|02-28-2016, 02:05 PM||#1|
Hesster's 2010 SS "Street Monster" Build Thread
Bought my car a few years ago and was soon bitten with Mod fever as I have done with my other cars in my "Garage and Album". The build is intended to be a really serious street car.
Phase I was SP Ceramic Coated Headers, Borla Cat Back w/o Cats, CAI Air Box, RAM Clutch adjuster and Reservoir, Interior Dress Up, and a tune from PhasTec. These mods REALLY made the car come alive, and sound killer. The Borla Atak is a LOUD system and not for everybody, but this is not a daily driver.
Phase II was a Whipple and a Cam good for 632 RWHP and 565 Ft Lb TQ on the Dyno. Having over 500 Ft Lb of torque from 3000 RPM to the Redline makes for some scary power and now the car is just brutally LOUD! And I thought my other cars were loud. Gotta put on some resonators or something in the exhaust as it sounds wicked, but the neighbors and COPS won't appreciate it.
Starting on Phase III with some extensive Mods.
I have been accumulating a boat load of parts this winter and starting in on the flog even though it is still cold here. Did a whole lot of research to select parts and best prices. At some point, the Mods cost more than I paid for the car - so what, it will be killer when I finish. Garage is heated enough to make it tolerable. Will Document as I go with Pics.
First was the Plasma After Burners. They look great, and I created a thread on how I did the install. Not a easy mod, but worth it.
Next is extensive Suspension Upgrades to handle the power. I went with all BMR stuff, and BC ER Coilovers:
Bought a Quick Jack so I don't get a "Leather Back" from crawling under the Car. Time to tear it all down:
Then after the Suspension Stuff, a whole lotta other stuff. Some of it has to wait until I can throw Paint on the Parts.
Last edited by hesster; 03-01-2016 at 01:57 PM. Reason: CONTINUATION
|03-01-2016, 01:58 PM||#3|
Total Suspension Disassembly - Front of the vehicle
Want to totally tear down your suspension to install performance Sways and Bushings? Here is some great detail how to do it, and you can use this as a check list. You may want to take some Pics as you go as I have to remember things like bolt orientation.
FIRST – ensure you have the correct tools. I suggest long handle METRIC wrenchs, and both Deep and Shallow impact sockets. Offset wrenchs are also a benefit for access. Also a set of Torx Bits, a spring compressor, and trim fastener removal tools. An impact wrench and power tools are a plus to reduce time. However, you can get away with less. You will need 10, 15, 18, 21 and 24 mm sizes at a minimum.
ON TO DISASSEMBLY
O Loosen all wheel nuts.
O Jack up the car and support securely. Pick jack stand points in the underbody that allow access to all fasteners and connections. I suggest the flat reinforced underbody areas, and use a wood block or similar on both sides, front and rear. You will be cranking on some bolts that have over 100ft lbs torque, so make sure the car is secure.
O Remove the Wheels/Tires.
O Remove the upper then the lower Sway Bar end link using a 15mm socket or wrench. If the stock stud turns (it will), hold the stud with a 10mm wrench over the 15mm wrench. Remove the SB Link.
O There is an ABS Line that goes to the wheel and it's held in with a Rubber Grommet that is simply pushed into a tab. Pull it out so that it's clear from the work. Then remove the sensor from the hub with a 10 mm socket, and route it out of the way.
O On the opposite side of the Strut Assembly, there is a Brake Line that is held in by a 10mm bolt. Remove and clear.
O Remove the (2) 18mm Caliper bolts with a socket, and remove and tie off Caliper
O Remove the (3) dust shield bolts with a 10mm socket and or wrench and remove the shield.
O Two 24mm Bolts on the bottom of the Strut and the single 24mm clinch nut on the Top of the Strut under the hood hold the entire Strut Assembly to the car at this point.
