYI CGM painted bowties on wheels,
DYI Clearcoated Brake Calipers,
Eibach pro 1" lowering springs,
GM Heratige grill,
GM skipshift eliminator,
GMPP 92206992 Exhaust
2-10" Kenwood subs w/350watt pioneer amp
RiderGraphics hood spears/gill outlines
wbdinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 12:50 PM   #7
sscamaro

 
sscamaro's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Denver,PA
Posts: 1,879
Use OEM header gaskets, not Kooks gaskets.
__________________
2010 2SS/RS Victory Red, MN6, 1-7/8 Kooks LT Headers, SLP Axle Back, Edelbrock E-Force S/C, ZL1 Fuel Pump, 72# Injectors, JRE fuel rail upgrade, Roto-Fab CAI, Elite Catch Can, Billet Hurst Shifter, DSS 1000HP axles, Spohn Trailing Arms, Toe Links, Lower Control Arms. 546/rwhp & 522/rwtq Tune by Jeremy Formato.
sscamaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 12:54 PM   #8
Cpanthers85
 
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS RS
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 439
Quote:
Originally Posted by sscamaro View Post
Use OEM header gaskets, not Kooks gaskets.
+1
__________________
2011 2SS/RS L99
2009 Cobalt SS
1979 Z28

Mods: Kooks Long Tube Headers, RotoFaB EForce CAI, American Thunder Catback Exhaust, PFADT Stage 1 Drag Kit + Front Sway Bar, GM Strut Tower Bar. ZL1 Fuel Pump. Nitto NT05R. RX Catch Can.LS9 Cam and Springs.LS3 Conversion.JRE Fuel Rail Upgrade.Edelbrock Eforce.60# Eforce Injectors.Extreme Racing Tune. 523/495

MY BUILD THREAD
Cpanthers85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 01:46 PM   #9
mpyle007
 
mpyle007's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS L99
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 301
ditto. Buy two extra o2 sensors. If you don't need them take them back. Disconnect the battery cable and be careful not to hit the headers on your spark plugs if you dont fully remove them. Install is easy though. Buy a tirque wrench if you dont have one to torque the bolts down to factory specs. I didnt put my o2 sensors back in because they were bypassed.
__________________
2011 Camaro 2SS L99 A6
Rotofab CAI w/ race scoop
TSP Long tube headers w/ high flow cats and full x-pipe
GMPP axle back exhaust system
Custom Dyno tune by ARD (Advanced Racing Dynamics)
BMR 1.4" Springs all four corners

"There is no replacement for displacement"
mpyle007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 01:50 PM   #10
JDP Tech

 
JDP Tech's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/RS 429 LSX/F1X
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sandy, UT
Posts: 427
Quote:
Originally Posted by sscamaro View Post
Use OEM header gaskets, not Kooks gaskets.
+2


Also, when taking out the factory O2 sensors, if they get tight coming out, then turn them back in and go back and forth until they are out. 97 times out of a hundred you can get them out this way without needing to replace them. Then as has been mentioned, use anti-sieze when you reinstall them.

Also use anti-sieze on the header bolts. Many people use lock-tite, but you can screw up the threads if you take them out and in again. There is still some factory lock-tite inside the threads in the head, adding more will just make it more difficult and could cause problems down the road.

We always use GM exhaust gaskets and Kooks bolts with anti-sieze.

Feel free to call, email, or PM us anytime!
- Jeremy
JDP Tech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 02:28 PM   #11
justa25thTA

 
justa25thTA's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS/RS LS3
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,632
I managed to get the one O2 sensor off that was stubborn by using wd40 and an open ended wrench. I got it to move a bit, sprayed with wd40, wiggled it and kept going. Eventually worked its way out. Had to clean up the threads quite a bit, but it worked.
__________________
Yeah, I'll get around to it...
justa25thTA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 02:45 PM   #12
MikeOD

 
Drives: 2010 M6 2SS
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Manchester, CT
Posts: 1,169
Other than disconnecting the steering shaft from the rack (which is easy), in order to slide the header in, and then putting it back when I was done, I found the Kooks longtube install to be very very smooth sailing on my car. No problems or issues at all, everything fits great.
__________________

