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Old 05-06-2012, 10:19 PM   #1
darkrider01
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Lightbulb Aftermarket amplifier turn-off pop/click/thump...The Answers

History:
As some of you may know, I have been fighting quite a battle with a pop/click/thump (henceforth referred to as p/c/t) when I turn off my radio. I have a long history of car stereo installation (amateur and professional) and I have an associates degree in electronics engineering. I am currently employed as a commercial electrical designer. I know my way around electricity and have a pretty decent grasp of electronics.

I have had issues with turn-off p/c/t in the past, but it was always a grounding issue, and it was always with aftermarket radios/amps/eq's.

When I installed my amp and sub into my camaro, I googled the Boston Amp wiring diagram which eventually lead me to these forums. I found the wiring diagram and began hacking away at my factory harness. Originally, I had an Alpine 3527S and my Rockford T1000-1BDCP. The Alpine was running mids/highs (all car speakers, including center channel) with the Rockford handling sub duty. It sounded pretty damn good. I was smiling ear to ear, until I turned it off.

When I turned it off, there was a p/c/t. It wasn't super loud - I didn't expect it would destroy speakers or anything, but it was very noticeable. I was mostly worried about it damaging my amps. Now I had just spent over $1000 and it was like a stick that poked me every time I turned off my car. Being proud of my car and my high-end (to me anyway) equipment, I was embarrassed by the p/c/t.

I started a little troubleshooting - having my wife operate the keys while I watched how the amps and sub reacted when the keys were removed. I noticed that after the keys were removed, the amps stayed on for roughly 2 seconds. When they turned off, there was the p/c/t. So I looked around for something that would change the sequence of operation. I found 2 things I thought might work - the Metra Axxess Trigger and the P.I.E. EIS-PS2 (pop-stopper). Now the Metra Axxess Trigger I'm pretty sure was expensive and mostly unavailable when I first started looking - I'm sure I remember seeing it on ebay for $90+ . So I figured I'd try the P.I.E. EIS-PS2 since it was only $25 and it's a pop-stopper - win, right?! It provided a 2 second turn-off delay. I figured that if the amp stayed on after the signal dropped, it would not pop. Wrong.

So next I tried removing the amp remote as soon as my wife removed the keys. Viola! No pop! Now I was getting frustrated because I figured that no one made anything that would disconnect the remote at that second. I figured that the factory radio was sending a mute to the factory amp through the mute wire and that the amp was disconnecting the inputs when it got the mute signal. I couldn't think of anything that would do that for me, so after living with the p/c/t for several months, I finally had a breakdown and removed all of my aftermarket equipment and returned it to stock. Yes, I threw a hissy-fit.

I was pretty sad. I love my car, but I missed my overkill sub. I started looking for answers on the internet, on these forums, everywhere. I started asking questions, and thought several of the answers had merit and were worth at least trying. $1000 worth of stereo sitting in boxes in my garage annoyed me. I wanted to use it again, so I started trying anything and everything that I thought might work. Then I tried some things that I didn't think would do anything to help. I figured that honestly, if nothing else, what I learn could at least help others that might have the same problem. I was determined to find the answer.

Below, I will detail the causes some said were causing the p/c/t and some things I tried and the solution that is semi-working for me. As a note, none of the solutions are perfect. My opinion is that the only perfect solution is replacing the factory radio, since the p/c/t is all it's fault,
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:20 PM   #2
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Possible Causes

Remote Voltage Too High:I was told several times that the problem was that the remote turn-on voltage was too high. That is incorrect. I have used 12V direct from the battery in past, through a dash mounted switch, to turn amps on and off, with no pop. I have read somewhere that certain Ford factory amplified systems had an issue like this.

Groud Loop: I thought I had pretty good grounding, but figured I would try the ground loop isolator anyway. The consensus is that there is DC riding on the low level outputs coming from the radio. A ground loop isolator would in theory remove the DC from the line. I still don't know what to make of this. See Ground Loop Isolator below.

Line Output Converter A line output converter takes a high level speaker signal and converts it to a low level RCA output that can be used to connect to an amp. Some amps have this already built-in and you can plug high level inputs directly into them. None of my amps have this feature. That could be a reason some people do not have the p/c/t. Some manufacturers have adapters for their amps that basically are just speaker cable wired directly to an RCA. In those cases, the amplifier must be able to accept high and low level inputs via the RCA connections.

