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Old 03-30-2012, 02:42 PM   #1
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Break-in

Now that the wait is over, for those who will be traveling hundreds of miles to pick-up their ZL1, how are you planning to handle the 1500 mile break-in period?

New Vehicle Break-In

Notice:
Follow these recommended guidelines during the first 2 414 km (1,500 mi) of driving this vehicle. Parts have a break-in period and performance will be better in the long run.
  • For the first 2 414 km (1,500 mi): Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops. . Do not exceed 4000 engine rpm.
  • Avoid driving at any one constant speed, fast or slow. Do not drive above 129 km/h (80 mph).
  • Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle when the engine speed will exceed 4,000 rpm.
  • Do not let the engine labor. Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. With a manual transmission, shift to the next lower gear. This rule applies at all times, not just during the break-in period
  • Do not participate in racing events, sport driving schools, or similar activities during this break-in period.
  • Check engine oil with every refueling and add if necessary. Oil and fuel consumption may be higher than normal during the first 2 414 km (1,500 mi)
  • To break in new tires, drive at moderate speeds and avoid hard cornering for the first 322 km (200 mi). New tires do not have maximum traction and may tend to slip
  • New brake linings also need a break-in period. Avoid making hard stops during the first 322 km (200 mi). This is recommended every time brake linings are replaced.
  • Should the vehicle be used for racing or competitive driving (after break-in), the rear axle lubricant must be replaced beforehand.

I personally have 550 miles to travel and plan on taking some back roads but will have to spend the majority of the trip on the interstate driving at a constant speed.
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:06 PM   #2
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Interesting on the diff fluid. I wonder what happens to it in that short of time?
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:14 PM   #3
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Interesting on the diff fluid. I wonder what happens to it in that short of time?
Is that the diff oil or axle lubricant?
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:17 PM   #4
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I broke in my SS by taking her to the road course 2 days after I picked her up and then did an oil change lol. 45k of extremely hard road racing and 3 x 6000 mile road trips miles later she is still 100%!
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:20 PM   #5
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I think the car will drive fine if you don't follow the break-in instructions, they only thing would be the life of the engine would not be as long. 150,000K vs 200,000.
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:24 PM   #6
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  • For the first 2 414 km (1,500 mi): Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops. . Do not exceed 4000 engine rpm.
All sound good except for this.
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCM52 View Post
[*]Should the vehicle be used for racing or competitive driving (after break-in), the rear axle lubricant must be replaced beforehand. [/LIST]
I personally have 550 miles to travel and plan on taking some back roads but will have to spend the majority of the trip on the interstate driving at a constant speed.
Isn't the rear axle liquid sharing the cooler with the tranny and use the same fluid?

If so, do you therefore replace tranny fluid and rear axle fluid simultaneously?
IE, is it a simultaneous event?
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:41 PM   #8
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Every engine etc, the break in period is driving it like i normally would. And following severe duty service intervals
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:45 PM   #9
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Just don't beat on it and it will be fine!
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:59 PM   #10
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I recommend laying down two black stripes as you leave the dealership and keeping the pressure on until you park it in your Garage.
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:18 PM   #11
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Be careful violating the break-in period, I believe that the Chevy Service department can tell if you violated some of their rules and could void your warranty.
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:39 PM   #12
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this break in puzzels me beyond belief. I work with metals everyday as we operate helicopters.

there are heat cycling and break in issues for cetain metals, gear meshing, etc. 1500 miles is huge.

do not maintain a constant speed for 1500 miles???? good f-ing luck with that one.

I will not follow this proceedure to a T because it is almost impossible. I will follow guidlines of my own though.

the odd thing is just do do a dyno pull on a motor would be behond this break in procedure ha ha.

you have to wear the tires front tires in. rears can be broke in faster ha ha. heat cycle the trans and rear diff a few time. make sure the rings have seated before you redline the car.

I usually dirve to the coast and back ~200-250miles of random driving speed and rpm with multiple stops. then drive it like I stole it.
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:51 PM   #13
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This thread was discussed several months ago and the one surprising comment was follow the breadk in period as noted for 250 miles. After that, do starts slow, accelerate hard to 80 MPH and then get off the accelerator, push in the clutch and let the vehicle come to a 5 MPH speed, then do it again. Several pulls like this per day will seat the rings better and allow the engine to develop into a more powerful beast. I'm not following this procedure, but it was discussed in great detail earlier this year. Most of the comments came from individuals that race cars and build engines. Any input!!
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:32 PM   #14
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The break in period for cars nowadays isn't as important as it used to be in the past due to improvements in material selection and manufacturing processes... I will probably go easy for the first 200 miles and then let her rip....

