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Old 04-23-2012, 03:03 PM   #1
Protomanx8
 
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Oil pan leaking

Have my car in the shop getting work done and my gasket is leaking. I only have 40k miles on the car. I don't think it should be leaking already . Any one else have this ? Also should warranty cover it ?
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:14 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Protomanx8 View Post
Have my car in the shop getting work done and my gasket is leaking. I only have 40k miles on the car. I don't think it should be leaking already . Any one else have this ? Also should warranty cover it ?
I had mine leaking at 500 miles
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:14 PM   #3
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Are you sure it's the pan, and not porosity of the block? Some of the blocks were defective and leaked oil through the block.
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:30 PM   #4
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yes I have a 2010 SS 1 Vin#4583 with 5100 miles and I just dropped mine of this morning for the same problem. The mechanic that's fixing the car told me that this is the 5th SS he's fixed because of the rear main seal so your not alone.
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:32 PM   #5
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Are you sure it's the pan, and not porosity of the block? Some of the blocks were defective and leaked oil through the block.
I believe that was a problem in the head, not the block. anyway, did you maybe run over something and bump the pan?
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:53 PM   #6
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I believe that was a problem in the head, not the block. anyway, did you maybe run over something and bump the pan?
Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine oil leak.

Cause
Upon initial diagnosis, it may be determined that the leak is coming from the rear cover gasket. This condition may be caused by engine block porosity on the sealing surface. This issue pertains to aluminum block applications only.

Correction
Follow the steps for Oil Leak Diagnosis in SI to determine the source of the leak. If the leak has been diagnosed as coming from the engine rear cover assembly, refer to Engine Rear Cover Replacement in SI and remove the engine rear cover assembly. Inspect the engine block and engine rear cover for porosity on the mating surfaces.

• If porosity is found on the engine rear cover (see illustration below), replace the engine rear cover assembly, GM P/N 12633579.

• If porosity is found on the engine block, use the following procedure to apply RTV to repair the engine block porosity.

The porosity issue is in the gasket sealing surface at the top of the cover, near the high pressure oil crossover port. Refer to the picture below. The oil leaks by the gasket and runs down the side of the cover, and may appear to be a leak at the t-joint area of the cover. The fix is to replace the cover with GM P/N 12633579. Also, if porosity is found anywhere on the sealing surface of the engine block, use the following procedure to apply RTV to repair the engine block porosity. Refer to the illustration below.


Rear main seals are known issues.
Oil Pan leaks are known issues too.
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:42 PM   #7
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Yeah, I've been having this issue on mine w/ under 30,000mi. Looks like the rear main area. Had a few other things replaced under warranty oil related, all covered. These engines are turds, gonna ditch mine after the loan is paid off. My LS1 in my '01 SS was friggin bulletproof, never leaked. Although I broke my theory of waiting 3 years to buy a redesigned/new car with my '10. Bugs prolly aren't worked out across the board yet.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:02 PM   #8
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It's a pisser when these things occur, but they can be repaired. I've had the oil pan, rear main and oil cooler all leaking within the first 5000 miles. Have had no furthur problem following repair.
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:19 PM   #9
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I'm knocking on wood right now. Yeah, it definitely gives you an uneasy feeling in the pit of yer gut when you spend all that money on a new/gently used vehicle and the initial quality is crap. Would be curious if recalls would be drawn up if there were enough occurrences like these.
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:25 PM   #10
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i have changed a few of these pan gaskets for people,, looks like gm changed the design of the gasket, the ones i took out were grey in color and the rubber was very spongy, the new gm gasket is black and the rubber is very firm, i have been using a bead of anarobic sealer on the metal portion of the gasket, top and bottom and all have been dry for months now,
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:53 AM   #11
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I've had the oil cooler on mine leak. It was fixed and no additional problems have come up. Mine had about 10k on it when I noticed the oil cooler drip.
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:31 AM   #12
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I had both my oil pan and cooler gaskets replaced at 3,000 miles due to leaking...
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:35 PM   #13
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11,000 miles and I've had the oil cooler leak and the oil pan leak. The dealer told me that the pan gaskets are far more likely to leak than the oil cooler. This information came from the call the dealer made to GM technical.

Anyhow, it does suck when these things happen.
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:16 AM   #14
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Looks like I spoke too soon. My pan is now leaking!

