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Old 06-24-2012, 12:26 AM   #18
FastRaceCars
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I've been playing with my tune and some other settings this weekend. Thanks Aaron for sharing your tune. It gave me a couple new ideas to experiment with. I had to attend a wedding in central PA this weekend, so I've been playing a little on some country roads which I am pretty sure are not "sticky". With Traction Control and Stability Control Off, I still can't really spin a tire going in a straight line from a rolling start unless the road is oily or dirty. The groom of the wedding has an Audi A4 AWD with an aftermarket chip in it, and while following him, it was actually a bit challenging to keep up. Of course, I couldn't always tell when he was gonna to go fast, so my reaction time was putting me at a significant disadvantage.

My tires have about 6700 miles on them from the factory now, and still look like new. The car feels to me like it pulls pretty strong...especially from about 3500 rpm and up, but I still can't help but wonder if I'm down on power and just don't know it. I'd like to have it dyno'd or go to the drag strip, but neither of those are close to where I live, and if I go to the drag strip...I'll be towing my dragster.

I'll keep experimenting with the tune for now, and see if I can make any more headway. If anyone else has a good tune for car with similar mods, I'd love to see it for comparison as I could certainly be doing something wrong. Also, what AFR you guys running during PE? I read a couple different threads and it seems to range from 12.x up to 13:1 for peak power, and factory is like 11.x:1.
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Old 06-24-2012, 12:53 AM   #19
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Makes sence since the LS3 doesnt really come on the powerband until 3500rpm. The engine is a touch lazy below that point and once you get into the meat of the power your already rolling at a good speed.
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Old 06-24-2012, 12:57 AM   #20
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Since you are a drag racer, consider a trip to the track to see what kind of power your car is making.
Then you will know for sure.


I too originally thought the car was a bit weak in the burnout department. Once i hit the track those complaints left. I may not be able to really light them up like days of old. But, i can sure hook and launch unlike the days of old.

My 1973 Firebird Formula 400 could just roast the tires off all day long with a huge cloud of rolling smoke. My 2011 would lay waste to that old bird in the 1320'
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:44 AM   #21
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I've been playing with my tune and some other settings this weekend.
You have HP....
Do you data log your car?
You can monitor your throttle position, RPMs, Timing, Knock, and TQdelivered (and 800 other things)

My car is stock (L99) conservative engine tune......for 91 octane.
at about 4800RPMs my delivered TQ is 380lbs consistenly with no knock retard.

What is yours?
It should be higher than mine if your tune is working.

That will tell you if you are making progress with your tune or not.

For example, if you let the clutch out and go WOT the data log will tell you what kind of power you are making and if the the computer is pulling timing and why.

The TQMgmt in the computer is just that....it manages the delivered torque from the engine....based on the configs in the computer. It can and will slow the car down.....at 1500 rpms or 6800rpms.

I allow a little TQmgmt function in "auto" mode (=healthy chip into 2nd at 30% throttle), but in Tap-shift mode its all OFF.....and it shifts like an F1 car.

I was initally on the fence with the auto and also thought I needed to gear up.
But now after refining the tune on TQMgmt and the transmission, I really like the auto (would not go back) and have no need for higher gears.

Just a thought.....the ZL1s must be massively detuned to not spin those tires off through 3rd gear. I have to get my hands on an auto one of those.
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Old 06-24-2012, 01:39 PM   #22
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Nothing against your tuning ability but I would leave that to the pros. I had Ted Jannetty do all my tuning remotely and it has been simply amazing. From stock, I added Roto-Fab CAI, LT headers, HF cats and Teds tune that worked over the engine and trans tune and made the car a totally different beast.
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Old 06-24-2012, 01:52 PM   #23
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spun mine for the first time yesterday, with all the dials "off" and at about 2.5K rpm in 1st gear.....
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:03 PM   #24
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I roasted my tires almost clean off with my stock LS3 6M no problem. Turn off TC.
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:15 PM   #25
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Should have gotten the V-10
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Old 06-24-2012, 02:20 PM   #26
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Should have gotten the V-10
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Old 06-24-2012, 03:57 PM   #27
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Should have gotten the V-10
I agree, If the sole purpose was to spin the tires, you should've got the V-10.
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Old 06-24-2012, 05:58 PM   #28
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I have pretty much stock except exhaust and CAI... I have the stock run flat Pirelli's and like many others if you take off traction control only and dump the clutch this car will literally roast the tires like the poster who included a picture of his tires. I'm not sure why you can't...
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:17 PM   #29
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I think what they are getting at is rolling out and after the clutch is out stabbing throttle and trying to blow the tires off. My car wont do it on clean asphault nor my buddys SS. If I sidestep the clutch with any rpm yeah, Ill blow the tires off the rims until the cows come home.
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:27 PM   #30
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I have pretty much stock except exhaust and CAI... I have the stock run flat Pirelli's and like many others if you take off traction control only and dump the clutch this car will literally roast the tires like the poster who included a picture of his tires. I'm not sure why you can't...
Well...if I dump the clutch at high enough rpm, I can roast them, but I can roast tires on anything by dumping the clutch. It's way too hard on the drivetrain to do it that way. I'd prefer to be able to spin them from a rolling start just using engine power, at least that's what my goal is. There are lots of members on the forum that claim their cars do this, so I'm just trying to make sure my car isn't underpowered for some unknown reason.
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:45 PM   #31
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Well...if I dump the clutch at high enough rpm, I can roast them, but I can roast tires on anything by dumping the clutch. It's way too hard on the drivetrain to do it that way. I'd prefer to be able to spin them from a rolling start just using engine power, at least that's what my goal is. There are lots of members on the forum that claim their cars do this, so I'm just trying to make sure my car isn't underpowered for some unknown reason.
I knew that's what you meant from the get go which is why I said rear gears
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:10 AM   #32
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Currently, I have a RotoFab CAI, skipshift-eliminator, Magnaflow Axle-Back Competition (aka muffler delete), 160 thermostat, and self-tuned with HPTuners. Car is 2010 Camaro 1SS with 6-speed manual. Even before any of the mods, I always felt like the car was a little weak for 420+ HP, but at the same time, it does seem to get up and go pretty well, so I had assumed it was normal for a 3800lb car.

