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Old 08-29-2013, 01:32 AM   #1
yzark99
 
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Drives: 2012 Silver Ice 1LT
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Talking Yzark99's mod madness

I have finished over 30 mods now. I have also put together 4 DIYs. Please see my new mods index below.

Future Modifications: • New 6.5" Midranges • Front Parking Camera • Throttle Controller (maybe next year?)


DIYs:

Upgrade to Heated Outside Mirrors: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...95#post6577995

Make your own front Mud Flaps: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247119

How to mount Accessory Switches in the cup holder area: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=250418

Make your Dome Light any color (PDF): http://www.camaro5.com/forums/attach...6&d=1373088004
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Old 08-29-2013, 01:34 AM   #2
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Dome Light Filters: In DIY link above. I also replaced the OEM bulb with a white LED from here: http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/...&productId=337

The filter shows all purple to the eyes, but the camera picks up on the intense white from the LEDs.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:14 AM   #3
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Drake Bowtie Delete: $50 shipped direct from Drake in Henderson, NV. I think this cleans up the front end.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:23 AM   #4
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Yzk Cup Holder Accessory Switches: In DIY link above. I can't hold a camera still to prevent moving lights, but you can get the idea. The Driver's side switch is to turn on my subwoofer, and the Passenger's side switch controls footwell lighting: I is on, middle is off, and II is on with dome light.

Both switches are connected to the green wire at the rear of the center console, so they are off when the ignition key is removed - to prevent a dead battery.
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:05 AM   #5
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LED Inside Door Pull Lighting: I have always liked the UV color of purple lighting in fun houses. I decided to go with more of a purple color, as the UV can be hard on the eyes.

I got my LEDs from microtivity on Amazon, about $7 shipped for 25. They are the flat or "straw hat" versions - not the normal dome style that you see everywhere. They are so bright that they actually light up the sill on the passenger side, from the light spill over the handle when the door is opened - but my car is SIM which helps. YMMV

I drilled a hole in the passenger's side handle area to start. I removed the door panel from the car for this. I re-installed the pocket cover plate, and used a center punch to mark where to drill; then removed it again to drill. I had to drill inside out, as there was zero clearance to drill from the back.

Somehow, I managed to not only scratch above and below the pocket with my drill bit, but the dash as well. Oh well.

I used a drill that was slightly bigger than the LED diameter to finish the hole. I then taped the LED into this hole. It doesn't protrude from the hole inside the pocket.

I connected the + and - from my LED wiring assembly (bare bulb + soldered resister + wires) to the yellow and black wires on the door window switch. This has worked great (see photo).

The driver's side was carefully drilled out without marking anything.

That has been the only good on that side. There are no yellow and black wires on the 2012 driver's side window switch. My first attempt failed, switching to different pairs failed for #2, #3 - I used a multimeter to check voltages on the passenger's side - but all voltages on the driver's side are different! F'n GM!

Now I am thinking that I will need to run a wire from the working passenger's side yellow wire into the driver's side door to hook this up. PITA!

Update: The LED is dead in less than a year. I will need to find another supplier that has this color.
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:47 AM   #6
IOM Black Diamond
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Wow you have a ton of wright ups, very nice.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:46 PM   #7
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Thank you.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:51 PM   #8
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Drake Auto Shift Handle: I got one of these after seeing a picture of it installed. Someone also made a comment about how the stock shifter looks like a stitched ball-sack, which I have to agree with. I got mine from Yates Performance for $90 shipped.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:04 PM   #9
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Gorilla Wheel Locks: I have had wheel locks on my cars ever since my neighbors came outside one morning to find their car on blocks, and their rim+tires stolen. They got them replaced with insurance money; but then their replacements got stolen also.

I figure anything that slows down a scumbag is worth doing, and wheel locks are a lot cheaper than even a single rim. I get the versions with the free-rotating sleeve to thwart vice grips. I know about the hammering a cheap socket on trick, but that usually makes a bunch of noise.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:07 PM   #10
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Unofficial Cargo Net: I got this on Amazon for about $18 shipped. No reason to pay GM $40 or more.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:13 PM   #11
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Satin Billet Door Locks: I bought these to replace the dull stock pins. These make it a lot easier to see if your doors are locked or unlocked. I have the sleeve and the pin on the driver's side, but only the pin on the passenger's side. Something makes both pieces rattle like crazy on the passenger's side (maybe a weight imbalance). These can be gotten in satin, polished, orange, or black.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:22 PM   #12
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Pioneer TS-T15 Tweeters: I replaced the harsh stock tweeters with these (non-BA system). They are a fabric dome so they do not ring like Hertz (hertz my ears), or other metal dome tweeters. They have a funky attached dome on them, which doesn't lay flat if removed. I figured that I would rather see the nice dome on them than the cheesy ones on the stock pods, so I took a hole saw and modded the pods.

