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V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) Driveshafts | Differentials | Gears | Rearends | Clutch | Shifters

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Old 02-02-2011, 11:25 AM   #1
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Driveshaft Shop aluminum driveshaft installation.

Yesterday was the day for the installation of the 1 piece 3.5" one piece aluminum driveftshaft from the Driveshaft Shop. Very straight forward and easy installation.

Test drive today.

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Old 02-02-2011, 11:52 AM   #2
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Thanks for the pictures. Going to doing this. Noticed that you didn't put the heat shield back on...is there no clearance for it?
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:12 PM   #3
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Thanks for the pictures. Going to doing this. Noticed that you didn't put the heat shield back on...is there no clearance for it?
Not required.

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Old 02-03-2011, 01:40 AM   #4
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I saw a scale sitting there. Did you weigh the shafts?



Chris...
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Old 02-03-2011, 05:20 AM   #5
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Very nice .Thanks for the pictures ,its great to know the driveshaft safety loop clears .
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:31 AM   #6
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Looks like you are running a 3" exhaust system. any clearances issues that needed "adjusting"?
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Old 02-03-2011, 10:18 AM   #7
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I saw a scale sitting there. Did you weigh the shafts?



Chris...

Weight wise they are about the same. I would imagine that the CV joint has something to do with the overall weight being close to the same. Still better then the stock stuff. I have bent a few sets of front bolts in the stock set up. I have only a few hundred miles on Pumpkin since the tranny outputshaft was replaced and when I removed the stock driveshaft the bolts were already starting to bend.

I pretty sure there be no more bending bolts now.

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Old 02-03-2011, 10:21 AM   #8
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Looks like you are running a 3" exhaust system. any clearances issues that needed "adjusting"?
Yes I am running a full 3' ARH system right to the tips. No clearence issues at all. You have to remove the first heat shield behind the tranny though. Not required anymore.

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Old 02-03-2011, 10:23 AM   #9
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I managed a quick spin around the block yesterday. Smooth as glass.

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Old 02-03-2011, 10:44 AM   #10
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That looks beautamonious. Can't wait for Frank to send me my CF 1-piece shaft!
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Old 02-03-2011, 10:52 AM   #11
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Could afford the 10 K for the Carbon Shaft. Assume it's a miss print on the site.

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Old 02-03-2011, 11:29 AM   #12
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Could afford the 10 K for the Carbon Shaft. Assume it's a miss print on the site.

Yeah it's actually $1399.
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Old 02-04-2011, 08:46 PM   #13
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As the build continues Pumpkin will change location early next week. Planning on a day permitt and a good test drive. Report back then on the Driveshaft Shop shaft then.


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Old 02-04-2011, 09:03 PM   #14
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cool! man, can't wait to see you car. Hopefully there will be another vancouver meet this summer =D
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:08 PM   #15
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No more bending drivshaft bolts.


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Old 02-05-2011, 09:05 AM   #16
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Forgot to ask, is there any provision for lubing the CV & rear u-joint? Or are they considered "lifetime lubed" and sealed units?

The DSS says the 1-piece AL unit is 7 pounds lighter yet you said they weighed the same. ??
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Old 02-05-2011, 09:19 AM   #17
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The CV is using a ultra h-grade CV grease we use in the "World challenge" road race and many SCCA professional cars, the Rear joint is a factory solid joint and has a double lip seal. they are both designed for 70-80,000 miles of highway driving, now racing will lower these number but not more than only other part on the car. the drive shaft weighs 17lbs by itself and the mounting plates are a pound or two so it is lighter. the best thing about this and more than likely the most noticeable for a person that knows there car is this. The stock shaft has what we call "hanger lag" what happens is when you hit the throttle hard the hanger bearing (on a stock shaft) moves up and then the car moves, the single shaft will make the car feel more responsive or athletic.
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Old 02-05-2011, 09:38 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driveshaftshop View Post
The CV is using a ultra h-grade CV grease we use in the "World challenge" road race and many SCCA professional cars, the Rear joint is a factory solid joint and has a double lip seal. they are both designed for 70-80,000 miles of highway driving, now racing will lower these number but not more than only other part on the car. the drive shaft weighs 17lbs by itself and the mounting plates are a pound or two so it is lighter. the best thing about this and more than likely the most noticeable for a person that knows there car is this. The stock shaft has what we call "hanger lag" what happens is when you hit the throttle hard the hanger bearing (on a stock shaft) moves up and then the car moves, the single shaft will make the car feel more responsive or athletic.
Thanks for that. How does one get the CV rebuilt/replaced and is the U-joint a standard part #? I keep my cars/bikes for a long time so for me this is important. How long to get the CF unit?
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:59 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hypurone View Post
Forgot to ask, is there any provision for lubing the CV & rear u-joint? Or are they considered "lifetime lubed" and sealed units?

