Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Grabiak Performance Center
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Marketplace > Members Classifieds - Parts for sale or wanted > V8 - Engine, Exhaust, Bolt-Ons, Tuning Equipment

V8 - Engine, Exhaust, Bolt-Ons, Tuning Equipment Intake, exhaust, tunes, other bolt-ons for V8 Camaros

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 04-24-2012, 06:16 AM   #1
Corvette-camaro
 
Drives: Camaro 2010 auto trans
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Dubai
Posts: 61
Rx's or Moroso's catchcans ?!

I know that most of you guys has RX catchcans, am looking for one and found this "Moroso catchcan": http://www.phastekperformance.com/20...-can-85487.htm
Did anyone tried it ?!
Thanks
Corvette-camaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 07:46 AM   #2
L99CAMA2011


 
L99CAMA2011's Avatar
 
Drives: One of the baddest handling Gen 5s
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Masachusetts
Posts: 2,754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Corvette-camaro View Post
I know that most of you guys has RX catchcans, am looking for one and found this "Moroso catchcan": http://www.phastekperformance.com/20...-can-85487.htm
Did anyone tried it ?!
Thanks
I actually had both and I think I like the Moroso better. Most on here would disagree though my car felt like it lost a bit of compression when I installed the RX can, so I sold it. The Moroso on my L99 had no issue at all.
L99CAMA2011 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 09:29 AM   #3
Corvette-camaro
 
Drives: Camaro 2010 auto trans
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Dubai
Posts: 61
That exactly what i want to hear, thanks
Corvette-camaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 11:13 AM   #4
SC2150
Account Suspended
 
Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 6,077
Quote:
Originally Posted by L99CAMA2011 View Post
I actually had both and I think I like the Moroso better. Most on here would disagree though my car felt like it lost a bit of compression when I installed the RX can, so I sold it. The Moroso on my L99 had no issue at all.

Compression has no relation to anything in the crankcase evacuation system, compression is a function of the piston, rings, and cylinder bore surface....a catchcan has nothing whatsoever to do with compression and couldn't........so thats a joke.

The Moroso is an awesome looking high quality built can, but allows as much as 20% oil pull through in testing so if you dont care about trapping all the oil that causes the issues then go with it, the RX can is the most efficient functioning on the market period. That is a challenge that has been out for the world the past 7 years and no can has matched it yet.

The RX can also has integrated flow controlling checkvalve.

Also, the RX can is over twice the internal capacity so the flow can slow enough to prevent oill "pull-through".

With over 10,000 in use the RX can is one of the highest reccomended on the market.

Below are pictures of the Moroso style can. You can see it has no designated inlet or outlet and has media tight against both fittings so the oil saturated media allows oil to be sucked right through.



It will catch oil, as any can (even a empty beer can with 2 fittings in) but the idea of a properly functioning catchcan is to trap ALL the oil....not just some.

You can test any can very easily by installing a clear glass inline fuel filter between the can and the intake manifold. It only takes a few minutes to install, only costs $10, and it will show you what gets pulled past any can instead of blindly trusting biased claims (test ours and see). Within a few hundred miles you will see it saturated in tests on the moroso can.

Now below are pictures of the RX cans internal design. It has app 7" from the inlet to the outlet. The perforated dispersion tube running down the center first disperses the oil laden vapors into a meida condensing chamber separate fromt the other chambers. The vapors are cooled and the media helps coalesce the oil to droplets that are then pulled into the conatinment chamber. The vapors then have to travel back up along the outer walls further cooling and condensing any oil that may have been missed and further forced around the disc baffel into the outlet chamber where the flow controlling oneway checkvalve meters the flow so it is slow enough to prevent any of the trapped oil from pulling through.


above is a length ways cutaway and below the components before assembly:



Now lets simplify this even more.....when a flow of any gas or liguid travels through a large chamber, that flow slows while in the chamber and with a catchcan, any liquid can be drawn through if that flow is traveling too fast (think the dentist suction tube that pulls the water rinse from your mouth, or a straw with liquid in it). So the smaller a chamber, the faster the velocity and that pulls liquid through with it. The larger the chamber the more the flow slows while traveling through the chamber so droplets fall out of supension.

