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Old 06-22-2012, 04:44 PM   #1
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Whats more popular? Oiled or dry?

Whats more popular in buying a cai. An oil filter or a dry filter?
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:54 PM   #2
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I got a dry so I didn't have to worry about oiling mine.
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:33 PM   #3
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I've got oiled...so I don't have to buy any new filters for awhile......just got done re-oiling it today!
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:34 PM   #4
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dry. knowing me i screw up trying to reoil it
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:35 PM   #5
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Truck= oiled
Car= dry
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:46 PM   #6
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Oiled usually sees more performance (aka airflow) but the downside is the maintenance with cleaning and re-oiling. Dry filters are a bit more restrictive, still giving you better performance than stock, but they of course don't need to be washed, you can just dust out the filter itself.

CFM Increase in the Oiled filter from AFE for example:


The dry will see a bit less than that...
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:48 PM   #7
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dry. knowing me i screw up trying to reoil it
Haha and that is exactly why I didn't go with oiled lol.
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:50 PM   #8
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Are talking about "stock" air filters? I have an Injen long tube CAI, and it come with a re-useable DRY amsoil filter. All I have to do to clean it is take compressed air and blow the dirt off.
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:04 PM   #9
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Here is an article that Bill Hylton from CAI Inc wrote for our blog. It has a lot of good info on this topic.


Choosing a Dry or Oiled Media Filter for Your Vehicle

When choosing an air filter for your vehicle, a very common question is whether a dry media filter (paper filter) or an oiled filter is the best choice. There has been much debate to this subject to determine which filter actually performs better, considering things such as filtration, airflow, longevity and overall performance. Although the debate has been fought from both sides, and both sides may be able to argue pros and cons for each filter type, the filter type that the engineers at Cold Air Inductions Inc. trust and use is the oiled filter.

One of the most common and misunderstood conceptions surrounding oiled filters is that they will cause problems with your MAF sensor. The only time this would ever happen is if when you went to clean and oil your filter (often referred to as recharge) after the recommended time from the manufacturer, you over oiled the filter and/or damaged it and did not let it dry enough. This is no different than if you fill your vehicles engine with too much oil, causing damage to it. As long as the directions are adhered to when using your cleaning kit supplied by the manufacturer, you should have no problems.

When deciding which type of filter would be used with our Cold Air Intakes, many things were considered, researched and tested when choosing between an oiled filter and a dry media (paper) filter. The 3 main requirements that were important to us are the same characteristics that are important to all consumers when choosing an air filter; those 3 items are filtration, air flow and longevity.

Filtration and Airflow:

In order for a dry media, paper air filter to filter dirt effectively, the filter and its fibers must be thick and densely compressed in order for them to filtrate up to industry standards. That being said, this denser and thicker media becomes more restrictive, not allowing air to flow as fast and efficiently as it should. Due to this restrictive media, over time, a dry media paper filter will build up with more and more dust and dirt particles.
Once debris has built up to a certain point, the pressure inside the filter will drop while the air pressure outside the filter will remain the same. If the buildup gets too bad, and the difference in pressure becomes too great, it can result in a dry media paper filter to cave in or collapse on itself. In addition, an excessively high difference in pressure between the inside and outside of the filter, brought on by an overly clogged filter media, can literally pull dirt particles through the paper medium. This causes the air flow and filtration to decrease as the filter becomes more and more clogged.

In comparison, oiled filters include multiple layers of oiled cotton or gauze fabric which captures dirt and debris more effectively. The debris entering the filter will actually stick to the oiled fibers of the filter, and actually become part of the filtering media. This process, sometimes referred to as depth loading by some filter manufacturers, allows the filter to retain more dirt per square inch than a paper filter. On many oiled filters, the cotton or gauze fabric is then meshed between pleated aluminum screens. Pleating the layers of filter media increases the surface area which allows the filter to be in use longer, and capture more debris than a standard non oiled and/or non-pleated filter media.

As dust particles enter the filter they are stopped by the interwoven layers and are then captured in place through the oil. Dirt and debris that are retained on the surface of an oiled filter media have little effect on air flow because there are no small holes to clog like there would be on a paper filter media due to the interwoven layers. So when a paper filter starts to clog, an oiled filter media is still filtering debris just as effectively as when you purchased it, as well as retaining a higher level of airflow. This is due largely to the oiled filter media as well as the method that is used to hold the layers together.

When tested, we have found that an oiled filter media will have less restricted flow when compared to a dry media paper filter on a flow bench test. Although an oiled filter media may have between 4 and 8 layers of filtration, it still flows faster and less restricted than a paper filter that is densely bound together. So while filtration is increased, the flow is also increased because of the manner in which the filter layers are constructed.