O Remove the (2) 24mm bolts and nuts from the Lower Strut Assembly. These are a little tough so you might need to put a little more effort into it than normal. Use (2) large 24 mm wrenchs, or a deep 24mm socket and 24 mm wrench. Remove the TOP Bolt and Nut 1st, and then loosen the bottom nut. Tie up the hub to the inner wheel well so it does not flop around. Then remove the bottom nut and bolt.
O Lift the hood, unscrew the small black Strut cover cap and a 24mm nut is revealed. A T50 torx bit is inserted in the shock rod so it does not rotate, and use a 24 mm box or offset box wrench to get at the nut. All the weight of the Strut Assembly is being held by this so making sure that you have a hand on it when taking it off.
O To disassemble the strut to get the parts needed for the coilovers, use a spring compressor as the spring is under tension! Compress the spring and remove the 24mm nut holding the spring to the strut. You will need to reuse the nut, OEM washer, and OEM rubber top mount and ring for the coilovers, or maybe lowering springs.
O Remove the Front Radius Rod outer ball joint nut with a 21mm socket or wrench. It should not rotate. Do the same for the Frt LCA ball joint 21mm Nut.
O Remove the Tie Rod Ball Joint Nut with a 18mm socket. Hit the end with a hammer to pop it out. Try not to bugger up the 10mm Hex end, but you can file the buggers flat later.
O Remove the Wheel Well Liner, which is necessary to rotate the Washer Bottle enough to get the Frt Radius Rod Bolt out. Remove the 5 screws a T20 Torx, and 5 Retainers with a trim tool. Pull Liner out.
O On the Washer Bottle, remove the lower LH and RH bolt with a 13mm socket. Then loosen the Top LH bolt enough to rotate the wash bottle clockwise. Good time to pull it out if you want to use a remote reservoir and Intake Scoop.
O Remove the Front Radius Rod Inner Mounting Bolt and Nut from the frame rail using a 21mm socket and wrench.
O Remove the Frt LCA Inner Mounting bolt from the frame rail using a 21mm socket and wrench.
O Pull out the Hub with the FRR and LCA attached by the ball joints, and knock out the ball joints with a brass hammer. Repeat On the Passenger Side, and next is Sway Bar removal and Power Steering Bushing Mount.
Last edited by hesster; 03-18-2016 at 07:56 AM.
|03-03-2016, 01:43 PM||#4|
Both Sides of Front Suspension now Disassembled. One of the damn Ball Joints would not pop out of the Hub, and used a torch to finally bang it out.
Then disassembled Front Struts to get parts needed for the Coil Overs. Dug out my old spring compressors for safety. Used a T50 Torx bit and ground flats on a old socket to remove the 24MM nut. (imagine you can use a Impact but don't want to rotate the shock rod).
Pressed out the Bushings on the FLCA and Radius Rod - this was a little hairy. I scrounged around in my endless junk parts and found a bearing race to use on the big Radius Rod bushing, and chucked it into my 12 Ton HF Press. Whatever used must match the OD of the Bearing Sleeve or it won't work, and it has to be parallel in the press since the Sleeve is so Thin. Got one out clean, the other did not go so well and I pressed out the inner first and used a Sawz all to just cut the sleeve enough to chisel it out.
The Radius Rod bushings came out clean with a 1-1/8" Impact Socket.
Let's just say they are in there tight, and even with a press you gotta crank it before it cracks free and push's out.
Next is the Sway Bar Removal and P/S Rack Bushing R&R.
o Power Steering Rack Bushing – this is easy, remove the (2) 15mm bolts on the Passenger Side Saddle, pry it and the bushing off the Rack.
Front Sway Bar – this is a challenge, but not impossible to fish it out the Passenger Side. Now note that it is recommended that you remove the Engine Mount bolts and jack up the engine a few inches, BUT THIS IS IMPOSSIBLE WITH A WHIPPLE since there is only ~1/2” of clearance to the Dash. I found it actually can be fished out IF everything is already removed except the Tie Rod, as is my case with a total disassembly. Remove the (2) 13mm Saddle Nuts on both sides, pry off the saddles and old bushings first. Then articulate the Bar around the Power Steering Lines and once clear it is fished out the Passenger Side.
