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Old 04-08-2012, 10:57 AM   #1
trz174
 
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ZL1 First Oil Change

Time to change the oil after a 1000 mile drive. Jacking the car up was a pain because the underbelly pan covers most of frame. We used a combination of floor jacks and jack stands to get it done. Not pretty but we applied maximum overkill and it's safe until we figure out something better.

Removal of the underbelly pan is easy. Just remove about a million bolts (love my 1/4 air wrench!), pop the two plastic holders at the rear and slide it backwards. The plastics holders don't look like they will last more than a couple of pulls. I'll probably replace them or just leave them off. Plenty of bolts hold the pan on and the plastic clips just keep the pan from hitting you in the head when the bolts are out.

We are headed to the parts store for a filter. Manual says PF-48 AC. Looks like these will also work: HP1017 K&N, PL12222 Purolator and PH10060 Fram. Couldn't find the ZL1 in the online lookup so we use the CTS-V.

First photos attached.

Last edited by trz174; 05-27-2012 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:00 AM   #2
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Is that salt on the floor pan?
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:05 AM   #3
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It looks like there may be an extra benefit of the pan as it will keep the engine and trans cleaner.
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:09 AM   #4
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Is that salt on the floor pan?
I had the same question... was salt between the belly pan and on frame from factory or from your break in driving?

It looks like the oil filter can drop out nicely without making a huge mess on subframe parts as well! Nicely designed!

Thanks for posting the photos and providing part numbers for us! Very much appreciated.

PS: Did you happen to replace the oil pan bolt with a magnetic one? Sourced from? Thanks!
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:04 PM   #5
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What do the jack points look like?
Would something like this help? (It's a bit rich for my blood, but maybe over the long run it might be worthwhile or does anyone know something similar?)
http://jackpointjackstands.com/Home_It_Works.html
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:26 PM   #6
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Why didn't you just use ramps?
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:43 PM   #7
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Why didn't you just use ramps?
+1

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Old 04-08-2012, 12:48 PM   #8
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What is a good ramp for a ZL1 or other car with even lower ride height and wider tires?
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:52 PM   #9
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I'd leave that off. Looks like the pan that came off my bothers GTO.


First start of weight reduction right there, easy 10lbs I bet.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:57 PM   #10
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Here's a video of the Jackpoint Jackstands.

After a few minutes of Googling these are starting to look to me like they might be worth it.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:57 PM   #11
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Looks easy enough.
I'd also wager a nice aero advantage with it on. Isn't K&N hp1017 same as the SS?
If you haven't already, load it up hard now to seat the rings. I usually take it to the dyno for this. Much safer and less expensive.
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:01 PM   #12
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I'd leave that off. Looks like the pan that came off my bothers GTO.


First start of weight reduction right there, easy 10lbs I bet.
In addition to the 'aerodynamics' purpose, ...the pan has cooling features designed into it. Notice in the pan photo above, on the right side (tail end), that is shaped for air flow up to the tranny for cooling.
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:07 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by IOMZL1 View Post
What is a good ramp for a ZL1 or other car with even lower ride height and wider tires?
Go to raceramps.com, I bought a pair for my Camaro and Vette and they work extremely well. They are made of foam and are coated with a rubbery abrasive finish so they won't slip on concrete. They only weigh approx. 6 lbs. a piece. I saw them demoed at Elkhart Lake, Wi. They are made in Michigan. You guys will love these ramps!
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shockandawe View Post
Go to raceramps.com, I bought a pair for my Camaro and Vette and they work extremely well. They are made of foam and are coated with a rubbery abrasive finish so they won't slip on concrete. They only weigh approx. 6 lbs. a piece. I saw them demoed at Elkhart Lake, Wi. They are made in Michigan. You guys will love these ramps!
Another feature is they are made with shorter ramps or longer ramps for cars that have low ground clearance.

get the two-piece version that the ramp portion can be taken off once the car is up on the ramp for better access to the underneath of the car from the side.
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:32 PM   #15
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I always get the oil maintenance package at purchase, so I don't have to deal with it, and I have a paper trail it's been done.
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:21 PM   #16
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Just as a matter of info, the oil filter is the same one used for the SS: AC PF-48.
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I'd leave that off. Looks like the pan that came off my bothers GTO.


First start of weight reduction right there, easy 10lbs I bet.
The underbelly pan is part of the aerodynamic designing...see the video with the lead design engineer for areodynamics.
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:44 PM   #18
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The guys at Jiffy Lube are going to love this car...
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:48 PM   #19
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Yes, it's salt. Will need to pressure wash later today.

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Is that salt on the floor pan?
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:31 PM   #20
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I always get the oil maintenance package at purchase, so I don't have to deal with it, and I have a paper trail it's been done.
Huh? Care to elaborate on the oil maintenance package?
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:42 PM   #21
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The guys at Jiffy Lube are going to love this car...


lol I was thinking same thing!
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:47 PM   #22
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Huh? Care to elaborate on the oil maintenance package?

There is an oil maintenance package that I bought through the dealer on my other cars. The SS was around $800 for a change every 5000 miles for 10 changes. You can pick what plan suits you best, I just go with the 5K package. The going price at the dealer for a SS change is around $100, so you will same a little in the long run because it locks in your price even if the prices go up for parts and labor. Plus I like having a paper trail for warranty. The big thing for me, is I'm getting too old to crawl under a car and deal with it.
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Old 04-08-2012, 04:42 PM   #23
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Hard to tell where the salt came from. It had residue all along the underside from front to rear. We cleaned everything under the pan and will finish the rest later today.

Filter was easy and no mess on the frame. I used the Bosch filter since it was part of an oil change package.

Didn't put a magnetic plug in but plan to as soon as I can find one.


Quote:
Originally Posted by htron50 View Post
I had the same question... was salt between the belly pan and on frame from factory or from your break in driving?

It looks like the oil filter can drop out nicely without making a huge mess on subframe parts as well! Nicely designed!

Thanks for posting the photos and providing part numbers for us! Very much appreciated.

PS: Did you happen to replace the oil pan bolt with a magnetic one? Sourced from? Thanks!
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:33 PM   #24
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Just looked at mine, it also has the same look of salt on the cover. It must have happened at the plant in Canada because I haven't driven it in the rain or snow.
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:44 PM   #25
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The guys at Jiffy Lube are going to love this car...

Know your trying to funny

But, my understanding of all NEW GM cars, must use the DEX (spelling ?) oil or void any power train warranty..

Too many horror stories of the Jiffy Lube type places doing damage to cars, wrong oils, caps left off, etc that I only get my vehicles serviced at the dealership!
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