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Old 05-05-2009, 07:45 PM   #1
WildBeast15
 
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Stereo GUIDE ALL READ

Ok here we go. here are a few things that are important in the audio world.

Electrical.
~ batteries~
TOP BRANDS
Kinetik and powermaster(same batts basicly) and BATTcap
Yellow tops are pretty much useless unless you just want one step up from stock.

~capacitors~
caps are just a band-aid for electric systems they drain WAY to fast..
1 farad is basically just a voltmeter. you would need 100 farad to equal ONE hc 600 (kinetiks smallest battery.)
these batts are made to be drained DAILY. and they hold their power way longer than a cap will. caps are basically a 100 dollar digi volt.

~Wiring~
you want a fuse every within 18 inches of all connections of atleast 150 amps.
You also want oxygen free cable Silver than copper than gold oxy free copper is the greatest IMHO.
KnuConcepts is the best out right now esp hyperflex type
Tsunami is great
so is monster cable

~Sub Brands~
Re
Dc audio
Rockford Fosgate
Sundown audio

mtx is good
PIONEER IS GREAT FOR SQ
DIAMOND IS ALSO
memphis
soundstream

~amp brands~
Us audio
Dc audio
Rockford Fosgate
Sundown audio
Diablo Audio Tech

PIONEER IS GREAT FOR SQ
DIAMOND IS ALSO
memphis
soundstream
cactus audio
Basiclly any company that uses xenon based boards.


~Alt Company's~
Tip for alts if you go above a 250 amp alt you better be using that for compettition setting only because of heat issues and low idle amperage.
250amp below is ideal for daily driving.
Companys
The tops are Dc Power
and Mechman alts.(he works for powermaster)
IRRAGI STAY AWAY THEY USE USED PARTS and do not put out the correct amperage.


Ported is generally louder than sealed and can hit some lower notes better.
Sealed sounds better and will hit harder in some cars.. my mountaineer sealed hits higher than ported. and sounds better and crisper.


AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST LINKS
-A-

a/d/s
-R-series sub specs
-A-series sub specs
-Amp specs

Adire Audio
-Brahma sub specs
-Shiva sub specs
-Koda sub specs
-Tempest sub specs
-Maelstrom sub specs
-Tumult sub specs

Aiwa

Alpine
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

Alumapro

American Bass

Ample Audio
-Subs
-Amps

Audiobahn
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

AudioControl

Audiovox

Autotek

-B-

Bazooka
-CS series sub specs
-CS series amplified tube sub specs
-CS series passive tube sub specs
-EL series sub specs
-EL series amplified tube sub specs
-EL series passive tube sub specs
-RS series sub specs
-RS series amplified tube sub specs
-RS series passive tube sub specs
-RX series sub specs
-RX series amplified tube sub specs
-RX series passive tube sub specs
-CS series amp specs
-EL series amp specs
-RS series amp specs

Becker
-Speaker specs
-Amp specs

Blaupunkt
-Overdrive sub specs
-Velocity sub specs
-Thin sub specs
-Amp specs

Bose

BOSS
-Speakers
-Amps

Boston Acoustics
-G5 sub specs
-G2 sub specs
-GTR sub specs

Bostwick
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

-C-

Cadence
-Subs
-Amps

CDT Audio

Cerwin Vega
-HED subs
-Stroker subs
-Vega Amps

Clarion

Clif Designs

Concept

Crossfire
-CF3 Sub specs
-DB3 Sub specs
-P1 Sub specs
-BMF Sub specs
-Class AB amp specs
-Class D amp specs

Crunch
-Speaker specs
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

-D-

Diamond Audio
-Product specs

Directed

Digital Designs

Dynaudio
-Driver specs

-E-

Earthquake Sound
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

Eclipse
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

Elemental Designs Audio
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

-F-

Focal

Fusion

-H-

HiFonics
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

Hollywood Sound Labs

-I-

Image Dynamics
-CTX sub specs
-ID sub specs
-IDQ sub specs
-IDMAX sub specs

Infinity
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

-J-

JBL
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

Jensen
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

JL Audio
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

JVC
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

-K-

Kenwood
-Sub sub specs
-Amp specs

Kicker

Kleiss Sound

Kove Audio
-Armageddon driver specs
-Ultra Armageddon driver specs
-XK driver specs
-XS driver specs
-Amp specs