Does anyone know if the motor has to come out to make this repair? My dealer has the parts but tells me it will take days to complete because they have to take the motor out to change the pan and gasket.
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Old 05-18-2012, 05:41 AM   #15
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My service rep tells me that the engine has to be "lifted up a little" to get the pan out. What this translates into as far as ripping parts off the car, I have no idea.

I'm supposed to get my car back today or Monday. I will be asking a lot of questions when I go to pick it up.
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Old 05-18-2012, 07:43 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by TheHorse13 View Post
My service rep tells me that the engine has to be "lifted up a little" to get the pan out. What this translates into as far as ripping parts off the car, I have no idea.

I'm supposed to get my car back today or Monday. I will be asking a lot of questions when I go to pick it up.
you won't be getting a lot of answers...
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Old 05-18-2012, 07:49 AM   #17
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My car looks like it has a small oil leak...and i beleave its the rear main seal or oil cooler gasket..will they replace this if my car is tuned already?

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Old 05-18-2012, 08:12 AM   #18
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you won't be getting a lot of answers...
Why not? Have you gone through this repair already?
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Old 05-18-2012, 08:20 AM   #19
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Why not? Have you gone through this repair already?
No i have not but when i was doing my camshaft..i noticed some oil..but not.on the ground just in the housing...so i dont wanna bring it in if the warranty wont cover it..my warranty expires in july so im tryin to get as much done as possible

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top 10 reason why real men drive stick.

10. A manual transmission is the ultimate in control
9. You can use automotive jargon and not sound like a total tool
8. You can't spell "manual" without "man"
7. Manual transmissions prove you can do more than one thing at a time
6. You can't drift in an auto
5. You can't pull fancy moves in an automatic
4. You get better fuel economy with a stick
3. You’ll never look like a chump if you can drive stick
2. Manual transmission cars are faster
1. Women like a guy who is good with his hands.

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Old 05-18-2012, 09:18 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by jeffny09 View Post
No i have not but when i was doing my camshaft..i noticed some oil..but not.on the ground just in the housing...so i dont wanna bring it in if the warranty wont cover it..my warranty expires in july so im tryin to get as much done as possible

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Your warranty won't cover it since you've already tuned your car. Consider your powertrain warranty kaput.
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Old 05-18-2012, 09:39 AM   #21
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Your warranty won't cover it since you've already tuned your car. Consider your powertrain warranty kaput.
Yea thats what i thought. How would i replace those seals.

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top 10 reason why real men drive stick.

10. A manual transmission is the ultimate in control
9. You can use automotive jargon and not sound like a total tool
8. You can't spell "manual" without "man"
7. Manual transmissions prove you can do more than one thing at a time
6. You can't drift in an auto
5. You can't pull fancy moves in an automatic
4. You get better fuel economy with a stick
3. You’ll never look like a chump if you can drive stick
2. Manual transmission cars are faster
1. Women like a guy who is good with his hands.

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Old 05-18-2012, 09:56 AM   #22
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The rear main seal requires you to separate the motor from the trans. You better pray it's not the pan gasket or the block porosity issue. Those repairs will cost you a lot of money since your warranty is gone.
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:30 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by TheHorse13 View Post
The rear main seal requires you to separate the motor from the trans. You better pray it's not the pan gasket or the block porosity issue. Those repairs will cost you a lot of money since your warranty is gone.
Its barley even a leak ..no leak on the ground just saw somw drops on the bottom of car

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top 10 reason why real men drive stick.

10. A manual transmission is the ultimate in control
9. You can use automotive jargon and not sound like a total tool
8. You can't spell "manual" without "man"
7. Manual transmissions prove you can do more than one thing at a time
6. You can't drift in an auto
5. You can't pull fancy moves in an automatic
4. You get better fuel economy with a stick
3. You’ll never look like a chump if you can drive stick
2. Manual transmission cars are faster
1. Women like a guy who is good with his hands.

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Old 05-18-2012, 11:22 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by TheHorse13 View Post
The rear main seal requires you to separate the motor from the trans. You better pray it's not the pan gasket or the block porosity issue. Those repairs will cost you a lot of money since your warranty is gone.
Sounds like an opportunity to take that money and buy some new tools! I've always wanted an excuse to go buy an engine hoist and some extra floor jacks

... I wonder if mine leaks too
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:30 PM   #25
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You should read the TSB for these repairs. One calls for a "special" tool to lower the entire sub frame of the car in order to get to the pan. Good times...
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