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Old 04-01-2012, 09:47 PM   #1
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Newly developed oil leak... Could newly installed catch can be to blame?

I'm not real sure where to post this, it doesn't really seem mantenance related, or bolt on related, seems pretty general, so here goes...

Went to drive the Camaro today, got to my Dad's and the car smelled of burning oil. (SEE PIC 1) Pop the hood and see there was oil on the top of the catch can, and running down the side... Weird, I wipe it off.. Open the drain valve, nothing came out at all. I didn't expect anything to come out, because I just installed the catch can 2 days ago on FRIDAY.

Yes, the hoses are going to the correct locations to the valley cover, and to the intake nipple. I triple checked the install and checked on here to make sure it was right on Friday...

Came home to picture #2 giant oil leak where the Camaro was parked last night. Huh, wtf? I checked the oil, and sure enough it wasn't even on the hash marked area. Drive to the shop, jack the car up look for oil leak... It appears to be coming from between the engine and trans, I assume the rear main seal...

Double check hoses on can again, the center one goes to the valley cover, and the outer one goes to the nipple on the intake just behind the throttle body... Checked to see if valves on can, and breather cap are operating, they seem to function normally. The can drain valve is closed. Open drain valve, start car, there is vacuum at the drain hose with valve open. Shut off car, close valve. Everything seems to function normally.

Did I forget something on the can install? It seemed pretty straight forward.

Back to Friday when I installed the can I had to remove the throttle body to access the hose from the valley cover to the intake and discovered oil on the back of the TB (PIC 3), the intake was moist, but there were no puddles of oil (PIC 4)... Does my car have blow by issues?

I parked the car in a different spot in the driveway, we'll see if I get another big spot tomorrow. I also removed the breather and put the stock oil fill cap back on, and reconnected the hose to the intake elbow for the time being.

The only thing that has changed is the addition of the can. It is an RX can. I'm not saying it's the can's fault, and it seems to function as normal. The car never leaked oil before, and currently has 17,000 miles on it.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:02 PM   #2
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The car is not supercharged correct?
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:07 PM   #3
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The car is not supercharged correct?
The car is not supercharged, I'm too poor for that LOL

I see this was also moved, I guess it was not considered general. I didn't want to put it in the bolt on section as it could be a general problem not related to the bolt on RX catch can.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:10 PM   #4
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Did you open the valve on the bottom of the can and test for vacuum there? It might be a stuck ball valve in the nipples of the can.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:11 PM   #5
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Did you open the valve on the bottom of the can and test for vacuum there? It might be a stuck ball valve in the nipples of the can.
Yes I did, there is vacuum there with the valve open.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:34 PM   #6
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I'm outa ideas, sorry. It sure does seem that your car is acting like the crank case is getting pressurized by a blocked PVC vacuum line though. Maybe send a personal message to sc1250 ?
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:11 PM   #7
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I will send him a message asking him to view the thread...
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:48 PM   #8
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To me, those who have this issue always have the breather installed with the RX CC. Anybody else notice this? I have the RX CC, without breather, and I have no problems so far.
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
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To me, those who have this issue always have the breather installed with the RX CC. Anybody else notice this? I have the RX CC, without breather, and I have no problems so far.
I have also noticed there seems to be a connection between the breather, and problems similar to this.
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:49 AM   #10
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I wonder if you might have accidentally got a V6 breather cap instead of a V8 cap? I understand that the V6 breather is metered to let less fresh air in than the V8 breather...

Best of luck. Hope this gets resolved soon.
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:43 PM   #11
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I had the same problem

I had 10k miles on my car with no problems. Had headers/tune/CAI and it ran fine.

Then I put on the RX can and breather and after 2-3k miles my car was gushing oil from the rear main seal. The tech at GM said the oil pressure in my car was double what it should be and my crankcase pressure was about to blow the engine.

Long story short, I removed the can and now all is good and the car runs perfect. If you poke around on here you will find quite a few post identical to this. Same problem, same leak, same burnt oil smell. Im not flaming the cans, in fact I still have mine (just not on the car) and I also have the RX ported TB on my car currently, which I love. I even triple checked to make sure the hoses were hooked up right and the can was actually creating a vacum and the valves were not broken. It all came down to the can and breather.

p.s. The dealership where I took in the car replaced the rear main seal under warranty, but said if I didn't remove the can, next time its not free. For something that was supposed to be cheap insurance, it almost cost me an arm and leg.
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:59 PM   #12
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Sounds like it may be the breather I will put stock cap and hose back on and leave can on. ( that cant hurt ? )I do get a oil smell once in a while since I installed can? yet no leaks but have less then 200 miles on can.
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:07 PM   #13
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I too agree it sounds like to me to be a breather issue.

Everyone that I've see who posts this problem has the breather cap installed as well. I've yet to see a thread or post from someone who has had this happen only have the catch can installed.

I have the RX catch can. I installed it first thing as soon as I brought the car home and that was a year and a half ago. I have zero issues with the can nor with my engine.
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:01 PM   #14
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Hey Tracy could you post the numbers here as to aprox. how many people have bought the CC and breather and how many have had this issue with the oil leak?
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:09 PM   #15
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I have found it works better for me(not saying everyone) to remove the check valve at the can and go with the straight 90* fitting

Whether you have the Oil cap breather of not I found it is just too restrictive compared to the straight fitting.Mine was gumming up from oil and wasn't bouncing as freely as when it was new.

I don't really see the need for it anyway unless you are centrifically blown to prevent reverse flow.

