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Old 07-27-2015, 08:04 PM   #1
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Dyno run. Thoughts?

First page is a before and after (it's an auto). Original run (several months ago) had 2.5 pulley, headers, and a roto-fab. 2nd run (earlier today and much hotter weather) added a cam and a 10% balancer.

2nd page is a more detailed page of todays run. Looks like I need a BAP.

Non HP parts added were a HX, tank and a catch can.










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Old 07-27-2015, 09:05 PM   #2
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Which cam?
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Old 07-27-2015, 10:32 PM   #3
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I made 740 on the stock pump. I think you should be ok for a while.
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:04 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Redlineviper View Post
I made 740 on the stock pump. I think you should be ok for a while.
No, he won't. Looks like he is dropping below 40 psi fuel pressure. Maybe only 35. Subtract from that the 15 psi boost and he is only getting 20-25 psi at the intake port.

During high load conditions you should be 65 psi. He's not even close.
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Old 07-28-2015, 07:35 AM   #5
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Cam specs are 13017R/3656R HR120+5. I also have 85 lb injectors in (they were in for the dyno last year too.

I thought the stock fuel setup could handle this without the BAP help. I'm guessing that the BAP should cure this issue?

Is it safe to run as is until I get the BAP put in?
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Old 07-28-2015, 08:02 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan View Post
No, he won't. Looks like he is dropping below 40 psi fuel pressure. Maybe only 35. Subtract from that the 15 psi boost and he is only getting 20-25 psi at the intake port.

During high load conditions you should be 65 psi. He's not even close.
I agree his pressure is falling off but if his pump is good, the volumetric efficiency shouldn't be that far off. That's why I said he "should" be OK for a while yet. May check the obvious like fuel filter or a kink in the line that could be impeding volume flow.
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Old 07-28-2015, 08:30 AM   #7
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Turbos are easier on fuel system too. Doesn't take as much crank HP (which is what fuel system cares about) to get same WHP. Turbos typically can make 50-60rwhp more on same fuel system than a blower setup.
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:21 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revo1059 View Post
Cam specs are 13017R/3656R HR120+5. I also have 85 lb injectors in (they were in for the dyno last year too.

I thought the stock fuel setup could handle this without the BAP help. I'm guessing that the BAP should cure this issue?

Is it safe to run as is until I get the BAP put in?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redlineviper View Post
I agree his pressure is falling off but if his pump is good, the volumetric efficiency shouldn't be that far off. That's why I said he "should" be OK for a while yet. May check the obvious like fuel filter or a kink in the line that could be impeding volume flow.
I see the fuel pressure dropping to 35psi on the top end. (20psi after you account for the boost pressure)

No way anyone should say that 20 is OK when it should be 65.
(30% of what it should be)

Its not like the fuel pressure was dropping only a few lbs.
It is being cut in half even before the boost correction.
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:22 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revo1059 View Post
First page is a before and after (it's an auto). Original run (several months ago) had 2.5 pulley, headers, and a roto-fab. 2nd run (earlier today and much hotter weather) added a cam and a 10% balancer.

2nd page is a more detailed page of todays run. Looks like I need a BAP.

Non HP parts added were a HX, tank and a catch can.










Power numbers seem very low for the boost and cam.

We make 650-675 RWHP on 11.5-12 lbs boost with our 650 RWHP package, Dynojets typically read 10% higher than my Superflow.

The JMS Fuel pump voltage booster is Standard in all of our power packages 125 RWHP and above, so Highly recommended at this stage of power mods.

Hope this helps answer some of your questions.

Ted.
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING View Post
Power numbers seem very low for the boost and cam.

We make 650-675 RWHP on 11.5-12 lbs boost with our 650 RWHP package, Dynojets typically read 10% higher than my Superflow.

The JMS Fuel pump voltage booster is Standard in all of our power packages 125 RWHP and above, so Highly recommended at this stage of power mods.

Hope this helps answer some of your questions.

Ted.
Any advantage to the JMS over the MSD?
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:28 AM   #11
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Any advantage to the JMS over the MSD?
Yes we found for cars that sit for any length of time beyond 4 weeks the MDS will drain the battery.

The JMS will shut it self down if there is no activity.

Also will be releasing a JMS FPVB that plugs in to your gas pedal as opposed to running a boost line up to the engine.

We have tested it on several cars already with test units and they work fantastic and simplifies the install.

Units are in production now and soon to be released.

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Old 07-28-2015, 10:19 AM   #12
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Me personally I would not be running WOT at 35 PSI. Sure you'll be fine for a while, then BOOM.....why risk it. In order to say just how far off your power numbers are, I would want to look at a stock run and compare the gains from your mods.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:20 AM   #13
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Well this sucks.......
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:22 AM   #14
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I would want to look at a stock run and compare the gains from your mods.
The first sheet has a compare. 1st run was rotofab, FIC injectors, 2.55 pulley and headers.