Now, take a wash cloth wet with water. Put a straw against it and suck....you will pull that water out the straw as it is trapped in the washcloth right on the straw end. Now move that straw awy even 1" and you will pull NO water when you suck on it. The same principal applies here. Oil is a liquid once it is condensed and if that saturated media is place against the outlet....it pulls oil right out along with the flow defeating the much of the purpose of a oil separating can. Now remove the filter medai from the side you are going to use as an outlet, and you will find the moroso can works much better letting far less oil pull through.

Now look below at some of the other cans on the market and even though the design is simple in some, they work far better as the outlets are distanced from the saturated oil soaked media:

The Mike Norris, a proven excelent functioning can is on the left. It has the vapors enter the top of the can, travel through a small but separate chamber that has filter media in it, and that traps and coalesces the oil into droplets that then fall to the bottom to collect to be drained later. The outlet though close to the filter chamber, is still separated and very little oil is drawn out or "pulled through". You can clearly see why the Mike Norris can works so well.

To the right of the Norris can is a cheap good looking "Ebay" type can. Look at the inside of it....no chambers, no media, no baffels. Much of the fumes just do a quick U trun and right out....it, as any can, will still catch oil so when you go to drain it you see oil and think...it works! Yes, and container....even a little plastic air compressor separator will catch oil.....but it is what is pulled through that is of concern and most cans do NOT function efficiently due to the rush to put a product on the market.

Now, look at the top can by AMW (very similar to the Elite in design) and it has a large, very effective chamber with media in it. The vapors enter the top and go through a large chamber to cool and trap the oil to droplets that then fall to the bottom for draining later, and the outlet is 2" plus up the side of the main body. This allows even less oil pull through due to the distance and both brands are amoung the best functioning on the market.

There are several others that perform extremely well also so there is no reason if your goal is to trap and stop all, or nearly all of the oil ingestion to use a can that only does part of the job. This is all easy to understand, the pictures show the designs in detail, and you can test any can or the principals described by yourself if you truely want to understand how and why certain cans work well and the majority work very poorly.

Anyone can get caught up in hype and politics and marketing.....but there are reasons some products perform extremely well (FAST composite intake manifold VS BBK aluminum that heat soaks) and other that look great do not.

This is with any product.......all it takes is time to actually examine and learn rather than trust anyones basic claims (myself included).

The world of products is full of unreasonable claims (turbonator) and snake oil products....but it is also full of excellent proven products. Just because a big name is on something does NOT mean you should blindly trust it is the best....allthough Most products with the Moroso brand are some of the best on the market and we use several above any other.....this is one where it can be improved and work much better than it comes.

I'm not asking anyone to buy my product over another (or I certainly would not go to the detail I have here to show other direct competitors that work very well and why), just to understand the principlas behind why a product does or does not work well and then decide.

A perfect example is L99cama here.....he made a crazy assumption that is impossible, and he is happy to have went with a product that lets a good amount of oil still into his intake air charge so he is not concerned with function....just hype and appearance which is fine...its a free world. But if you want to actually understand it all then research and push aside the marketing and hype......understand why one product works better than another no matter what that product is or claims to do.

I dont know of a single person anywhere on any of the forums that has done the amount of research, testing, and design than I have on this much misunderstood system that seems to cause so much controversy as so few actually care to look into and understand why and how these do or do not work well. And yes, ANY can is better than no can no matter how little it may actaually trap....as you do not want oil ingestion into the intake air charge.

SC2150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 11:24 AM   #5
Corvette-camaro
 
Drives: Camaro 2010 auto trans
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Dubai
Posts: 61
Very nice. Thanks bro.
Am convenced now
Corvette-camaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 11:26 AM   #6
Nessal


 
Drives: Lotus Exige
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: CA, Bay Area
Posts: 2,284
Moroso looks better but I can't see it working well to even a fraction of the RX or Mike Norris can. Just look at the design of the Moroso can. Common sense will tell you that there is going to be pull through.
Nessal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 12:07 PM   #7
SC2150
Account Suspended
 
Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 6,077
Moroso is one of the nicest looking on the market I totally agree. Very percise machining also and the drain is a high priced 1/4 turn ball valve like we use on the Monster can, so it is all quality....just the design can be improved to make it function much better. I have shared this in detail w/moroso but they have no intention of changing it and did not appreaciate my fingings and input on how to make it function much better......just removing the filter media from the side you use as the outlet greatly reduces the pull-through.
SC2150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 12:13 PM   #8
Out4it
Banned
 
Drives: 2011 2LT/RS
Join Date: May 2011
Location: N.E. Philly
Posts: 628
I have the RX and it had various amounts of oil in it at EVERY oil change. I changed mine at 150,300,600,1500, 3000 and 10,000. So I'd say it works. As for beauty,I think the paint job on mine was fantastic,it was painted RJT. Not as pretty as Moroso,but no big deal. I'd rather funtion over beauty anyday.

Last edited by Out4it; 04-24-2012 at 12:29 PM.
Out4it is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2012, 02:05 PM   #9
calbert1999
Camaro SS Lover
 
calbert1999's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Black IOM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Toronto, Ontario (Canada)
Posts: 2,852
I have the Moroso can, work great and the quality is amazing. If you have a skilled mechanic he'll get it to work just right.

This is what I found in mine the 2nd. time I drained it after 2.5k/kms.

Can't speak for the RX, I'm sure it's a decent product but for me Moroso all the way.
Attached Images
 
calbert1999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2013, 01:21 AM   #10
EZStreet
 
Drives: 2013 Hemi Ram Laramie Quad Cab
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oakville, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
Moroso is one of the nicest looking on the market I totally agree. Very percise machining also and the drain is a high priced 1/4 turn ball valve like we use on the Monster can, so it is all quality....just the design can be improved to make it function much better. I have shared this in detail w/moroso but they have no intention of changing it and did not appreaciate my fingings and input on how to make it function much better......just removing the filter media from the side you use as the outlet greatly reduces the pull-through.
Hi,
My son bought me the Moroso air/oil separator for my new 2013 Ram Hemi
Quad Cab. Then I happened upon some of your posts about the RX products which seem very impressive and no doubt highly effective. From the design I can see why it works so well. I can't see buying another one when I still have the Moroso in the box, brand new and it was an internet purchase as well. Can you give me a guesstimate on how much of a difference removing the filter media from the output or return side of the Moroso air/oil separator #85479 as it looks like now I'm going to have to use it in spite of what I've learned from your posts. Thanks for your help.

EZ
EZStreet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2013, 10:21 AM   #11
SC2150
Account Suspended
 
Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 6,077
If you remove the media from the side you use as the outlet, then it will work app 10-20% more effectively by not holding that oil satuarted media right at the outlet so it is all suck right out (like a wet washcloth will if you suck on it).

The other issue you cant correct is the internal volumne is so small that the speed of the flow through cannot slow enough to allow the droplets that are dripping from the inlet chamber to not be pulled along (like a straw and spilt soda on a table if you suck on it).

So, it will catch oil (even a beer can does catch oil, so you cant judge by "it catches oil".

So try that, and just for the heck of it install a clear glass inline fuel filter between the outlet and the intake manifold and post pictures.

At least your doing something to reduce the oil ingestion.!

SC2150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2013, 12:06 PM   #12
The 2010 Sin
CorkTulsa.com
 
The 2010 Sin's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 2SS BLK, 2013 2SS CRT
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,847
Tracy, I've never had my RX catch can with anything in it. Its all plumbed correctly and I have the breather also. (not sure if you remember the diagrams I built asking you about the lines and you said they were correct) but this is my 3rd or 4th oil change with it and i've captured zero oil. My car is aftermarket rotating assembly and large cam etc. you would think i would get more than the average person.

your thoughts?
__________________
The 2010 Sin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2013, 01:07 PM   #13
EZStreet
 
Drives: 2013 Hemi Ram Laramie Quad Cab
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oakville, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
If you remove the media from the side you use as the outlet, then it will work app 10-20% more effectively by not holding that oil saturated media right at the outlet so it is all suck right out (like a wet washcloth will if you suck on it).

The other issue you cant correct is the internal volumne is so small that the speed of the flow through cannot slow enough to allow the droplets that are dripping from the inlet chamber to not be pulled along (like a straw and spilt soda on a table if you suck on it).

