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V8 and V6 Transmissions / Driveline (6L80 / 6L50 / TR6060 / AY6) Driveshafts | Differentials | Gears | Rearends | Clutch | Shifters

View Poll Results: if you definitely want a cylinder please chose V6 or SS. need to figure out how many
I own a V6 20 20.83%
I own a V6 but will wait for a core exchange 7 7.29%
I own a SS 50 52.08%
I own a SS but will wait for a core exchange 21 21.88%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 96. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 10-19-2012, 11:09 PM   #851
was619
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The only other thing that it could be (so I have read) is the spacers or 'shims' that put the slave the right distance so it moves the clutch correctly. But this mod will probably help a lot. Along with a stainless steel line
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:02 AM   #852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by was619 View Post
The only other thing that it could be (so I have read) is the spacers or 'shims' that put the slave the right distance so it moves the clutch correctly. But this mod will probably help a lot. Along with a stainless steel line
The shims will not help they do absolutely nothing. they way the slave works it pushes the same amount with or without the shims. I proved this doing all the testing when i first started this thread.
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:27 PM   #853
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Just installed my master cylinder yesterday and the Tick Performance stainless clutch line. What a difference it makes! No more grinding and no more notchy shifting, it shifts like butter now! What a bear it was trying to bleed the thing but definitely worth it!

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Old 10-20-2012, 01:46 PM   #854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2012-2SS View Post
Just installed my master cylinder yesterday and the Tick Performance stainless clutch line. What a difference it makes! No more grinding and no more notchy shifting, it shifts like butter now! What a bear it was trying to bleed the thing but definitely worth it!

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Old 10-20-2012, 02:10 PM   #855
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Listen friends. ...I can attest that this is a must do for any m6...The more I drive the more I sense the difference. Been about 2 weeks I think. I can actually hear a small click while depressing the clutch...and i know its from the added force of the fluid and I feel the disengagement of the clutch where as with stock I some times wondered if the shift was actually complete. Also I remember that in hot weather and stop and go traffic my clutch felt too soft and mushy...now its much harder. The product is worth it ...not only that...being that Ideal did the install I met the guys, and I can say they are good people all around.
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:44 AM   #856
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Quote:
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what clutch are you using? others have had trouble with sticking pedals and my master resolved their problem. you shouldn't need to adjust your clutch.
I have ACT's twin and Ram's slave. Car's getting towed back to the shop on Monday so the transmission can come out yet again. I'm going to assume the new billet slave failed due to the lack of fluid in the res and how quickly it leaves when I tried to refill and bleed the system. I'm about to blow a gasket over this damn transmission!


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Old 10-21-2012, 07:44 AM   #857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010SSRSM6 View Post
I have ACT's twin and Ram's slave. Car's getting towed back to the shop on Monday so the transmission can come out yet again. I'm going to assume the new billet slave failed due to the lack of fluid in the res and how quickly it leaves when I tried to refill and bleed the system. I'm about to blow a gasket over this damn transmission!


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someone else here had trouble with a Ram slave and then the second one they installed was ok.

Make sure the Ram slave is adjusted properly
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:15 PM   #858
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VACATION WEEK

IDEALG will be taking a week vacation for the SEMA show October 28th - November 4th

So any orders that week will be shipped out monday November 5th.


Dad will be in the shop if anyone has any technical questions but he will not be shipping out orders.


Thank you
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:14 PM   #859
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Enjoy your time off! You deserve it!

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Old 10-23-2012, 02:49 PM   #860
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:02 PM   #861
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So I have had my MC installed for a few days and noticed that as I depress the pedal the last half inch or so before it hits the bottom needs a bit more pressure as if its trying to compress the fluid in the slave to move the slave more than it normally would

Also I notice that the position which the clutch engages is right after the stock return spring trys to push your foot up faster

any Impute would be great.
thanks
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:16 PM   #862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by was619 View Post
So I have had my MC installed for a few days and noticed that as I depress the pedal the last half inch or so before it hits the bottom needs a bit more pressure as if its trying to compress the fluid in the slave to move the slave more than it normally would

Also I notice that the position which the clutch engages is right after the stock return spring trys to push your foot up faster

any Impute would be great.
thanks
Will
Sounds like you need to bleed the clutch a little more. Make sure you exercise the pedal through its full range of motion.

The factory pedal is designed to assist in holding the clutch pedal down and then help return the pedal the last few inches. If you're unsure disconnect the master cylinder and run the pedal through its range of motion.

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Old 10-23-2012, 03:30 PM   #863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by was619 View Post
So I have had my MC installed for a few days and noticed that as I depress the pedal the last half inch or so before it hits the bottom needs a bit more pressure as if its trying to compress the fluid in the slave to move the slave more than it normally would

Also I notice that the position which the clutch engages is right after the stock return spring trys to push your foot up faster

any Impute would be great.
thanks
Will

Also give us a little more detail on whats going on?