An unexpected bonus is that the tweeters could be swiveled to face more towards the listening position; as the dome cover rides on the new holes. I used hot glue to secure them in position.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:41 PM   #13
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BA G3 12" Subwoofer: I have always wanted a subwoofer in my previous cars, but I never had the money. I did a bunch of research, and narrowed it down to BA G3 and some boutique brand. I decided to go with BA for several reasons. One was that they use fuses on the inputs to prevent blown coils. Two was that the higher models had replaceable cones; so you can switch from 2 Ohms to 4 Ohms easily. A third intriguing design is what they call Q-tune: which is basically a way to achieve better bass than a ported box with a sealed one. It is like a teeter-totter where as the bass roll-off is raised, the upper frequencies are lowered. Since this is a sub, I don't care about upper frequency drop-off. This only works with their amps; which seems a bit convenient.

I found the BA G3 on sale at Crutchfield for $114, with an included box. Most aftermarket boxes cost around $60 to ship, so free was fine with me. I had to beef up the box, but it was still cheaper than ordering a new one. I added top handles, beefy binding posts, and multiple layers of specialty foam inside. I also went direct to BA, and ordered a second cone assembly for future options. The replacement cone cost me more than the entire package from Crutchfield!
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:52 PM   #14
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BA GTA 1000M Amp: I got this from Crutchfield for $260 when BA decided to leave the mobile audio field. I was originally looking for the 500M, but this on sale was about $40 more for double the power. I am currently running my sub at 4-Ohms, so this puts out 600 watts; but I can also re-cone my sub to 2-Ohms, and this will put out 1000 watts. 600 is more than enough.

I have 4-gauge wiring from Knuconceptz for power and ground. Signal exits the front speakers connection on the back of the HU, runs down the passenger side, and then splits into 2 wiring harnesses for high-level inputs on my 2 amps. Speaker wiring is 10 gauge twisted. Boost runs to a control knob by my knees under the dash; and it works by voltage trimming, not signal, to reduce picking up noise from other sources.
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Old 08-31-2013, 01:50 PM   #15
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Custom amp & sub rack: I originally mounted my amp under the rear deck, suspended on a shelf that I made. This was a problem, as the sub box got in the way of groceries and laundry baskets. I also was planning to get more amps, but there was no space to fit them under the deck.

I thought about what I wanted for a long time, and then made a rack out of wood that can support 4 amps or crossovers, with a space in the middle large enough to hold my sub box. I started with the sub facing forwards, but months later I tried a bunch of different configurations to find the loudest sound. Facing to the rear sounded the best, and the loudest. I guess the bass wave has more room to propagate before it reflects to my ears.

When I turned the sub to face the rear, I cut off the extra wood shown in the photos (1-3) that supported the box when it faced towards the front of the car.

This rack is held down by the weight of things sitting on it, and it fits around the wheel humps on the 2012 carpet. It can be easily removed if needed. I put 3 coats of flat black on it, with 3 coats of clear.

Update May 2014: I now hold the sub in place with spring-loaded hooks that attach to eyebolts on the sub box, and to the rear deck support. When the sub is removed, the whole amp rack can be tipped up, and attached to the hooks to allow easy access to the spare tire well. It is really slick and convenient.
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Old 08-31-2013, 01:54 PM   #16
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De-labeled Visors: I read on C5 about how someone did this, and I decided to do it also. Before their post, I had no idea how easy it was. Basically, I used a heat gun over the kitchen sink to get the stickers hot, then peeled them off. They look a lot better without those stupid stickers.
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Old 08-31-2013, 01:59 PM   #17
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Ignition Keyed Locking Gas Cap: This was another cool idea from a member on C5. Now the only way to open the cap is with the ignition key, not some generic key that anyone can buy. The keys can be removed after unlocking the cap, and they do not need to be in the cap to lock it shut.
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Old 08-31-2013, 02:12 PM   #18
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Yzk Mud Flaps: I had originally bought stealth mud flaps from RPI, but they crumbled after 4 months. I made my own front flaps out of metal sheeting that I got from Lowe's for $3. I painted them flat black, with several coats of clear. They have lasted over a year in rainy Oregon without any problems.
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Old 08-31-2013, 02:17 PM   #19
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RX Catch Can: I got this to catch the dirty oil vapors in the PCV system, before it got to my intake. GM wants us to do an expensive upper induction cleaning every 15,000 miles; for $300 or more a pop. So far, I have caught maybe 6 oz in 5,000 miles.
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Old 08-31-2013, 02:20 PM   #20
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RX Oil Breather Cap: This is to prevent blow-back from the stock PCV system into the intake at WOT. I am now planning to replace this with a smaller catch can, and re-connect the original feed.
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Old 08-31-2013, 02:25 PM   #21
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Green Filter: While I was waiting for Vararam to stop screwing around and release their 2012 CAI, I read how they tested one of these on their flow bench and it beat Roto-Fab's intake on the V8. It was about $60, and I haven't felt a need to upgrade to a CAI since I installed it.
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:17 AM   #22
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LED Footwell Lighting: I thought this was a cool idea. I haven't had this on a car since my '78 Cadillac. I wanted a certain color that none of the aftermarket suppliers had; plus the prices they wanted seemed silly. I decided to roll my own.

