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Old 05-28-2012, 10:05 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerouSS View Post
Troy, there's no need to break it in before installing the switch or Exhaust commander. It isn't used under full throttle, just above 1000 even in crusing around you get the enjoyment of a louder exhaust, if that's your thing. I've found that sometimes I want the extra volume, but other times not. Like Dragoneye said, you may come to appreciate how good the stock system is.
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:39 PM   #16
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Can't believe they put a fuse block in that location. Guess it helps with weight distribution lol. They should of created an access panel for it at least though.
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:25 AM   #17
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Thanks for the compliments, guys!!

I was dying to do this fuse pull after a while.....and once I saw how much of a pain it was to access it....I HAD to do something to make it easier!





I might be kind of a wiener for saying it....but I have absolutely zero intentions of pulling up the carpet, etc on the interior to run a wire for this. I just don't have the stomach for it. And I haven't felt the need to keep switching between "modes", yet...to where it would be much more convenient from the cabin...

It might just be me. In the future - I can definitely see myself installing something that allows me to control the exhaust via the home-link button...but this works very well for now.


On a related note....I didn't notice a HUGE difference in sound...obviously, there's more volume at lower revs...but idle doesn't change, nor does WOT above...~3000 rpms. Opening the valves also allows for a kind of annoying resonance (not drone) when accelerating in the overdrive gears. I've got to say, Camaro team did a tremendous job with this exhaust system, imo.

(Still...it's nice to have that extra volume when playing around. )


Well I put a stereo system in mine and there's no need to pull up the carpet to tuck the wires. They tuck easily.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:14 PM   #18
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Very cool way to get the issue resolved! How do you like the results? I can't claim it for sure, but the DIC indicates what I believe are cooler Coolant temps... because the heat is not retained as much between 1,000 and 3,000 rpms. Kind of a side benefit!

I really like the continued "rumble" between 1k and 3k. It seems to "complete" the enjoyment at cruising speeds! And nuisance drone is non-existent.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:43 PM   #19
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i'm contemplating something of the sort on Eve as well. i've already got a cutout switch in the console, but there's a little trick to keep the high fans on after making some pulls or doing some laps. just jumping a wire in the relays to close the circuit. i've been thinking of making that jumper long enough to have a switch in the middle and mount it somewhere for instant engine bay cooling.
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:36 PM   #20
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FYI, there are remote switches (transmitter/keyfob and receiver) available for about $10... Can be added to the DYI set-up. And probably programmed into the URS.?.? Probably have to be sure to buy one that is compatible.
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Old 07-21-2012, 11:31 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by flyingskibiker View Post
FYI, there are remote switches (transmitter/keyfob and receiver) available for about $10... Can be added to the DYI set-up. And probably programmed into the URS.?.? Probably have to be sure to buy one that is compatible.
Remotes are for your TV.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:41 PM   #22
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:56 PM   #23
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I know it's probably as likely as the Personal Jetpack, but I'd be completely content if the exhaust flap could be wired up to remain open when the car is put into any of the PTM Modes
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Old 09-11-2012, 05:15 PM   #24
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I know it's probably as likely as the Personal Jetpack, but I'd be completely content if the exhaust flap could be wired up to remain open when the car is put into any of the PTM Modes
Hey...if someone could get a reading off the ECM...it would be cake from there, with the proper equipment...but getting that reading...
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:57 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by flyingskibiker View Post
FYI, there are remote switches (transmitter/keyfob and receiver) available for about $10... Can be added to the DYI set-up. And probably programmed into the URS.?.? Probably have to be sure to buy one that is compatible.
Yeah.. mine cost $17 bucks off Amazon and is exactly the same as M2W

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I know it's probably as likely as the Personal Jetpack, but I'd be completely content if the exhaust flap could be wired up to remain open when the car is put into any of the PTM Modes
ADM wires this to a 3 way switch so you can have it stock factory, always open or always closed. But he doesn't sell it as a package because it's mostly all wireing work.
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:30 AM   #26
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Yeah.. mine cost $17 bucks off Amazon and is exactly the same as M2W

ADM wires this to a 3 way switch so you can have it stock factory, always open or always closed. But he doesn't sell it as a package because it's mostly all wireing work.
We can't get our hands on proper male female connectors
To make it plug and play.

There is also something to be said about keeping
things in house our way.

I'm sure we will be copied
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:17 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlee View Post
Yeah.. mine cost $17 bucks off Amazon and is exactly the same as M2W

ADM wires this to a 3 way switch so you can have it stock factory, always open or always closed. But he doesn't sell it as a package because it's mostly all wireing work.
this would be pretty easy to do electrically. I might do it that way eventually. The down side to the remote control relay if you wire to a constant power source there is some current drain and more of it in the on position. If you wire it to a switched power source then it will always be "wild" or flaps open at start up.

if I ever have to have my console out I am just putting a switch it. I did not want a switch in my trunk as the truck monkey would most likely play with it. For some reason I was feeling lazy and did not want to pull stuff up.

I have not traced out the whole circuit but if 12v closes the flaps you just want to tap in at that point with 12v and then maybe throw a diode in so you don't feed voltage back upsteam.
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Old 09-13-2012, 06:09 PM   #28
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this would be pretty easy to do electrically. I might do it that way eventually. The down side to the remote control relay if you wire to a constant power source there is some current drain and more of it in the on position. If you wire it to a switched power source then it will always be "wild" or flaps open at start up.

if I ever have to have my console out I am just putting a switch it. I did not want a switch in my trunk as the truck monkey would most likely play with it. For some reason I was feeling lazy and did not want to pull stuff up.

I have not traced out the whole circuit but if 12v closes the flaps you just want to tap in at that point with 12v and then maybe throw a diode in so you don't feed voltage back upsteam.
Dpdt relay....
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