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Cosmetic Maintenance: Washing, Waxing, Detailing, Bodywork, Protection Anything related to keeping your Camaro clean and in good cosmetic condition.

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Old 04-12-2012, 03:49 PM   #1
SoCalCamaro93
 
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When washing the car. .

I use "the absorber" to wash and dry. However, after I finish drying there are multiple light scratches on the car. Anyone else have this problem? What do all of you use to wash/dry?
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:54 PM   #2
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Micro fiber towels ...
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:55 PM   #3
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Micro fiber towels ...
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:55 PM   #4
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You washed with an absorber? And you used the same absorber to then dry the car?
Correct me if I'm wrong but basically you lifted dirt away from the paint with the absober then ground it back into the paint while drying. Theres your scratches.
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:55 PM   #5
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Never use an absorber or even worse, a chamois, to dry your car. They hold dirt and contaminents that cause those scratches. I learned the hard way too. Best way is to make sure you have a nicely waxed car, use the sheeting method to rinse, then blot dry (not wipe) with a good MF towel.
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:58 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by scythezo6 View Post
You washed with an absorber? And you used the same absorber to then dry the car?
Correct me if I'm wrong but basically you lifted dirt away from the paint with the absober then ground it back into the paint while drying. Theres your scratches.
No. I have one I use to wash and I use a separate one I only use to dry.
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:58 PM   #7
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Wash with a clean wash mit.
Rinse A LOT
California water blade
Leaf blower
Micro fiber towel with quick detailer.

Only thing I use an absorber for is wheels and jams. Seperate one for each and they're gross!

Not a scratch on my car from washing.
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:01 PM   #8
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Two bucket wash, one for cleaning the microfiber/mit, and the second to apply the clean, soapy water. Wash top down, front to back, and don't be lazy and cheat. The majority of your contaminants that cause scratches are going to be on the lower and rear portions of your car, so wash those last. Dry using soft microfiber and don't press hard, basically buff it dry. That should keep it nice between waxing.
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:09 PM   #9
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Blow most off with electric leaf blower thats sole job is this. Finish with micro-fiber towel
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallySS View Post
Two bucket wash, one for cleaning the microfiber/mit, and the second to apply the clean, soapy water. Wash top down, front to back, and don't be lazy and cheat. The majority of your contaminants that cause scratches are going to be on the lower and rear portions of your car, so wash those last. Dry using soft microfiber and don't press hard, basically buff it dry. That should keep it nice between waxing.
Agreed. But I would suggest a Master Blaster to dry with.
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:15 PM   #11
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So the blowers really work?
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:22 PM   #12
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Blowers are great... We're still talking about car washing, right?

Seriously, they work great. Use mine every time. Leaf blower or air compressor.
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:24 PM   #13
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Blowers are great... We're still talking about car washing, right?

Seriously, they work great. Use mine every time. Leaf blower or air compressor.

Yea blow jobs FTW






























































Never leaves water spots
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:28 PM   #14
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Here's what I do:
I have a Sears pressure washer, I use the gentle nozzle to rinse her down REALLY good, knocking off any dead bugs, tree sap, twigs, etc. THEN I use the "soap" nozzle, and Adams Car wash to soap her down REALLY well..I THEN take my mitt and split the car into 3 sections: roof, upper body and lower body.

I wash the roof first, then using the pressure washer, rinse her REALLY well to eliminate soap spotting. I use the mitt again for the upper body, then RINSE again, then the lower body, followed by another overall rinse. All this rinsing is to help avoid soap residue..

Once that's done, I grab my leaf blower and spend about 20 minutes blowing her dry. THEN I take Adam's detail spray and a micro-fiber cloth and wipe her down 'till she shines! takes all of about an hour...
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Old 04-12-2012, 05:37 PM   #15
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you have a black car, sorry but you have to get to seeing scratches. You can spend a weekend detailing the car and it only takes 1 or 2 car washes and the swirls are back.
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Old 04-12-2012, 05:49 PM   #16
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I use an absorber and I have no problems with it at all. I wash with terry cloths remove most of the water with a californa water blade and then use the absorber. Works great actually. I think take a clean micro fiber cloth To extra dry it.
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Old 04-12-2012, 05:55 PM   #17
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Two bucket wash and an electric leaf blower to dry.