-L-

Lanzar
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

Legacy
-Sub specs
-American Legacy amp specs
-American Legacy II amp specs
-Legacy II amp specs
-Red amp specs
-Sapphire amp specs

Lightning
-Driver specs
-Amp specs

-M-

MA Audio
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

MB Quart
-Discus series specs
-Premium series specs
-Q series specs
-Reference series specs

Mccauley Sound

McIntosh

Memphis
-Cast basket subs
-MClass series
-Power Reference series

MMATS Pro Audio
-Sub specs
-Class D amp specs
-SQ Series amp specs

MTX Audio
-Sub specs
-High-performance sub specs
-Amp specs

-N-

Nakamichi

-O-

Orion
-C-series sub specs
-H2-series sub specs
-P-series sub specs
-2 channel amp specs
-Class D amp specs
-Multi-channel amp specs

OZ Audio
-Matrix series specs
-Power series specs
-Vector series specs

-P-

Panasonic
-Sub specs

Phoenix Gold
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

Pioneer
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

Planet Audio

Polk Audio
-Sub specs

Power Acoustik
-Audio products

Precision Power
-DCX series sub specs
-Power class sub specs
-2 channel amp specs
-4 channel amp specs
-5 channel amp specs
-Mono amp specs

Pyle
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

Pyramid
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

-R-

Resonant Engineering
-HC series sub specs
-SE series sub specs
-XXX series sub specs
-RE-351D amp specs

Rockford Fosgate
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

Rockwood Hi Fi

-S-

Sinfoni

Sonic FX

Sony

Sound Storm Labs
-Driver specs
-Amp specs

SoundStream
-Davinci sub specs
-Picasso sub specs
-Rubicon sub specs
-Tranantula sub specs
-Davinci amp specs
-Human Reign amp specs
-Rubicon II amp specs
-Tarantula amp specs

SubSolutions
-Product specs

-T-

Targa
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

Toby Speakers
-Sub specs

TREO Engineering

Tru Tech

-U-

Ultimate Sound

Urban Audio Works
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

U.S. Acoustics
-Product specs

U.S. Amps
-Amp specs

USD Audio
-Sub specs

-V-

VIBE
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

Visonik
-Sub specs
-Amp specs

-X-

Xtant
-A series sub specs
-X series sub specs
-A series sub specs
-X series amp specs

-Z-

Zapco
-C2K series amp specs
-Z series amp specs
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:55 PM   #2
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There is a huuuuuge vault of info here
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Old 05-05-2009, 08:41 PM   #3
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took a long time to think of lol and alot of sources of info.. spent a good amount of time and its well worth it aslong as people learn from it i am happy
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Old 05-05-2009, 09:09 PM   #4
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Awesome

Thanks for the data. I have no idea what it means but I can appreciate the time and effort it took to type it out into this forum. Not really and audiophile at all. My last Camaro still had a cassette player and I thought it was rockin LOL Four speakers and a tape player, I've have motorcycles with better sound systems!!!

Thanks again!!
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Old 05-05-2009, 09:30 PM   #5
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You say capacitors are crap and then say monster cable is good.......pfft

and then JL audio isn't even in your sub list.......
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:31 PM   #6
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All over my head. Since you seem to know a lot... The most useful information to me would be for you to tell us what you are putting in your car (or what you would). Maybe start a member journal..
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:36 PM   #7
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Sorry I don't agree with the all important audio list...

150 amp fuses??? Yeah maybe if youre running some sort of monster competition setup youd put a 150 before your fuse block.

Capacitors CAN be a band-aid, but they also can be very useful for backing a hard hitting system without putting a monster electrical system behind it...

Not everyone is looking to win an IASCA tournament...
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:10 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus6 View Post
You say capacitors are crap and then say monster cable is good.......pfft

and then JL audio isn't even in your sub list.......
monster has Some of the best if your willing to pay for it....
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:11 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Rogue Leader View Post
Sorry I don't agree with the all important audio list...