2010 Camaro SS M6. Heads/Cam/Intake/Headers/Exhaust/Suspension
MikeOD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 07:15 PM   #13
newagemuscle
Philippians 4:13
 
newagemuscle's Avatar
 
Drives: SLP Supercharged LS3
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The Motor City - Michigan
Posts: 2,524
Quote:
Originally Posted by sscamaro View Post
Use OEM header gaskets, not Kooks gaskets.
Just picked the OEM ones on the way home from work.
__________________
newagemuscle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 08:09 PM   #14
litle88
V8 Lounge member #2
 
litle88's Avatar
 
Drives: 2001 Ws6
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Burbank,IL
Posts: 6,353
I found this article reallllllly helpful when I did my brothers lt's

http://www.planetlsx.com/tech/How_To...0_Camaro_SS/98
__________________
01 Ws6, m6, ASC#618 of 1583,40k Miles,shortblock built by AES the rest built by me,Ls3 416,FAST 102, NW102,LPE Ls3 heads

Join us:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/5138...3848358733509/
litle88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 03:13 AM   #15
Sebastian
 
Sebastian's Avatar
 
Drives: Camaro 2011, 6.2L 2SS
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Saudi Arabia
Posts: 301
my advise: be patient! specially on passenger side. get yourself the time to fix it properly. dont be in a hurry, hurry just costs money for new parts!!
Sebastian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 04:03 AM   #16
hawaiianboy
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS SIM
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian View Post
my advise: be patient! specially on passenger side. get yourself the time to fix it properly. dont be in a hurry, hurry just costs money for new parts!!
Exactly. Better to take your time and do it right the first time. It took me 6hrs to install my kooks LTs and no issues whatsoever. One thing I did that helped me when I was lining up the oem cat-back to the hi flow cats/headers. I put a piece of 3/4" thick wood spacer under the cat-back over the tunnel brace to lift it up. It made it sit almost perfectly aligned when I tightened the header to hi flow cats bolts. Enjoy installing it yourself it will give you a great sense of satisfaction when drive your car with your mods that you installed yourself.
hawaiianboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 06:02 AM   #17
Tampa Tuning
Like us on Facebook!

 
Tampa Tuning's Avatar
 
Drives: C5 Corvette/ 2010 Camaro
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tampa, Fl
Posts: 2,541
have your favorate beer in a cooler on ice. You're going to need it at the end of the night for a reward
__________________

Read this :
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...20#post7838320

www.TampaTuning.com
Camaro Corvette CTS GTO Tuner Tampa Orlando Bradenton
Tampa Tuning is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 07:17 AM   #18
Rcfiddy1

 
Rcfiddy1's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Rally Yellow 2SS/RS #37115
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Manalapan, New Jersey
Posts: 1,824
Just buy new 02 sensors. If you don't need them bring them back, but I just used new ones and kept the old ones in stock exhaust incase I decide to go back to stock. Get the car up as high as possible. Have a friend help, its easier to have someone hold up header from under car as you start bolts.
__________________
Build Thread
ECS Paxton Novi 1500 Blower Black, Alky Control Meth Injection, LS3 conversion, ECS Blower cam, Trunion upgrade, Vigilante 2800 stall, BMR suspension parts, 3.45 rear, Stainless Works LT headers, BnB fusion ZL1 exhaust, Ridetech Coilovers.
Rcfiddy1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 07:45 AM   #19
newagemuscle
Philippians 4:13
 
newagemuscle's Avatar
 
Drives: SLP Supercharged LS3
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The Motor City - Michigan
Posts: 2,524
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcfiddy1 View Post
Just buy new 02 sensors. If you don't need them bring them back, but I just used new ones and kept the old ones in stock exhaust incase I decide to go back to stock. Get the car up as high as possible. Have a friend help, its easier to have someone hold up header from under car as you start bolts.
What’s the deal with the 02 sensors? Are they really that hard to get out without damaging them? Is rust or corrosions and issue on most? I'm hoping mine come out pretty easy because the car has just less than 4,000 miles and has never been wet. What is a ball park cost if I needed to buy new ones?
Thanks for all the help guys
__________________
newagemuscle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 08:14 AM   #20
2010abmss
 
