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Old 03-24-2012, 03:09 PM   #1
IROCanSS
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DIY: Intalling cutouts

This seems to be a popular item and a lot of questions on intalling them.

This write up is for DMH low profile cutouts. I am sure the others are similar.



I have seen costs up to $1000 to install a set of these things. Thats nuts. Here is a DIY to install them. I have installed about 4 or 5 sets and it takes about 4 hours wheels up to down, without a lift.

If you live within a reasonable distance from southern Ohio, PM me, we can work something out.

Now, you need to be able to CUT and WELD stainless. Other then that, its a straight forward job. I am not 100% sure on the tools off the top of my head that you need but they are basic stuff. Mainly a 15mm deep well socket to remove the exhaust.

Cutout install:

1. Jack/lift vehicle



2. hold the cutouts inplace where you want them mounted. Make sure there is at least 1/4" clearence all aound them for exhaust movement.





You can see in the pictures where I mount mine. Both motors are on the outsides. There is a stud on the passenger floor pan that needs cut off. No clue what its for. Nothing is bolted to it.
3. Mark with a sharpie as much of the outside of the piece as you can. You can see on my "hole" picture the marker.
4. Drop the exhaust out of the car.



5. Hold the piece back on the exhaust lining up the line you drew and continue to draw the outline around.



6. Cut the hole. I use a cutting wheel for the straight cuts and a series of drilled holes on the rounded part then grind the rest with a small drill mounted grinder.



They should look like this when done.



7. Test fit the piece. There should be very little "lip" on the inside. A small lip is OK, but I usually grind it down so there isn't one. Just dont grint too much that you have to build up weld.
8. Weld the flanges on. Make sure you have 100% weld all the way or it will leak.





9. Reinstall the exhaust.
10. Silicon the flange. Smear it good
11. Bolt up the motor/flap and shield (pointing down obviously)



12. Wire it up... I used the plugs in the floor boards on each side to run the wires into the cabin then under the carpet and into the console. The button is made to fit in a power port or you can just drill a hole and mount it on the console or where ever you want.

I used the power port by the TC button:



Wiring:

1. Remove console shifter bezel by EASILY pulling it off.
2. Unplug the console and take it to the bench.
3. Splice into the hot (RED) and ground (black) for the power port with the red and black supplied with the kit.
4. Remove the inner part of the power port.
5. cut the bottom off the metal inside sleeve of the port.
6. push the sleeve back in.
7. slide the button through the hole and it will snap in.
8. Plug everything in
9. TEST IT
10. Put your car back together
11. ENJOY HAVOC.


Last edited by IROCanSS; 03-25-2012 at 06:27 AM.
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Old 03-24-2012, 03:19 PM   #2
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Where do you use the BFH?
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Old 03-24-2012, 03:25 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2L82RUN View Post
Where do you use the BFH?
Thats usually used to get the exhaust hangers off!



Oh, I forgot to add... you will use BOTH WD40 and DUCT TAPE on this job... at least I did. The WD40 to lube the exhaust hangers and the duct tape to tape the wire to the frame rail. I have seen some fance screw in holders but I am too hill billy for that... Actually I need to pick some up. They work MUCH better than DT.
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:19 PM   #4
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Use nylon zip ties instead of duct tape, the tape will come off eventually with the elements
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:48 PM   #5
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Use nylon zip ties instead of duct tape, the tape will come off eventually with the elements
Elements? What are these elements you speak of?


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Old 03-24-2012, 09:58 PM   #6
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use 3m then duct tape
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:56 AM   #7
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3m tape is good for that
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:41 AM   #8
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glad you got this down... can't wait for mine.
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:01 AM   #9
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glad you got this down... can't wait for mine.
I got them ready and waiting.


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