Lowering Spring Performance Claims

[Sleepy]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

You have it almost 100% correct. Coilovers that adjust ride height with the spring perch suffer from the same issue with jounce travel. They are perfect at the preferred height of the coilover MFG. If you want it taller there is too much jounce travel. If you want it lower there is too little jounce travel.

Great post

Thanks. What I said is certainly true for both Pedders Xa and Supercar coilovers. It doesn't matter if I have it slammed to the ground or jacked up in the air, I will still get full suspension travel.

[cterry]

I had no problems with my eibachs and did not think the ride was bad at all. Never ran hotchkins so don't know the difference, but love my new BC coilovers. The person I bought them from is borrowing my eibach springs till his new coilovers are ready and said they ride a lot better than his HR springs that he orginally had. I always knew I wanted coilovers, but the lowering springs worked great for 3 years I had them and autocrossed with them.

[MARINE1991]

Originally Posted by cterry

I had no problems with my eibachs and did not think the ride was bad at all. Never ran hotchkins so don't know the difference, but love my new BC coilovers. The person I bought them from is borrowing my eibach springs till his new coilovers are ready and said they ride a lot better than his HR springs that he orginally had. I always knew I wanted coilovers, but the lowering springs worked great for 3 years I had them and autocrossed with them.

Chuck might be the next thing to i get changed out...

[cterry]

Originally Posted by MARINE1991

Chuck might be the next thing to i get changed out...

I was so excited I got everything dialed in after threee weeks of issues with the adjustable toe links, I forgot to adjust them when I practiced for the ls show down at Adams last tues night.
Still really liked them on the track and just read some opinions what to set them at for autocross.

[MARINE1991]

Originally Posted by cterry

I was so excited I got everything dialed in after threee weeks of issues with the adjustable toe links, I forgot to adjust them when I practiced for the ls show down at Adams last tues night.
Still really liked them on the track and just read some opinions what to set them at for autocross.

Jason should know.... also Dave aka caverman knows too...pm him very helpful..

God I have to get a life know too much now....

[MARINE1991]

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...light=Caverman

[cterry]

Originally Posted by MARINE1991

Jason should know.... also Dave aka caverman knows too...pm him very helpful..

God I have to get a life know too much now....

I was reading some of the stuff Caverman wrote about it. Will try it out next Tues if they do another practice before the LS show.

[bajamoon]

My pfadt springs are OK but can't wait to get them swapped out for bc coilovers. No hotchkis for me!

Sent from my Damn phone

[MARINE1991]

Originally Posted by bajamoon

My pfadt springs are OK but can't wait to get them swapped out for bc coilovers. No hotchkis for me!

Sent from my Damn phone

[MARINE1991]

Originally Posted by cterry

I was reading some of the stuff Caverman wrote about it. Will try it out next Tues if they do another practice before the LS show.

chuck cool hope it helped out...

[bajamoon]

Originally Posted by So Cal Camaro

David, clearly you don't care ...no thanks, no Hotchkis for me, ever...I will be getting Ride Tech coilovers when they are in production, but will keep all the BMR stuff I have, never had an issue with their products.

And I know you changed many things, and by the way did I win the auction on the tires you don't like anymore?

I'm the same way Danny! Hotchkis will never be on my car and I want bc or Pedders.

Sent from my Damn phone

[cterry]

Originally Posted by MARINE1991

chuck cool hope it helped out...

definately, I would have went out there with all on 32 thinking stiffer equals better, but apparently in the front it will cause more understeer.

[Norm Peterson]

There's a Koni shock tuning guide that you can use to give some direction to your shock tuning process, which is basically start out soft and add damping rather than start firm and take damping out. Ignore the Koni-specific details such as the number of clicks or sweeps.

It may also help answer a couple of the questions.

Originally Posted by http://www.koniracing.com/rrtuningguide.cfm

Suggested Adjustment Procedure for Road Course Use

Adjusting the Compression (Bump) Damping Control


Bump damping controls the unsprung weight of the vehicle (wheels, axles, etc.). It controls the upward movement of the suspension such as hitting a bump in the track. It should not be used to control the downward movement of the vehicle when it encounters dips. Also, it should not be used to control roll or bottoming.


