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Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust

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Old 07-01-2012, 10:46 PM   #51
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I bought a spare kit w/ a spacer in the event of a blow out (front use only) rotation would be required if I were to get a rear flat because the limper is of smaller diameter.
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:03 PM   #52
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I agree those p-zero's are some sticky tires and 20" blades are a little harder to turn over, but everyone else on the forum claims to be able to lay down rubber without dropping the clutch.
I just started a thread about this. I can't spin my tires from a roll in first gear with my '12 SS(manual) without revving and dumping the clutch. The stock tires are sticky. People who claim tire spin(w/o dumping the clutch) on a stock LS3 are probably BS'ing. As far as changing the tune, I'm not sure how that affects things.

I do agree, this car doesn't feel like 420+ HP. I test drove a '13 Stang GT with factory 3.73's, and it felt noticeably faster. It was ugly, though. The Camaro just goes to show how weight can affect performance.
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:09 PM   #53
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if your having to pump that crap into your tires it might be a little to late to give a sh1t...
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:54 PM   #54
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There are times when I can't even get traction in first or second and that's without dumping the clutch, pretty much stock and on dry pavement
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Old 07-02-2012, 12:02 AM   #55
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here's the secret - drop by the gas station with a buck and fill your tires to 42 lbs. that should get you the spin you're looking for.
think about this: if you were to travel back 45 years with a stripped new v6 camaro, you would almost certainly rule your local dragstrip. bonus: Microsoft and Google at open!
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Old 07-02-2012, 01:43 AM   #56
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Must be the Alabama asphault, Ive yet to talk to a local gen5 owner that can spin once the clutch is out.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:26 PM   #57
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Must be the Alabama asphault, Ive yet to talk to a local gen5 owner that can spin once the clutch is out.
Some people think punching it mid corner in first gear with everything turned off counts...it doesn't.
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:42 PM   #58
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yea i was disappointed to when my M6 didnt light em up from a first gear roll, considering i bought this instead of a 2006 vette. this car really doesnt start putting down power untill about 3000RPMs. i have a vararam and a muffler delete feel alot more throttle response but i still cant roast them in first unless i drop the clutch witch i dont like doing...alot. personal opinion is get a supercharger, cam, or headers. good luck with your tune.
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:18 PM   #59
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yea i was disappointed to when my M6 didnt light em up from a first gear roll, considering i bought this instead of a 2006 vette. this car really doesnt start putting down power untill about 3000RPMs. i have a vararam and a muffler delete feel alot more throttle response but i still cant roast them in first unless i drop the clutch witch i dont like doing...alot. personal opinion is get a supercharger, cam, or headers. good luck with your tune.
I'd still take my '12 SS over a 2006 Vette in a heart beat! The LS2 was one of GM's under powered engines, IMO. The LS3 Vette should be able to spin the tires from a first gear ruoll with no problem, mainly being so much lighter!
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Old 07-03-2012, 12:26 AM   #60
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Some people think punching it mid corner in first gear with everything turned off counts...it doesn't.
From a straight line no corners and just traction control off I can break my tires loose without dumping the clutch 1 st- 2nd and at night when it is cooler its even worse
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:38 AM   #61
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VHT comes to Alabama(and other key sites across the nation) for research and development.....lol
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:02 PM   #62
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From a straight line no corners and just traction control off I can break my tires loose without dumping the clutch 1 st- 2nd and at night when it is cooler its even worse
How much air pressure is in your tires? What tires? Stock gears? Engine mods?

My heads/cam/longtubes/FAST 102/Vararam/3" X pipe with no cats car, with stock gears, and stock weight, on Nitto NT555r stock size drag radials WILL NOT spin...everything turned off...without help from the clutch pedal. I haven't driven it with this setup on the stock tires, and I don't plan to...but I do plan to put it on regular street tires when these are through and switch to an 18" drag wheel/tire setup to save some weight.

When it was a bolt on's car, including the same exhaust it has now (Kooks 1.875 with complete 3" duals with an X) and the Vararam, and running mid 12's, trapping mid 1-teens, on the stock Pirelli's, at the 36 PSI that the door jam says to run, it'd sorta squeal a little in first...sometimes would wheel hop...but would just hook in second...shifting it as hard as possible, it'd bark second pretty hard, it'd bark third pretty hard too...but that's not breaking the tires loose. My car has never been an underperformer...when it was stock it made good numbers and ran good times, when it was bolt on's it made really really good numbers and ran great times, and now that it's got a ton done to it, it hasn't been to the dyno yet, but it certainly has been performing everywhere else.
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:07 PM   #63
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I think you're running too lean. I ran my car (when it was bolt-ons) closer to 12.5:1 and it took 24-26 degrees of timing to make the most power at that point...when it was ever so slightly leaner, the knock sensors would yank timing, and torque/power would drop tremendously.
I started from the factory AFR of 11.x:1 and have been working my way up to 12.5:1. The knock sensors have been pulling timing above 4200 RPM regardless of the AFR. My tune right now varies between 12.5:1 to 13:1 depending on the RPM. Up until just recently, I never went leaner than 12.5:1 to be on the safe side because of the knock sensor pulling timing. I had to try to rule out everything else before I finally made up my mind to desensitize the knock sensors. Thanks very much for sharing your info on the AFR and timing. That's almost exactly the numbers I'm trying to get to if I can get these damn knock sensors to quit fighting me.
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:21 PM   #64
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I started from the factory AFR of 11.x:1 and have been working my way up to 12.5:1. The knock sensors have been pulling timing above 4200 RPM regardless of the AFR. My tune right now varies between 12.5:1 to 13:1 depending on the RPM. Up until just recently, I never went leaner than 12.5:1 to be on the safe side because of the knock sensor pulling timing. I had to try to rule out everything else before I finally made up my mind to desensitize the knock sensors. Thanks very much for sharing your info on the AFR and timing. That's almost exactly the numbers I'm trying to get to if I can get these damn knock sensors to quit fighting me.
Don't think you said this in this thread, but you try race gas yet to help at 4k?
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:04 PM   #65
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I started from the factory AFR of 11.x:1 and have been working my way up to 12.5:1. The knock sensors have been pulling timing above 4200 RPM regardless of the AFR. My tune right now varies between 12.5:1 to 13:1 depending on the RPM. Up until just recently, I never went leaner than 12.5:1 to be on the safe side because of the knock sensor pulling timing. I had to try to rule out everything else before I finally made up my mind to desensitize the knock sensors. Thanks very much for sharing your info on the AFR and timing. That's almost exactly the numbers I'm trying to get to if I can get these damn knock sensors to quit fighting me.
I wouldn't bother going as lean as 13:1 anywhere...I tried to shape my PE to match my torque, give it the most fuel at peak torque, and lean it out in the other areas...it made absolutely no difference in measurable output on the dyno (3-4 hp maybe...which can be just from making multiple pulls anyways)...but what it did do, was make it a lot harder to avoid knock retard at full throttle...I went back to the flat PE, and the car hasn't had knock issues since.