I think you need to bleed the system again.
You should feel a little more pressure then previously with the stock master but it's only a little.

what we have been doing now is disconnecting the hydraulic clutch line at the trans and then bleeding the master cylinder and the line first. you use your finger as a bleeder on the end of the hydraulic line while someone else pushes up and down on the pedal. once you get the master cylinder and line full of fluid with no air then connect the line back up and then bleed the the whole system from the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. it makes it easier this way to get all the air out of the system.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:38 PM   #864
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Also give us a little more detail on whats going on?

I think you need to bleed the system again.
You should feel a little more pressure then previously with the stock master but it's only a little.

what we have been doing now is disconnecting the hydraulic clutch line at the trans and then bleeding the master cylinder and the line first. you use your finger as a bleeder on the end of the hydraulic line while someone else pushes up and down on the pedal. once you get the master cylinder and line full of fluid with no air then connect the line back up and then bleed the the whole system from the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. it makes it easier this way to get all the air out of the system.
I will try this method of bleeding it again! Thanks guys!
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:55 PM   #865
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Here's another THANK-YOU IDEALG!!
Guess I'm gonna keep this bucket of bolts a little longer after all!

After a re-bleed just to be sure, and a fresh engine oil change- I got the chance to put the spurs to her!

Hard/fast 1-2 shifts (and2-3, and 3-4) at redline and beyond, with no crunch, no grind, no problem!!
I'm using stock DOT#3 fluid, OE hydraulic lines, and OE gear oil in the trans- so it's got to be the new mastercylinder.

If you've still got a grind after this mod I'd suggest a re-bleed or maybe your synchro has already succumbed to too many crunches.

Get one before your synchro's throw in the towel!
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:40 PM   #866
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I returned the stock master cylinder but have yet to received the $50 core deposit
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:57 PM   #867
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I returned the stock master cylinder but have yet to received the $50 core deposit

I posted several times already i'm no longer doing the core returns.

I can't use your cores, And i kept receiving broken cores anyway.

PM sent Steve
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:00 PM   #868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ventmaster View Post
Here's another THANK-YOU IDEALG!!
Guess I'm gonna keep this bucket of bolts a little longer after all!

After a re-bleed just to be sure, and a fresh engine oil change- I got the chance to put the spurs to her!

Hard/fast 1-2 shifts (and2-3, and 3-4) at redline and beyond, with no crunch, no grind, no problem!!
I'm using stock DOT#3 fluid, OE hydraulic lines, and OE gear oil in the trans- so it's got to be the new mastercylinder.

If you've still got a grind after this mod I'd suggest a re-bleed or maybe your synchro has already succumbed to too many crunches.

Get one before your synchro's throw in the towel!

Glad you got it going. enjoy now
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:11 PM   #869
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Installation TIP!

Please be aware when installing the master cylinder that the hydraulic line that goes into the master cylinder has a rubber seal at the end of it.

a lot of guys are yanking out the hydraulic line of the stock master cylinder and losing the rubber seal, then when they install the new master cylinder it leaks all over the place during bleeding.

Be careful and take your time removing the hydraulic line from the stock master cylinder make sure not to lose the rubber seal.
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:48 PM   #870
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Reminder

Remember guys when ordering from my website

Use coupon code idealms for free shipping in USA
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:33 PM   #871
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Remember guys when ordering from my website

Use coupon code idealms for free shipping in USA
Jerry:
Order one for an SS yesterday I did not see or use the coupon code . Could you help a guy out with that. Invoice ID 0000001122.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:59 PM   #872
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Jerry:
Order one for an SS yesterday I did not see or use the coupon code . Could you help a guy out with that. Invoice ID 0000001122.

Yes I got your email, I'll refund you the shipping.
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:12 PM   #873
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Do you recommend getting the tick remote bleeder or the Stainless clutch line
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:27 PM   #874
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Quote:
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Do you recommend getting the tick remote bleeder or the Stainless clutch line
you have to remove the trans to install the tick remote bleed , I do recommend it. it makes life easy down the road to bleed and flush your clutch fluid.

The stainless line is also good to have and thats not as hard to install.
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:19 PM   #875
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What remote bleeder are people buying for the SS? I went to Summit and they didn't have anything for my 12' SS to bleed the clutch fluid when i get my modified clutch master cylinder.

They had a Ram remote bleeder but the sales guy didn't know if it would fit. He wanted to know the bleeder screw fitting size was and he might of been able to get me the parts to make one up but i had no idea what the size is.

Also what stainless steel line are people getting?

Any answers are appreciated.
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