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Old 08-19-2013, 08:57 PM   #1
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lsa supercharger removal and port thread

ok, this thread is going to show how to do a complete removal of the supercharger. Most of you guys will never go farther than a snout removal for a pulley or to just fix the rattling some cant stand from the isolator and this will show you how to do that as well as pull entire unit for either bearing regreasing or full port.


the project car is a CTS-V but other than the actual lid and the routing of a few hoses (that all end up in the same place) is exactly the same as your zl1.

first picture will show you how much easier the cts v lid is to remove than your zl1 lid.. the rear 6 bolts on the lid are EXTREMLY hard to get to.. all I can tell you is take your time, get a 1/4 inch drive socket and at least 1 swivel and a couple short extensions and go to town...this is by far the hardest thing you will do during this job.



you can see the primary diff between the lids is the cts-v has its water entry for the intercooler brick in the back of the lid..



here are the two lids side by side... the cts-v lid on the right and the zl1 lid on the left. this is my zl1 lid and has been cleaned up a bit.. the cts-v lid is brown from having a stock evap system and sucking oil into the blower for the majority of its life..

as you can see they are the same bolt pattern but the bricks bolt up differently and no the cts-v brick will not interchange.



the rear tabs that hang off the back on the lids (the top of this pic) are the bolt holes that require a special kind of patience to get the bolts out of... now there is another way but its not for the squeamish... my zl1 was bought under the notion of being a race car.. and I knew the blower would be coming off on a reg basis... so it has had its windshield wiper cowl removed and holes drilled in the overhang under it so as for me to get to those holes without a thought.....if you saw my car you would never know this because the plastic cowl covers it up....

t
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:02 PM   #2
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now the next step I going to show is not needed UNLESS you plan on removing the entire blower...


if your only going to remove the snout this part is not needed..

this is how you remove the fuel line.

the proper tool is required... any autozone type store carries this..




here is a short vid that shows how its done.

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Old 08-19-2013, 09:20 PM   #3
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now the next step is to remove the actual intake bolts out so you can remove the snout.


the intake bolts that hold the lower part of the blower to the intake are 8 mm.. there are 10 of them and they ALL need to be loosened to get the snout off as the front of the intake actually has to be lifted to get the snout bolts out and to get the snout to slide out and off.


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Old 08-19-2013, 09:25 PM   #4
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now the next step is to physically remove the snout bolts..

they are 10 mm bolts and CAN be removed with the tb on but is easier to remove with the tb off

there is a sensor directly behind the tb that a needs the bolt removed from to get a extension through to get the socket on the bolt.

here is a pic of that sensor.. it is a 10mm bolt..




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Old 08-19-2013, 09:30 PM   #5
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here is a vid that shows were the inlet bolts are


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Old 08-19-2013, 09:35 PM   #6
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now once the snout bolts are removed, you can remove the few lines from the bottom of the snout.. this vid shows how to get the snout loose from the blower which can be a pain but it will come off with a little help.


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Old 08-19-2013, 09:37 PM   #7
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snout removal

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Old 08-19-2013, 09:40 PM   #8
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so far this is as far as iv gotten on this car guys.. I will be removing the blower this evening after I put the kids to bed and will take some vids of actual rotor removal and the special little tool I made for that and show you guys where the bearings are and even how to repair the dreaded bearing squeal if it were to happen to a car that was not under warranty...

I hope this has been helpful guys.. this is the first time I have ever done anything like this... so please, I know im no james cameran...

if you have any question feel free to throw them at me now.. I will prob load some more pics and vids up in 4-5 hours..
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:46 PM   #9
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You're doing great, and I think I can safely speak for everyone when I say thanks. Keep up the good work. Subscribed and grateful for the shared knowledge.
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:50 AM   #10
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Great work here Baron, I was on last night and was going to post but realized you were still updating so I decided to wait. Wondering if you considering putting on a supercharger spacer: http://d3groupinc.com/d3-supercharger-lid-spacer/
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:12 AM   #11
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SWEET thread! Great info' here. These would be things I'd be thinking about.
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:14 AM   #12
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Great thread. One day I will replace my coupler.
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:50 PM   #13
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Im finishing the job today. Yes a supercharger spacer is in the works but not a heat transfering aluminum one. I am working on a phenolic version to keep heat out of the lid.

More vids and pics coming tonight finishing up the job.
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:24 PM   #14
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Thanks! it's very interesting.
after you pulled out the snout looks like it had a gasket in back all glued up i presume some parts were off and some still on.. tuff to clean and install one new without, it, to not to fall when installing the snout back on..
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:13 AM   #15
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there is no gasket, its silicone.
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:40 AM   #16
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ok on with the process...

next thing needed to do is to remove the blower base from the engine.

the only thing that is still holding it down is the injector harness and the two bolts that hold the coil and injector wiring in place. I will show you the steps best I can.



^^ this is the injector. the green part of the clip is a safety clip. you pull?pry up on it and then squeeze the injector clip and it releases

here is a pic of it removed. the thing in the background is the bracket that is attached to the back of the blower with a 10mm bolt that holds the wiring harness down.. that's next after you remove the injector clips.

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Old 08-21-2013, 12:55 AM   #17
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the bracket on the back of the blower is the only thing left, then you can lift the blower out of the bay. there is one on each side.

this is another pic.. you cant see the bolt but its easy to feel and get to. the black plug with the blue clip is the plug attached to the bracket that gets moved.





here is a small vid

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Old 08-21-2013, 12:58 AM   #18
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after you do the above things the blower is ready to lift off the car.. it is not light... I can lift it off but if I have another person around to grab one side I use them.

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Old 08-21-2013, 01:09 AM   #19
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the next part is to disassemble the blower itself..

the first thing I do is remove the rotor drive hub (I have no idea what the correct name is) this is the part the couple slides onto..

this is the picture of the tool I made to pull the hub out...it is a simple aluminum disk I drilled the matching holes in and a center hole so I could see down in the blower to get the bolts in.

it is that simple.. I put the bolts through, tighten each one a few turned and it pulls the hub out off the rotor shaft.



when your done this is what you end up with




here is a short vid that shows whats next..
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:15 AM   #20
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once the rotors have been knocked loose it is as simple as laying the blower down and sliding them out.


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Old 08-21-2013, 01:26 AM   #21
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the next step is the actual porting of the blower itself.. I have a lot of pics already taken and a few vids being uploaded as I type.. I will throw up a few pics tonight and the vids tomorrow afternoon.

this is a pic of the snout from the blower side.. you can see the large raised humps in the pics.. these are what I spend most of my time on because every bit of flow data I have ever see on a positive displacement blower is that the inlet and any restriction in said inlet is way more important and effect hp way more than anywhere else




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Old 08-21-2013, 01:30 AM   #22
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you can see more in this pic.. you can see where I started working out the center bolt hump.
this is a huge chunk. it takes a while.
after that hump is gone the hole is filled and the bolt no longer is used. there is no stress on the inlet and there are still 5 bolts holding it to the supercharger.
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:40 AM   #23
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this is jumping ahead of the vids a touch but here are some more port photos.. the snout almost done.



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Old 08-21-2013, 01:41 AM   #24
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:44 AM   #25
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now im going to go back a bit and talk about the bearings..

this will get talked about in a vid but I cant stress it enough.. the SNOUT MUST BE installed back on the blower properly with a nice clean surface and a small bead of silicone around the drive hub or you can, not every time, but can find yourself with a squeeling bearing later down the road. they are NOT sealed bearings... if they see a vacume signal they will go dry eventually.

a lot of blowers have never had the snout off and been pulled under warranty for the problem... so even eaton screws it up..
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