Depending on the vehicle, the ideal bump setting can occur at any point within the adjustment range. This setting will be reached when "side-hop" or "walking" in a bumpy turn is minimal and the ride is not uncomfortably harsh. At any point other than this ideal setting, the "side-hopping" condition will be more pronounced and the ride may be too harsh.


1. Set all four dampers on minimum bump and minimum rebound settings.

2. Drive one or two laps to get the feel of the car.
NOTE: When driving the car during the bump adjustment phase, disregard body lean or roll and concentrate solely on how the car feels over bumps. Also, try to notice if the car "walks" or "side-hops" on a rough turn.

3. Increase bump adjustment clockwise 3 clicks on all four dampers. Drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until a point is reached where the car starts to feel hard over bumpy surfaces.

4. Back off the bump adjustment two clicks. The bump control is now set.

NOTE: The back off point will likely be reached sooner on one end of the vehicle than the other. If this occurs, keep increasing the bump on the soft end until it too feels too hard. Then back that side off two clicks. The bump control is now set.


Adjusting the Rebound Damping Control
Once you have found what you feel to be the best bump setting on all four wheels, you are now ready to proceed with adjusting the rebound damping. The rebound damping controls the transitional roll (lean) as when entering a turn. It does not limit the total amount of roll; it does limit how fast this total roll angle is achieved. How much the vehicle actually leans is determined by other things such as spring rate, sway bars, roll center heights, etc.


It should be noted that too much rebound damping on either end of the vehicle will cause an initial loss of lateral acceleration (cornering power) at that end which will cause the vehicle to oversteer or understeer excessively when entering a turn. Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered. This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.



1. With the rebound set on full soft and the bump control set from your testing, drive the car one or two laps, paying attention to how the car rolls when entering a turn.

2. Increase rebound damping three sweeps or 3/4 of a turn on all four dampers and drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until the car enters the turns smoothly (no drastic attitude changes) and without leaning excessively. Any increase in the rebound stiffness beyond this point is unnecessary and may in fact be detrimental.

EXCEPTION: It may be desirable to have a car that assumes an oversteering or understeering attitude when entering a turn. This preference, of course, will vary from one driver to another depending on the individual driving style.

Norm

[MARINE1991]

Originally Posted by cterry

definately, I would have went out there with all on 32 thinking stiffer equals better, but apparently in the front it will cause more understeer.

sweet...

[MARINE1991]

Originally Posted by bajamoon

I'm the same way Danny! Hotchkis will never be on my car and I want bc or Pedders.

Sent from my Damn phone

babbooo once again.....

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by cterry

definately, I would have went out there with all on 32 thinking stiffer equals better, but apparently in the front it will cause more understeer.

15 mid point front and 22 8 off full hard rear with Pedders Xa coilovers is where he needs to start.

What were his tire pressures cold and hot?
What are his alignment specs?
What suspension mods does he have?
What wheels and tires does he run?

[cterry]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

15 mid point front and 22 8 off full hard rear with Pedders Xa coilovers is where he needs to start.

What were his tire pressures cold and hot?
What are his alignment specs?
What suspension mods does he have?
What wheels and tires does he run?

Thanks for the tips. I have invos on my 3 piece forged wheels that I have ran a few times, but going to run my stock wheels with the stock pirellis till they are done and switch to something better like NT 05's.. Planned on running the pirellis at 32psi. I have eiback sways, BC coil overs, proven wicked end links, GMS trailing arms and Gms 1g chasis brace. Its lowered about 2 inches lower than stock and I just had it aligned. I had them set it at "aggressive Street" spec's that I got off one of these threads.

[cterry]

Just found the thread and it was from Pedders. They mechanic did say he could't get the specs in the rear that the agressive street numbers were looking for. Think he said he got to 1 ??? sounds like I may need Camber plates to reach the right Camber with my drop.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by cterry

Just found the thread and it was from Pedders. They mechanic did say he could't get the specs in the rear that the agressive street numbers were looking for. Think he said he got to 1 ??? sounds like I may need Camber plates to reach the right Camber with my drop.

Pedders is the only company I am aware of that makes extended range rear camber eccentrics. They add a degree of adjustment over the OEM eccentric bolts. Some alignment techs struggle with the rear camber and toe. They work against each other just like an old school wishbone control arm. If they set the toe to a neutral position they may be able to get greater camber adjustment, but with a two inch drop new eccentrics are in order.