I guess it's possible that you've got a bad sensor too? I'd try 2 things...first at the dyno with good fuel in the tank, I'd disable knock retard, make a pull, listen VERY CAREFULLY to the engine, and pay very close attention to the TQ curve...if it's not smooth, or you hear it knock (1 pull won't blow it up...not that I advocate letting it knock, but I really doubt it'd hurt anything)...then there's a problem with the engine...bad spark plug(s), bad injector(s), bad coil(s)...something that's actually causing knock and the sensors are saving you, and you need to track down the issue/problem...at that point, re-enable knock retard and then try to track it down.

If it IS smooth and sounds normal through the pull...order a pair of new knock sensors from GM, install them to the letter from the GM manual...check that their wiring to the PCM is ok (I'm sure it's fine), and see what's going on there.

I did note the changes to the knock sensor calibration in the newest iteration of the LS3 Camaro as compared to my 2010...but I haven't needed to make any changes...they've worked when I ran it too lean, and they do nothing intrusive to me when the AFR and Spark is right.
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:29 PM   #66
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How about posting some videos of the cars that can spin'em while rolling? I'm not questioning that it can't be done, but just want to see it. Only the tire and I know you'll be in your driveway .
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:28 AM   #67
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Im cammed and no spin, these things arent nearly as beastly as people think
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:04 AM   #68
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Im cammed and no spin, these things arent nearly as beastly as people think
If you only drive them once a week, and spend the other 6 nights getting too much tire shine all over the tread...they'll spin.

They're heavy cars, and the suspension plants the tires pretty well...they like to hook.
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Old 07-05-2012, 03:58 PM   #69
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If you only drive them once a week, and spend the other 6 nights getting too much tire shine all over the tread...they'll spin.

They're heavy cars, and the suspension plants the tires pretty well...they like to hook.
MikeOd thats awesome! Yup your right, theses bad boys arent the lightest cars and with sticky meats you usually just dig and go..But I still think a lot of guys on here think they got an SS and there going to destroy the world in it. Great cars but still underpowered imo.
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Old 07-05-2012, 04:03 PM   #70
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MikeOd thats awesome! Yup your right, theses bad boys arent the lightest cars and with sticky meats you usually just dig and go..But I still think a lot of guys on here think they got an SS and there going to destroy the world in it. Great cars but still OVERWEIGHT imo.
Fixed it for ya
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:42 AM   #71
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This video is of a modded GXP and it dont blow the tires off once the clutch is out. It hooks just like my car and mine is stock. These Zeta chassis' works well in the hook department.....
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:39 AM   #72
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One thing not mentioned thus far is have you checked to see if you need to change the MAF sensor. Some 10's came with weak MAF sensors and this can and has caused "problems" like you are describing.
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:07 PM   #73
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One thing not mentioned thus far is have you checked to see if you need to change the MAF sensor. Some 10's came with weak MAF sensors and this can and has caused "problems" like you are describing.
Doh. I meant to check this a few weeks ago when I started the thread and I forgot. Thanks for the reminder. Mine is a K19. As far as I can tell from data logging...the MAF is working fine. I don't think I really saw a good explanation of what happens with a weak MAF in order to know what to look for in my logs.
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:23 PM   #74
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Don't think you said this in this thread, but you try race gas yet to help at 4k?

Unfortunately, I haven't had an opportunity to do this. I run 93 octane and tried adding octane boost, but no improvement. I originally tried richening the AFRs where the knock retard occurs to see if that would help...but it made no difference.
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:53 AM   #75
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OP, I thought when I first got my car, that I was having the same issue. I added a cold air intake, bored throttle body, and new Maf sensor, and with no tune I had the same issue that I started with. So, I took it to one of my local Dynos and it put down 384 RWHP and 384 RWTQ. There is nothing wrong with your car, its just the way it is. Everyone will have different results. Tire pressure, outside temp, asphalt type, asphalt temp, warmed up tires, cold tires, even weight transfer play a role in tires spin. Be happy that you dont have to much wheel spin. Now I must say that while doing a little runway racing, at a 40 MPH roll in second gear my car will go side ways when I drop the hammer, I contribute this to the asphalt type on the runway. Live with what you got for now, once you mod it further you will be praying for the days that you couldnt spin the tires from a roll.
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