The DSS says the 1-piece AL unit is 7 pounds lighter yet you said they weighed the same. ??

I only used a bathroom scale and stood them on end. Not very accurate. But I don't care so much about weight. I just want something better then the stock one the does away with those silly rubber torsion rings. I have bent 4 sets of front drive shaft bolts and I would be willing to bet the farm yours are bent too. If you have to knock them out with a drift punch there bent.

No I did not see a grease nipple.

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Old 02-05-2011, 01:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driveshaftshop View Post
The CV is using a ultra h-grade CV grease we use in the "World challenge" road race and many SCCA professional cars, the Rear joint is a factory solid joint and has a double lip seal. they are both designed for 70-80,000 miles of highway driving, now racing will lower these number but not more than only other part on the car. the drive shaft weighs 17lbs by itself and the mounting plates are a pound or two so it is lighter. the best thing about this and more than likely the most noticeable for a person that knows there car is this. The stock shaft has what we call "hanger lag" what happens is when you hit the throttle hard the hanger bearing (on a stock shaft) moves up and then the car moves, the single shaft will make the car feel more responsive or athletic.
Yes guy's I agree. I got on Pumpkin a couple of times on my around the block test drive. Seems as smooth as glass. Weather looks good early next week, so I will have Pumpkin on the road for a day of test pounding on driveshaft and suspension mods.



Keep you posted. Can't wait to try it.
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Old 02-05-2011, 03:59 PM   #21
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DSS stuff

Quote:
Originally Posted by hypurone View Post
Thanks for that. How does one get the CV rebuilt/replaced and is the U-joint a standard part #? I keep my cars/bikes for a long time so for me this is important. How long to get the CF unit?

The Cv is a special high speed joint, we make the internals. We have been in business since the late 60's so getting the parts from us will not be a problem. the back u-joint is a standard 1350 solid joint that can be picked up any where.
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Old 02-05-2011, 08:07 PM   #22
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Thanks for that. How does one get the CV rebuilt/replaced and is the U-joint a standard part #? I keep my cars/bikes for a long time so for me this is important. How long to get the CF unit?

Not to mention that a greasable u-joint will be hollow. A tad bit weaker.

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Old 02-06-2011, 08:41 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driveshaftshop View Post
The Cv is a special high speed joint, we make the internals. We have been in business since the late 60's so getting the parts from us will not be a problem. the back u-joint is a standard 1350 solid joint that can be picked up any where.
OK, and is the CV user/shop serviceable? Or require special tools/processes and am I going to have to send it back to you? What is your warranty period?
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Old 02-06-2011, 02:50 PM   #24
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OK, and is the CV user/shop serviceable? Or require special tools/processes and am I going to have to send it back to you? What is your warranty period?
You have a CV joint in both your axels. I don't believe you have to service them. I'll check the stock driveshaft for you when I get to the shop. I doubt it is greaseable either.



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Old 02-06-2011, 03:06 PM   #25
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AFAIK, the CV joints are fully serviceable. But unless you have a tear in the CV boot, there is no need to work on them. The only thing that's really serviceable on any CV joint is replacing the boots and grease. Other than that, you pretty much just replace them.
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