Last edited by hesster; 03-07-2016 at 09:29 AM.
|03-10-2016, 03:18 PM||#6|
On to the Rear Tear down. Not alot of Pics, cause they are all over the Forum already, but I threw in some KEY 1's cause some of this stuff ain't easy.
Suspension Disassembly - Rear of the vehicle
First of all, if you have a stock exhaust, it has to be dropped and removed for access to some bolts, and this is mandatory for some of the UCA Bolts. I have a Borla Atak, so access was OK and I did NOT have to drop the entire cradle or disconnect the Driveshaft Flex Joint to remove everything, including the Cradle Bushings. I did have to disconnect the Exhaust at the rear hangers so the Diff and Cradle can drop independent of the exhaust.
o Remove the 4 Cross Tunnel Brace 15mm Bolts.
o Remove 10mm Brake Line Bolt from the UCA.
o To remove Stock Exhaust if you have one, loosen the exhaust front clamps with a 15mm socket or wrench, slide the Muffler mounts off the clamps at the front, then the rears off the mounting dowels and pull the exhaust out.
o Remove 18mm Caliper Bolts, and tie caliper out of the way.
o Ensure Park Brake is off. Remove Rotor T30 Torx Bolt, and pound off Rotor.
o If you are going to install better Axles, now is the Time to remove the 32mm Axle Shaft Nut at the Spindle/Hub. It is on there with 199FtLbs of Torque, and should not be reused. Use a breaker bar, or a Big-Ass Impact or Torque Wrench rated at 250 Ft Lb.
o Remove (2) ABS Sensor Line Retaining Clips from the Toe Rod.
o SWAY BAR LINK & BAR - Remove the Sway Bar End Link 15 mm nut from the Sway Bar end using a 15mm wrench and 5mm Allen wrench in the stud end. Pull the stud out from the arm and move it away. Don’t bother with the link connected to the LCA if you are installing a new Sway Bar and a new LCA. Remove the (2) 13mm Sway Bar Saddle Bolts from the Cradle. Repeat on the other side and remove the Sway Bar.
o TOE ROD - Remove the 18mm Toe Rod Bolt at the Hub/Spindle. Mark the Inner Bolt and Cam position on the LCA before removal, then remove the Toe Rod 21mm Inner Nut. The Driver’s side bolt cannot be extracted on the Driver’s side unless you lower the front of the Cradle. Place a Hydraulic Jack under the Differential, and position a pair of Jack Stands to support the Cradle at the front bolts. Remove the Front Cradle Bolts with a 24mm socket. Slowly lower the jack at the Differential and let the front Cradle tilt down at least 1” or more and remove the Toe Rod Inner Bolt and Toe Rod.
o TRAILING ARM - Remove the Trailing Arm Outer 18mm Nut and Bolt. Remove the Inner 18mm Bolt and Trailing Arm. The nut is welded to the cradle.
o Tie up the Axle to the Frame so it does not flop down.
o LOWER CONTROL ARM - Remove the 18mm LCA Bolt and Nut at the Hub/Spindle. But - Caution, there is some pressure from the spring, but not much. I suggest you use a spring compressor to be safe. Remove the 21mm Lower Control Arm Bolt that holds in the bottom of the Strut Assembly using a 21mm Socket and the 21mm wrench. Mark the Camber position on the Inner’s Bolt/Washer/Frame, then remove the LCA 21mm inner Bolt and Nut, and remove the LCA .
o STRUT - Remove the (4) 15mm Strut Bolts at the Frame and remove strut.