Gains Too HighSetting all gains at 0 did not eliminate the p/c/t. It did reduce it to a low level, so gain has an effect on the p/c/t.
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:21 PM   #3
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Possible Solutions

A Little Turn-off Pop is Normal: I didn't accept this answer. I'm not going to call anyone out on this, but dropping thousands on a system to have "a little pop" is unacceptable - for me anyway.

Precision Interface Electronics EIS-PS2: As detailed in history, no effect.

Ground Loop Isolator: I tried 3 different models. One Stinger, one AudioPipe, and generic. It seemed like it made the p/c/t less severe, but did not eliminate it. As a note, my original Alpine 3527S did not need ground Loop Isolators but my Alpine MRV-F357 goes into protect without them (when fed low-level radio output directly). My RF T1000 didn't need it either.

Line Output Converter (LOC): I just knew this would do it. The consensus about the DC and removing it pointed to a LOC being the best bet at getting rid of the DC. I went and bought the best LOC I could find - and AudioControl LC6i. I tried the LC6i in front of and behind the BA amp. It did not remove the p/c/t. I was devastated. There was speculation that it might actually cause a p/c/t itself, so upon direction of Steve @ Subthump, I tried his AudioPipe LOC. Honestly, I didn't think it would work, but I figured I would give Steve a shot. Well, it didn't remove it, but it did reduce it to a very low level (probably because it reduced everything to a very low level).

Resistors Across Low Level Inputs: One person said placing a resistor across the low level inputs should remove the DC, but the p/c/t did not go away. I used a 10 ohm - 10 Watt resistor. The p/c/t was greatly reduced, but not eliminated. I believe the signal volume was also reduced, but I don't 100% recall.

Relay: I had an idea that if I used a single-pole double-throw relay to break the remote going to the amp by using the mute, it would kill the p/c/t. I tested the voltage of the mute and I believe it was around 6V. I went to RadioShack and purchased around $20 in materials (blank board, 5-7V SPDT relay, new soldering iron, etc). The plan was to use the Radio-Mute to actuate the coil, thereby breaking the remote and turning off the amp as soon as the mute went active. Turns out that the Mute only provided 1.9mA of current, and the mini-SPDT relay required 56mA to operate. I had a good laugh at that. This would have been the simplest solution - of course it wouldn't work.
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Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Pioneer DEX-P99RS * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:22 PM   #4
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The Actual Solutions

Metra Axxess Trigger: A "guy at Metra" sent me a Metra Axxess Trigger to try. When he told me he was going to send it to me, I figured it would probably work because it was the one solution I originally passed on (I didn't know this person worked at Metra until after I PM'd him to ask him if he needed my first born or soul as payment). So, I looked it up online again, and they can be had in the $30-40 range now. In the description of the device, it says "GMLAN Aftermarket Amp Turn-On provides an amp turn on LAN vehicles for adding an aftermarket amp". Truth in advertising. It does just what it says, but there is a caveat. My relay, had it worked, probably would have done the same. When you first turn on the radio, or if you press the mute on your steering wheel controls, it turns off the amp. Therefore, there is a 2-3 second delay when turn on the radio or un-mute the radio. I can deal with it.......for now.

Use Accessory Outlet Power (Cigarette Lighter) As Remote Source: This will work, to an extent. The caveat of using this remote source is that when you turn off your car, your amps turn off as well. Normal operation is that you can open the door of your Camaro and turn on the radio, without the key in the ignition. If you use the cigarette lighter, you have to turn the key on to accessory for your amps to come on.

Replace Factory Radio: Yeah, this should definitely fix it, but I wanted to keep the factory radio and all of it's functions.

Did I miss anything?
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:23 PM   #5
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Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Pioneer DEX-P99RS * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692
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Old 05-07-2012, 06:44 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by darkrider01 View Post
The Actual Solutions


Did I miss anything?
The remote amp control line on the back of the stock HU.
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:38 AM   #7
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The remote amp control line on the back of the stock HU.
Actually, that is how I had it hooked up originally, and it does cause the p/c/t. I guess I didn't state it clearly enough.

The amp control line = amplifier remote = Orange Wire on X3 connector. The amp control line stays on for around 2-3 seconds after the radio is turned off or key is removed.