150 amp fuses??? Yeah maybe if youre running some sort of monster competition setup youd put a 150 before your fuse block.

Capacitors CAN be a band-aid, but they also can be very useful for backing a hard hitting system without putting a monster electrical system behind it...

Not everyone is looking to win an IASCA tournament...
and 150 amp fuses are very practicle for anything over 1000 watts to prevent a surge destroying everything...
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:00 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by WildBeast15 View Post
and 150 amp fuses are very practicle for anything over 1000 watts to prevent a surge destroying everything...
Are you kidding me? Do you know what a fuse does?

I appreciate you advising everyone, but maybe you should keep your advice to yourself.

I can't think of one 1000 watt amp on the market that would EVER need 150 amps of power. Most standard car alternators don't even put out 150 amps!!!! Not only that not having a 30 or 40 amp fuse (which is what a 1000 watt amp really needs) means the amp is susceptible to power surges and excess loads that can cook it. Fuses are meant to stop that.

Half those links you posted don't work, do you even understand the info you posted?
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:28 AM   #11
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Do you even know what the function of a capacitor is? Capacitor's are not meant to be batteries, so don't expect them to perform like a battery. Capacitors are designed to store and release power very quickly. They are meant to shield your battery from sustaining sudden power draw brought on by hard hitting bass. They're not meant to sustain power to the amp should you be running one continuous deep note.

And like Rogue Leader pointed out, if your advice is to use 150amp fuses, then I don't quite understand how you've never fried an amp before.
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:41 AM   #12
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monster has Some of the best if your willing to pay for it....


After i set up a home theater test setup with a lexicon processor and krell amplifiers.I hooked up some monster cable and it actually threw the sound field off.I make my own cables now.


You may ask what makes my opinion credible ?
have a bachelors in EET
Repaired mobile audio (cd players, cd changers ,amplifiers) for sound advice for 5 years
Was an IASCA judge for install and Sound Q for 6 years
and set up high end home theater as a hobby
I even found the flaw in soundtream amplifers,called soundstream,they laughed,but their amplifiers continued to burn cars in to oblivion.

Monster cable is a farce ,one step DOWN from radioshack patch cables.
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:52 AM   #13
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For the average consumer who can't "make their own cables," then, what kind of cable would you recommend?
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:14 PM   #14
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I think the mods need to change the title of this thread to "stereo misinformation... do not read!"
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:35 PM   #15
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For the average consumer who can't "make their own cables," then, what kind of cable would you recommend?
Whatever is the cheapest at whereever your having it done.You will not be able to hear the the difference.Just like when people said "Minidisc sucks,because it has a low bitrate." and then they could not tell if i was playing a minidisc or cd
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:47 PM   #16
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Hello,

Crutchfield has an Amp Wire Sizing guide that lists the wire neccessary based on approximate draw from your amps. That guide is available here: http://www.crutchfield.com/Learn/lea...uge_chart.html

If your have a two Amp setup with one amp for speakers, 4 channel by 50 watts and a sub amp with 600 watts by 1 channel, you would calculate using the following method.

4 * 50 = 200
1 * 600 = 600
600 + 200 = 800
800/13.8 = 57.97 amps rounds to 60amps

I believe this means you would use a 60amp fuse and 8guage wire. I would however use 4 guage wire to be safe. If you find that your 60amp fuse keeps blowing, first check your system setup for shorts, then increase the amp size by 1 to the next largest amp size.

Cable is generally cable. The most important part is the guage of the wire. You want "oxygen-free" wire. If you are planning to re-wire the speakers as well, you will want twisted speaker wire as it helps to shield against interference running from your amp to your interior speakers. This interference isn't a big deal for short lengths of wire, i.e. amp to subwoofer.