So, it will catch oil (even a beer can does catch oil, so you cant judge by "it catches oil".

So try that, and just for the heck of it install a clear glass inline fuel filter between the outlet and the intake manifold and post pictures.

At least your doing something to reduce the oil ingestion.!


Hi Tracy,

Thank you for the input. Looks like I might end up purchasing the RX anyway. It would drive me crazy knowing the system I was using really
wasn't doing the job I want from it.

Tell me something, what effect would putting an aluminum separation wall between the input and exhaust sides of the catch can cylinder. For the sake of argument 1/8" thk. and drilled it with say 1/8"-1/4" holes all through it....except for the bottom edge.....where it would meet the bottom of the cylinder...or cut it short so it leaves a little bridge or bypass connecting the two sides. Maybe it would be better to keep the sides separated and run it right to the bottom?

That, in effect would keep the liquid oil on one side and the gaseous by products having a slowed down pathway to the throttle body on the exhaust side for disposal. Would the perforated wall between the two chambers work in your opinion......

Thanks Tracy

EZ

Last edited by EZStreet; 04-04-2013 at 02:42 PM.
EZStreet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2013, 01:13 PM   #14
EZStreet
 
Drives: 2013 Hemi Ram Laramie Quad Cab
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oakville, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4
Tracy,

Maybe leave the top third of the separation wall solid, so the wet air is kept as far from the exhaust exit hole as possible?

EZ
EZStreet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2013, 04:21 PM   #15
SC2150
Account Suspended
 
Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 6,077
2010 syn..that would be a first out of over 11,000 in use. Can you post detailed pictures of your hoses and where all runs? And you have verified the drain is closed (threads out extended, open threads are retracted up into the can) SOmething simple is happening.

EZ,

Since the lower collection chamber is so small you could not go to far before it will cause the caught oil to splash and cause more info:

As for cans, here are the most common you will see and a detailed description on how they work, (and dont work).

We'll start with some of most common ebay/made in china ineffective cans that are really no more than a "empty beer can":

This one is very common and is generally bought from ebay, but several company also brand it. Comes with fittings, a universal braket, sight tube to see when it needs to emptied:


And the inside......notice not only is it completely an empty can, but the fittings are just punched in with metal filings hanging:


This is another Ebay/China cheapo. Looks nice, ends are milled from billet and the main body extruded aluminum. This can is very common and is seen in many colors and with over 20 companies branding it as "their own design". Search on ebay to see for yourself:


And as you can see, allthough it is a good size, and looks nice, just an empty can again. The majority of all vapors enter and do a quick U turn and exit:

So again, no different than an empty "jumbo" beer can.

And now to another variation of ebay/china. Sight windows and can be had in several colors or a carbon fiber wrap:


Now the inside:
Bonded together with plastic resin...this insulates it greatly reducing the ability to condense oil vapors....and since it relies on the plastic to seal it this one had a good sized vacuum leak where it didnt get coated, and time will tell if this resin delaminates over time from the fuel/oil vapors. It also has what the instructions describe as a "Robber Strip".....not sure what that is.


Notice, if they would have designed it so the inlet tube protruded through the screen, it would actually have a bit better effectiveness, but since it terminates in the top the majority of the vapors just do a quick U turn back out.



Now on to one made in the USA, quality of the machining is top notch, excellent appearance, solid bracket. You will see dozens of variations of this with the appearance slightly different on the top and some cary very well known brands:


Now look closely at the internal design. There is no specified inlet or outlet, and when you unscrew it you see the vapors enter through one fitting, travel through coalscing media (so far so good) but it just U turns into the outlet side into more coalscing material which acts the same way as taking a wet wash cloth and holding it to your mouth and sucking on it...the liquid pull right through. So even though it looks awesome, and the machining is top notch, since it is so small the flow never slows enough to allow most droplets to fall out of suspension so they suck right into the other side and out the outlet.

A can has to be large enough so the velocity, or the flow speed through the can slows enough for the condensed droplets to fall out of suspension and not carried through (take a straw and drip a small amount of water in a saucer, suck on the straw and it will draw the liquid up completely...similar to the dentist suction tube, now take a piece of garden hose and try the same....you wont get any, or almost no liquid due to the internal volumn of the hose/straw/container used as an oil separator.




