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Old 05-16-2012, 09:24 PM   #18
Ieatfordsforlunch
 
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Before I forget always push the wire into the weld never away. Meaning if you are starting a weld going clockwise your gun will be pointing into the weld from the 3 o'clock direction. If that makes cense to you lol.
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:53 PM   #19
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That's why you gotta practice lol. The tacks will overlap and give the look of a continuous bead and if will also be gap less if done correctly. Take your time find the proper heat setting for the pipe your using and get busy. Once you feel confident in your wields move on to the car and get that exhaust done. Remember if you practice with a weaker steel then try stainless it's not going to weld the same same thing with different thicknesses. You may need to adjust after the first few tacks. Too cold of a weld and they will break too hot and you'll blow out the metal. Same thing with wire speed to much wire will cause popping too little will cause feeder jams and dirty wields. One more thing make sure all the tubing is clean of contaminants and burrs from cutting. Nothing messes up a good weld like oils, water, and rust. If you run into excess splatter you can get a spray or gel that you spray into your nozzle to stop that. Umm anything else just pm me, I'm sure I'll end up thinking of more tips if you need em.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ieatfordsforlunch
Before I forget always push the wire into the weld never away. Meaning if you are starting a weld going clockwise your gun will be pointing into the weld from the 3 o'clock direction. If that makes cense to you lol.
This is exactly why I started this thread. I had always read that you should push your puddle, but I didn't realize that meant angling your wire into it as well. That is gonna be a really helpful hint!

I'm pretty cautious about jumping right to the stock metal to 304 welding. I would guess that the pipe gauge is the same, but in reality, I really don't know that right now. I am definitely going to order some 304 and 409 tubing to hack up if I can't find any at a local shop. I already ordered the 309L filler.

BTW. I've decided to give up on the plasma cutter for chopping the pipes. Even though it's a cool new toy, I think I'll take the advice of everyone so far, and cut it with a sawsall. Kinda stupid to ask for advice, then not take it
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:08 AM   #20
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Yeah I was going to say the plasma is a great machine but it wouldn't be the best for pipe you will have thebest cut from a saw. But if you get into doing diff things with metal then the plasma will be perfect. When do you plan on doing this job? Because I'll be driving tomy new base in Kentucky at the end of June if you need any help I don't mind taking a weekend and going that way.
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ieatfordsforlunch View Post
Yeah I was going to say the plasma is a great machine but it wouldn't be the best for pipe you will have thebest cut from a saw. But if you get into doing diff things with metal then the plasma will be perfect. When do you plan on doing this job? Because I'll be driving tomy new base in Kentucky at the end of June if you need any help I don't mind taking a weekend and going that way.
That is incredibly generous of you. I HOPE i'm done by then, but you never know! Learning curves can be pretty unpredictable!
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:21 PM   #22
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No problem bro plus it gives me an excuse to drive the car lol
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Old 05-19-2012, 01:31 PM   #23
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I did some mockup today. And took a couple pics.

After jacking everything up (I skipped the front end for now), I've decided that the more I can get accomplished with the catback off of the car... the better.

How does this sound for a course of action?

1) Remove full stock catback
2) Mock in replacement parts and make my cuts
3) Re-install catback with new parts (remember the OEM piping will slide into the Magnaflow x pipe about an inch or more on both sides)
4) Align everything. Put the pipes in the hangers. Tighten everything down.
5) Tack weld the muffler delete piping first.
6) Make any last minute adjustments by using up the slop in the overlapping x pipe.
7) Tack all 4 joints on the x pipe
8) Pull the whole catback out again and finish the welding.
9) Install and enjoy.

I would do the cuts under the car, but I don't like the space I have to work with under there. I think I'd rather pull the catback twice than fight the sawsall with 18" under a car to work with.

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Old 05-19-2012, 02:03 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thahemp View Post
I did some mockup today. And took a couple pics.

After jacking everything up (I skipped the front end for now), I've decided that the more I can get accomplished with the catback off of the car... the better.

How does this sound for a course of action?

1) Remove full stock catback
2) Mock in replacement parts and make my cuts
3) Re-install catback with new parts (remember the OEM piping will slide into the Magnaflow x pipe about an inch or more on both sides)
4) Align everything. Put the pipes in the hangers. Tighten everything down.
5) Tack weld the muffler delete piping first.
6) Make any last minute adjustments by using up the slop in the overlapping x pipe.
7) Tack all 4 joints on the x pipe
8) Pull the whole catback out again and finish the welding.
9) Install and enjoy.

I would do the cuts under the car, but I don't like the space I have to work with under there. I think I'd rather pull the catback twice than fight the sawsall with 18" under a car to work with.

Attachment 373407

Attachment 373408
Bro I'm enjoying this thread

My opinion, with proper stands I think it would be 10000xs easier off the car then on. I think you got it figured out, can't wait
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Old 05-19-2012, 02:12 PM   #25
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Thanks for the vote of confidence!

I'm starting to feel pretty sure of myself here. I don't care if it takes all day pulling the catback repeatedly and putting it back on. I'm 99.9% concerned about getting it right the first time. It looks super easy to pull the catback and put it back on, so it appears to be the path of least resistance.