I wanted LEDs in a nice shade of purple, just to be different. I figured that they would work good with the gray carpeting that my car has. I got my LEDs from microtivity on Amazon, about $7 shipped for 25. They are the flat or "straw hat" versions - not the normal dome style that you see everywhere.

I wired them up in 4 clusters of 4 lights each. I soldered them into a cross shape, where they could be collapsed to fit through the switch hole. That way, I could solder to the switch instead of using taps like I usually do when I connect car wiring. I also soldered a resistor to each LED; they come with the LEDs from the supplier.

Each light is wired in parallel, so if one fails the rest will still light. I spread each cluster out wide after I got them through the hole, and wrapped electrical tape around the funky flowers. I then mounted them to the existing plastic mounts under the dash on each side.

8 lights per side is almost too much light, but I didn't know how much they would put out when I designed this. Each LED color is a different intensity, so you have to plan based on what you get. White is the brightest, and UV is the faintest.

My switch is a 3-way: on-off-on. I wired one lead to the dome light circuit in the BCM, and added a fuse just in case. The other connects to the green wire in the center console that goes to the rear power point. I mounted the switch in the center console where I had already mounted my amplifier turn-on switch.

The first picture shows the design that I came up with. The white wires at the top are for my door handle pull lighting.
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:30 AM   #23
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VMax Ported Throttle Body: I don't have a picture of this, but there are plenty on C5. What this does is eliminate the hesitation when you are moving at slow speeds. Before I had this, I felt like I was going to get rear-ended a few times when I floored it and the car just sat there. Those days are over. Now the car moves like it should have from the factory. The best performance mod that I have done!
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:39 AM   #24
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Solo Mach X-LFX J-Pipe Cat-Back Exhaust: This was my second mod after my catch can. I listened to all of the exhaust samples on C5, and also a bunch on YouTube. The Solo system sounded the best to me. There are a bunch of ricers around here with fart cans, and I wanted something better than that. Everyone who has heard it loves it.

Start-up: http://www.youtube.com/embed/nRl7yfIrNcE

Also more movies on post #36.

I like how my Camaro sounds like a sports car now, and not like the Honda it was from the factory. It is not a V8 sound, but it is great for a V6.

It makes me smile every time I start the engine.
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:06 AM   #25
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ZL1 Front Swaybar & End Links: I don't have a picture of this. There is a freeway on-ramp near me that is a s-bend. Before I got this upgrade, the body roll on my car was so bad that I was scared to go over 30 MPH. I was just there tonight; at 55! It was just starting to feel like it used to at 30.

I was a little leery of this mod, as there really didn't seem to be anyone who had done it on a V6. I asked a bunch of questions on C5, and it looked like it could be done easily; so I went for it.

I ordered the parts through the dealer that I got my car from. They took about a month to get in. The dealer had to drill out the existing holes in the struts to mount these, but the size went from 10mm to 12mm; which is about 1/32" diameter which is nothing.

After the holes were drilled, it was discovered that some bozo had put a driver's side link in the passenger's side box at the factory. My car was then shimmed with my approval, as there wasn't anything that could be done after the hole was already enlarged.

I walk to work, so the shim wasn't as bad as it could have been; but it was a concern anyway. It took about 2 weeks to get a replacement part due to constraints from the factory. The new part was also in the wrong box!

The service manager escalated this to the Western GM Parts Manager, who had his people go through over 160 pairs of boxed end links at the distribution warehouse. They found all passenger end links were actually the driver's side links!

I hope some heads rolled over this. What I can tell you now is, if you order these parts today, you can be almost 100% sure that you will receive the correct parts in the boxes.

The replacement passenger side end link was air shipped to my dealer from back east, and it was installed 2 days after the fiasco was discovered in the warehouse.

Parts and labor for this install was about $200. I think I got a break on the labor thanks to the screw ups.

I recommend this upgrade. The ZL1 sway bar is a solid piece; while the V6 bar was hollow, and much skinnier. The car corners like it is on rails now. Totally different and unbelievable!
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