Longevity:

Another great reason to choose an oiled filter over a dry paper filter is for the longevity and cost savings it will provide you. On average, a paper filter should be replaced between 4,000 to 5,000 miles or every oil change. Typically the average cost of a paper filter is about $10 to $12. After one year of driving 15,000 miles, at least 3 paper filters are needed, this totals $30 to $35. An oiled filter will generally run from $25 to $50, but will never need to be replaced! Therefore an oiled filter will “pay itself off” so to speak in 1-2 years. As long as you plan on driving for more than another 2 years, your costs saving over the life of the vehicle will greatly add up, especially if you are paying for the labor to replace the filter at your dealer or local auto shop. Considering the fact that you may only need to “recharge” your oiled filter a few times during the course of its service life, and that It will never need to be replaced, it makes vehicle maintenance simpler and more affordable.
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:05 PM   #10
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Thanks Apex.......Excellent article by Bill!!!!!
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Old 06-23-2012, 12:45 AM   #11
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I use a K&N. Always have because I've had the best results with them. But my blackwing came with a blue dry filter.
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:47 AM   #12
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Haha and that is exactly why I didn't go with oiled lol.

glad im not the only one
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Old 06-23-2012, 12:29 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Andy@AMSOIL View Post
I would do a dry, sometimes it has been known for the MAF sensor not linking the oil after time. Another plus of the dry would be easier to clean
These kinds of issues are due to user error (excessively oiling the filter). It is not something that is inherent to oiled filters. In the event that that does happen you can drop by AutoZone and pick up some MAF sensor cleaner and you are good to go.
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Old 06-23-2012, 02:01 PM   #14
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vararam is _________?
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:23 PM   #15
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I have a dry one. Just vacuum it when dirty.
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:25 PM   #16
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I would assume dry if you didn't have to do anything to it.
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:25 PM   #17
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vararam is _________?
Vararam is oiled
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Old 06-24-2012, 07:38 AM   #18
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I have seen k&n filters coming in soak from factory, they could also be over oiling.

But if I have a filter that is testing to make more power on the butt dyno, that is cleaner, flows better and easier to clean and keeps the maf sensor dry why would I get an oiled makes no senses to me. Dry filter you blow it with some air from the inside out and ready to go,, oiled filters is an entire freking process that takes hours to clean between the time you submerge it to clean the old oils then dry it then re oil it,,, geez !
To each it's own
It is a decision each person has to make. I have no vested interest in convincing anyone to choose one or the other, I am just here to make sure people have good information on which to base their decision. All I can say is that oiled filters are much more effective at filtration with minimal restriction. From a performance perspective they are the obvious choice and that is why most air intake manufacturers use them. Recharging an oiled filter takes about 5 minutes of actual work and the rest is drying time. Keep in mind, this is only done about every 25,000 miles.


Step 1. Remove - Remove the filter from your vehicle and ensure that no dirt or other debris enters the intake tube while the filter is off.

Step 2. Pre-Clean - Using your hand and/or compressed air (no more than 100 psi using a standard air nozzle) remove the larger visible debris from the outside of the filter. When using compressed air keep the nozzle at least 6” from the filter media.

Step 3. Clean - Spray the outside of the filter with cleaning solution until the entire outer filter media is evenly saturated. Allow the filter to rest so the solution can soak in for 15 minutes.

Step 4. Rinse - Rinse the Filter with warm water by running the water from the clean side of the filter thru to the dirty side of the filter, so that the water can flush the dirt out and off of the filter.

Step 5. Dry - Allow the filter to air dry naturally. (DO NOT use heat sources in attempt to dry the filter faster as this may damage the filter media fibers and/or shrink them.)

Step 6. Oil – Once dry, apply oil solution to the outside of the filter media using 1 spray for every 2 square inches of filter media. DO NOT OVER OIL

Step 7. Dry – Allow oiled filter to dry for 30 minutes so that oil can soak into and “recharge” the filter media. You should be able to handle the filter without the oil coming off on your hands, once this is the case your filter is ready to be reinstalled.

Step 8. Reinstall – Properly reinstall your recharged filter and make sure all connections are tight.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:01 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Apex Chase View Post
It is a decision each person has to make. I have no vested interest in convincing anyone to choose one or the other, I am just here to make sure people have good information on which to base their decision. All I can say is that oiled filters are much more effective at filtration with minimal restriction. From a performance perspective they are the obvious choice and that is why most air intake manufacturers use them. Recharging an oiled filter takes about 5 minutes of actual work and the rest is drying time. Keep in mind, this is only done about every 25,000 miles.
How bout a certain time I should clean it? e.g. once a year, once every two years. I've had my car for about 11 months and I barely have 6,200 miles on it and it's my DD. Does this mean I won't have to clean the filter for about 4 years? (Installed CAI intake last Friday).
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