Let me add in the home air compressor separators many use:

These will catch oil, but stayrate in a few hundred miles allowing all oil to pull through after it reaches saturation. As this one shows, this company adds a hose to the drain to return the contaminated oil to the crankcase reintroducing the damaging combustion byproducts into the engine oil accelerating wear and damage. All in not understanding all the purposes and functions of todays PCV systems.

Now on to the ones that work. Starting with the Mike Norris, CCA, (and several others that brand this unit). As you can see, the oil enters the top, passes through a small chamber with coalescing material that does a good job of separating the oil and as the flow pulls through, the larger droplets fall into the bottom for collection and only the smallesr ones get pulled through. Mainly because the outlet is only 1" from the droplets dripping out of the chamber as the speed of the flow will pull a small amount through. This is a very good functioning can and allows a very small amount of pull through and is one we endorse as worth using on most NA applications. Nice looking, durable, and functional for the reasons listed:


On to the next 2 that are excellent in function and quality. The Elite and the AMW. Both are slightly different in appearance, but both use the same basic very effective design internally. Even though from the outside they may look similar to the one with so many brands that does not work well, these work excellent:

First the Elite:



Look above closeley. The coalescing chamber is quite large and is very effective in trapping the oil from suspension and all but the smallest drops fall to the bottom where they are trapped to drain later. The outlet barb is app 2" from the bottom of the coalscing chamber so less chane for pull through. Excellent can we also endorse.

The AMW:



A bit different in appearance, but using the same internal principal of the Elite.....an excellent can that we also endorse.

These last 3 I want to point out are direct competitors of RX but are excellent (some of the ONLY ones worth purchasing out of the hundreds to choose from) and have our endorsement. Well worth buying and installing to prevent the issues described throughout this thread.

Now the RX can. Several things in this design are unlike any other on the market. The distance the oil laden fumes travel from entering, through 3 different chambers which each have a function, is over 7" so pull through from droplets falling to the bottom for collection is near impossible. It also is nearly 1 qt of internal volume (standard can, Monster is nearly 2 quarts) so the velocity, or speed of the flow can slow enough for even the smallest of droplets to fall out of suspension:




Follow the pictures below of a disected RX can. The vapors first enter the top center and travel down the dispersion tube that distributes the vapors evenly into the large coalescing chamber where 90% plus of the oil is separated from the vapors and can drop into the collection and condensing chamber. This uses the temprature differential to condense any oil still suspended into large enough drops that then collect on the outer cooling surface and drop to the bottom for collection. Then the vapors have to travel past a disc baffel into the separate outlet chamber where they have one final cooling step to allow any trace oil to condense befor exiting through a flow controlling checkvalve that prevents any back flow at WOT when intake vacuum is at its lowest level and also prevents the vapors from flowing through to fast.
The oil laden vapors at no time mix with crankcase vapors already cleaned as they exit. Every other design has points where the dirty, and cleaned vapors mingle so there is no way to separate 100% of the oil as some of the entering vapors are always mixing with the exiting vapors.





Now the Saikou Micchi is also a very effective functioning can but I dont have time to post all out there, but anyone that has visited in person has seen the examples of both.

All we source, do a several hundred mile drive with a clear glass inline checkvalve installed between the can and the intake manifold vacuum barb and over this same drive route, with the same car (we know its consumption), and then judge the amount that pulled through and was caught in the clear glass filter. With the average empty/ebay/china can the filter is saturated in 50-100 miles beyound capacity showing 50-80% plus of the oil travels right through into the intake air charge.

The poor designed nice looking ones work a bit better, but still pull through 30% plus where the ones we endorse allow less than 10% pull through to under 5% which is excellent in eliminating most of the issues caused by oil ingestion into the intake air charge.

And more specific question, ask & I'll do my best to answer each accurately.

Top pics? Mike Norris, Elite, AMW, Saikou Micchi and RX. There are a few other we have seen advertised that look like they will also be excellent in function, but we have yet to purchase, test, and dissect.
SC2150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2013, 04:48 PM   #16
Ron_Robinson1

 
Ron_Robinson1's Avatar
 
Drives: A Static line to a pack tray & ZL1
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Centeral NY
Posts: 1,375
Send a message via AIM to Ron_Robinson1
Quote:
Originally Posted by calbert1999 View Post
I have the Moroso can, work great and the quality is amazing. If you have a skilled mechanic he'll get it to work just right.