I'm top mount blown and my car seems to run better and idle better with valve removed.The suction is about double and the can is catching more oil with out the check valve as well

The OEM didn't have the check valve so it acts exactly the same when the can is simply plumbed in line.I don't have the Breather but getting make up air from the stock air bridge and dirty blow by vapors from the Valley nipple AND the Valve cover and it's plenty since a Harrop blower does not eliminate the valley breather like all the others,Maggie etc.

It just takes one more thing out of the equation.

I guess the key is if everything is hooked up correctly make sure you are getting plenty of Suction/Vacum or you are going to have problems.
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Last edited by 67motorcat; 04-04-2012 at 06:38 AM. Reason: clarified make up air origination
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
(Jason, please call when your at the car so we can go over every detail). so if anyone is in doubt as to the install, please call.

I work a day job Mon-Thurs 6:30am to 5pm... If I call after work it would be some time around 9pm there? Is that ok?

On that note, there has only been an oil spot about the size of a silver dollar under the car everywhere it has been parked today, so I assume the seal does not need replacing as mentioned above.

I do think I would like the unmetered valve to be installed in my can if you can please send that. I drive it year round, and the temps can get freezing cold so I don't want to chance a freezing valve.
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:29 PM   #17
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Another thing worth noting....I am by no means an expert here....

But I feel since most of the problems here seem to stem from the Oil Cap Breather,if it is not used and something does go wrong,and excess pressure builds in the crank case,the excess pressure can escape from the stock type air bridge make-up air connection.

Besides the breather being illegal,although is doesn't pollute,the value of keeping the clean side air intake PVC from dirtying up the throttle body seems low since it is so easy to clean every 6 months or so.

That is my thought...problem solved...am I on the rite track?
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:37 PM   #18
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Tracy, thanks for all the details...

One question, on a stock LS3 with the catch can and the breather, would there be any issues it I Tee'd the vacuum input into the can from both the valley cover nipple and also to the rear of the driver's valve cover?
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:47 PM   #19
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Thank you for posting that Tracy, that is basically what I thought the answer would be, I just didn't know how many CC were out there. Thats a great QC percentage for sure! Thanks for all you've done in the R&D of the CC, count me as one of the owners of both the CC and breather that work AS ADVERTISED.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:56 PM   #20
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Tracy, thanks for all the details...

One question, on a stock LS3 with the catch can and the breather, would there be any issues it I Tee'd the vacuum input into the can from both the valley cover nipple and also to the rear of the driver's valve cover?
Wondering that also, but for a slightly modified LS3.
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:11 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rberns View Post
To me, those who have this issue always have the breather installed with the RX CC. Anybody else notice this? I have the RX CC, without breather, and I have no problems so far.
I have the Rx Can and Rx Breather with no problems. Been on about a year.

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Old 04-03-2012, 10:42 PM   #22
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Confused. How does crankcase vapor make it's way to the valley and/or the heads? Is there a route between the block and the heads? I know there are passages for coolant and oil, but is there one for crankcase ventilation? Also, if there is excessive pressure, why wouldn't the cap on the driver's side valve cover pop off before the rear seal would leak?
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:30 AM   #23
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I have a rx CC installed on my l99. Its only been on a few days. I am a technical person with many years fixing things including cars but I don't understand two things. Why are the instructions that come with the can so unclear? I got ls3 instructions. The installation on a l99 is different than the ls3. It would be simple to make two sets of instructions with some decent pictures. Second I don't understand the purpose of adding the check valve on the outlet that seams to have no purpose. Its one more thing to go wrong or make a problem if the CC is connected wrong with the crappy instructions.
That's my 2 cents.

And I almost forgot the hose u send with the can is to short! Wtf with as much as the can costs you think you could add a few more inches of that cheap heater hose! !
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badbubba View Post
Confused. How does crankcase vapor make it's way to the valley and/or the heads? Is there a route between the block and the heads? I know there are passages for coolant and oil, but is there one for crankcase ventilation? Also, if there is excessive pressure, why wouldn't the cap on the driver's side valve cover pop off before the rear seal would leak?
There is a cast opening below the valley pan cover below the intake manifold.
You can see the camshaft from there so the crankcase can vent to the top of the engine through the lifter cups to the heads.

The Oil cap is screwed on so no way it would pop with excess pressure.The oil dipstick won't even do that,so the weakest point,gasket wise is the rear main seal since it is the largest and softest exit point.

That is why it is so important to have the CC hooked up correctly and ensure strong vacume especially if you have the breather Oil cap with the one way Valve.
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:30 AM   #25
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Called SC2150 yesterday at appx. 5:33 pm, no answer, left message. As I said, I work 6:30am - 5pm at my day job, then go to my shop and do my own thing at night, so it was probably 9:30pm there in FL (I'm in Oregon), so can't blame him for not answering.

He's supposed to be sending me the unmetered valve... From reading the post above, I'm assuming that my engine has more blow by than the metered valve can, and breather can take. I will replace the metered valve on the can for the unmetered one purely for the DD, sitting out in the freezing cold factor, and run without the breather. Still seems to be a silver dollar size spot of oil under the car everywhere I park it, i'm hoping it's just excess oil leaking out between the engine and bellhousing and it will stop soon. If not I'll have to take the can off and take it to the dealer for inspection/replace of rear main.

Breather going up for grabs in the pay it forward section later today. I'm not going to use it, and I can't see charging someone for it, hopefully they have better luck with it than I did.
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