Granted my car was used when I bought it, but paint looks great. We bought my wife a new SUV, the paint is still absolutely perfect, not one swirl or imperfection in it.
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:14 PM   #18
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Read this, it will get you on the right track!

Washing / Detailing instructions/ FAQ etc.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19526

Here's the main car wash / detail forum.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=45
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:19 PM   #19
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To the OP - you definitely want to use different tools to wash versus dry. People have some pretty ridiculously complex rituals when it comes to washing. I'd understand if these were limited production, $2 million cars with custom paint. For a car that you drive...it's overkill IMO. My method is pretty simple, but still pretty uptight:

I like to keep it simple. My cars look great for years using this. One big bucket of soapy, frothy water. Wash the car top to bottom, front to back. I use a cheap chenile cotton wash mitt (whichever is on sale, and doesn't easily pull apart). As extra precaution, I wash the rocker, lower half of the rear bumper, etc last since they are dirtiest. I use an older wash mitt (different color) to do wheels, the edges of the fender wells, exhaust and rear valence. Same bucket of soapy water, but I do pull the other wash mitt out and set it aside before I do the dirty stuff. If the car is really dirty, I'll pop open the doors and wash the rocker sills and run the mitt on the underside of the door to get any dirt off the weatherstripping.

Rinse.

Get as much water off as you can using the sheeting method (basically flooding a panel with water and letting the water sheet off with gravity). It saves time. Then, I squeegee with a water blade. (also saves time). For everything else (not wheels) I use an absorber to touch-up any drips or water around the edges of the windows, etc. Always squeegee and/or wipe with the lines of the body on horizontal surfaces, and vertically up/down on vertical surfaces. The light reflection and refraction is more prevalent with horizontal scratches on vertical surfaces. I'll usually pop the doors and the trunk and wipe down the sills with a terry cloth, and the wheels just so I don't get any water spots.

A good clay and wax will hide the minor swirls when they appear after a while (don't buff). Hand wax.

If your car is a driver, it will have enough rock chips and battle scars (hard bugs that screw up paint, maybe a scratch or two). If you keep it past 100k or 150k, and you're really upset with the paint, sand up the chips and have the car resprayed after that long.

Key is...I don't wanna spend any more than 30 minutes doing a "service wash" on my car. There's a whole lotta driving to enjoy, and while wash time in the driveway is nice, I've owned too many cars and have driven them all. An extra swirl here and there doesn't matter. Cars aren't made to last forever, they're meant to be enjoyed and not stress out their owners with the thought of getting a microscopic scratch when the car is getting washed.

(*Oh, and if you own a black car as a daily driver, all bets are off). --I had a brand new black Ford Focus in 2004 and I tried to keep that thing pristine. Didn't happen, despite multiple-bucket washing, sheeting to dry, constantly hand waxing, etc. It was the best damn looking Ford Focus with black paint *EVER*, but after 30,000 miles of driving, it had stone chips. Someone backed into it while it was parked. I creamed the front fender getting out of a parking garage. By the time I sold it (30k) 3 major body panels had been replaced, only one of which was my fault. It still had swirls despite my best attempts. It's just part of owning a car that actually gets driven.
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:25 PM   #20
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you don't have to live with swirls on a black car....just sayin'
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:30 PM   #21
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I use a blue 'absorber' towel on mine and never get scratches. I do, however, make absolutely sure the surface doesnt have any debris on it and the towel itself is completely clean.
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:36 PM   #22
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I got myself a Metro Blaster last summer and haven't had to use a microfiber of cloth of any kind any longer. Highly recommended. Gets water out from places you would never be able to get to otherwise.
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:59 PM   #23
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I dry my 'vert with a chamois cloth, only (although, it also helps that I have a light colored Camaro).
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:16 PM   #24
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you don't have to live with swirls on a black car....just sayin'

no you don't, but boy does it take a lot of work. not to mention, I wouldn't consider machine polishing something the novice should be doing. you can mess up your finish if your not careful or don't know what your doing.

personally, I can live with the every so faint scratches waxing doesn't take care of. unless the sun is shining directly down on the car on a very sunny day, and your starring with you nose 4 inches from the car you can't even see them.
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:38 PM   #25
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Another vote for two bucket washing, I use the Adams mitts.

I've been leaf blowing for about 6-7 years now and love it. Spot and swirl free, and super fast. I've considered the power dryers they sell, but I think they're way over-priced compared to the perfect results I've had with a $100 electric leaf blower.
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