Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Solo Performance
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Technical Camaro Topics > Audio, Video, Bluetooth, Navigation, Radar, Electronics Forum

Audio, Video, Bluetooth, Navigation, Radar, Electronics Forum All audio, video, bluetooth, nav, radar, and electronics discussions.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 07-25-2012, 06:13 PM   #1
alexw
It is the year...
 
alexw's Avatar
 
Drives: 2LT RS Rally Yellow
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oaks / Audubon PA
Posts: 575
Boston Acoustics / Camaro Speaker Rattle - Again - Videos

I've been reading up on the BA Rattle issues. There doesn't seem to be a definitive answer, on top of several different potential issues.

My issue has been present since the day I got my car, but it's gotten worse over the last 6 months. That leads me to believe its an issue with the way the speakers are mounted, the trunk frame, decklid, etc. My consistent playing of bassy music has weakened an already poorly designed/manufactured area of the car. Not the speakers about to be blown.

It only happens at certain tones of bass. Not all bass. Older rap music, generally fine, bass was not captured as richly in digital format as it is today. Plus, since the kids primarily listen to rap on iphones and shitty computer speakers, the artists have pushed up the bass levels and frequencies so you can feel/hear them even on shitty speakers. That being said, any modern system should be able to handle it.

I think when certain resonances hit in these newer tracks, the design of the trunk cavity triggers something to happen which makes the rear lid/frame rattle to shit. The reason I say this, is that the vibration/rattle will happen even if you turn the volume down to below 10. So it's not a blown speaker, and it's not a pure volume issue.

First video - shows a track playing from inside the trunk. If I hold down the speaker with my hand, tightening up the space between the speaker and frame, or just tightening the frame itself, it stops.



Second video - shows it from in cabin, with bass at zero, and volume at 20, which I think is reasonable expectation of working properly with music over the radio (aka, leveled properly, standard equalization/amplification). I did lower the highs and mids just so you guys can hear the rattle easier. In that clip, you can see how most bass is fine, but certain tones trigger the rattle.



I tried the method of using weather stripping along the trunklid/window (no dynamat). Did not work. Dampened it a bit, but no fix. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...4&postcount=12

I stuffed microfiber towels in the drainage cavity that runs along the top of the trunk. That helped the most, but as soon as they jiggled a bit, came back partially. AND - once it rained, forget it. Mess. Not a long term solution.

I do not have the ability right now to screw in screws to fasten the speaker tighter to the frame. Tried with a regular Philips head from outside the car to punch the metal, not easy and I'm in a public parking lot. Maybe if I get access to a garage I'll try with an electric driver. Only heard one person definitely say this fixed this issue tho. Would like to hear others if it worked. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4137094

I will try dynamat as a last resort, don't feel like ripping carpet and seat out and all that if not necessary. Don't want my trunk to look like a space suit.

I am not having GM replace my amp via that dealership notice, because it is not the power/volume. It's not even the speakers IMO. If I dump new 6x9s in there, it will still happen (IMO, haven't tried).

So, if anyone has any suggestions, other than to stop listening to rap, I'm all ears.

And, if there is no answer, then I'd just like this documented again because it's pretty shitty on GM's part.

Whether it's spacial design, frame design, frame construction, speakers, speaker placement, or speaker/amp combo - either way its a GM **** up and it really really sucks that I'm wasting my time trying to figure it out.

On top of the fact I supposedly paid extra for this.

Thanks for reading.
alexw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 07:41 PM   #2
CWI
Helping Build America
 
CWI's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS,LS3 2013 Duramax 3500HD
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Nationwide
Posts: 3,736
Quote:
Originally Posted by alexw View Post
I've been reading up on the BA Rattle issues. There doesn't seem to be a definitive answer, on top of several different potential issues.

My issue has been present since the day I got my car, but it's gotten worse over the last 6 months. That leads me to believe its an issue with the way the speakers are mounted, the trunk frame, decklid, etc. My consistent playing of bassy music has weakened an already poorly designed/manufactured area of the car. Not the speakers about to be blown.