2010abmss's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 ABM SS
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: TX
Posts: 561
Use an air ratchet if you have access to one I did my kooks by myself in an hour and 45 minutes it's very easy.
__________________
2010 ABM 2SS RS. Corsa CB and more mods to come!
2013 IOM ZL1 M6
2010abmss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 08:20 AM   #21
TORKED
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Portage, WI
Posts: 104
Try your best to get access to a hoist. It will speed things up and ensure your install goes as directed. Youtube (as I'm sure you know) has installation vids for damn near every Camaro part out there. Watch a couple to get a "warm and fuzzy" before your tear into the project. All in all, it is pretty easy to complete.
TORKED is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 08:41 AM   #22
caverman


 
caverman's Avatar
 
Drives: '69 SS Convertible
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,066
Quote:
Originally Posted by newagemuscle View Post
What’s the deal with the 02 sensors? Are they really that hard to get out without damaging them? Is rust or corrosions and issue on most? I'm hoping mine come out pretty easy because the car has just less than 4,000 miles and has never been wet. What is a ball park cost if I needed to buy new ones?
Thanks for all the help guys
They are know to come cross threaded from the factory and are usually in there real good. They don't always strip out. The ones I worked on came right out with no problem but the guy drove it 30 min to me, we put it up on a lift shortly after getting there, and we then immediately broke loose the O2. Didn't take them out...just get them loose while it's still warm.
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal
caverman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 08:59 AM   #23
Rcfiddy1

 
Rcfiddy1's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Rally Yellow 2SS/RS #37115
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Manalapan, New Jersey
Posts: 1,824
Quote:
Originally Posted by newagemuscle View Post
What’s the deal with the 02 sensors? Are they really that hard to get out without damaging them? Is rust or corrosions and issue on most? I'm hoping mine come out pretty easy because the car has just less than 4,000 miles and has never been wet. What is a ball park cost if I needed to buy new ones?
Thanks for all the help guys
Yes and No, I just didn't want any problems so I bought new ones just in case.
__________________
Build Thread
ECS Paxton Novi 1500 Blower Black, Alky Control Meth Injection, LS3 conversion, ECS Blower cam, Trunion upgrade, Vigilante 2800 stall, BMR suspension parts, 3.45 rear, Stainless Works LT headers, BnB fusion ZL1 exhaust, Ridetech Coilovers.
Rcfiddy1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 10:27 PM   #24
hawaiianboy
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS SIM
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by newagemuscle View Post
What’s the deal with the 02 sensors? Are they really that hard to get out without damaging them? Is rust or corrosions and issue on most? I'm hoping mine come out pretty easy because the car has just less than 4,000 miles and has never been wet. What is a ball park cost if I needed to buy new ones?
Thanks for all the help guys
I was able to get the rear 02 sensors out while it was hot it's fairly easy. The front ones though I couldnt get my wrench in to get it out while the oem cats were still connected to the ex. manifold. Once I got the oem cats out it was kinda cold so I put some penetrating oil and let it soak then wrenched it out easily. Don't worry your avatar scripture says it all. Plus Rom. 8:28
hawaiianboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2012, 12:40 AM   #25
yessitsfast
 
yessitsfast's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 camaro
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: pluto
Posts: 78
check out my post header help and dont be scared to lay all the way across the top of the engine to be more comfortable to tighten header bolts get ready for bloody knuckes oh and have a friend is a must i struggled for 2 days by myself once i got a helper took maybe 1 hour
yessitsfast is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
The Elimination Game: Camaro colors Ant Cosmetics and Lighting Modification Discussions 2739 04-10-2014 09:37 AM
Kooks Long Tube Headers and Exhaust Install & Dyno - 411 RWHP - Phastek Performance Sean@Phastek Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons 6 01-09-2012 06:07 PM
LT install and JRE tune tylerSS Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons 2 12-30-2011 11:05 AM
What Else is needed to Install OBX LT Headers? oso305 Camaro V6 LLT Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons 19 12-16-2011 06:26 PM
Complete SubThump install from a Novice Susantroy1 Audio, Video, Bluetooth, Navigation, Radar, Electronics Forum 62 09-06-2010 03:17 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.