I am by no means an expert, I am just trying my best to help with some information.
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Old 05-07-2009, 12:06 AM   #17
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Whatever is the cheapest at whereever your having it done.You will not be able to hear the the difference.Just like when people said "Minidisc sucks,because it has a low bitrate." and then they could not tell if i was playing a minidisc or cd
I do home theater as well. I love the $150 3 foot Monster HDMI cables that promise better sound and picture. Meanwhile you can get a 3 foot HDMI at firefold.com for $7 and no human could ever tell the difference... its a pure digital signal, it either works... or it doesn't. But people feel better about themselves for spending $150.
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Old 05-10-2009, 03:45 PM   #18
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

("Ok here we go. here are a few things that are important in the audio world." )

The only important thing in the audio world is hearing music the way the artist intended it to be heard, I have been tinkering with car audio since the 8-track days, and nothing you said makes any sense to me wildbeast !! You are creating a huge mess and spending tons of money in the process, I will pretty much leave the factory system alone. and spend my money on buying cd's by Foghat,Thin Lizzy, Cheap Trick Nazareth,REO,Foreigner .....,lol
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Old 05-10-2009, 04:21 PM   #19
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Unless you are competing, generally use a fuse block/circuit breaker that can support the total amperage draw of your system. If unsure, check with a Car Audio Store, for you also don't want to grill your expensive sound system...

Sealed boxes will play lower and more accurate, than ported boxes(louder @ tuned frequency). it's just that the sealed boxes may play @ such low frequencies inaudible
to human ears..whales maybe

Some of the amps I used to run required external(huge) fuses...ie US Amps..hehehe

..but seriously, this is a Camaro forum..
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Old 05-10-2009, 07:32 PM   #20
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Im going to be running 2 12" JL W3's with 2 Memphis 600Watt Mclass amps. They seem to hit pretty hard but are also very clean
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Old 05-10-2009, 09:32 PM   #21
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I do home theater as well. I love the $150 3 foot Monster HDMI cables that promise better sound and picture. Meanwhile you can get a 3 foot HDMI at firefold.com for $7 and no human could ever tell the difference... its a pure digital signal, it either works... or it doesn't. But people feel better about themselves for spending $150.
Try out www.monoprice.com better rates in my expierience.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:20 PM   #22
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I run seperate 4 GA cable from the battery to each of my PDX Alpine amps. I use a 30A fuse on each plus four 25 amp fuses on each amp. No power loss between battery and amps. The weak link as in most car audio systems is indeed the alternator, it is so hard to make people understand that.
Think about it this way, what causes black outs in public power supplies. It happens when demand exceeds supply. Car audio does the same thing, what do you think is happening when youv'e got it cranked and the headlights dim? Why do so many people think they can fix that with a battery or a cap? It comes down to needing more power which you will ONLY get from a higher output alternator.
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Old 05-10-2009, 11:25 PM   #23
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Try out www.monoprice.com better rates in my expierience.
I totally screwed up that price it was OTTOMH.....

Firefold 3 foot HDMI $4.49 ea, $3.84 ea for 50+
Monoprice 3 Foot HDMI $6.48 ea, $4.64 ea for 50+

not trying to be a jerk, just a price comparison, because i have been using firefold for years for my installs they have been good to me.
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Old 05-10-2009, 11:30 PM   #24
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I run seperate 4 GA cable from the battery to each of my PDX Alpine amps. I use a 30A fuse on each plus four 25 amp fuses on each amp. No power loss between battery and amps. The weak link as in most car audio systems is indeed the alternator, it is so hard to make people understand that.
Think about it this way, what causes black outs in public power supplies. It happens when demand exceeds supply. Car audio does the same thing, what do you think is happening when youv'e got it cranked and the headlights dim? Why do so many people think they can fix that with a battery or a cap? It comes down to needing more power which you will ONLY get from a higher output alternator.
Absolutely true....

But a 150 amp fuse is still useless on a power line to 1 amp... match the fuse to the amp

The problem is yes people use Caps as a bandaid for a power system that can't crank what they want. But in the same respect you don't need a 250 AMP alternator all the time either. A cap can be used to juice up your bass a little in a system on a car with 1 or 2 amps that already has a decent stock alternator (110amp +), however if you plan to drive that system hard all the time or add more, then putting a bigger alternator in is the way to go, and I would still leave the cap in anyway.
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1993 Volkswagen Fox - Race Car (yes seriously)

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Old 05-10-2009, 11:56 PM   #25
2010SLVRBULIT


 
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IASCA only does SQL, they've done away w/ dB Drags(SPL)..you don't have to have a monster system to compete in IASCA.
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