It only happens at certain tones of bass. Not all bass. Older rap music, generally fine, bass was not captured as richly in digital format as it is today. Plus, since the kids primarily listen to rap on iphones and shitty computer speakers, the artists have pushed up the bass levels and frequencies so you can feel/hear them even on shitty speakers. That being said, any modern system should be able to handle it.

I think when certain resonances hit in these newer tracks, the design of the trunk cavity triggers something to happen which makes the rear lid/frame rattle to shit. The reason I say this, is that the vibration/rattle will happen even if you turn the volume down to below 10. So it's not a blown speaker, and it's not a pure volume issue.

First video - shows a track playing from inside the trunk. If I hold down the speaker with my hand, tightening up the space between the speaker and frame, or just tightening the frame itself, it stops.



Second video - shows it from in cabin, with bass at zero, and volume at 20, which I think is reasonable expectation of working properly with music over the radio (aka, leveled properly, standard equalization/amplification). I did lower the highs and mids just so you guys can hear the rattle easier. In that clip, you can see how most bass is fine, but certain tones trigger the rattle.



I tried the method of using weather stripping along the trunklid/window (no dynamat). Did not work. Dampened it a bit, but no fix. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...4&postcount=12

I stuffed microfiber towels in the drainage cavity that runs along the top of the trunk. That helped the most, but as soon as they jiggled a bit, came back partially. AND - once it rained, forget it. Mess. Not a long term solution.

I do not have the ability right now to screw in screws to fasten the speaker tighter to the frame. Tried with a regular Philips head from outside the car to punch the metal, not easy and I'm in a public parking lot. Maybe if I get access to a garage I'll try with an electric driver. Only heard one person definitely say this fixed this issue tho. Would like to hear others if it worked. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4137094

I will try dynamat as a last resort, don't feel like ripping carpet and seat out and all that if not necessary. Don't want my trunk to look like a space suit.

I am not having GM replace my amp via that dealership notice, because it is not the power/volume. It's not even the speakers IMO. If I dump new 6x9s in there, it will still happen (IMO, haven't tried).

So, if anyone has any suggestions, other than to stop listening to rap, I'm all ears.

And, if there is no answer, then I'd just like this documented again because it's pretty shitty on GM's part.

Whether it's spacial design, frame design, frame construction, speakers, speaker placement, or speaker/amp combo - either way its a GM **** up and it really really sucks that I'm wasting my time trying to figure it out.

On top of the fact I supposedly paid extra for this.

Thanks for reading.
I would replace the 6x9s and intall some Dynamat. I have a lot of power in my system including two 12" subs with over 1000 watts each. With Dynamat I don't hear any rattles. Sounds like part of your issue is distortion coming from the radio. I don't listen to rap, can't stand it, I don't have a problem even with bass heavy R&R.
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy shit, what a ride!"
CWI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 11:03 PM   #3
darkrider01
Aural Assault Vehicle
 
darkrider01's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS, 2014 Cruze 1LT/RS
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 677
You can go to BestBuy and buy a single Dynamat kit for around $37-40. One sheet is all it took for my deck to stop the rattling. It actually took less than one sheet.

I really think Dynamat alone would solve your problem, but best bet really is to remove the rear panels and dynamat the top and bottom side of the rear deck. I have only done the top of my rear deck so far, but it eliminated most of my rattle coming from the deck area. I have a little one somewhere still (I think it's one of the LATCH covers - car seat in the back makes it hard to tell exactly).

Have you watched and tried what the guy does in this video?



If that is what you're hearing, then dynamat did fix that for me. Best of luck man.
__________________
My amplifier pop/click/thump solution thread
Power Mods * K&N Typhoon CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust, Hurst Short Throw Shifter Visual Mods * Black Phantom Grille Suspension Mods * BC Racing Coilovers * Lakewood Strut Tower Brace
Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Pioneer DEX-P99RS * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692
darkrider01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 11:16 PM   #4
Heath901
 
Drives: SS/RS
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Memphis
Posts: 12
I have noticed this in my back deck on my car also. I was told the same thing just buy/install some Dynamat in the back and it would fix things up fine. I have not done installed any Dynamat though yet.
Heath901 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 09:26 AM   #5
alexw
It is the year...
 
alexw's Avatar
 
Drives: 2LT RS Rally Yellow
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oaks / Audubon PA
Posts: 575
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkrider01 View Post
You can go to BestBuy and buy a single Dynamat kit for around $37-40. One sheet is all it took for my deck to stop the rattling. It actually took less than one sheet.