We will all find out!
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Old 05-19-2012, 04:12 PM   #26
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Good to see the install going well
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:04 PM   #27
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Alrighty... great success today!

First off... the welder is in, assembled, and appears to work. It feeds wire anyways. I don't have a bottle or the appropriate apparel just yet, so I opted to just let it be for tonight.

I racked my brain all day trying to figure out the best way to wire myself up some convenient 220 (240 actually). My house is the worst I've ever seen for running wire. While out back pondering the issue over an after-work cold one, I remembered we've always had a weird sub-panel out there that I've never bothered to inspect. I busted out the multimeter and flipped the breaker on, and low and behold... 240!

40A breaker on the sub-panel with about an 8'/8 gauge cabled outdoor outlet box attached (with the wires just nutted off). I just grabbed a welder outlet from Lowes and screwed everything down. Someone must have had a hot tub or something back there at some point.

I need to go back to Lowes tomorrow and finish doing this right. I need to mount the cabled outlet, and outfit it with a proper outdoor cover setup. It's a hazard like it is... hehe. I flipped the breaker back off for the time being.

My first impressions of the welder should be taken with a grain of salt obviously, as I have never owned OR used one before. With that said.. this looks like a pretty badass little buzzbox for $500. Eastwood MIG 175.

The wire was simple to get going. It came with a 4" spool of ER70S-6... which I will happily use up on any metal scraps I can find. Everything seems to be of at least decent quality. Everything feels solid. Beyond that, I'll have to add more about the welder later once I stand a chance of knowing what I'm talking about. Here are some pics of what I pulled out of the (super heavy) box.

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Old 05-22-2012, 09:12 PM   #28
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So just in case I am able to get some advice before I go to the welding supply shop... what kind of gas should I get? I'm not horribly concerned about the cost of the gas. I know I'll need tri-mix at some point for this SS project. Can I weld other things with tri-mix as well?

I'd rather not get 2 bottles if possible... I just don't have the space in the garage.

I have no idea how long I should expect a bottle of welding gas to last. All I have to go by is CO2 for my kegorator, and that actually lasts quite a while... though I'm not sure how they're comparable?

I could google these things for myself, but instead, I'm going to go have another after-work cold one. I'd rather read it from the people I'm already familiar with anyways.
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:44 PM   #29
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So i ended up just getting 75/25 for my first gas purchase. I figured i would go through at least a couple bottles practicing. So mild steel it is for the next little while.

I've probably spent 2 minutes actually welding. I can see there is gonna be a pretty good learning curve to climb. Getting all the odds and ends for this hobby is the most time consuming part as of now. Hopefully tomorrow i can spend more time actually welding.

So far i have melted a shovel, butt welded 2 pieces of angle iron together, and welded that contraption to a flat piece of steel. All 1/8 thickness. I suck balls at welding!

Can't wait to fire it back up again though. Talk about a power tool. Too cool.

Edit

Also got a new zippo, the plasma torch, and my skip shift eliminator in the mail today. Good day.
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:53 PM   #30
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I have added Solo cats to this project. They should be here by next weekend.

I have my 6' lengths of 16 guage 409 and 304 2" tubing on the way as well. I intend on slicing them into pieces and getting used to welding sheet metal. I may just plan on painting the exhaust before I bolt it back up. It cost me about $250 to walk out of the welding shop with a leased 96 cu. ft. bottle of 75/25, including the deposit (which was $150). They tell me I can only get trimix in a larger bottle. I have no use for trimix after this project. I'm thinking 75/25 and a paint job is starting to sound pretty appealing.

Is there any reason not to paint the exhaust? It's ugly 409 for the most part anyways.
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:32 PM   #31
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Buy an auto-darkening helmet before you even start to learn to weld. That's the lesson for the day. I don't have one just yet, but the sun was just bright enough today that i could barely see what i was doing before arc. I improved 1000% in 2 minutes. It's amazing how much easier it is when you can see what you're doing.
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:28 PM   #32
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Well. It's time to show some progress methinks. I'll probably be embarrased someday... Oh well.

This is sliced up 409 steel put back together with 309L filler and 75/25 shielding gas.




This weekend the solo cats go in. Drive for a week. Next weekend the muffler delete happens. Drive for a week. If needed, the x-pipe goes in.
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:13 AM   #33
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your set up is very close to mine. I have a x pipe ( non resi) Solos cats and pype bomb muffler delete. Trust me you will want the magnaflow x pipe in there. The drone was horrible until I added the Solo J pipes. Ill be adding long tubes this weekend and a magnaflow xpipe soon after.
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:16 AM   #34
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your set up is very close to mine. I have a x pipe ( non resi) Solos cats and pype bomb muffler delete. Trust me you will want the magnaflow x pipe in there. The drone was horrible until I added the Solo J pipes. Ill be adding long tubes this weekend and a magnaflow xpipe soon after.
That seems to be the general consensus. Birm highly recommended the x-pipe as well, and also assured me that it pretty much eliminates the drone problem. I make a 5 hour lake trip fairly frequently during the summer. I definitely won't tolerate the drone (nor will my better half).

I hope you enjoy your LT's... That's the route I originally wanted to go, but I couldn't make myself do it. I'm just gonna wait till I put a cam in to get LT's. That's gonna be an interesting install
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