I was told that some amps do not have this problem, and that's great. But, a lot of us do have this problem.
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:29 AM   #8
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I applaud all the steps you have taken and your great documentation.
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:13 PM   #9
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I wonder if this has something to do with the Boston system... Of all the threads I've come across with people talking about this problem, it seems they all have the Boston system... I was pretty concerned with this issue when I went to install my system, but I do not have the BA option in my car.

I used a PAC SOEM-T LOC and tapped into the rear speakers to get the signal. I chose the SOEM-T because also provides the signal to the remote wire, as I didn't want to try to run a wire to somewhere else in the car with keyed power to try and get the remote signal to the amp. IIRC the SOEM-t can detect as little at .5v through the speaker wires and provide the remote signal to the amp... Although it seems like a good idea, it also seems that there is always at least that running through the speaker wires even when the radio is off... So even with I turn off the radio, my amp is still powered on. Is this a big deal? I don't think so, but I don't personally know if it will damage something eventually.

Long story short, I do not have the BA system, and the p/c/t I was so concerned about going into this installation is not present, so I am happy. Like I mentioned, the only thing wrong with this set up is that the amp is always powered on with the ignition is on, even with the radio off... But with the ignition off, the amp is off, until the radio is turned on and then it powers up... No big deal... I think?

My system install thread is here: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191938
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:58 PM   #10
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So in a nut shell

Buy the Metra Axxess Trigger.. install it. get power from the cig light in the center console. and problem solved??
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Old 05-07-2012, 06:21 PM   #11
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So in a nut shell

Buy the Metra Axxess Trigger.. install it. get power from the cig light in the center console. and problem solved??
I'm sure I sound a bit like a broken horse here, but I put my DMM up to pin 43 (the wire circled in blue below) and it will save you the trouble and money of using the trigger. It's free to try and certainly just as easy as opening up the center console.

It has a delayed turn off already. When the radio is powered down, the line holds voltage on it for a few seconds and then slowly bleeds down to 0v over the course of another 5 or so seconds. If you use that line, you will not hear a pop.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguy_1980 View Post
I made a mistake, which may have actually been a good thing. I cut the wrong blue wire. I wound up cutting the wire that is annotated in blue in the documents below. I really meant to cut the wire annotated in yellow. All of my testing was with the blue wire, which seems to work as I would have hoped. Though, the real test will be tomorrow when I install my amp.




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Old 05-07-2012, 06:53 PM   #12
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Everyone needs to keep in mind that this is totally dependent on the amp being installed. Different amps use different internal power supplies and there is no simple formula to know in advance. Just because one amp does it, doesn't necessarily mean the next one will. I know all the JL amps we have tried, they don't seem to need anything because they just plain don't do it. The kicker amps we have tried, do it slightly but the ground loop isolator on the input signal takes care of it completely.

With that said, there will still be times when certain amps need a ground loop isolator or a line converter just to make them work. This is because of the way they are built. A small percentage of amps will go into protect mode without these devices regardless of the trigger mechanism. This is why we recommend the ground loops because it solves that problem for many amps, and also minimizes the thump in a lot of other amps.

There are just to many different amps guys are using to say one solution is universal. The axxess trigger may work fine for a subwoofer amp installation, but keep in mind that if you replace the boston amp and try to use the axxess trigger on a multi-channel amp, there will be a rather lengthy delay in how quickly it powers up to play the chimes. What I mean is: The boston amp actually powers up really fast in order to play the chime sounds thru your speaker when you open the door. Aftermarket amps typically turn on a little bit slower--so you actually miss the first and second chime. Add 2-3 seconds of delay on top of that and you will already be seated in the car before the amp powers up and starts playing the chime sounds. Or worse, you might not even hear the chime becuase you'd have the door closed already. Either way, this may or may not be an acceptible solution because of the possible side effects.

My recommendation would be to see how your amp responds first and go from there. I still think the ground loop is good insurance if you don't know if your amp can handle the dc. But now that we have some other documented solutions, guys will know what to do in the event they have a persistent p/c/t. I actually have a metra account, I will call my rep and see what the pricing would be should anyone need one.
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguy_1980 View Post
I'm sure I sound a bit like a broken horse here, but I put my DMM up to pin 43 (the wire circled in blue below) and it will save you the trouble and money of using the trigger. It's free to try and certainly just as easy as opening up the center console.