I really think Dynamat alone would solve your problem, but best bet really is to remove the rear panels and dynamat the top and bottom side of the rear deck. I have only done the top of my rear deck so far, but it eliminated most of my rattle coming from the deck area. I have a little one somewhere still (I think it's one of the LATCH covers - car seat in the back makes it hard to tell exactly).

Have you watched and tried what the guy does in this video?



If that is what you're hearing, then dynamat did fix that for me. Best of luck man.
That video what is happening to me as well. The first video above I did is similar.

So, you said one strip of Dynamat fixed most of your problem. Where exactly did you apply it, if I may ask?

Thanks!
alexw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 10:31 AM   #6
darkrider01
Aural Assault Vehicle
 
darkrider01's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS, 2014 Cruze 1LT/RS
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 677
Quote:
Originally Posted by alexw View Post
That video what is happening to me as well. The first video above I did is similar.

So, you said one strip of Dynamat fixed most of your problem. Where exactly did you apply it, if I may ask?

Thanks!
I have applied it my doors, back seat sides, rear deck, trunk lid, and about 45% of my trunk so far. The plan is to finish out the trunk over the next few weeks.

As far as where I applied it to the deck - I removed the deck cover and removed the speakers. I covered the entire top of the deck (or at least 90% of it) and then I installed new speakers with SubThump speaker spacer/adapters. I was planning on covering the bottom of the deck as well, but after covering the top, I didn't get the rattling I had before.

If you'd like to be extra sure, you could always do both sides of the deck and then use any leftovers on the plastic cover. On the plastic cover, you would want to focus on the areas around the blue/purple clips.

Check out this thread - this is similar to how mine went.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=rear+speakers
__________________
My amplifier pop/click/thump solution thread
Power Mods * K&N Typhoon CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust, Hurst Short Throw Shifter Visual Mods * Black Phantom Grille Suspension Mods * BC Racing Coilovers * Lakewood Strut Tower Brace
Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Pioneer DEX-P99RS * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692
darkrider01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 11:02 AM   #7
alexw
It is the year...
 
alexw's Avatar
 
Drives: 2LT RS Rally Yellow
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oaks / Audubon PA
Posts: 575
Thanks. I appreciate the input, and will probably have to do something like that down the road.

The fact that all of that has to be done to get a stock radio system to play rap music is ridiculous though.
alexw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 01:09 PM   #8
darkrider01
Aural Assault Vehicle
 
darkrider01's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS, 2014 Cruze 1LT/RS
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 677
Quote:
Originally Posted by alexw View Post
Thanks. I appreciate the input, and will probably have to do something like that down the road.

The fact that all of that has to be done to get a stock radio system to play rap music is ridiculous though.
Agreed!

I was pretty impressed with the bass that the factory 6x9's can put out with a clean amp pushing them. Replacing the amp and adding a little dynamat goes a very long way in this car.

After everything I learned doing my install, I really think I could have been close to satisfied by adding some dynamat and replacing the factory amp with the JBL MS-8. Maybe, maybe not. Unfortunately, for my bank account, I had to learn a lot through trial and error.

I wish I could take a factory car and just replace the Boston amp with a MS-8 though. I'd love to hear what it could do by itself. I'd bet on it sounding awesome if it was set up correctly.
__________________
My amplifier pop/click/thump solution thread
Power Mods * K&N Typhoon CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust, Hurst Short Throw Shifter Visual Mods * Black Phantom Grille Suspension Mods * BC Racing Coilovers * Lakewood Strut Tower Brace
Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Pioneer DEX-P99RS * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692
darkrider01 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.