This is what I found in mine the 2nd. time I drained it after 2.5k/kms.

Can't speak for the RX, I'm sure it's a decent product but for me Moroso all the way.


If you need a skilled mechanic to make your catch can work "just right" that's an issue. I'm not a mechanic, and I have installed 2 Rx catch cans that work "just right". A stage 1 and a stage 2 with my blower. Don't know about Moroso, but the customer server from Tracey is top notch through email, he walked me through my install issue with my lysholm blower.

RX FTW
__________________
Drives: To be continued

Last edited by Ron_Robinson1; 04-04-2013 at 05:53 PM.
Ron_Robinson1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2013, 06:57 PM   #17
EZStreet
 
Drives: 2013 Hemi Ram Laramie Quad Cab
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oakville, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4
Hi Tracy,

"Since the lower collection chamber is so small you could not go to far before it will cause the caught oil to splash and cause more info".????

Sorry, it looks like you were going to say something here....

How much additional depth would be required for this fat little can to work IYO

Why isn't the RX can made with the ability to open it for cleaning???

Thanks,

EZ
EZStreet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2013, 07:32 PM   #18
SC2150
Account Suspended
 
Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 6,077
If you look and measure the bottom chamber it is only a few inches deep, so if you extend a divider down the center even an inch or so, when the can fills to close to the divider, the flow through will "whip" oil froth into mist again and it will be drawn through. Removing the filter media from the chamber used on the outlet will help it function better, but at best in the pull through testing it only catches app 50-60% of the oil (they have a nice marketing video with a bottom milled from clear acrylic to show it cathing oil....pretty impressive, but it does not show how much is pulling through.




Cans should never need cleaning the life of the engine, but it is easy enough to spray some brake clean in, shake for a few minutes and drain if desired. It would cost us app $20-25 more to produce a version that comes apart. We have one to demonstrate and show visitors, but we provide the most functional oil seaparting can on the market currently at a competitive price.....not sure if most would pay the extra to be able to take it apart:






SC2150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2013, 08:00 PM   #19
The 2010 Sin
CorkTulsa.com
 
The 2010 Sin's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 2SS BLK, 2013 2SS CRT
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,847
Tracy I'll get you pics asap. Yes I hope its something easy. I dont hear the check valve clicking on the breather like some people say they do but I'll show you pics and you give me insight! :-)
__________________
The 2010 Sin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2013, 08:11 PM   #20
The 2010 Sin
CorkTulsa.com
 
The 2010 Sin's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 2SS BLK, 2013 2SS CRT
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,847
Name:  20130404_190238.jpg
Views: 826
Size:  174.3 KB

Name:  20130404_190259.jpg
Views: 852
Size:  170.5 KB
__________________
The 2010 Sin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2013, 12:29 PM   #21
SC2150
Account Suspended
 
Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 6,077
Your lines are all correct, but we need to go step by step to test all now.

Pull the line off of the valley cover barb, then start the car and let idle. There should be a strong vacuum pull on your finger if you put your finger on the hose end, If so, then shut engine off, connect any hose to the valley cover and blow through....should blow easy and unrestricted. That will eliminate a plugged valley orfice.

Then reinstall as you had it.

Next is to at idle, feel the drain hose. There should be NO suction on that line as it is for drain only.

If there is, the drain is either open or is faulty.

If there is no suction, then with car off, remove the drain from the bottom of the can with a 9/16" wrench just incase the valve is not opening. If that is the case oil will flow out.

Take each step at a time and let me know the results.

Oldest daughter is getting married tommorrow, so I am out until Monday.

SC2150 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2013, 03:51 PM   #22
The 2010 Sin
CorkTulsa.com
 
The 2010 Sin's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 2SS BLK, 2013 2SS CRT
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,847
Tracy, got the fix.. my valve in the bottom of the can is faulty
Opened her up with a 9/16 and I had a gusher... this thing had to been over full
__________________
The 2010 Sin is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.