It has a delayed turn off already. When the radio is powered down, the line holds voltage on it for a few seconds and then slowly bleeds down to 0v over the course of another 5 or so seconds. If you use that line, you will not hear a pop.
The wire you are referring to is the one I started with. The delayed turn-off part is the problem. The Orange wire is the Amp Mute signal wire.
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Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Pioneer DEX-P99RS * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:12 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Steve@Subthump View Post
Everyone needs to keep in mind that this is totally dependent on the amp being installed. Different amps use different internal power supplies and there is no simple formula to know in advance. Just because one amp does it, doesn't necessarily mean the next one will. I know all the JL amps we have tried, they don't seem to need anything because they just plain don't do it. The kicker amps we have tried, do it slightly but the ground loop isolator on the input signal takes care of it completely.

With that said, there will still be times when certain amps need a ground loop isolator or a line converter just to make them work. This is because of the way they are built. A small percentage of amps will go into protect mode without these devices regardless of the trigger mechanism. This is why we recommend the ground loops because it solves that problem for many amps, and also minimizes the thump in a lot of other amps.

There are just to many different amps guys are using to say one solution is universal. The axxess trigger may work fine for a subwoofer amp installation, but keep in mind that if you replace the boston amp and try to use the axxess trigger on a multi-channel amp, there will be a rather lengthy delay in how quickly it powers up to play the chimes. What I mean is: The boston amp actually powers up really fast in order to play the chime sounds thru your speaker when you open the door. Aftermarket amps typically turn on a little bit slower--so you actually miss the first and second chime. Add 2-3 seconds of delay on top of that and you will already be seated in the car before the amp powers up and starts playing the chime sounds. Or worse, you might not even hear the chime becuase you'd have the door closed already. Either way, this may or may not be an acceptible solution because of the possible side effects.

My recommendation would be to see how your amp responds first and go from there. I still think the ground loop is good insurance if you don't know if your amp can handle the dc. But now that we have some other documented solutions, guys will know what to do in the event they have a persistent p/c/t. I actually have a metra account, I will call my rep and see what the pricing would be should anyone need one.
Everything Steve has said here is 100% accurate and goes well in line with everything I have learned. My document was meant more of as "if you have p/c/t, here are some work-arounds". I did note in my document that the Trigger gives a 2-3 second delay on amp turn-on, but for me, it is so much better than that p/c/t.

Also, thanks again for working with me on this Steve.
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Power Mods * K&N Typhoon CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust, Hurst Short Throw Shifter Visual Mods * Black Phantom Grille Suspension Mods * BC Racing Coilovers * Lakewood Strut Tower Brace
Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Pioneer DEX-P99RS * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:39 AM   #15
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Just wondering.. what chimes are we speaking of?? I mean if we open the door what chime could we possibly be needing? I can't think of any chime I need to hear until my ass is in the seat and the car is running and I am about to move..

I have installed a Low volt trigger and that did not solve my problem. so I will be trying your GLI but it is great to have other paths to try if that does not work.

Thanks guys for the info.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:01 AM   #16
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So in a nut shell

Buy the Metra Axxess Trigger.. install it. get power from the cig light in the center console. and problem solved??
I wouldn't suggest getting power from the cigarette lighter. Your amps won't turn on unless the ignition is on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soundplus View Post
Just wondering.. what chimes are we speaking of?? I mean if we open the door what chime could we possibly be needing? I can't think of any chime I need to hear until my ass is in the seat and the car is running and I am about to move..

I have installed a Low volt trigger and that did not solve my problem. so I will be trying your GLI but it is great to have other paths to try if that does not work.

Thanks guys for the info.
What problem are you experiencing? Do you have p/c/t or are your amps going into protect? Or is it something else entirely?
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Power Mods * K&N Typhoon CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust, Hurst Short Throw Shifter Visual Mods * Black Phantom Grille Suspension Mods * BC Racing Coilovers * Lakewood Strut Tower Brace
Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Pioneer DEX-P99RS * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:57 AM   #17
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Just wondering.. what chimes are we speaking of?? I mean if we open the door what chime could we possibly be needing? I can't think of any chime I need to hear until my ass is in the seat and the car is running and I am about to move..