I'm not an expert tuner, but I did read a bunch on several forums and hptuners website. I did some basic changes like improving PE rate, delay, and AFRs. Experimented with high octane table ignition timing advance. What I discovered is that I can't go much over 20 degrees at WOT above 4000 RPM without "knock retard" pulling a little timing back out. As a drag racer running small block chevy engines, we always run around 38-40 degrees, so 20 degrees on a 11:1 motor seems ridiculously low to me. In fact, even with the factory tune settings, I see the knock retard sometimes kicking in a degree or so. That being said, I had tried adding fuel in those areas to confirm it was false knock. (BTW, I run 93/94 octane and tried adding AMSOIL Octane Boost as well). At this point, I'm pretty convinced it is false knock and the knock sensors are too sensitive. I've also increased the knock decay rate so that when the knock stops, the timing will climb back up a little quicker.

I can't remember at the moment if I disabled the engine torque management completely or not, but this car will barely break traction in 1st gear on dry roads with or without traction control/stability control. Obviously, I can drop the clutch at 3500+ rpm and make it spin, but after reading a bunch on the forum today, it seems I should be able to simply roll into the throttle in 1st gear and spin pretty easily. Even my old 1996 V6 Camaro would almost do that.

I was reading about the "fuse pull" trick today, but since I have HPTuners, I'm not sure if this still applies since I can reflash the computer at will. It does seem to have the rough idle behavior that others mentioned. My fuel economy averages 18MPG, which is mostly 20-50mph driving. On highway, I still only see about 21-22.

Anyone have any thoughts? I tried to read the forum all day, but I'm sure I've missed some valuable threads/posts.
Send me your tune, I'll take a look at it. Also, check out what GM did to the 2012 LS3 Camaro knock control...there are some changes. I've also taken some hints from the LS3 in the C6's for a few spark advance changes, that have all been beneficial in my car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BubbaSS View Post
If you decide to stay N/A, You'll want rear end gears...4.11 or 4.33...This car's gear ratio is too high (3.45 stock) and hinders low end torque terribly.
I wouldn't say it hinders torque terribly...my car still feels ballsy at low RPM, but I agree, I want 4.10/4.11 in my car.

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Originally Posted by Juiced1 View Post
Big 20" rims with sticky tires won't really let you roast the tires from a roll.
When I still had stock tires, I'd have to lift completely to get some weight to transfer forward, then snap the throttle down fast to get it to spin them...and it wouldn't "blow the tires off"...it'd get a little squirrely and hook...these are heavy cars on heavy wheels/tires, and they like to hook. I think a lot of people define blowing the tires off differently than I do...if you're not putting down 4-5 car lengths of black stripes...you're not blowing the tires off.

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Originally Posted by speedmon View Post
Its you tune....hombreito.

I have a "less powerful" L99 tuned and with Traction control on it'll spin the tires in first and second now......its like there's a beast within.
Apples to oranges...you've got a tremendously different first gear...and if your traction control is allowing it to spin through the brakes, it's going to hurt them...it should be closing the throttle and pulling spark to avoid that...in the tune, allow TC to do it's thing...in the drivers seat, turn TC off when you want TC off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad70supreme View Post
With those mods yes rolling down the street and punching the gas should result in some tire spin without a clutch dump, add a cam and first gear is useless on the street!
As I said earlier...mine when it did 425 to the tires...spun a little, but nothing insane...had to kick the clutch for a real burnout...but when doing that, it REALLY burned out.

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Originally Posted by SGOS252382 View Post
It's funny how people want to spin their tires (I get it all the time from stock L99 owners).
Then once they get a little more modded, they'll be buying new wheels and drag radials to control excessive wheel spin on the street.

If your spinning, you aint winning.
I'm pushing 500rwhp, and driving around on Nitto's, and my car will dead hook in first...I love it.
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:27 AM   #33
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Agreed. Blowing the tires off means spinning tilll you have to grab the next gear.
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:45 AM   #34
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I have pretty much stock except exhaust and CAI... I have the stock run flat Pirelli's and like many others if you take off traction control only and dump the clutch this car will literally roast the tires like the poster who included a picture of his tires. I'm not sure why you can't...

really?
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