Sometimes you just have to show her whos boss....
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:37 PM   #15
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Be careful, the car records what you do!
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htron50 View Post
Isn't the rear axle liquid sharing the cooler with the tranny and use the same fluid?

If so, do you therefore replace tranny fluid and rear axle fluid simultaneously?
IE, is it a simultaneous event?
The rear diff cooler circulates tranny fluid through it to cool the diff fluid (oil) the two fluids are different. ATF and Gear Lube.
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:30 PM   #17
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Be careful violating the break-in period, I believe that the Chevy Service department can tell if you violated some of their rules and could void your warranty.
They're not going to void your warranty for going 6000 rpm in the first 1500 miles. Go easy and vary speed for 50 - 200 miles then break it in hard if you want the max potential from you motor.
Just don't abuse it.

Really, has any 5th gen not went over 4,000 rpm for the first 1500 miles?
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:35 PM   #18
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Be careful violating the break-in period, I believe that the Chevy Service department can tell if you violated some of their rules and could void your warranty.
The service department will be well aware of it when my wife lays 20ft of rubber leaving the lot

If the break in period was mandatory and not recommended, they would do like certain German cars and also Italian exotics, they set the rev limiter to 4k and it is removed after the 1st service.

Ferrari takes every single car they buid to there own road course for 5 laps, change the oil and deliver the car.

/Erik
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:38 PM   #19
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I don't believe in babying the car during the break-in period.

My 2010 SS was on the dyno w/ 500 miles on it 369RWHP in stock form
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:36 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htron50 View Post
Isn't the rear axle liquid sharing the cooler with the tranny and use the same fluid?

If so, do you therefore replace tranny fluid and rear axle fluid simultaneously?
IE, is it a simultaneous event?
Transmission fluid only acts as a coolant medium - the lubricating fluids aren't shared. There is a heat exchanger within the diff housing.
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:58 PM   #21
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Transmission fluid only acts as a coolant medium - the lubricating fluids aren't shared. There is a heat exchanger within the diff housing.
OK! Thanks! That clears it up! I can change the rear axle oil independently.
Then the tranny fluid separately. Got it! I intend to change each at around 800 miles. Will also put in Magnetic Oil/FLuid plugs wherever possible.
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:53 PM   #22
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The break in period for cars nowadays isn't as important as it used to be in the past due to improvements in material selection and manufacturing processes... I will probably go easy for the first 200 miles and then let her rip....

Sometimes you just have to show her whos boss....
Probably just as important if not more. Check how tight the pistons are on a brand new production built LS motor. Basically an interference fit - pretty much zero clearance, until the coating wears in a bit. Valves to guides are pretty tight also when green fresh. No reason to take those tight components to max loads on day one. You also have the rear diff gears that need a break in period... no gear specialist will ever tell you to beat on a brand new gear set.

The fact the cars survive hard break ins is more a testament to the quality of modern production. Not that it was any great thing you just did to your car.

All they can do is make recommendations, what you actually do with your car is up to you. Beat the hell out it if you wish.
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:19 PM   #23
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Ferrari takes every single car they buid to there own road course for 5 laps, change the oil and deliver the car.

/Erik
I heard about this too but thought it was a rumor...that's AWESOME These threads always come up I've always broken in my stuff the same: Just drive it like you "NORMALLY" would and you're good to go (i.e. if it's a performance car, drive it like a performance car!) I broke in the bike you see in my avatar on the DYNO before leaving the dealership and then did a trackday 2 weekends later after riding hard in the canyons for a few days; so far it has given me no problems. I broke in my 2005 Vette by driving it like "NORMAL" and it didn't give me any problems--I did have to add oil to it during the 1st few thousand miles but I guess that's normal for some high performance engines
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:28 PM   #24
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I broke in my SS by taking her to the road course 2 days after I picked her up and then did an oil change lol. 45k of extremely hard road racing and 3 x 6000 mile road trips miles later she is still 100%!
hard break in FTW
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:02 PM   #25
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Change the diff' fluid probably as a precaution from production and assembly contaminates circulating in and around clutches and bearings and such. It sounds like they just want you to start with new, fresh fluid free of all possible degris and other crap for racing where these can be a bigger problem.
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