Thanks guys for the info.

If your key is in the ignition and you open the door, your will get a chime sound. I would imagine if you leave your lights turned to 'on' and exit the car, you would get a chime as well. So there are instances when the chimes are helpful.
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Old 05-08-2012, 12:24 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by darkrider01 View Post
The Actual Solutions

Metra Axxess Trigger: A "guy at Metra" sent me a Metra Axxess Trigger to try. When he told me he was going to send it to me, I figured it would probably work because it was the one solution I originally passed on (I didn't know this person worked at Metra until after I PM'd him to ask him if he needed my first born or soul as payment). So, I looked it up online again, and they can be had in the $30-40 range now. In the description of the device, it says "GMLAN Aftermarket Amp Turn-On provides an amp turn on LAN vehicles for adding an aftermarket amp". Truth in advertising. It does just what it says, but there is a caveat. My relay, had it worked, probably would have done the same. When you first turn on the radio, or if you press the mute on your steering wheel controls, it turns off the amp. Therefore, there is a 2-3 second delay when turn on the radio or un-mute the radio. I can deal with it.......for now.
Let me make sure I got this right... If you are using the Metra Axxess Trigger and you hit the mute button on the steering wheel the amp turns off. That means if you hit mute and flip on your turn signals you won't be able to hear them? What if you are on mute and get a call over bluetooth, will you be able to hear the phone ring over the speakers? Or do these events un-mute the line?
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:08 PM   #19
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Possible Solutions

Ground Loop Isolator: I tried 3 different models. One Stinger, one AudioPipe, and generic. It seemed like it made the p/c/t less severe, but did not eliminate it. As a note, my original Alpine 3527S did not need ground Loop Isolators but my Alpine MRV-F357 goes into protect without them (when fed low-level radio output directly). My RF T1000 didn't need it either.
Did you find you needed to adjust your gains to be more sensitive after you added a Ground Loop Isolation? Did you add a GLI to both pairs of inputs if you are running your setup with 4 RCA inputs (FR, FL, RR, RL)?
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:46 PM   #20
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I have an ORIGINAL SoundStream Continuum Amp. 1 of the 800 polished aluminum ones that were sold in the US. I to am getting the turn off crackle, pop, and thump at the 2 second mark after I turn the car off. I used a PAC model TR-4 low volt trigger .. (I was told how to hook this up by a stereo shop.) to which I connected the trigger wire into the factory harness coming from the radio. it worked great for the turn on side of things. but I was not having a problem with turn on thump. I still had the issue at turn off.

After reading your posts.( Steve and Darkrider,, and a few others) I have come to realize it is the delayed signal that is causing this

I will be open to trying any and all of your suggested methods if it will fix the problem..

and about the chimes.. sorry I was under the impression you were talking about chimes when you got into the car.. So yeah.. if you are getting out of the car .. yes I would want to know I left my lights on or I left my keys in the ignition..
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:27 PM   #21
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Let me make sure I got this right... If you are using the Metra Axxess Trigger and you hit the mute button on the steering wheel the amp turns off. That means if you hit mute and flip on your turn signals you won't be able to hear them? What if you are on mute and get a call over bluetooth, will you be able to hear the phone ring over the speakers? Or do these events un-mute the line?
When using the Axxess Trigger - Basically, anything that uses the car speakers (chime, cell phone, etc) will have a 2-3 second turn-on delay if the radio was muted. Anything that causes a sound should break the mute and turn the amp back on. So you would still hear the phone ring, you just might miss the first ring if the radio was muted. Honestly, I will dig into this more - hopefully tomorrow after I get off work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent WD-40 View Post
Did you find you needed to adjust your gains to be more sensitive after you added a Ground Loop Isolation? Did you add a GLI to both pairs of inputs if you are running your setup with 4 RCA inputs (FR, FL, RR, RL)?
When I had the GLI's in place, I did need to adjust the gains slightly as the GLI's did knock the signal down. It didn't take much to get them back to what I consider normal. I basically judged the gain level needed by the chime volume.

I have the AudioControl LC6i in between my Head Unit and my Alpine right now so I have it's output levels adjusted to roughly 90%. It's a LOC, so they're not quite the same as gains, but similar. The gains on my amp are at 0% because I don't want to pop the factory BA speakers while waiting on my RF set to get here.