o UPPER CONTROL ARM – this CAN be removed w/o dropping the rear of the cradle, as well as the UCA Rear Saddle Bracket! But, if you are going to replace or upgrade the Cradle Bushings, the rear of the Cradle must also be dropped, and it will make access to the UCA Rear Saddle Bolts much easier. This also CAN be done without dropping the NON STOCK Exhaust AND Drive Shaft at the Flange IF you have clearance of the Differential to the Exhaust Pipes. First remove or lower the Exhaust Tunnel Shield so the Driveshaft does not smack it while lowering the Cradle. Also pry out the Emergency Brake Cable from the Cradle Bracket, and then remove it from the Spindle/Hub. Remove the UCA 21mm Inner front Bolt and Nut. Then remove the UCA 18 mm Outer Bolt and Nut at the Spindle/Hub. Lastly, you can remove the 21mm Bushing Bolt and the UCA will slide right out, and it makes access to the Bushing Saddle Bolts easier, but the bolt is tough to get access to. Finally remove the (2) 18mm Rear Bushing Saddle Bolts and remove the Saddle Assembly, or if the Cradle is dropped, remove these first, pull out the UCA, and then remove the Bushing Bolt.
o DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL – remove the Spindle/Hub if you have not already. Carefully pry out the Axle Shaft using a small pry bar, and be careful not to damage the seal!
o REPEAT ALL OF THIS ON THE OTHER SIDE.
REAR CRADLE SUB FRAME BUSHINGS - these can be removed using the 1” Socket and Torch method. Put a hydraulic jack under the Diff. I also used (4) Jack Stands for safety. Remove one 24mm Sub-Frame bolt, screw it back in 1/2" and repeat on the remaining three. Remove two sub-frame bolts on either the driver or passenger side. Lower the jack under the differential just enough to place a 1" socket in between the top of the sub-frame bush ferule. Use the second floor jack to lift the corner of the sub-frame with the socket. Add pressure once you are sure the socket is secure between the top of the bushing ferule and the 'frame' rail. Start with the Left Front. When you start to lift the car off the jack stand or Hoist/QuickJack, heat the metal that surrounds the sub-frame bushing. Keep heating until the bushing falls on the floor. Repeat on the Left Rear, you have to heat the hell out of it as it is a larger bushing. Clean the inside of the Bushing Housings in the Frame with a drill and wire wheel. Pop off the Bottom Bushing Metal Caps with a Pry Bar or Socket and extension. Install your new Bushings, I made a tool, ref the pics. Install the Top Bushings first, then the Bottom's, then the Steel Inserts. I flipped the tool around as necessary and did this in steps. Note – it is very unlikely that you can use the Vehicle’s weight or Cradle Bolts to seat the Rear Bushings, (too tight a fit) and it will strip the Bolts. Use the lube supplied with the Bushings! Screw in the Cradle Bolts at least ½”. Repeat on the other side. Carefully cinch the Cradle up ensuring the Rear Dowel’s are aligned and the Cradle is seated, and Torque the (4) 24mm Bolts to 130 Ft Lbs. These are TTY, you should buy new!
These are the UCA Bushing Saddle Bolts - tough to get to!
Last edited by hesster; 03-23-2016 at 10:45 AM.
|03-15-2016, 12:06 PM||#9|
Front Suspension Assembly
This is basically the reverse of the disassembly, but different in certain areas with the new parts.
Front Sway Bar – the BMR SB016 is a bigger dog than stock and a challenge to install with the 3 hole flange on the ends, but not impossible to fish back into the Passenger Side and out the Driver Side. Again, I cannot jack up my engine with a Whipple which would have made it much easier. You just keep twisting it around until it clears the Power Steering Lines, and I did “bend” the one in the Pic up ever so slightly for clearance, and then bent it back down w/o damage. The Saddle bushings get lubed up, slap on the Saddle over it, and install it over the 15 mm Studs OUTSIDE OF THE FLANGE ON THE BAR. Put on the Washers, reuse the 15mm Nuts with some Blue LT, and center the Saddle Bracket cause the slots give a good deal of fore/aft and a little side to side play. I found using a stubby ½ drive ratchet with a flex head and 15mm socket helped get the initial torque, and then used a torque wrench to tighten the (2) 15mm Saddle Nuts on both sides to 13 ft lbs. Pump some grease into the fittings, and move the Bar around to ensure it does not bind. Nice looking bar!
