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Old 08-06-2016, 09:12 PM   #1
Fishinfirefighter
 
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BAP install. Cars apart need help.

This has been probably the most annoying thing to put in my car to date. Cant find ANY info ZL1 specific info no matter how hard I search. Lingenfelter just shows SS rear fuse info, the JMS ZL1 install thread shows everything BUT what you actually NEED to see, my rear fuse box doesent list FCPM at ALL just body control module I believe....Which fuse do I need to tap into????? I just need the location from the ZL1 so I can splice into the wires behind the box. Along the way ive been bombarded with threads and opinions about how the BAP doesent work for ZL1, causes issues, burns pumps up.....FFS im so frustrated right now.
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Old 08-06-2016, 09:32 PM   #2
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I followed this and didn't have any issues. Pretty straightforward.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/PDFdownloads/L460111410.pdf
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Old 08-06-2016, 09:55 PM   #3
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Well I must have a 1 off zl1 then because my trunk fuse box doesn't even resemble the ones in the . PDF from lingenfelter. Mine doesn't list FCPM whatsoever on the cover or the manual either. Thats why I'm so confused.

And to add to that they don't show zl1 boost line tap either, it took me about 45m of searching but I was FINALLY able to find that info over on the ctsv forum.
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Old 08-07-2016, 12:08 AM   #4
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Show us a picture of what your rear fuse box looks like.
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:34 AM   #5
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I literally just finished the install of a JMS unit a few days ago, I could help you out because it is all still very fresh in my head, so post up that picture.
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Old 08-07-2016, 02:15 AM   #6
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At work or I would. I think I've got it figured out. The FPCM is a 30a fuse right? Schematic lists it as a red/white stripe and it's the only 10g? Wire back there so it must be that one. I'll splice into it after I volt check it tomorrow after work. Besides that I should have the rest covered. I was just kinda shocked at the lack of info for a zl1 vs most other common mods. I literally researched what mustve been 8-10h over the last week so I could just get it done real quick when the BAP got here and had more questions after vs when I bought the thing lol. The recent JMS thread was cool.... unfortunately he left out the most important part for me and I couldn't find a single pic of where to tap into for a boost source on ANY of the BAP write-ups for a zl1 until I headed over to the ctsv crowd.
That and all the hoopla about pre vs post FPCM, "they don't work", frying fuses.....etc. what a headache lol
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Old 08-07-2016, 02:31 AM   #7
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I found all the info I needed for the most part. Hardest part for me was programming the unit which wasn't actually hard just had to get some clarification on some instructions.
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:20 AM   #8
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I'm thinking I wasted my money on this BAP. Should've just ordered the JMS or went with a dual pump. I bought an ECS vortec BAP thinking screw it theyre all basically the same thing. Just read the KB with no knob (new version) won't work with our fpcm and guess what the ECS BAP doesn't have? Yeah.....a way to lower the voltage. FML.... about done with wiring it up then read about that. Sounds like I just wasted my time completely and all I'm going to do when I go test it out is blow fuses then have to re-do it all with a JMS or an older KB.

Sound about right?
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:26 AM   #9
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see here no need to splice wires just use a multi meter fuse socked and plug the sucker straight into the fuse point: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=439624

1. put a test light on the fuse point with no fuse installed find which side is power, run the 12v side of your BAP (the one with the fuse holder) to this side.
2. run the 2 long wires to the 5psi hob switch in the engine bay and tap it into your boost port
3. run the red 17v wire into the other side of the fuse socket
4. run the ground to either a ground on the body or the negative terminal on the battery.

Job done, when you hit 5psi the FPCM see's 17v...when you're just cruising along it gets 12v.
Mine works great I carry spare fuses just in case but have never blown any fuses.

Should you blow fuse after fuse after fuse with the install I have done with the multi meter fuse socket you can simply unplug put the standard fuse back in and have no boost a pump at all and just dont go into high boost until you fix your issue.

But again mine works great never had an issue.
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:34 AM   #10
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Okay, I'll do that then. Thank you sir!

Last edited by Fishinfirefighter; 08-07-2016 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:46 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishinfirefighter View Post
I'm thinking I wasted my money on this BAP. Should've just ordered the JMS or went with a dual pump. I bought an ECS vortec BAP thinking screw it theyre all basically the same thing. Just read the KB with no knob (new version) won't work with our fpcm and guess what the ECS BAP doesn't have? Yeah.....a way to lower the voltage. FML.... about done with wiring it up then read about that. Sounds like I just wasted my time completely and all I'm going to do when I go test it out is blow fuses then have to re-do it all with a JMS or an older KB.

Sound about right?
If you got this one
kb89069
It has everything you need.
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:08 PM   #12
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Okay all wired up, but when it's on its 17.4v measured from the hot going back in. Not quite sure if the fpcm is lowering that voltage or not before it gets to the pump and I haven't gone for a test drive to see if I'll pop a fuse.

But so far it's doing what it's supposed to I guess. Pump primes up to 65 and when I ground the Hobbs switch wire the voltage shoots up from 12-17.
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:33 PM   #13
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Booom. Hopefully this isn't a premature celebration but I just got back from a 30m drive beating the SNOT out my car with the BAP wired in. Logged fuel pressure the entire time, steady 50 cruising when I punch it it dips sprightly to 47-48 then PEGS up to 65-68 WOT through 3rd. Don't have a place I can WOT 4th but I'm pretty confident so far. Got the tune coming Wednesday to smooth the dip out and finish my original cut short tune. Prior to BAP my pump dipped all the way down to 37psi on the dyno and on the road I could get it down to low 40s in 2nd at will.
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Old 08-08-2016, 03:14 PM   #14
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Sound like you got it working. No need to try 4th if it's working in 1,2,3.
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