The best bet when adjusting gains is to put the keys in the ignition (with door open) and then adjust them to the maximum level you can stand your chime. Amp gain has a HUGE impact on chime volume. High gain = loud chime.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soundplus View Post
I have an ORIGINAL SoundStream Continuum Amp. 1 of the 800 polished aluminum ones that were sold in the US. I to am getting the turn off crackle, pop, and thump at the 2 second mark after I turn the car off. I used a PAC model TR-4 low volt trigger .. (I was told how to hook this up by a stereo shop.) to which I connected the trigger wire into the factory harness coming from the radio. it worked great for the turn on side of things. but I was not having a problem with turn on thump. I still had the issue at turn off.

After reading your posts.( Steve and Darkrider,, and a few others) I have come to realize it is the delayed signal that is causing this

I will be open to trying any and all of your suggested methods if it will fix the problem..

and about the chimes.. sorry I was under the impression you were talking about chimes when you got into the car.. So yeah.. if you are getting out of the car .. yes I would want to know I left my lights on or I left my keys in the ignition..
Man, I bet that TR-4 would have worked perfectly with my relay.....

When using the Axxess Trigger, you will still have your chimes, they will just have a slight delay. I'm old and fat, so it takes me more than 3 seconds to get my big butt out of the car - especially when getting my 3 year old out of the back.. Honestly, when I say 2-3 seconds, I may be exaggerating a bit, but different amps take different amounts of time to turn on and produce audio.

I'll tell ya what: You send me that SoundStream Continuum and your PAC TR-4 and I'll send you my Alpine MRV-F357 and Axxess Trigger

I was very close to going all SoundStream when I started planning my system - would have saved me some cash for sure. SoundStream made some awesome stuff back in the day (they still make some good stuff now, too). My first 15's were SoundStream SPL-15's. They were brutal.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:00 PM   #22
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me.. send you my Continuum.. are you smokin dope)) I had this thing pushing 2 reference 10s , and I was gettinng 2 1/4 inches of woofer movement peak to valley. a pair of 5-11s and (4) 4.0s in an 89 Camaro.. OMFG did it ROCK.. and you are correct the old SS stuff kicked ass. the new stuff.. it is just ok..

yeah I have been beating my head against the door frame trying to figure this out. glad I have people like you for more ideas..
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:19 PM   #23
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me.. send you my Continuum.. are you smokin dope)) I had this thing pushing 2 reference 10s , and I was gettinng 2 1/4 inches of woofer movement peak to valley. a pair of 5-11s and (4) 4.0s in an 89 Camaro.. OMFG did it ROCK.. and you are correct the old SS stuff kicked ass. the new stuff.. it is just ok..

yeah I have been beating my head against the door frame trying to figure this out. glad I have people like you for more ideas..
I knew it was a long shot.....

I think you should give the Metra Axxess Trigger a chance. I can help you with the wiring of it if you need. You have to connect 5 wires - it's something like 2 grounds, a +12V constant, the white remote, and the orange amp control.

I'll help out any way I can.
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:23 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by darkrider01 View Post
When using the Axxess Trigger - Basically, anything that uses the car speakers (chime, cell phone, etc) will have a 2-3 second turn-on delay if the radio was muted. Anything that causes a sound should break the mute and turn the amp back on. So you would still hear the phone ring, you just might miss the first ring if the radio was muted. Honestly, I will dig into this more - hopefully tomorrow after I get off work.
Yeah, let me know what you find. I may end up getting the Axxess Trigger but I want to understand fully how it works. A delay may annoy me more than having the p/c/t when I turn the car off.

Another question related to this: If you have the radio off and use the turn signal is there a delay before you hear it or does it leave the amp on so you can hear the turn signal right away?
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:49 AM   #25
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Yeah, let me know what you find. I may end up getting the Axxess Trigger but I want to understand fully how it works. A delay may annoy me more than having the p/c/t when I turn the car off.

Another question related to this: If you have the radio off and use the turn signal is there a delay before you hear it or does it leave the amp on so you can hear the turn signal right away?
Sorry I didn't get to do this yesterday. I'll tray and check it out today when I get home from work. Weather and work have been rough the past few days.
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