Last edited by hesster; 03-23-2016 at 10:48 AM.
|03-15-2016, 07:49 PM||#10|
Drives: Aqua Blue Metallic 2010 Camaro 1ss
Join Date: Jul 2010
Looks like a lot of new parts going in. You have to continue the pictures though. Good stuff.
SLP TVS 2300, JBA Headers and Flow Master Exhaust, 416 Build, Hotchkis front and rear sway bars, Hotchkis tower brace, ATI 10 rib Pulley set up, Super tensioner, Rear Cog, Pedders XA coil overs, DSS V2 9inch rear with Strange third member, Aly Meth kit, 10" multi disc stall converter, and Squash Fuel System, Ortiz Custom Dash Guage Pod, Hurst Shifter, Oracle Halo Rings, fog and Demon eye lights, ZL1 body kit with MPD-1 Hood to name a few mods. 749.51rwhp 709.73 tq
|03-16-2016, 02:31 PM||#11|
Front LCA Front - Bushing (the Arm with the Large Bushing) – this is easily assembled into the arm, and a vice or hammer can be used. It is a (3) piece bushing with a different center bushing durometer, press or hammer the center in first, then the outers, then the inner sleeve. Stuff it into the Sub Frame – it is a real tight fit, and I used a screwdriver to align the holes to the frame. Loose install the bolt and nut for now, do not tighten yet, as the bushing will need to be “Timed”. This is a TTY Bolt, and ideally should be replaced.
Front Radius Rod (Front Lower Control Arm Rear) - Bushing (The Arm with the smaller Bushing) – this one IS NOT EASY. I again used a homemade threaded rod and washer tool, and a hose clamp. The pics tell the story on how I did it. I will leave out the all the pronouns and adjectives, as well as references to mother that came out of my mouth. The machined side of the bushing must face the front of the vehicle, and it is the side w/o the letters on it. Once you get the smaller lip to pop into the Arm it is easy to press the rest in, then the inner sleeve. When done, stuff it into the Sub Frame and loose install the bolt and nut. Also a TTY Bolt.
Initial Front Mock-Up – I am waiting on TTY Bolts and the Moreno Camber Plates so I wanted to at least do some rough mock-up. So I installed the LCA’s Ball Joints into the Hub, and then the Steering Tie Rod Ball Joint. Took the BC ER Coil over Shock and loose mounted the stock hat for now, and mounted onto the Hub/Spindle. Then I loose installed the Sway Bar End Link. Next I will repaint my Calipers while I am waiting for the bolts and Camber Plates. Caliper Bolts are TTY.
|03-17-2016, 03:06 PM||#12|
Fascia Removal, Air Scoop, and Remote Washer Bottle Install - Pulled the Fascia and Headlamps off as I will install Dual Color Halo's at some point. Wanted to knock this install off before finishing up Front Suspension, it's pretty straight forward and easier with the level of disassembly I have. Got a clean cut on the Shroud using tin snips. Elected to mount the Filler Bottle to the outside of the CAI, and run the fill hose through the CAI so I don't have to take off the Glass Top. This is a clean installation, and will definitely increase some air flow to the hungry Blower.
|03-18-2016, 03:30 PM||#13|
Got my TTY Suspension Bolts, but short (3) for the Rear. Damn, at least I can start on the Front. Won't get into the debate on replacing TTY Bolts, but it is a small cost of my total Suspension Upgrades, and peace of mind. Sorted out where everything went, and added some pics of the difference in the Rear Toe Rod, LCA, and Trailing Arms. And if you wonder why you may have wheel hop, jut look at the difference of the Rear UCA Stock Bushing versus the BMR Delrin one!