2nd run was with a cam and a 10% balancer added.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:22 AM   #15
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Well this sucks.......
Thats just my opinion, it isnt gospel. Ive got a 40 AMP ECS BAP I can ship today. But serioulsy, I do have one for sale.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:25 AM   #16
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I was referring to stock as in factory state. With no mods, comparing that number to other stock numbers can give you a decent reference.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:35 AM   #17
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Ahh, no I do not have a completely stock run, nor do I have the stock tune file.
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Old 07-28-2015, 02:58 PM   #18
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Not sure if you are aware but if you ever need to have it, getting your stock file is not hard. Any file from a ZL1 with your year and transmission will work. I'm not very educated on the options that come with the ZL1's but as long as the options and year are the same, the file can be uploaded, providing you license it. HPTuners has a tune repository and you can find one in there. Thats just one way.


Ted is dead on, the MSD BAP is nice, but, my experience is the same, if the car sits for a long time, I have a dead battery. However when I park my car for extended periods I always use a trickle charger anyway so its never an issue for me.
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Old 07-28-2015, 03:14 PM   #19
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Quote:
if the car sits for a long time, I have a dead battery.
What about running the power from an ignition source vs. a constant source, or if it has to come off the battery, using a relay controlled by an ignition source?
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Old 07-28-2015, 03:52 PM   #20
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Quote:
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What about running the power from an ignition source vs. a constant source, or if it has to come off the battery, using a relay controlled by an ignition source?
Sorry I dont know the answer to that question. Ted can most likely answer that. The MSD's instructions have you wire the power and ground to the battery directly. The ECS BAP does not need a separate power supply. So no battery drain.
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Old 07-28-2015, 04:20 PM   #21
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The MSD instructions have you wiring it assuming your fuel pump power wire is switched. In the camaro5 it's a constant power to the FPCM. When we sell an MSD we include instructions and extra parts that have it switching properly. No battery drain.
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revo1059 View Post
Cam specs are 13017R/3656R HR120+5. I also have 85 lb injectors in (they were in for the dyno last year too.

I thought the stock fuel setup could handle this without the BAP help. I'm guessing that the BAP should cure this issue?

Is it safe to run as is until I get the BAP put in?

Run it? Yes. But I wouldn't race it. The PCM will increase injector pulse width to compensate for the low fuel pressure to an extent. But you risking running lean and detonate the engine. Then you may be buying pistons, and a lot more.
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:31 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by 1KillerSS View Post
Not sure if you are aware but if you ever need to have it, getting your stock file is not hard. Any file from a ZL1 with your year and transmission will work. I'm not very educated on the options that come with the ZL1's but as long as the options and year are the same, the file can be uploaded, providing you license it. HPTuners has a tune repository and you can find one in there. Thats just one way.


Ted is dead on, the MSD BAP is nice, but, my experience is the same, if the car sits for a long time, I have a dead battery. However when I park my car for extended periods I always use a trickle charger anyway so its never an issue for me.
Almost! You original tune file is internally stamped with your VIN number. Put another tune in and there may be issues with the mismatch. Remember there are multiple electronic modules(computers) in the car that all talk to each other. An unrecognized VIN in one will trigger codes when it tries to communicate with the others.
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:38 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by 1KillerSS View Post
Sorry I dont know the answer to that question. Ted can most likely answer that. The MSD's instructions have you wire the power and ground to the battery directly. The ECS BAP does not need a separate power supply. So no battery drain.
I found the Kenne Bell BAP doesn't have any of those problems. And you run a wire the length of the car to trigger it instead of a vacuum line that might have a chance to get pinched or leak in the MSD.

I used the Lingenfelter kit specifically for the camaro that comes with everything you need. Otherwise you would have to source a lot of the required hardware and wiring yourself.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...E#.Vbg8rvlViko
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:55 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan View Post
Almost! You original tune file is internally stamped with your VIN number. Put another tune in and there may be issues with the mismatch. Remember there are multiple electronic modules(computers) in the car that all talk to each other. An unrecognized VIN in one will trigger codes when it tries to communicate with the others.

I am sorry for not making my self clear, I was assuming that the he or the tuner would cut and past those values. Still I had not considered what you have just said. Good to know, thank you.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan View Post
I found the Kenne Bell BAP doesn't have any of those problems. And you run a wire the length of the car to trigger it instead of a vacuum line that might have a chance to get pinched or leak in the MSD.

I used the Lingenfelter kit specifically for the camaro that comes with everything you need. Otherwise you would have to source a lot of the required hardware and wiring yourself.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...E#.Vbg8rvlViko
What are the differences between the Kenne Bell and ECS's rebadged Vortech unit? I was under the impression they both ran off a hobbs switch and were wired the same way.
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